geekhack
geekhack Community => Other Geeky Stuff => Topic started by: Voixdelion on Tue, 02 November 2010, 18:15:44
-
So after it took me an eons of comparing tests and reviews and prices to decide on OCZ Freeze as the bomb-diggedy thermal interface compound for me due to the following:
1 has no cure time
2 is electrically neutral & non capacitive (in case of "oops")
3 easy to apply (less chance of "oops")
4 high performance on par with expensive stuff without being as expensive
But now OCZ are leaving the market for such products they are taking their patented secret formula with them, discontinued everywhere*. =(
This means I need an alternative choice and I really don't feel like going through all the info again, so I thought I'd ask if anybody knows about how these would do in place of my now extinct favorite -and/or how long a shelf life/usage life is for these options:
Artic MX-4
Tuniq TX-3
TIM Consultants TC-0098/Matrix (or the Quantum?)
Gelid- GC Extreme (pricey!)
(*) edit: still a few left in stock at the Ocz gear page for EOL stuff, but the shipping calculator will add the same amount for every additional unit - I called cust.serv and they are saying it is an error in the calculator and orders are corrected to proper combined shipping before being charged - Get it while you can if you want it...
-
I used Noctua's NT-H1 (http://noctua.at/main.php?show=productview&products_id=13&lng=en) because I got it with one of their coolers. It might violate requirement #4 though.
-
When my big tube of AS-5 ran out, I switched to MX-2 and MX-3 (depending on application), and will be buying MX-4 when my current tube of MX-3 runs out. MX-2/3/4 meet your criteria.
-
I have three words. Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra. Technically four but that's the name.
-
Arctic MX-3. MX-4 is very slightly more efficient, for a significantly higher price.
-
Doesn't answer your question, but this is interesting...
Pay special attention to the 'spread' method.
-
Shin etsu...
It's like having 1000 samurai swinging fans on your heat spreader.
-
80-way thermal compound review (http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=150&Itemid=62)
Bit old but should be mostly relevant. I do recall a more recent one but it might have been a re-post or I mistook it for a 2010 article.
-
I like this paste roundup (http://www.hardocp.com/article/2009/04/07/thermal_paste_shootout_q209/) because it includes cheeeeeeese.
-
shin etsu, so good, so annoying i use my fiancee's blow dryer on it for like minutes to get it to work normal, still have a syringe left so when that runs out i'm going for easy to apply again, something like mx4/tx3.
-
Doesn't answer your question, but this is interesting...
Pay special attention to the 'spread' method.
A girl builder? The cross method looks pretty effective. It was interesting that the spread method that I usually use creates air bubbles....
-
Note that each TIM will have its own 'best' method for spreading. Follow the manufacturer's recommendations, not youtube videos :)
Nowdays I tend to avoid pastes with curing times as there is no need for it. You can get an equally performing paste with no curing time as there are so many competing, very good, products now.
Do take a look at the Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra one (or Liquid Pro, the previous one), I have been very impressed.
-
A girl builder? The cross method looks pretty effective. It was interesting that the spread method that I usually use creates air bubbles....
You still spread? That method was ONLY for bare cores because of the trapping air issue. If the heatsink I'm using has a traditional flat base, I use a pea's worth of paste and get great coverage every time. If the heatsink has exposed heatpipes ("direct touch") then I fill the gaps with paste, wipe the excess, and do a couple lines of paste on the heatspreader coinciding with the orientation of the heatpipes. You don't need to cover the entire heatspreader, the core(s) underneath aren't very big, but if you can get a circle that touches all 4 sides then you're solid.
-
http://www.compusa.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=3522883&SRCCODE=LSCMPUSA&cm_mmc_o=-ddCjC1bELltzywCjC-d2CjCdwwp&AffiliateID=SyIrj13jmG8-QUWMRm6wLb4vDb_5XdrvuA
???
-
I just use Shin Etsu. No cure time, non-conductive, non-capacitive, fairly easy to apply, top 10% performance-wise, and fairly cheap.
-
Note that each TIM will have its own 'best' method
Do take a look at the Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra one (or Liquid Pro, the previous one), I have been very impressed.
The spreading method creates air pockets because some air are trapped by the TIM, not allowing it to disperse from the outer edge.
Since some TIM have a higher viscosity, it had been advised to warm-up the tube in a mug of hot water before applying.
Have you also been very impressed when you tried to remove this TIM ?
Your heat-sink is obviously not made from aluminium.
I personally have not been very impressed but then I may be totally wrong.
-
If you want a nice, cool computer, I would highly recommend Windows 98. Windows 98 is renowned for freezing, so it would be perfect for cooling down any CPU!
-
Artic sliver Ceramique, its non conductive i use it on my videocards and northbridge\southbridge...
-
I just use Shin Etsu. No cure time, non-conductive, non-capacitive, fairly easy to apply, top 10% performance-wise, and fairly cheap.
heard this is also good too..
-
I thought that the MX-4 was positioned to be less expensive than the MX-3, though? Not so in practice? The shin-etsu is good, but for the volume you get for the cost its a little on the high side, and I like a little leeway for screwing up, so that was why it hadn't made my short list.
And lapping the CPU isn't so nuts - I managed it, but it had the integrated heatspreader, not an exposed chip. I lapped my HS and my Northie CPU (but not the Pressie since I won't have any way to tell them apart otherwise) and it really made a huge difference in the way it "gripped". It was actually pretty difficult to break the surface tension between the cpu and HS when I had to remove it again when I switched out the power supply and I could see that the coverage was impeccable on both sides. I also set the tube in warm water first before applying which seems to make it more cooperative too.
Re that Compusa link - huh... I just googled it again and all the links that were sold out previously appear to have found a resupply stock - tigerdirect and zipzoomfly anyway. I must've hit a weird pocket in my timing before , though there was at least one store that did say they wouldn't be getting any more in at all. i managed to snag a tube off the OCZ gear site which should do fine for a while even including the pre-ylod PS3 I might be able to save. Still, it is definitely not being made anymore (confirmed through conversation with customer service re:shipping costs) as its officially discontinued. Maybe by the time I run out there will be some new breakthrough thing anyway.