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geekhack Community => Keyboards => Topic started by: vatin on Sun, 13 November 2022, 22:15:24
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I build myself a Corne keyboard with hotswap support as per the build instruction.
But one switch produce unreliable keypresses. Sometimes it act normally, sometimes I need to mash real hard for it to produce a key, sometimes it register double keypresses either from mashing or even light touch.
If I replace with new keyswitch, that switch will be dead for a day or two. I need to disconnect and leave it, then it will come back but works unreliable still.
What is causing this. I'm getting so tired. I want stuff to work. I don't want typos..... This is not a cheap 2 dollars keyboard. This is ergo split keyboard that suppose to save my career. Not causing more frustration.
[Update] I tried reflow and add some more soldier to the problematic hot swap socket. It worked fine for a while. And now it's dead. No amount of mashing will produce a keypress. And I don't want to replace the hot swap socket since I don't know how to desolder. And even if I do, it is a risk overheating and melting the solder pad altogether. The only place this keyboard belongs is the trash.
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Sounds like this to me:
https://docs.cannonkeys.com/troubleshooting/#cause-3-the-leafleaves-within-the-hotswap-socket-are-not-making-proper-contact-with-the-switch-within-the-socket
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Sometimes when I mashed the affected button, it produces not double, but 3 characters in a row. Let's see if I could make it 4 or more. Let's set some record with this baby, so every working day is a challenge. I also need to put some kind of meter under it to measure the force required to make it register.
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It sounds like the the switch isn't making a complete circuit so from my experience it could be a loose Hotswap pin.
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[Update] I tried reflow and add some more soldier to the problematic hot swap socket. It worked fine for a while. And now it's dead. No amount of mashing will produce a keypress. And I don't want to replace the hot swap socket since I don't know how to desolder. And even if I do, it is a risk overheating and melting the solder pad altogether. The only place this keyboard belongs is the trash.
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Is this board using a daughter board for the controller, I.E. a Pro micro that snaps in or soldered in?
You may be looking at the wrong end of the path, every time you fiddle with it it re-seats and you think it's a switch that's the problem.
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I've had the same issue with my Corne INB4. Try re-flowing the solder on the diode, and if that doesn't work, just replace it.
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I tried reflow and even add more soldier and that doesn't work so I just trashed the entire board. I don't know how to desolder cause it looked already messed up. I just ordered the painter keyboard (Diodeless Corne).
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I often skip lines because the keys on my keyboard are too close together, and it's very annoying.
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Probably more of a firmware issue. Also what daughterboard did you use?