geekhack
geekhack Community => Keyboards => Topic started by: obj-c on Thu, 10 March 2011, 14:28:11
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I just got a 1988 ibm model m with a two piece cap design, is there a way to remove the keys underneath the caps to get to the buckling springs without disassembling the entire board?
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get a small fork tilt and pry away. when you put them back tilt the board so the spring clicks properly. watch your eyes when removing buckling spring keys
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Quite easy. Put your keycap puller to include both caps, then pull gently.
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lol sorry to necro this thread but my friend gave me his IBM Model M today.
So now I want to open it up and clean it. :)
Based from what I've read you just pull the keys with keycap puller, but wouldn't that damage the "notch" on the locking mechanism?
Anyone know?
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I don't think so, if it's done correctly. I, myself, use a butter knife or a flat screw driver. You place the keyboard in front of you and you use the knife/screw driver to apply a slight lever movement under the key, in the middle, it should come off with no effort.
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lol sorry to necro this thread but my friend gave me his IBM Model M today.
So now I want to open it up and clean it. :)
Based from what I've read you just pull the keys with keycap puller, but wouldn't that damage the "notch" on the locking mechanism?
Anyone know?
Holy mother of necro. And you should be fine just using a puller. Sometimes the spring gets moved around a little bit and it loses the click. If this happens, you can usually just take the cap back of and make sure to alight the spring under it right
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Use a key-cap puller. Amazon, WASD, and Elike Keyboard are among companies
selling them. You can also get the one pictured or a similar one from an ebay seller.
This is a handy device that sells for around $6. You many want to pickup a couple of them.
Also, the tool works on all the mechanical key-switch caps I've ever used/owned: Cherry,
IBM, and Topre key caps.
I wouldn't buy a metal key-cap puller shown below. These can scratch your key caps and
keyboard.
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lol cool thanks guys, I actually have 2 wire keycap puller (Filco and Signature Plastics) so I should be fine.
My main concern was damaging the locking mechanism. But if it's fine then I'm good to go.
Thanks guys !!! :)
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lol cool thanks guys, I actually have 2 wire keycap puller (Filco and Signature Plastics) so I should be fine.
My main concern was damaging the locking mechanism. But if it's fine then I'm good to go.
Thanks guys !!! :)
Filco's cap puller will do the job; and you won't damage the mechanism by using it to remove the caps.
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Removing the top half of a two part keycap is easy, some of them just fall off (hence the number of Model M with missing keycaps).
The second part is solidly made - just pull it out using the methods above, just be careful to pull it straight up and not catch the spring.
Just be careful putting the lower part back in over the spring - you should generally lift the front of the keyboard up so the spring tilts backwards in the barrel.
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I have a ton of IBM buckling spring keyboards: at least 15.
Once the case is off the easiest way to get to the keycaps is with a pen. Bic for preference. Jsut slide it down the rows. You can get all the caps off in 20-30 seconds I would say.
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I have a ton of IBM buckling spring keyboards: at least 15.
Once the case is off the easiest way to get to the keycaps is with a pen. Bic for preference. Jsut slide it down the rows. You can get all the caps off in 20-30 seconds I would say.
If only MX or Topre were as easy ...
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just be careful to pull it straight up and not catch the spring.
This - if you snag the top coils of a spring and stretch it out, you will be sorry.
If only MX or Topre were as easy ...
Alps are worse.
And Hi-Tek Space Invaders will make a grown man cry.
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just be careful to pull it straight up and not catch the spring.
This - if you snag the top coils of a spring and stretch it out, you will be sorry.
But even if this does happen, it is not the end of the world. Just a lot more work to replace a spring.
If only MX or Topre were as easy ...
Alps are worse.
And Hi-Tek Space Invaders will make a grown man cry.
Fortunately I have not been down that road. Or is that "unfortunately"?
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Fortunately I have not been down that road. Or is that "unfortunately"?
I don't like linear switches so white Hi-Teks don't turn me on, but the clicky black ones are great. The seem very solid and sturdy and there is no "wobble" at all. If a true ANSI layout existed I would be ecstatic.
Removing the key caps is very tricky, and no matter how careful you are, some 10%+ of the time you will pull off the upper part of the switch along with the cap. The spring will often jump out, and there are extremely delicate finger-like metal leaves that you have to place a wedge of plastic into, semi-blindly, in order to put them back together.
Last, if you have to replace one, there are 4 wires (can't really call them legs) that do not have strain relief so it is hard and tricky to remove a switch without wrecking it.
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Fortunately I have not been down that road. Or is that "unfortunately"?
I don't like linear switches so white Hi-Teks don't turn me on, but the clicky black ones are great. The seem very solid and sturdy and there is no "wobble" at all. If a true ANSI layout existed I would be ecstatic.
Removing the key caps is very tricky, and no matter how careful you are, some 10%+ of the time you will pull off the upper part of the switch along with the cap. The spring will often jump out, and there are extremely delicate finger-like metal leaves that you have to place a wedge of plastic into, semi-blindly, in order to put them back together.
Last, if you have to replace one, there are 4 wires (can't really call them legs) that do not have strain relief so it is hard and tricky to remove a switch without wrecking it.
Ouch!
Doesn't sound like these keyboards were made to be user-maintainable!