Show Image(http://drh2.img.digitalriver.com/DRHM/Storefront/Company/razerusa/images/product/detail/razer-deathadder-black-edition-main.jpg)
A sleek all-black finish and added rubber side grips for enhanced handling, the Black Edition is a tribute to a legacy of ownage, a celebration for 5 years of every gamer’s victory thanks to their trusty DeathAdder.
The Razer DeathAdder™ is the weapon of choice for gamers seeking a combination of comfort and unbridled gaming precision. Enjoy extended gaming sessions in comfort with its right-handed ergonomic form factor crafted for the world of competitive gaming; and when the difference between victory and defeat is determined between heartbeats, the 3500dpi Razer Precision™ 3.5G infrared sensor translates your every movement into frags with pinpoint accuracy.
I already ordered one. A deathadder with non-slippery sides would be the perfect mouse for me. If you do decide to pick one up here are a couple of coupons and they do stack so you can use them both.QuoteCoupon codes:
RZRFRSH1PUS - Free Shipping
RZH1GHF1V3 - $5 Off
and added rubber side grips for enhanced handling
Coupon codes:
RZRFRSH1PUS - Free Shipping
RZH1GHF1V3 - $5 Off
Show Image(http://drh2.img.digitalriver.com/DRHM/Storefront/Company/razerusa/images/product/detail/razer-deathadder-black-edition-main.jpg)
"Black Edition"? I don't buy computer mice from racists! Time to sue!You're right, AC/DC should sue!
Show Image(http://drh2.img.digitalriver.com/DRHM/Storefront/Company/razerusa/images/product/detail/razer-deathadder-black-edition-main.jpg)
"Black Edition"? I don't buy computer mice from racists! Time to sue!
I already ordered one. A deathadder with non-slippery sides would be the perfect mouse for me. If you do decide to pick one up here are a couple of coupons and they do stack so you can use them both.Awesome dude thanks!
After working for a store that sells Razer, I've gotta say I won't be buying one. We have a noticeably higher failure rate with Razer, as opposed to Logitech or Microsoft, maybe twice to three times as often.
My experience has been quite the contrary, I've owned four Razer mice: a krait bought in 2006, which is still going strong as of today.
a diamondback bought in 2007, died last year, but it was a seller refurbished item which I got for $15.
got a deathadder in 2009, and an abyssus last year, both of them working just fine.
I've got a deathadder. There's just something about the shape that's not quite right. So I went back to my older Habu. Whatever is wrong with the deathadder's shape is not present in the Habu, although they've got very similar ergonomics. The Habu looks better anyway :P
i kinda wish logitech made a deathadder with a 5700 dpi laser, i like the shape but not the brand and i am used to the higher sensitivity :P
that'll be the G500.
Yeah, its just an observation based on the returns I see at work... I should dig up some actual fail rates from our system if I can.
Those would be great info if you have access to them :)
Razer's CS is crap though, all they sent me was a freakin' RMA number that I need to include in my return of my defective product, they didn't even provide me a shipping label. wtf.
I just got my mouse today and so far I'm not really sure that the grip is any better on this mouse than the original design.
I've done quite a few rmas and only once or twice have I had the manufacturer pay for shipping and even then it's usually after a screw up. If you think that razer is bad don't ever buy a steelseries product. The past two products that I have bought from them have been a nightmare.
I'm on a SS mouse as we speak.. hopefully it doesn't go wrong in the future.
Last time Logitech just sent me a replacement straight up when my wireless mouse started double clicking, didn't even bother with the return, that's what I call a good warranty.
I had started out planning to get a Steelseries Xai (or possibly Ikari) but they both have acceleration due to the sensor used.
In the end, it seemed that if you want a mouse with good performance, it must be an optical mouse, and of the optical mice that don't have any tracking issues (surface problems, positive/negative acceleration, prediction, ability to cope with high speeds etc.)
Hi GeekHack. I was thinking of getting this mouse and I was hoping someone could offer their opinion for me :)I have never been a fan of "ergonomic" shaped mice, nor mice that require a palm grip compared to a finger grip. (Logitech etc.) I generally prefer mice to have an ambidextrous design and a low profile like the Razer Diamondback. I feel that the Deathadder is a good balance between the two. The mouse is relatively light, and glides effortlessly across my mouse pad, moving it around with more of a fingertip-style grip is no problem at all.
I have used the Microsoft Intellimouse Optical for over 10 years (http://www.microsoft.com/hardware/mouseandkeyboard/productdetails.aspx?pid=004), not to be confused with the Intellimouse Explorer (they have slightly different profiles I believe). I love everything about it (except for the bright red LED at the back). Lately though navigating around my 1920x1080 monitor has become a complete chore. I can't increase the Windows sensitivity any more without severely sacrificing precision (one more notch and the cursor only moves two pixels at a time). I want to add a second monitor and it might finally be time to upgrade to a higher sensitivity mouse.
The problem is I love the Intellimouse Optical form factor. I use the thumb and pinky buttons extensively, and I like how they are flush with the shell instead of popping out (compared to the DeathAdder). I like the texture on the scroll wheel and how the scrollwheel has discrete notches as you scroll it (some wheels scroll smoothly so it isn't intuitive when the wheel actuates). I like how the buttons take approximately the same amount of force no matter where you press them. I especially like that it doesn't use any gimmicky ergonomic tricks.
So with that in mind, I'm wondering if I could ever grow to like the DeathAdder as much as I like the Intellimouse. I use a hybrid palm/finger grip. I have smallish hands, so I tend to press the buttons farther back. I once used a Dell mouse that was a single plastic shell like the DeathAdder (compared to the separate buttons on the Intellimouse), and I couldn't even press the buttons without straining. The way my hand sat on the mouse caused my to click right at the fulcrum of the lever, and it was actually painful to use. The evenness of the Intellimouse buttons is something I don't think I could give up. Does the DeathAdder share this property?
I like to hold the mouse with my hand at an angle, pointing away from me. I place both my middle and ring finger on the right mouse button, and I usually mouse my middle finger to press both the middle button and the right button. As a result, my middle finger rests diagonally across the right button, and I press the right button as close to the scroll wheel as possible rather than in the center. When I look at the profile of the DeathAdder, the right mouse button has a depression meant to hold the finger in place, but I am worried that this won't be compatible with the way I hold the mouse.
Has anyone else here moved from the Intellimouse Optical to the DeathAdder? Opinions? Every other mouse I've tried hurts my hand after extended use, so I want to be very cautious before I make a purchase.
Same form, adjustable dpi. Get a habu.The Habu and Deathadder are virtually the same shape, except the Habu has separate buttons rather than a single piece top-shell.
i dont know why the deathadder is so heavy, i mean it doesn't have 10 side buttons and those fancy Logitech scroll wheels, right? The black edition is a great idea and all but I just can't live with its weight.
why are laser sensors so bad compared to optical? I thought that lasers were better.... at least for the most partThere are a number of reasons why laser is not a good choice.
according to steelseries, lasers are supposed to have better life-off distance:I've heard that their numbers are very optimistic at best, and only apply to certain surfaces. Still doesn't fix the acceleration built into the sensor that Steelseries use in their mice, or jitter which is inherent to all laser technology. I have heard a lot of complaints about Steelseries' drivers as well.
http://www.fragyou.net/2007/11/29/lift-distance-on-ikari-laser-and-ikari-optical/
Does the DeathAdder have the same acceleration issues you described?It is one of the very few mice that does not have any of the issues I described above. No acceleration built into the hardware, no negative acceleration when used at high speeds, can track at very high speeds and on most surfaces without issue. (jitter etc.)
(I actually don't mind the Windows acceleration curve [maybe I'm just used to it], but I tried a mouse once with hardware acceleration and it was awful.)
i dont think that the G500 has these issues but if it does what does it have? I have not noticed anything at least :P And i use the 5700DPi with standard settings on the OS and games so i am used to the super high sensitivity. Then again i dont play many shooters.I have to imagine that there is something wrong with your settings if you are using the mouse at 5700 CPI without it jumping all over the screen, lacking any kind of control.
There are a number of reasons why laser is not a good choice.
2. Earlier laser models at least, had quite a lot of prediction built into them. This is less of a problem with gaming-oriented laser mice but is still something to be wary of. That means the mouse will try to snap your movements to straight lines for example. Most people cannot draw a perfectly straight line with a mouse by hand but with a lot of mice it predicts that is what you are trying to do and straightens your movements. Especially when gaming, this can have you fighting your mouse for control when it tries to move in a perfectly straight line and you don't want it to.
3. High lift-off distance. Most laser mice have a very high lift-off distance. That means if you lift the mouse off the pad, it can still track as you lift it off and move it back to the centre of your pad, working against what you're trying to do. A lot of laser mice also jump position when you put them down as well.
5. ...
The more recent laser sensors max out at 5040 CPI (even though many interpolate this to 5700 DPI) and can be adjusted in 90 CPI steps. In the driver many then offer the "standard" 400, 800, 1600, 3200 DPI steps to choose from, none of which are true readings from the sensor and are all interpolated.
6. Acceleration problems with the sensors. Most laser mice now have 5–10% acceleration built into the hardware that no-one seems to have disabled. ..
I've heard that their numbers are very optimistic at best, and only apply to certain surfaces. Still doesn't fix the acceleration built into the sensor that Steelseries use in their mice, or jitter which is inherent to all laser technology. I have heard a lot of complaints about Steelseries' drivers as well.
... and in the same sentence they say how you can adjust prediction and jitter correction rather than advertising that their mouse doesn't have/need it.
Apparently the 3G 1800 DPI Optical sensors Razer have used in the past were better for lift-off distance though, if 1800 DPI is enough for you.
Without acceleration that gives you 0.33" (1920/5700=0.33…) for the range of movement that will cover your entire screen. No matter how hard you tried, it would be virtually impossible to move the mouse cursor a single pixel in a direction because it is so sensitive.
Both of these things sound pretty good, so why is acceleration bad? Because you lose 1:1 control.
Your mouse is no longer working at the CPI you set it to, and movements are unpredictable.
....
If you are playing a first-person game, it means there is no way to guarantee where your aim is going to be.
The sensor used in the G500 is the same as the Xai so it is 5040 CPI native, and can be adjusted in 90 CPI steps. That means when running it at 5700 CPI you are using interpolated data and do not have pixel-perfect precision.
If I remember correctly, the Logitech drivers only allow you to adjust in 100 DPI steps which means that 900, 1800, 2700, 3600 and 4500 DPI are the only true DPI steps available with that mouse and you should not use anything else. (if I am wrong, use any multiple of 90 up to 5040 that suits you if the drivers allow it)
That sensor does have positive acceleration built in, so you will not be able to get true 1:1 control, ....
That has nothing to do with laser or LED/Optical but with the manufacturer of the sensor.If pretty much all the gaming grade mice had it, then I think it was a fair generalisation to make.
Avago had it in its sensors and because pretty much ever gaming grade mouse had a Laser Sensor from Avago every mouse had it.
But that's also true for LED/Optical, the only (gaming grade) mice that didn't have an Avago Sensor were the MS WMO/IME/IMO, they were the only mice that didn't have angle snapping (prediction).
As a side note, technically Angle Snapping doesn't predict anything.Yes, I'm just using the commonly accepted term. It really bugs me when people talk about "input lag" with displays when technically it's actually "output lag" because the display's processing is delaying the image being displayed.
Not really true, most Laser Sensors didn't have a higher LOD than the usuall Optical one from Avago.I was never a fan of those mice—in fact when my last mouse died I was back using a WMO and hated it. It has to be polled at 250Hz or higher to track reasonably well (http://www.esreality.com/?a=longpost&id=1265679&page=4), and with it only being 400 CPI, I found it to be far too slow, and I because of this I would be moving the mouse quickly enough to go over the maximum speed it can track properly at all the time.
Again the IMO/WMO/IME are an exeption with their pretty low but honestly they never could really compete with Avago Sensor inmax. tracking performnace.
Optical Sensors have a higher realtion between performance and LOD:It was my understanding that the issue was not specifically the lift-off-distance, but that the problem is that laser mice have to calibrate the LOD to the surface that they are being used on which can result in tracking problems when the mouse is lifted.
Logitechs version of the Avago ADNS-9500 has a different SROM with true 100 CPI steps.I wasn't aware of that. My apologies for spreading misinformation.
Specific issue of the ADNS-9500, has nothing to do with Laser Sensors in general.But most current gaming laser mice are using the ADNS-9500 or a Philips Twin-Eye which is even worse.
Less correction isn't automatically better dependant on the surface and some people actually prefer to have angle snapping on.My point was that laser needs this jitter correction to function properly to track well. If your movements are being "corrected" in this manner, then the mouse may not always move as you intended.
Not saying that you really gain anything from such high CPI, especially in gaming situations but hitting a specific pixel on screen with high CPI isn't that hard.When you have no acceleration and the mouse is set up for 1:1 control, to move one pixel at 5700 CPI requires a movement of under 0.045mm. Perhaps on a high friction surface it is possible, but I struggle to have that level of control at 3500 CPI with my Deathadder when I'm really trying to only move it a single pixel in one direction, and certainly could not in a fast-paced gaming situation. It is generally accepted that in Quake—a very fast-paced game—if you are doing a 360° turn in less than three inches you're too quick to have the accuracy required for pro-level play.
Many people play with accel., Quake is a good example.All the pro-level FPS gameplay I have ever seen has been with huge mousepads, low sensitivity and no acceleration.
If pretty much all the gaming grade mice had it, then I think it was a fair generalisation to make.
I was never a fan of those mice—in fact when my last mouse died I was back using a WMO and hated it. It has to be polled at 250Hz or higher to track reasonably well (http://www.esreality.com/?a=longpost&id=1265679&page=4), and with it only being 400 CPI, I found it to be far too slow, and I because of this I would be moving the mouse quickly enough to go over the maximum speed it can track properly at all the time.
It was my understanding that the issue was not specifically the lift-off-distance, but that the problem is that laser mice have to calibrate the LOD to the surface that they are being used on which can result in tracking problems when the mouse is lifted.
I wasn't aware of that. My apologies for spreading misinformation.
But most current gaming laser mice are using the ADNS-9500 or a Philips Twin-Eye which is even worse.
My point was that laser needs this jitter correction to function properly to track well. If your movements are being "corrected" in this manner, then the mouse may not always move as you intended.
When you have no acceleration and the mouse is set up for 1:1 control, to move one pixel at 5700 CPI requires a movement of under 0.045mm. Perhaps on a high friction surface it is possible, but I struggle to have that level of control at 3500 CPI with my Deathadder when I'm really trying to only move it a single pixel in one direction, and certainly could not in a fast-paced gaming situation. It is generally accepted that in Quake—a very fast-paced game—if you are doing a 360° turn in less than three inches you're too quick to have the accuracy required for pro-level play.
All the pro-level FPS gameplay I have ever seen has been with huge mousepads, low sensitivity and no acceleration.
but I struggle to have that level of control at 3500 CPI with my Deathadder when I'm really trying to only move it a single pixel in one direction
Lower your sensitivity.What is the point of using a high DPI and low sensitivity?
Every single time DPI pops out people still use the same sensitivity as before. If I used 400DPI and 2.5 sensitivity with 800DPI I would need to lower it to 1.25 to achieve the same feel as before.
(Low DPI) x (Sensitivity for low DPI)] / High DPI = Sensitivity for high DPI
I know the formula is somewhat wrong and it has been debated a lot that while it is correct in giving you the sensitivity you want. It's too general and it doesn't mention the minimum DPI you need, you can still use low DPI if your sensitivity is low enough.
just wondering, does the Deathadder have angle snapping? If it does then can it at least be disabled?No angle snapping at all, and no option for it if you did want it.
@NKRO
He isn't talking about Windows Pointer Speed but about Ingame Sensitivity which works differently in a 3D Engine like a FPS.
There the sensitivity settings determine how much your avatar turn for one count from the mouse.
In that enviroment there is no pixel limitation, the only limitations is the sammlest angle your avatar can turn but this angle is usually negligible small, for example ~0,0055° (360/65536) in the Q3 engine.
@NKROIt's funny that you brought that up—I was going to say that in a 3D engine that works with direct input things probably work a little differently, but it's just easier to explain on the desktop.
He isn't talking about Windows Pointer Speed but about Ingame Sensitivity which works differently in a 3D Engine like a FPS.
There the sensitivity settings determine how much your avatar turn for one count from the mouse.
In that enviroment there is no pixel limitation, the only limitations is the sammlest angle your avatar can turn but this angle is usually negligible small, for example ~0,0055° (360/65536) in the Q3 engine.
@NKRO
He isn't talking about Windows Pointer Speed but about Ingame Sensitivity which works differently in a 3D Engine like a FPS.
There the sensitivity settings determine how much your avatar turn for one count from the mouse.
In that enviroment there is no pixel limitation, the only limitations is the sammlest angle your avatar can turn but this angle is usually negligible small, for example ~0,0055° (360/65536) in the Q3 engine.
According to this video, the normal version is easier to grip and lift
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GxWUCyQgUTE
can anyone confirm this?
According to this video, the normal version is easier to grip and lift
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GxWUCyQgUTE
can anyone confirm this?