geekhack
geekhack Community => Keyboards => Topic started by: turbocharged on Mon, 22 November 2010, 20:09:04
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http://www.overclock.net/other-components/871713-us48-3-ibm-model-ms.html
#2 on his list...1989 gray label, slightly dirty, all key present and intact, untested for $20 shipped. Figured untested for $3 less was better than tested and not working. Even if it is bad I might be able to fix it anyway.
I have it lined up already, just have to send payment. It was $17 shipped, but he upped it to $20 shipped because shipping was more than he expected. My question, is it worth the risk at $20 shipped?
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http://www.overclock.net/other-components/871713-us48-3-ibm-model-ms.html
#2 on his list...1989 gray label, slightly dirty, all key present and intact, untested for $20 shipped. Figured untested for $3 less was better than tested and not working. Even if it is bad I might be able to fix it anyway.
I have it lined up already, just have to send payment. It was $17 shipped, but he upped it to $20 shipped because shipping was more than he expected. My question, is it worth the risk at $20 shipped?
Just strikes me as funny when people don't "test" these things..how hard is it?
Its 50/50 chance my friend! I wouldn't but thats just me.
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He tested the first one and was unable to test the other two. OK...
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Hahaha - he tested the first and got discouraged.
And it's quite a bit more complicated than opening up and wiping down a PCB.
Yeah, I was a bit curious about how he tested 1 but not the other 2...and why not just use a PS/2 to USB adapter on his laptop that doesn't have a PS/2 port?
Also, I'm not new to electronics and wiring (I was planning on picking this up to do some dyeing and a USB mod)...kinda hoping if it doesn't work, it is just a bad capacitor or something....just trying to get lucky I guess.
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Could just buy it then grab another working model m. I would buy if I already had one simply for the keys to dye ^^.
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#1 killer of Model M keyboards are liquid spills requiring a complete nut/bolt mod.
Nut/bolt mod?....I did a quick search...you mean drilling out plastic rivets and replacing them with nuts and bolts?
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That's the post I found...the mod isn't a big deal to me (have an entire machine shop at my disposal), but why is this required for a liquid spill? Just to clean up the residue from the liquid?
I would have thought a liquid spill would have fried things? No?
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In a keyboard you can toss in the dishwasher? I'm pretty sure at most, it's gummed up. From what I recall of the internals, it's quite difficult for liquid to get to the electronics it could potentially short. But not hard to congeal into a nasty mess under the springs.
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Ok other than my question about why a nut/bolt mod would fix the keyboard....my last question is...if all else fails, what are the key caps worth?
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That's the post I found...the mod isn't a big deal to me (have an entire machine shop at my disposal), but why is this required for a liquid spill? Just to clean up the residue from the liquid?
I would have thought a liquid spill would have fried things? No?
you have to sand the plastic rivets off the metal backplate to access the inner membrane and clean it , hence you need something to replace those plastic rivets that were holding it together
BTW i would go for the $23 one , it's only 5 bucks more and u get all the keycaps and a guarantee that it works
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you have to sand the plastic rivets off the metal backplate to access the inner membrane and clean it , hence you need something to replace those plastic rivets that were holding it together
BTW i would go for the $23 one , it's only 5 bucks more and u get all the keycaps and a guarantee that it works
Both the $20 and $23 one have all the keycaps, but the $20 one is completely untested and the $23 one is tested to power on, but doesn't work beyond that.
I am going to get one of them...which one would you all pick?
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Throw in a dishwasher? Last time a guy here threw a Model M in a dishwasher it didn't end well.
That was me and, no, it didn't...
:rip:
:Cry:
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Any last thoughts before I send payment?