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geekhack Community => Keyboards => Topic started by: TheProfosist on Tue, 25 October 2011, 00:59:55
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I was wondering if I would have to take the whole switch apart to lube it. I currently have the White Lithium Grease that WASD recommended for the stabilizers would this work inside the switch?
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You don't need to disassemble anything. Just squirt the grease into the gaps between the keys and play a few Typeracer matches to work it in.
Seriously though, your question makes no sense to me. The grease for the stabilizers goes at the two points of contact between plastic and metal - one where the stabilizer connects to the keyboard in the "clips" and another where the stabilizer connects to the key. I'm not sure what you mean by "taking apart the whole key" or any of these shenanigans about lubing the "inside of the key."
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I want to lube the switch my bad...
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I think we need an expert to speak on this as I am green to the keyboard hobby, but I don't believe Cherry MX switches benefit from lube. If anything, it may hurt them.
It would be nice if the "plunger" thing (lol, don't know what else to call it) fit more tightly against the walls of the switch to reduce play in the keys. Ideally you would want to reduce play without increasing friction, which I suppose could be done by enlarging the plunger and adding lube or by devising some kind of slot mechanism. But now we are talking about the switch design and that goes way beyond merely lubing the switches.
My advice is to get these fanciful ideas of lubing the switches out of your head at once.
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I think we need an expert to speak on this as I am green to the keyboard hobby, but I don't believe Cherry MX switches benefit from lube. If anything, it may hurt them.
It would be nice if the "plunger" thing (lol, don't know what else to call it) fit more tightly against the walls of the switch to reduce play in the keys.
thats what I was wondering my self the only reason I considered this is that my Rosewills Cherry Blue switches feel scratchy compared to my WASDs Cherry Blue switches.
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Hmmm... that's interesting. Maybe I'm talking nonsense and WASD actually lubes their switches. I do know that they go the extra mile in the assembly process so it wouldn't surprise me if they did. If not, the difference is probably due to some other beneficial assembly procedure that WASD goes through. Adjusting the springs could have something to do with it...
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Ripster's sig (http://tinyurl.com/3hvz3hm) does mention opening up the keys and addiing lube but im wondering wether its possible to do without doing that
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Hmmm... that's interesting. Maybe I'm talking nonsense and WASD actually lubes their switches. I do know that they go the extra mile in the assembly process so it wouldn't surprise me if they did. If not, the difference is probably due to some other beneficial assembly procedure that WASD goes through. Adjusting the springs could have something to do with it...
I know he doesnt take apart the switches so if he did lube the switches it would either have been done at the factory or without opening the switch at his warehouse before he ships.
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So you CAN lube the switch. I stand corrected... interesting... makes me want to do it.
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So you CAN lube the switch. I stand corrected... interesting... makes me want to do it.
same here I just dont want to crack open a brand new board and desolder switches as the Rosewills are plate mounted.
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Ripster has a thread about lubing here (http://geekhack.org/showthread.php?22656-Gallons-of-Spooge-The-Official-Ripster-Lubricant-Experiment-Thread).
There was also some discussion in this (unrelated) thread (http://geekhack.org/showthread.php?23179-Confused-about-clears...&p=436305&viewfull=1#post436305) about lubing stems.
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TheProfist, did you end up lubing your Rosewill's switches? Where did you get your lithium grease?
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Any automotive store should have it, and few bucks will last you a life time if you use it on keyboard only.
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TheProfist, did you end up lubing your Rosewill's switches? Where did you get your lithium grease?
yes I ended up lubing. Not the switches though I lubed the stabilizers with the white lithium grease. I lubed the stabilizer inserts where the wire goes in, the wires where they snap into the board, and the board part where the stabilizer inserts slide. I got it in the automotive department of the local FleetFarm. I used a syringe to apply then a very fine flat paint brush to apply. I also sprayed a small amount of DeoxIT into the switch as recommended by ripster (http://tinyurl.com/3ubwkwv). I think I sprayed a bit too much into a few switches but ill see what happens when it dries out. I recommend getting the stuff off Amazon (http://tinyurl.com/3wcqdjm) you can also get a very small bottle from a local RadioShack if your in a hurry but it only does one full size keyboard.
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DeOxit, eh? I use that stuff to clean the controls on my vintage receiver...
They also make DeOxit with lube... look for Faderlube F100. Perhaps that would work if you are trying to grease the switches.
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Did the DeoxIT help your scratchy switches? I ask because my new Rosewill feels scratchy too.
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DeOxit, eh? I use that stuff to clean the controls on my vintage receiver...
They also make DeOxit with lube... look for Faderlube F100. Perhaps that would work if you are trying to grease the switches.
read that it is for plastic. Read more on them form this http://tinyurl.com/6epb2bq
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Did the DeoxIT help your scratchy switches? I ask because my new Rosewill feels scratchy too.
Will let you know once I do it to my Rosewill. I actually did this to my WASD while I had it apart because I got the board used and then bought new keys a stabilizers to nothing was lubed. They do feel smoother but I will let you know in a few days because like I said after using the DeoxIT I think that I got a bit too much in some of the switches and they are not clicking nearly as loudly as before. For the Rosewills I am waiting until I get all the parts in so that I only have to take the keys off once (ordered new keys and o-rings).
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I picked up a few DeoxIT products, D5, F5, F100. F100 is the ideal thing to use (besides opening up each switch and applying DeoxIT FaderGrease) and will work on any switch that doesnt have the slider that makes a click. For the switches that do have the slider F100 is too thick and doesnt allow the switch to click. F5 works fine and took the scratchiness out of my Rosewill Blues but the click is slightly less pronounced. I used F100 on my Rosewill reds which went from slightly scratchy to buttery smooth.
Also currently I am lubing the stabilizers with White Lithium Grease per WASD's advice (http://tinyurl.com/3su6ooc) but I did notice that CAIG makes some DeoxIT Grease in both Mineral and Lithium variates (pdf (http://tinyurl.com/6dqwcbr) of full DeoxIT line). Which of the available greases would be better? I believe WASD mentioned mineral grease having more longevity.
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This DuPont Teflon Non-Stick Dry-Film Lubricant seems good and cheap:
http://www.amazon.com/DuPont-Non-Stick-Dry-Film-Lubricant-DNS610101/dp/B003UTX0R8
It's based on isopropyl alcohol which is safe for plastics and dries fast.
From the DuPont site: (http://www2.dupont.com/Consumer_Lubricants/en_US/products/lubricants.html)
A unique dry-film lubricant that leaves a micro-thin, pure TeflonŽ fluoropolymer coating.
Goes on wet to penetrate, then sets up with a clean, dry, white micro-thin coating
Non-staining film bonds to most surfaces
Lubricates parts to reduce sticking and squeaking
Thin coating is excellent for tight tolerances and sliding tracks
Helps materials resist chemical contaminants or water
Acts as a protective coating for metal, plastic and rubber
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Check your keyboard again in a year. There'll probably be some gunk that the lube attracted. I ended up cleaning it thoroughly and trying again with Teflon spray which doesn't attract dust.
But, in all honesty, the switches don't feel smoother. Stick with the stabilizers, that'll save you a lot of pointless work.
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I used a product similar to that which sordna posted on the stems of two keyboards... not that there was any particular reason to do so, but I had buckets of stems already out (I was doing a swap of clear stems from a POS board that I had set up as ergo clears into a Filco, and reinstalling the original brown stems in the POS board) and figured it couldn't hurt.
I can't say whether it is due to the lube or the fact that I was using used stems, but the Filco definitely feels smoother than my Leopold with clears. The POS board feels nice too although I have been using my Noppoo (also with browns) at home, and the more I use the latter, the smoother it feels, so there might be something of a breaking-in process going on here too.
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On ripster's advice, I held off on lubing the switches of my new blue Rosewill, and it has indeed gotten smoother over time.
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I got DeoxIT Fader F5 (http://tinyurl.com/6w5bm4g) and FaderGrease (http://tinyurl.com/7m6dvju) today plan to use it on a Rosewill board with blues once I get the syringes (http://tinyurl.com/7eo5rjw).
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v519/TheProfosist/atHome/IMG_1042.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v519/TheProfosist/atHome/IMG_1085.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v519/TheProfosist/atHome/IMG_1089.jpg)
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Has anyone tried Deoxit F5 Spray and F100 Spray on red MX cherries? How do they compare? Not sure which one I should get.
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Check the lubrication thread in my subforum. I added some more pics. I'd go with F5.
I was thinking about the F5 too, but TheProfosist said the F100 is ideal (except for blues) and makes reds buttery smooth. I'd like a comparison from any folks who tried BOTH sprays on reds over a couple of weeks at least. I'm watching your subforum thread too.
BTW I ordered the thin Dupont Dry Lube, I'm going to try it on reds and some really ancient/scratchy browns of an old Kinesis.
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I have a StrongArm Brand penetrating oil / rust remover around the house, that I dripped into 2 of my Poker's red MX switches which were a bit noisy / frictiony, and they became smoother and quieter than the rest. That was over 2 months ago and the lube effect is still there. Some soaked onto the PCB but I wiped most of it. Dry teflon lube should be even safer. We shall see.
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so deoxit would be used to lube the actual switches itself???????????????? the piece that makes contact with the gold leaf inside?
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Good luck! I tested two DryLubes but haven't gotten around to posting pics yet. They seem to all be pretty comparable.
How do the dry lubes compare to wet ones like Deoxit ?
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Has anyone tried Deoxit F5 Spray and F100 Spray on red MX cherries? How do they compare? Not sure which one I should get.
Go with F100 for Reds more lube the better!
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Go with F100 for Reds more lube the better!
Which F100 did you use, the spray or the F100L needle dispenser (dropper) ? Trying to decide which would be better to use on mounted switches (I have no intention of de-soldering and opening them up).
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Which F100 did you use, the spray or the F100L needle dispenser (dropper) ? Trying to decide which would be better to use on mounted switches (I have no intention of de-soldering and opening them up).
I used the spray the dropper is significantly more expensive I believe. I also lube the stabilizers with FaderGrease using a dental syringe like the on EK has.
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When I put together the Ergo Clears for my DOX and Phantom I plan to clean off the parts using D5 then try the F100L when they are apart and see what kind of difference it makes.