Hope they warned you about us. And it's easier to just bookmark 4chan instead of typing it out.
Here's my layout.Show Image(http://oi35.tinypic.com/2ai26hl.jpg)
Hope they warned you about us. And it's easier to just bookmark 4chan instead of typing it out.
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I hope you're comfortable with a soldering iron. Medium power (like 25..30 W) with not-too-large tip should do, soldering station is better of course. Then you'll need the usual stuff, solder of course, maybe some desoldering braid too.
Repair would involve the following steps:
1. Open up board so you can access the soldering side of the PCB. (Not sure whether anyone has bothered to write down instructions for this yet.)
2. Inspect solder joints on affected switch and nearby areas closely. They may be cracked.
3. Renew soldering joints with some fresh solder. If your solder is the conventional type with lead, I'd remove the old stuff first. (I think we have a soldering tutorial in the wiki, too.)
4. If that doesn't help, look up the part number for a Cherry black switch for plate mounting (it's in the Cherry switch wiki). Not sure whether the 6Gv2 has ones with wire bridge or without, should be easy to tell when looking at the board though. Either order one, or maybe someone around here has a few spare blacks.
Probably a cold solder joint. I've never seen a Steelseries popped open so if you get a chance please take a pic. Everybody likes to say all Costar keyboards are the same around here.
Im assuming that in order to open it i just need to undo the screws on the back?
Ive used one a few times like 5 years ago back in high school, ill probably give it a shot, however since the key responds to me pushing it in a specific direction, does soldering sound like it would be an effective solution to the problem? My understanding of soldering was that it was used for fixing circuts and wires.