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geekhack Community => Keyboard Keycaps => Topic started by: Playtrumpet on Sun, 16 October 2011, 20:56:39
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So, I've recently experienced a spike of interest in Aluminum Cherry MX keycaps. I searched around and found some info here and there, but I have specific questions I know you experts can help answer. For now, assume I have no reliable knowledge on aluminum keycaps.
I am interested in plain (no characters, and no color or sculpted customization), long-lasting, NON-shiny aluminum keycaps. What am I looking for? Brushed, sanded, anodized? Is sandblasted the best way to go? Am I wrong in assuming they will last (stay in their original condition) longer than any and all plastic keys I may ever get? And of course most importantly, WHERE/from whom can I buy them?*
Thank you for your help.
*Not looking for a full keyboard worth of keys - just 2 for a specific row.
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See the Key Ref Wiki under Scarface.
You cant get those anymore. right?
I was recently on this search myself and I found more Titanium Key Caps then aluminum. Although there is this Space Bar (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminum-Space-Bar-Cherry-MX-Key-Cap-/330620177898?pt=PCA_Mice_Trackballs&hash=item4cfa7f8dea) but you better have some deep pockets.
please post if you find anything good, I am still interested in getting a couple for the func row myself
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From what I know of Aluminium, you should probably get it clear- anodized (or colour if you prefer). This should help prevent corrosion (and probably wear) from your fingers.
Hmm, I wonder if I design it, if I can get SP to use their injection moulding machine for a metal or ceramic powder injection moulding process...
If so, you'd be able to get a doubleshot metal keycap.
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If anyone would ever do it, my inner car geek would love some red and blue anodized aluminum keycaps. Would look sweet with a stainless steel case... kind of an old school Aeroquip look.
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I have a feeling those who got in on the original Scarface metal key sale aren't very willing to part with their amazing keys.. Gahhh.
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My GF is into making jewelry and I was talking to her about this awhile ago and she mentioned "metal clay"
[ATTACH=CONFIG]28851[/ATTACH]
I guess the general Idea is that it works like clay, so you sculpt it and then fire it [strike]in a kelhm[/strike] (uses a torch on website).
"Metal clay is made up of metal particles combined with an organic binder. The moist clay is shaped as desired, left to dry and then fired at temperatures between 1100 and 1650 degrees Fahrenheit. After the binder is burned away, you are left with an almost pure metal." Website (http://kraphti-dez-kreations.blogspot.com/2010/01/metal-clay-play.html)
Anyways I thought about try to make some key caps like this.
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Nice find. I use my torches for Crème brûlée.
I need to figure out some kind of jig for the underside of the key cap
[ATTACH=CONFIG]28877[/ATTACH]
maybe similar to this one that you did ripster. I will have to order a switch to make the jig
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I need to figure out some kind of jig for the underside of the key cap
(Attachment) 28877[/ATTACH]
maybe similar to this one that you did ripster. I will have to order a switch to make the jig
mmm looks yummy. misses some sperm on it and the final picture would be perfect. :yo:
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Ooooohh boy.. after watching that page i think i am now forced to start myself creating some metal keycaps now...
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http://cafe.naver.com/sfkey.cafe?iframe_url=/ArticleRead.nhn%3Farticleid=334&
It's disgusting and I want it.
[video=youtube;HKtOxdlV1AA]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HKtOxdlV1AA[/video]
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What about carbon? I imagine it would be mind-bendingly labour intensive or mind-bendingly expensive if you have automated equipment to be able to produce the shape needed, but...?
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What about carbon? I imagine it would be mind-bendingly labour intensive or mind-bendingly expensive if you have automated equipment to be able to produce the shape needed, but...?
Depends on the type of carbon. For example Diamond is out of the question (It's not TOO hard to synthesize, but it's super difficult to machine) and Graphite would be pretty easy.
If you mean carbon fiber... It's hard to get the "sharp" edge on the keycap. The carbon fiber's bend radius is too large, but it shouldn't be too hard to make the top out of it.
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Me, I want to see Ceramic keycaps. Titinium dioxide, Yttria-stabilized zirconia, etc. It'd be pretty excellent. Also, it's not even that expensive to do powder injection molding. You'd be able to use water as the solvent, and PAA or whatever as the binder. Then, all you need in a decent sintering oven, and you're set.
Issues include: Shrinkage (from the sintering), ceramics are expensive, etc.
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I've seen pictures of graphite keycaps on Scarface's site.
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My GF is into making jewelry and I was talking to her about this awhile ago and she mentioned "metal clay"
(Attachment) 28851[/ATTACH]
I guess the general Idea is that it works like clay, so you sculpt it and then fire it [strike]in a kelhm[/strike] (uses a torch on website).
"Metal clay is made up of metal particles combined with an organic binder. The moist clay is shaped as desired, left to dry and then fired at temperatures between 1100 and 1650 degrees Fahrenheit. After the binder is burned away, you are left with an almost pure metal." Website (http://kraphti-dez-kreations.blogspot.com/2010/01/metal-clay-play.html)
Anyways I thought about try to make some key caps like this.
I've worked with these for a gift to my GF... it would be difficult to do for keycaps. they have a 10-15% shrinkage, and depending on brand and the way you fire it, it doesn't always shrink uniformly
here's some images of the jewelry i made, the final product was much smaller... we need to either get some metal mold for the bottom half of the cap to let the clay to sit on to keep the shape (then we'll have to deal with uneven heat distribution and warpage/tearing
this is the silverclay
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y222/icbob/photo1-3.jpg)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y222/icbob/photo2-4.jpg)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y222/icbob/photo3-4.jpg)
and here's one out of the bronze clay:
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y222/icbob/photo4-2.jpg)
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I've actually been toying with the idea of cold casting (http://www.sculpt.com/technotes/COLDCAST.htm) to do bronze or nickel powder infused caps.. i've ordered that material and prob will be working on these in the next 2-3 weeks.
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I've actually been toying with the idea of cold casting (http://www.sculpt.com/technotes/COLDCAST.htm) to do bronze or nickel powder infused caps.. i've ordered that material and prob will be working on these in the next 2-3 weeks.
wow this is impressive. I'm glad to hear from someone who has already worked with the material. I had no idea there was a shrinkage of the material when fired. Oh by the way those ratings looked pretty cool too
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wow this is impressive. I'm glad to hear from someone who has already worked with the material. I had no idea there was a shrinkage of the material when fired. Oh by the way those ratings looked pretty cool too
Shrinkage occurs through densification. Like: Before sintering the piece is still somewhat porous (The solvent has evaporated, leaving pores) so when you put it in an oven, the pores will fill, which will make it more dense (and a lot stronger) but it'll also have to shrink a bit.
You can get pretty close to fully dense before firing, but that requires a really closely-engineered bimodal particle size distribution (or worse, trimodal).
For perfectly spherical particles, all one size, you can only get to 68% dense, but if you have two sizes, the theoretical max is .68+ (1-.68)*.68 or 90% ish. and the smaller size must be a specific amount (or more) smaller.
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This is for ceramic powders. For "normal" clays, it's a lot harder to predict the densification and shrinkage, as it's significantly less well defined. (ad harder to characterize)
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Also, this cold-casting technique looks pretty cool. Howabout instead of metal/ceramic keycaps, we try for epoxy ones first?
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there's also the organic binders, which allow the metal powder to be clay-like, burning away contributing to portion of the shrinkage.
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Also, this cold-casting technique looks pretty cool. Howabout instead of metal/ceramic keycaps, we try for epoxy ones first?
that's what i'm doing first, doing a few test ones ... im also wondering if a doubleshot would be possible.... depending on how viscous the epoxy is.
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there's also the organic binders, which allow the metal powder to be clay-like, burning away contributing to portion of the shrinkage.
Yes, but any deflocculant will probably have a greater effect. Ceramic powders need binders, too.
The difference is that a binder is usually only 0.25-2 wt% of the final, so when it burns out, there's really not that much extra space to fill.
A Deflocculant, on the other hand, will increase the gaps between the pacticles (as it should: It prevents agglomerations and flocs from occuring) will likely have a greater effect.
Note: I haven't verified this experimentally yet.
I recommend anyone to look up on deflocculants, as they're pretty cool.
that's what i'm doing first, doing a few test ones ... im also wondering if a doubleshot would be possible.... depending on how viscous the epoxy is.
Hmm, I don't really know that much on epoxy: How do you make a mould for it (that the epoxy won't stick to)? I feel like making a set of moulds would be the hardest part by far. Alternatively you could cast it, then machine a letter into the surface, then cast again. I feel like this'd be easier for a small run than making moulds, especially if you already have some files or something.
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I need to figure out some kind of jig for the underside of the key cap
(Attachment) 28877[/ATTACH]
maybe similar to this one that you did ripster. I will have to order a switch to make the jig
no need for the switch just use a stabilizer insert and if you dont have some grab them from WASD.
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Hmm, I don't really know that much on epoxy: How do you make a mould for it (that the epoxy won't stick to)? I feel like making a set of moulds would be the hardest part by far. Alternatively you could cast it, then machine a letter into the surface, then cast again. I feel like this'd be easier for a small run than making moulds, especially if you already have some files or something.
i was planning on sacrificing an old lasered cherry cap and make a silicon mold. There's a spray you can use to prevent epoxy from sticking to the mold... some short of an releasing agent.
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Makes sense: Teflon would also probably work (at temperatures under ~400F)
Tell me how it works out!
Maybe I'll buy some Yttria Stabilized Zirconia or Al2O3 powder and try my hand at casting some. Eventually.
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Sure thing, soon as this ebay seller gets around to shipping my supplies -___- this is what i get for trying to save a few dollars
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wtb black anodized aluminum keycaps for all my keys... =(
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me too lol
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me three =(
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me four!
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Hmmm... in Theory you could get yourself blank black keycaps, anodize them, and then CNC the letters out... aside from some little edges inside the lettering, could that work?
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Might be cleaner to mask out the symbols. The edges from that engraving could wind up a little painful.