geekhack
geekhack Marketplace => Great Finds => Topic started by: eyesnine on Sat, 02 July 2011, 19:58:50
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This one just came up, apparently the seller has a large quantity.
Good for someone that wants MX clear stems for cheap.
http://cgi.ebay.com/QTY-Cherry-MX-8000-POS-PS2-Keyboard-Credit-Card-Swiper-/320722040204?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4aac85f58c
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/603429/8200/7.1.11gc100_0448.jpg)
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/603429/8200/7.1.11gc100_0449.jpg)
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/603429/8200/3.3.11GC100_9440.JPG)
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Good luck! I sold my last new one three days before. Well that was one staying in my store for about 2 years(cherry stop making them since 2009).
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At least these ones don't seem to be painted. Might have to get one for work...
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Quick info, these can just as well be browns. I own my own g80-8200 lbpus and it has browns. payed more then this, sadly.
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At least these ones don't seem to be painted. Might have to get one for work...
painted? what?
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Ask the seller to pull a keycap before buying!
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These are really dirty, key feel is probably going to be negatively affected. Better for harvesting clear stems to do ergo mods.
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painted? what?
This seller also had some G80-8113s for sale (http://geekhack.org/showthread.php?17570-G80-8113LRCUS-0-on-eBay-for-20usd), but they where painted for some reason. I think someone said the plastic had turned yellow, and someone tried to paint them back to the origonal color. Still a smashing deal for a nice board, but kind of weird.
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I already listed these boards in the previous thread that had the other clear boards he sold that Mr. Perfect linked.\
Yeah, they are painted for that reason. Whoever did it left circles around the cherry logo and the keyboard light legends so that you could see them, and its obvious that they are yellow there.
The two I got are pretty great, considering getting one or two of these as well.
I've actually asked him if these are painted as well already.
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Too bad the shipping is $40 to Sweden. Otherwise I would have bought one.
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That's still not a bad price, considering what you're getting. Look these things up, a new one is close to $200. :suspicious:
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if you get one of the ones with browns, 40$ shipping isnt that bad. I got my board for 30+44 shipping to germany and it is the best board Ive had so far for what i need at work. Ive programmed autocad shortcuts to the extra buttons, for example. Only gripe I have with the board is left shift...I don't understand why they put the ANSI shift on a board with an ISO enter. So im basically missing a button for the regular ISO layout, but im slowly adapting to not having it.
Even with clears this board is a solid performer, especially in situations where you can use extra macro keys, I keep hearing MMO-players asking for more buttons^^. I find the programmable buttons around the arrow keys nice and comfortable to use, and could imagine arrow cluster gamers would love this layout.
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Looks like a diode on the picture with a pulled keycap, are they more than 2KRO? If they are 6KRO I might get one for MMO gaming, the arrow cluster with programmable buttons look lovely.
I hope the condition isn't as bad as it looks on the picture.
(http://www.tbfcomputing.com/ebaypicture/3.3.11GC100_9440.JPG)
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I purchased two of them, a bit silly perhaps, but since the shipping was most of the cost it was only $20 extra for a second board. The USD to Swedish krona rate is very beneficial for me right now.
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You'll definitely want to give them a good cleaning when you get them. Personally, I'd take the whole thing apart and soak the keycaps and case overnight.
They may have some cosmetic issues even after thorough cleaning, but I'll bet that they will still function perfectly. Cherry MX switches are very resilient.
Let us know how everything works out.
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You'll definitely want to give them a good cleaning when you get them. Personally, I'd take the whole thing apart and soak the keycaps and case overnight.
They may have some cosmetic issues even after thorough cleaning, but I'll bet that they will still function perfectly. Cherry MX switches are very resilient.
Let us know how everything works out.
I sure will, I might even replace the keycaps for some doubleshots if I can.
I hope the keyboards won't be in that bad condition.
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I bought the same or very similar POS keyboard from the same seller a few weeks ago. Model is G80-8113LRCUS. There was a "Great Finds" post on this. people here were able to offer the sellers down to $7.50 each for 2. I think my offer was $10 each for 2 plus shipping.
The ones I received are MX clears. Each switch has a diode inside the switch. The spacebar has a grey switch. And the cases were painted over. They are dirty keyboards. The keys are lasered keys.
I just bought them for the clear switches. I am in the process of de-soldering them off the board, and then junk the rest.
If you know any used keyboards with MX Brown, please let me know.
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Looks like a diode on the picture with a pulled keycap, are they more than 2KRO? If they are 6KRO I might get one for MMO gaming, the arrow cluster with programmable buttons look lovely.
I hope the condition isn't as bad as it looks on the picture.
That picture is actually of the previous board he was selling. You can tell by the enter key being that close and then the end of the board is right there. The board this pic is from is NKRO.
I've asked him to take a new pic of this board. But Mr. Perfect says that according to the NKRO wiki this one has it as well.
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The G80-8200LPBUS with PS/2 is listed as having NKRO in the NKRO wiki (http://geekhack.org/showwiki.php?title=NKey+Rollover+-+Overview+Testing+Methodology+and+Results). A nice review of the board can be found here (http://geekhack.org/showwiki.php?title=Island:10034)(I really like how he labeled the relegandable keys).
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The 8113s seem to command a lower price than 8200s for some reason; likely better availability and/or less desirability due to clumsy layout.
I put in an offer for two. We'll see how it goes.
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Yeah, I liked what he did with that too. I figured that icons like that would work well. Once I've made some mods to some of mine in terms of switches and stuff I might try some of this software stuff. Do you think the "it keeps its macros in memory" thing applies to the other board with the touchpad on it as well?
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The G80-8113? Yes, it also stores the macros onboard. Very cool stuff, it's no wonder they cost so much when new.
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Yeah, that is nice to know. I'll be wanting to turn one or both into blue cherry and ergo clear. Though I'm thinking of getting one or two of these to do that, because I think without that stupid trackpad these will look better modernized. By that I mean the black paint plus dyed keys like people have done to model m's.
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Ok, he told me that these are from the same place as the last set of stuff he had. They use the same switch/slider as the last set (clears) and are a little dirtier but not painted.
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ordered two; a reduced offer was taken, so just over 40 delivered
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For what it is worth, I bought 3 of the last round of these and they were not dirty at all. Seemed like light use.
Sent from my EVO
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anybody get theirs yet? I just made an offer on two.
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these are back up again. looks like the seller assumed that these boards were clear switches like the last ones so posted that info.
he has now removed the clear switch pic and states that these are brown stems. seems like a great deal for browns. I may have to grab a few since I never seem to have enough brown springs laying around.
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Yeah, unfortunately for some of us, who bought from the clear switch lot, we got stupid browns instead. He better make this **** right, as I have no need nor interest in the POS I got (and using the internet version of that acronym).
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Uh, that means these are mixed. This is what N8N bought and he got clears. That is not a fun grab-bag.
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Yeah, I was less than pleased. I still haven't heard back from the ebay seller, nearly 24 hours after I contacted him.
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Hah! Nice surprise for me who would rather get cherry browns.
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I ordered two and got one of each- now I can try ergo clears.
Edit:
Has anyone had trouble installing the cherry tools software?
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I just bought 2 of each, two browns and two whites. had some problems but apparently he has a mix and I asked and he checked them for me. Oh, yeah, I am new here. Long time reader and lurker.
Edit: Anyone else notice the serialnumber that states US and the pictures which shows a European ISO-Enter?
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Very common on POS models. Annoying...but I have no clue why they do it.
I just bought 2 of each, two browns and two whites. had some problems but apparently he has a mix and I asked and he checked them for me. Oh, yeah, I am new here. Long time reader and lurker.
Edit: Anyone else notice the serialnumber that states US and the pictures which shows a European ISO-Enter?
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this is my new favorite board. bought one for work use, it was disgustingly filthy but the clears are awesome and it is in fact NKRO (or at least 6KRO - I don't have anything with a PS/2 port.) Waiting for another to show up for home because I can't decide if I like it better than my Model M (heresy?) I also posted an AutoCAD file in the keyboard forum that I made for the keycaps so I could get turn a goofy POS feature into something useful - I put the AutoCAD shortcuts on the F-keys. (if you use a program that uses F-keys it's nice to have them labeled.) Been using it for about a week now and it's still great.
Dislikes: ISO enter. Clear cap keys feel a little weird, and some of them I use a lot (delete, arrows) Numpad doesn't have arrows etc. on it, which is annoying. Cats love to play with the little clear caps for the relegendable keys. But for $30 shipped and an evening's worth of cleaning I have a great board.
Likes: pretty standard layout other than the keys around the numpad (which I don't use that often) and the abovementioned ISO enter. Am so use to standard layout keyboards that anything else is hard for me. CLEARS!!! far outweigh the negatives. Only thing that could possibly be better would be a bone-standard 104-key layout board with these same switches, but I won't hold my breath for one to come up at this price.
Seller is cool, will combine shipping if you ask nicely (also bought some smaller junk POS boards from him for the parts - mainly the clear caps and I think that I may have horked up the card reader while cleaning on the first one.)
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You definitely need to request one with "white sliders" if you want clears. He sent me browns, and said the only clears he had left were the 8113 models, which are a bit more expensive. And I think he only had 2 left anyway.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Cherry-POS-Keyboard-w-Credit-Card-Swiper-MX-8100-White-/330503373182?pt=PCA_Mice_Trackballs&hash=item4cf389417e
He did tell me the ones left are much cleaner than that one, for whatever that's worth.
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I received my two boards today, both of them were white clear switches. I was set on getting browns, but I ended up liking clears more than I thought I would.
Condition was alright but dirty. Will clean them today.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]21239[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]21240[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]21241[/ATTACH]
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How would we go about modding this from ISO on ANSI? I can't stand those enter keys. (I haven't bought one of these yet, but I'm looking to...)
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I don't think you can. I have a G80-8113 with the same enter key, and the PCB is not designed with extra holes for an ANSI layout. You can see it in Alex's second picture. It's a shame, really.
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You'll definitely want to give them a good cleaning when you get them. Personally, I'd take the whole thing apart and soak the keycaps and case overnight.
They may have some cosmetic issues even after thorough cleaning, but I'll bet that they will still function perfectly. Cherry MX switches are very resilient.
Let us know how everything works out.
How does one open the case without breaking it? The snap on plastic seems very fragile.
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You'll have to just hope you don't break it when doing so. I have the other one, but it really is just held on by those snap on tabs.
As far as converting it to ANSI, that pic just shows me what the standard holes look like. You could desolder those two switches and then cut holes and spaghetti wire to the original spots. It just depends on what the actual traces look like.
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How does one open the case without breaking it? The snap on plastic seems very fragile.
It's super easy once you figure it out. Use a decent sized flat head screwdriver and start on the upper back tab. I like to kind of use my off hand to apply slight separating pressure and pop the first tab (i slide the flat head screwdriverin and twist), once it is off, go to the next big one, then go back to the small one on the side and work your way back and forth until you have them all popped off. The case will just come right off after this.
I've done this around 10 times over the past few weeks and it's super easy.
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It's super easy once you figure it out. Use a decent sized flat head screwdriver and start on the upper back tab. I like to kind of use my off hand to apply slight separating pressure and pop the first tab (i slide the flat head screwdriverin and twist), once it is off, go to the next big one, then go back to the small one on the side and work your way back and forth until you have them all popped off. The case will just come right off after this.
I've done this around 10 times over the past few weeks and it's super easy.
It was indeed pretty painless. It snapped together really easy aswell after I was done.
Did any of you have troubles with the firmware for the programmable keys? I downloaded Cherry Tools 5.8 and it says that it doesn't detect any keyboard. I suspect it's because my PC lacks a PS/2 port and I connected it with a USB converter.
Also it seems like one of the two keyboards I got did not work, the 3 LEDs light up, but there is no response from the keyboard. Any idea what could be the problem? I suppose I will harvest the switches from that one.
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I noticed that it doesn't seem to be full NKRO, when holding left shift and pressing two arrow keys it kills the left shift.
Is it the same for you?
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I have been using the sharp end of a dental floss pick to open the board up. No scratches and very little force required
(http://img.diytrade.com/cdimg/238586/5838776/0/1210312668/dental_floss_picks.jpg)
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I think that is an artifact of your ps2 to usb converter and not anything the board is doing. The board works great.
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How would we go about modding this from ISO on ANSI? I can't stand those enter keys. (I haven't bought one of these yet, but I'm looking to...)
I don't know if this will work as I haven't been able to try it, but what I was going to do was drill mounting holes to move two of the switches, and then run jumper wires to them from their original location.
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Also it seems like one of the two keyboards I got did not work, the 3 LEDs light up, but there is no response from the keyboard. Any idea what could be the problem? I suppose I will harvest the switches from that one.
Do you have one of the switches disassembled by any chance? A key stuck down? I tried booting up with one of the keystems removed once, and that's all it did. Lit up three LEDs and hung. At first I thought I'd fried it. :shocked:
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Did any of you have troubles with the firmware for the programmable keys? I downloaded Cherry Tools 5.8 and it says that it doesn't detect any keyboard. I suspect it's because my PC lacks a PS/2 port and I connected it with a USB converter.
Cherry Tools won't work through a PS/2 to USB converter - you'll need a computer with a PS/2 port to program the keyboard.
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I got four with all clear switches. Sorta hoped that I would get one brown. I have now cleaned two and they are all four fully working, even the magnetic card reader. One has a broken foot but no big problem. One has a red cherry logo whilst the others have gray logos. The colour of the cable connector at the end also differs and I got two with purple and two with gray connectors. It seems there are several different models but the differences are minor. I am typing this from one of them right now. Will try the macroprogram for fun later. Will probably sell the others once I have cleaned them.
Edit: To clearify, I asked him beforehand and I got him to check that the switches were in fact mx clears and he could promise two clears and two unchecked. That is why I had hoped that one of the unchecked ones were brown but still good.
On another note, I also bought a NIB Keytronic Ergoforce locally for 4$ just for fun.
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Will probably sell the others once I have cleaned them.
What are you selling them for? I was considering getting one of these until he ran out.
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I'll trade you for one with browns, if you like. I have one of each and far prefer the clears. Mine's clean, don't care if yours is not (probably will be a stem donor)
BTW they are still available, he has raised the price to $23 now though. Still not bad, just the shipping sucks. I am half tempted to buy several just so I never run out of clears :)
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What are you selling them for? I was considering getting one of these until he ran out.
... Ran out of what? The seller's got both browns and clears for sale right now.
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I got a pair of them (offered 40.- shipped) and took them to work.
they clean up OK, but the lasered keys still suck. I decorated one with a mix of Round One doubleshots, -8113 black doubleshots, stock keys, an original red GH key, and lasered -3000 black keys.
One big issue I have is Cherry Tools: I can't find a way to make the programmed keys autorepeat... and I moved arrows around, so it's terrible
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... Ran out of what? The seller's got both browns and clears for sale right now.
Earlier in this thread it was reported that he was out of the G80-8200s with the clear stem and only had browns left. That's not the case? :confused:
You definitely need to request one with "white sliders" if you want clears. He sent me browns, and said the only clears he had left were the 8113 models, which are a bit more expensive. And I think he only had 2 left anyway.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Cherry-POS-Keyboard-w-Credit-Card-Swiper-MX-8100-White-/330503373182?pt=PCA_Mice_Trackballs&hash=item4cf389417e
He did tell me the ones left are much cleaner than that one, for whatever that's worth.
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There was a short period of turmoil where he was figuring out what a mech switch was and the difference between the two. He pulled all auctions relating to these models of boards. He has since listed two auctions one with "White switches" and one with "Brown switches".
So no, that isn't the case. There may be only a few left of that auction with the stupid trackpad, but who wants a stupid trackpad?
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By the way, he'll take a $10 offer ... I went for 2 @ $10/ea + $17 shipping - 37.00 for a Brown and a Clear. Not too shabby. Still not thrilled with this enter key, but I'm getting used to it.
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Does anyone know what plastic these are? I know the regular lasered keys are PBT, but what about the relegendables or the spacebar?
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It just so happens that I have a set of caps from one right here... unfortunately neither the space bar nor the relegendable caps have the material identified on them, so you'd have to test them presumably destructively :/
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How could you test the keys to see if they are PBT?
Sent from my EVO
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There's a brief description in the "All About Keys" wiki. Ripster also has a dedicated article about it:
http://geekhack.org/showwiki.php?title=Island:14831
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There was a short period of turmoil where he was figuring out what a mech switch was and the difference between the two. He pulled all auctions relating to these models of boards. He has since listed two auctions one with "White switches" and one with "Brown switches".
So no, that isn't the case. There may be only a few left of that auction with the stupid trackpad, but who wants a stupid trackpad?
Oh, ok. I see the other auctions now, thanks. He listed them as "MX 8000", so they didn't show up in a search for G80-8200. A number he did put inside the auction text though. :der:
For anyone interested, new auctions for browns (http://cgi.ebay.com/Cherry-MX-8000-POS-card-swipe-keyboard-BROWN-SWITCH-PS2-/320730799469?pt=PCA_Mice_Trackballs&hash=item4aad0b9d6d) and clears (http://cgi.ebay.com/Cherry-MX-8000-POS-card-swipe-keyboard-PS2-WHITE-SWITCH-/330590827681?pt=PCA_Mice_Trackballs&hash=item4cf8bfb4a1).
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What are you selling them for? I was considering getting one of these until he ran out.
I am probably going to sell them locally in Sweden where I have put them up for sale at swedish computerforums. You should be able to get one from him now though if I understand the thread correctly. I can't get the freaking Cherry Tools to work in 64bit Win7 and not my friend either. Installation hangs with an Error 1935. I tried the virtual xp in win7 and it installed sucessfully but from that virtual pc, it can't see the keyboard. Will I have to throw together some crappy pc just to install xp on it to program this keyboard or what?
For those interested:
Before cleanup:
http://i.imgur.com/00lB5.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/o3XVn.jpg
After cleanup:
http://i.imgur.com/bBY5q.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/89Gli.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/pWYp1h.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/yWVSI.jpg
Edit: First mechanical keyboard, first keyboard-restoration and damn proud of the result. It looks sorta crisp now :=
Also, I make accidental zoidbergs when I try to do smileyfaces and really need to fix some other mappings as well so please, any help with Cherry Tools?
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damorgue, very nice cleaning job!! It looks like new now!
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yeah, nice job and I like those boards too (see sig ) I haven't tried to install Cherry tools myself but I've been told that it requires a PS/2 connection - won't work over USB. (that's the main reason I haven't tried it - I no longer have a PC with a PS/2 port.)
My main quibble with them is the ISO enter, but I'm guessing if you're in Sweden you're probably used to it :)
so I gotta ask - what's a zoidberg? (besides the lobster-critter from Futurama, that is.)
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Cherry tools worked via USB on my USB 8113. It had this frustrating issue though that it blocked out all PS/2 keyboards after login, though. Super annoying, that. And that was also on Windows 7 x64.
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I can't get the freaking Cherry Tools to work in 64bit Win7 and not my friend either. Installation hangs with an Error 1935. I tried the virtual xp in win7 and it installed sucessfully but from that virtual pc, it can't see the keyboard. Will I have to throw together some crappy pc just to install xp on it to program this keyboard or what?
Cherry Tools should work fine on Windows 7 x64. I have it installed on my 7 x64 box and have used it to configure a G80-8113. Latest version is 5.8 and supports all versions of Windows from 2000 onward. English language here (http://www.cherry.de/files/software/Cherry_Tools_58_EN.zip), also have French (http://www.cherry.de/files/software/Cherry_Tools_58_FR.zip) and German (http://www.cherry.de/files/software/Cherry_Tools_58_DE.zip). Keep in mind that you can't use a PS2->USB converter if you have a PS2 board, or the tools won't see the board. Also, the first time running the tools it complained about the board having old firmware on it, but then offered to update the firmware and it worked fine from there.
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yes, that is what I meant in my previous post. I was assuming that we were talking about the "rawko" boards primarily which are all natively PS/2 - which is not a bad thing as as I understand it those are NKRO - not sure about the USB versions.
I kind of miss having a PS/2 port. I know, Ripster is going to mock me now. But really, why not just include it? It's the standard, it's more efficient than USB, and how much does it really add to the cost of a mobo?
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yeah, nice job and I like those boards too (see sig ) I haven't tried to install Cherry tools myself but I've been told that it requires a PS/2 connection - won't work over USB. (that's the main reason I haven't tried it - I no longer have a PC with a PS/2 port.)
My main quibble with them is the ISO enter, but I'm guessing if you're in Sweden you're probably used to it :)
so I gotta ask - what's a zoidberg? (besides the lobster-critter from Futurama, that is.)
Thx. I only tried it on my ps/2, and yes, I have seen that it is supposed to work in win7 but neither me nor my friend can install it. In virtual xp, where it could install, I cannot import ps/2 devices. It has a special option to import usb devices but that is all.
I meant zoidberg from futurama. smiley :) becomes zoidberg := because I am confused by layouts atm.
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Hey ripster, I probably learnt most of what I know about keyboards from you so thx
I don't really see any advantages with usb over PS/2 though, it seems worse in every way possible. Also, wtf is this **** I hear about no more PATA or IDE? The very best optical drives are PATA...
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I remember someone asking what material it is and don't know if anyone answered, there is a stamp on the inside that said ABS. I don't know if the keycaps are the same plastic though.
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PS/2. Farewell. I knew ye well.
I heard of a company that will release a pci-card with two PS/2 for mouse and keyboard as well as a game port (MIDI-port) for older joysticks and the such. Just sayin' it ain't dead just because of UEFI.
Edit: A fair guess would be that the connected peripherals won't work until the driver for the card kicks in though, so no nice keyboard until OS boots.
Edit2: My board has UEFI and a a combined PS/2, but who needs mice on that port anyway.
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I installed another copy of win 7 on a spare disk and I got the Cherry Tools to install. During startup, it asked me to update the firmware and it tried to but failed. The board is now bricked. Cherry Tools doesn't recognize it anymore so I can't even try to flash it back. The only sign of live is the lights for num lock, caps lock and scroll lock which are on constant now.
F**K
Does yours say "multiboard", because mine doesn't. Mine says G80-8200LPDUS /07
The /07 differs between the boards, from /05 to /08
One of the reviews clearly shows that it says "multiboard" on the label in front of these numbers. I wonder if this might be the issue.
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Mu-mu-multipost
I have managed to bypass the check that controls whether there is a cherryboard attached. I believe I can flash my faulty board.
Could anyone with any of these boards retrieve their firmwares through Cherry Tools and if it says "G80-8200LPBUS_V2.ckr", please upload it for me? Note the V2! My functioning boards all say V3 and I have tried to load that firmware onto my failed one and it gives warnings about not all modules beings supported and then fails.
Edit: I resolved my issues. I went to hell and back, now back to V2 of the firmware. I won't ever try that again. I am lucky I had several other similar boards to check and use in the process. If your firmwareupdate fails, and you don't have some other identical boards to solder, replace parts, update and then resolder them back, then you are screwed. You will also need to hotswap the boards to make the program detect a board and then switch to the one that you want to flash. Damn, took me a day but I made it. If I had worked I would have earned enough to buy plenty of these though. On the other hand, it feels nice to have accomplished it.
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I haven't been able to get cherry tools to install on win7 64. I even did a clean install and it still wont work. Im getting a error at the end of the installer that causes it to revert.
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I haven't been able to get cherry tools to install on win7 64. I even did a clean install and it still wont work. Im getting a error at the end of the installer that causes it to revert.
Error 1935?
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Yeah, Error 1935.
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Yeah, Error 1935.
I tried everything to solve that error but in the end couldn't resolve it. Virtual Windows XP doesn't work either since the virtual pc can't see the ps/2. My friend got the same error as well. You have two options:
A) Reinstall windows, preferably only a temporary installation on some spare disk you might have just to install Cherry Tools and program the keyboard, then remove that copy of windows and return to your proper one. This is what I did but if you don't have a spare disk around, this might become complicated.
B) Program the keyboard by key presses, yes, it can be done.
Edit: Some instructions
To Program a Key
1. Close all programs and open an editor such as Notepad or go to a DOS Prompt
2. Enter program mode by holding down the following six key combination until you hear two beeps and ***MENU ENTRY*** is displayed in your editor.
Ctrl (left) ,Shift (left), Alt(left), Ctrl (right), Shift (right), Alt (right)
3. Press the key you wish to set to program (to select it)
4. Enter the string of keystrokes that you want
5. Press the key a second time (to set to close the key)
6. Cancel the Find/Replace box using the mouse (for Windows 2000 and XP users) if it opens
Repeat Steps 3 through 6 for any other keys that you would like to program
7. Exit Program Mode by pressing the Spacebar (you should see ***MENU EXIT*** and hear two beeps)
To Set a Key Back to Default
1. Close all programs and open an editor such as Notepad or go to a DOS Prompt
2. Enter program mode by holding down the following six key combination until you hear two beeps and ***MENU ENTRY*** is displayed in your editor.
Ctrl (left) ,Shift (left), Alt(left), Ctrl (right), Shift (right), Alt (right)
3. Press the key you wish to set to default (to select it)
4. Press the key a second time (to set to default)
5. Cancel the Find/Replace box using the mouse (for Windows 2000 and XP users)
Repeat Steps 3 through 5 for any other keys that you would like to set to default
6. Exit Program Mode by pressing the Spacebar (you should see ***MENU EXIT*** and hear two beeps)
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I really don't understand why this error is occurring. I tried a clean install of windows and that didn't fix it. A friend has a very similar computer with the same motherboard and it works for him.
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I really don't understand why this error is occurring. I tried a clean install of windows and that didn't fix it. A friend has a very similar computer with the same motherboard and it works for him.
me neither, it seems arbitrary. As I said, it was the same computer that I got it working on with a fresh iosntall of windows 7. It seems common. Have you tried the non-Cherry Tools method that I mentioned?
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Mine was disgusting. I soaked the keycaps in hot water and soap for 3 hours and they look great now. The one I got has a diode in every switch.
How do I remove the entire switch from the PCB? Is it different when diodes are involved?
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How do I remove the entire switch from the PCB? Is it different when diodes are involved?
No difference. You just need to de-solder all 4 contact points for every switch.
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Oh, I thought PCB mounted switches didn't need to be desoldered. I may just take the stems and put them in my Das, we'll see.
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If you want to remove the switch you have to desolder it. If you want to open the switch for cleaning or stem swap and it's a PCB mount switch, you just take the top half of the switch casing off. The exception is if an LED is mounted in the switch in which case you have to desolder that first.
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re: the above, these boards make great switch try boards for various MX combinations... had one set up as ergo clears for a while to try them out. Much faster than desoldering two (or four) points for every switch! These particular boards just require two small jeweler's screwdrivers to pop the top on each switch, as mentioned above. The only reason to desolder is if you wanted to harvest the entire switches for another project, or if something in the bottom part of a switch had completely failed.
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Well, the clears feel good but I don't think I want to disassemble my mx spos to try ergo clears just yet. Does anyone know where I could find info about cutting off the right portion of the circuitboard? I'd like to read what that entails and whether or not this keyboard would be a good candidate for something like the skeleton TKL boards in the classifieds.
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Does anyone know of a cheap and simple way to get the lighter springs to try ergo clears? Just the springs that is, to avoid having to open 200 switches and only 100.
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Buy only springs ....
Sent from my Milestone using Tapatalk
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But noone can actually find them. You'd have to custom design them and then buy a massive enough amount to make it worthwhile for the manufacturer.
Or hope that you can find someone who just hates the lighter springs and has some (yeah right).
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Ergo clears, I'm liking them (I did disassemble the mx spos temporarily). I really like the downward action but they seem to release upward in a weird manner that is a little rough. I also just hate bottoming out on these switches and I feel the same way about blues. I can only type fast (120wpm+) if I don't bottom out. I love bottoming out on browns though.
edit: Does anyone else with typing speeds similar to mine have issues bottoming out on specific switches?
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I remember someone asking what material it is and don't know if anyone answered, there is a stamp on the inside that said ABS. I don't know if the keycaps are the same plastic though.
The frame and relegendable keys are ABS, the alpha keys are PBT.
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wait
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The frame and relegendable keys are ABS, the alpha keys are PBT.
If you found that from the wiki, that's because I was the one who asked and then destroyed my relegendable keys to find out they were ABS.
That stamp would have referred directly to the case and nothing else though.