geekhack
geekhack Community => Keyboards => Topic started by: Retox on Fri, 04 November 2011, 17:15:16
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This keyboard (NIB) came in the mail today... I have only spent about a half an hour typing on it so far, including this post. My only other mechanical keyboard is a silver label Model M, and I have to say that I infinitely prefer the cherry clear switches to the buckling spring. I'm still in the process of modding it to get the backlighting to work, so I will post a mor in depth review and pictures tomorrow.
One more thing.... I was skeptical about the cherry clears because I had never typed on any other MX switch, but now that they are under my fingertips, I feel confident that I made the right decision. Also, the cherry stabilizers are mushy like everyone says.
EDIT: Here are the pictures I took of the keyboard with additional information
Here it is as it looks on my desk. Not that the cable is very short and the coil is very strong, so my history book is keeping it in place until I can get a long ps/2 extender
[ATTACH=CONFIG]31066[/ATTACH]
It is definitely compact, and at a mere 12" wide, even more so than a filco/leopold tenkeyless. Here it is next to my behemoth model m.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]31077[/ATTACH]
One interesting (possibly a con) thing about this keyboard is that the profile of the keys is flat. Once you look at that pictures, you'll know what I'm talking about.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]31075[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]31076[/ATTACH]
As the title indicates, this board has plate mounted cherry clears that feel absolutely perfect. There is no ping whatsoever (for those of you concerned)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]31078[/ATTACH]
There is only one key on the board with stabilizers, due to the reduced size of the modifier keys, and it has cherry corp style stabilizers.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]31080[/ATTACH]
For those of you familiar with deck keyboards, the design of the keycaps will be familiar since TG3 is the parent company of Deck. They are a combination of double shot and dye sublimation. The outer rim of the top, and the sides of each keycap are standard (abs?) black plastic, while the inside is a separate piece of clear plastic that has had the negative space around the legend dye sublimated black.The result is a highly defined, highly durable product. I highly doubt that I will ever wear the legends off of this keyboard.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]31081[/ATTACH]
I highly recommend this board to anyone who is looking for a compact, high quality board with plate mounted cherry clears. Unfortunately it is difficult to find, but if you do come across one, they can be had for less than $80.
UPDATE: When I got this keyboard, there were no feet of any kind on the bottom of the board, and the button-head screws were the only contact points between the keyboard and the desk. Needless to say, this had to stop as my desk was getting scratched and the keyboard wouldn't hold still. NOt to mention, the hulk-strong coiled cord on this thing was about to pull it off my desk and launch it through my door.
The easy solution i found was to buy some of these "scotch self-stick rubber pads" on amazon (part number 754ES).
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32420[/ATTACH]
They were designed to keep microwaves from sliding around, and I have to say, they do the job FAR better than expected. Although the contact points have no adhesive on the outside, it is almost as if they stick to the desk like glue. I can pick the keyboard up no problem, but once I set it down, no horizontal force will move it. I have to pick it up off the desk and place it where I want. This is exactly what I wanted.
The only problem with this purchase was that i had to buy 6 packages with 3 sets of 4 pads in each. That amounts to 72 total pads. I have five unopened "12 packs" (3 sets of 4 in each) left that I can sell for the cost of shipping to anyone who is interested. Even if your keyboard has rubber feet on it, I guarantee that these will keep your keyboard in place better.
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Great that you love the new switches. I prefer the MX Clears to BS as well. You should post a guide to getting the backlighting to work. I know a few people would be very greatful who are trying to figure out how.
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Alright, will do.... though clickey might be better suited to it because he was the one who told me. It's a basic cut and splice operation. I'm planning on using some cable sleeving and heatshrink so that it doesn't look TOO ghetto-rigged.
Btw... I don't know who ran around starting the whole "clear springs are too stiff" mania, but I think that they provide the perfect amount of resistance. I can rest my hands on the keyboard without worrying about accidental keypresses, and when it's time to register a keystroke, it's a quick and gentle flick downwards. They definitely feel light to me coming off of a BS board.
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How do clears feel?
Do they require a lot of force? How are they compared to blues - actuating bump, noise, and force?
I'm considering getting a Leopold TKL Clears off EK, but I'm not sure if I'll like them. I'm looking for something a bit quieter than blues, and I kind of want clears but I'm not sure if they're fatiguing-ly heavy.
I'm reluctant to get it from EK because they don't give refunds.
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Well to be honest, answering your question is pretty difficult. I've never typed on blues, but as I said in the OP, I do own a buckling spring keyboard which has been to referred to as "manly blues". Yours was a multi-part quesiton so I'll answer it in parts.
The sound is incredible. I never thought that I could love the sound of typing, but the sound of the clears is immaculate. Since the tactil point is so pronounced and the springs require a bit of force, it's very difficult to bottom out. That being said, the only sound you're likely to hear in regular use is the sound of the actuation, or the little metal wires inside the switch hitting the stem. This sound is not clickly like blues or the model m, but it is very audible and it sounds a lot like a crisper, more precise rubber dome than anything. Very soft, gentle, and soothing.
That being said, the feel is NOTHING like any rubber dome I've ever typed on. There are two very noticeable stages in each keystroke, the distance between the top and actuation, and the distance between actuation and bottoming out. It is possible to fight past the actuation point, but your fingers will find that it's just easier to go with the flow of the switch and move on. The actuation point isn't like a brick wall, it's more of a crisp, plasticky suggestion from the key.
Before typing on clears, I thought that they would be as tiresome to type on as blacks, and that the tactile point would end up being annoying because of it's strength. Let me be the first to tell you that these opinions are grossly overexaggerated. Coming off of buckling springs, I was shocked at how little force was required to activate these switches. I don't know if everybody on here has weak little baby hands or what, but it's pretty much effortless. I shudder to think of red and brown switches. I can rest my fingers on the keys without accidental keypresses, but when it's time to press them, it's barely a little flick. It's my opinion that they require less force to depress than the Dell rubber domes in my school's library.
I would definitely recommend these to you. Just keep in mind that there is a small break in period. They will feel rough and gritty when you get them out of the box, but after typing on the a couple days, they are smooth, crisp, easy to depress, and divinely tactile. If rubber domes feel wet, mushy, and viscous, then cherry clears feel smooth, snappy,responsive, and (i'll say it one more time) crisp.
Since the leopold is a well built, plate mounted board like my TG3, I believe that you'll have a similar experience. Please post your thoughts if you do decide to get it.
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Well to be honest, answering your question is pretty difficult. I've never typed on blues, but as I said in the OP, I do own a buckling spring keyboard which has been to referred to as "manly blues". Yours was a multi-part quesiton so I'll answer it in parts.
The sound is incredible. I never thought that I could love the sound of typing, but the sound of the clears is immaculate. Since the tactil point is so pronounced and the springs require a bit of force, it's very difficult to bottom out. That being said, the only sound you're likely to hear in regular use is the sound of the actuation, or the little metal wires inside the switch hitting the stem. This sound is not clickly like blues or the model m, but it is very audible and it sounds a lot like a crisper, more precise rubber dome than anything. Very soft, gentle, and soothing.
That being said, the feel is NOTHING like any rubber dome I've ever typed on. There are two very noticeable stages in each keystroke, the distance between the top and actuation, and the distance between actuation and bottoming out. It is possible to fight past the actuation point, but your fingers will find that it's just easier to go with the flow of the switch and move on. The actuation point isn't like a brick wall, it's more of a crisp, plasticky suggestion from the key.
Before typing on clears, I thought that they would be as tiresome to type on as blacks, and that the tactile point would end up being annoying because of it's strength. Let me be the first to tell you that these opinions are grossly overexaggerated. Coming off of buckling springs, I was shocked at how little force was required to activate these switches. I don't know if everybody on here has weak little baby hands or what, but it's pretty much effortless. I shudder to think of red and brown switches. I can rest my fingers on the keys without accidental keypresses, but when it's time to press them, it's barely a little flick. It's my opinion that they require less force to depress than the Dell rubber domes in my school's library.
I would definitely recommend these to you. Just keep in mind that there is a small break in period. They will feel rough and gritty when you get them out of the box, but after typing on the a couple days, they are smooth, crisp, easy to depress, and divinely tactile. If rubber domes feel wet, mushy, and viscous, then cherry clears feel smooth, snappy,responsive, and (i'll say it one more time) crisp.
Since the leopold is a well built, plate mounted board like my TG3, I believe that you'll have a similar experience. Please post your thoughts if you do decide to get it.
Seriously, thank you for this post. Been scrounging the internet for a somewhat in depth review about clears, and this puts it very nicely. You've sold me, and I'm just gonna bite the bullet and go with the clears.
I've only had my Das S Blues since May '11, but I'm already sick of the product as a whole. If anyone is reading this and is planning on buying a Das, I advise you not get a Das.
And I also ask, where did you buy the TG3 BL82 and for how much?
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This is the second TG3 I've heard of a GHer buying with clears...
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No problem... I realize there is a lack of information available about clears right now, which is why I was hesitant to get one myself.
I bought it on ebay from this seller
http://geekhack.org/showthread.php?20607-Box-of-18-TG3-Cherry-MX-Clears
Apparently he was unable to sell all 18 at once (who would've guess it) so I snagged one. I got the DSLR charged finally so expect some pics added to the OP before the end of the day.
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Must be all the fumes from the solvent and lube experiments.
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Haha that's what I was thinking... but you said it, not me :)
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The guy's name on ebay is iesv. I bought one from him on ebay for about $70 shipped, although I messaged him about how much one would cost and he said he would be willing to do $64 per board shipped to AZ. He had 18 to begin with and it seems that a few people already have some.(Myself included)
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Yeah you got the details exactly right.... 70 bucks shipped for me, and I was the only bidder. How are you liking yours?
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Want!!!!!
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The quality of the board is great. I find the board to be a bit more tall than my other 8X keyboards( I mostly use the Noppoo Mini) but I'm sure if I used it on a daily basis for a while I would forget all about it. I was thinking of modding it to get the backlighting to work and selling it to one of my friends who wants a backlit mechanical for cheap but I might keep it. I recently sold my keyboard with MX Clears and I like to have at least one board around with each of the main switches.
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As soon as I get the materials together, I'll be modding mine as well.
Since this is the only cherry mx switch board that I have, I don't even notice the height difference. Personally I think it promotes good ergonomics since your wrists have to be elevated.
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Haha. Im not much for ergonomics or proper technique but if I were to use this on a daily basis I would use a wedge shaped wrist rest with it.
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I got one of these guys just for the occasion. Fits the bill perfectly and is much, much heavier than you would think.
http://www.amazon.com/Grifiti-Notebook-Wrist-Pad-Black/dp/B004DANDN4
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Update everyone.... I've been typing on these for about a week now and I think it's safe to say that they're reasonably broken in. The difference in feel between the unused function keys and the alphanumeric keys is insane. The broken in keys are beautifully smooth, while the unused keys are gritty and require more actuation force.
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Sounds great!
Shipping for the Leopold Clears starts tomorrow, so it will probably be here next week.
Unfortunately, I don't have an amazing camera to take pics. D:
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Don't worry.... I'm sure you aren't the only geekhacker to order one, and it seems like everyone on here has at least one amazing camera if not many. Definitely let me know what you think of the clears. The personality changes drastically after the break in. The feel much more solid and secure in their places now.
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Alright, so first impressions... (Leopold White TKL MX Clear)
Got home at 6PM PST, found it on my bed, got situated, etc. No pics or weighing or anything like that since I don't have the tools to. Now typing this about an hour later.
1. Came in a plain brown box wrapped in bubble wrap, inside a larger shipping brown box. Open it up, plastic shell on it, red printed Esc key (packaged in a tiny zip lock bag) inside, detachable USB to PS/2 converter (in a tiny sealed bag) and the mini-USB to USB cable (comes with a nice Leopold branded velcro-tie).
2. I took it out, put the red Esc key on and my black printed WASD from my Das. Key cap lettering looks a bit grainy, and has a few tiny tiny spots of white I can see. Backspace is printed is like "<-- Back space" compared to "<-- Backspace." Caps Lock is printed like "CapsLock" compared to "Caps Lock." Not really an issue but I would have liked it to not have that space between the two words. For the "-" and "_" key cap, there is nearly no difference between the two legends (not an issue to me, but worth pointing out). I'd alsolike to note that the LEDs for Caps Lock and Scroll Lock are somewhat bright, but nothing blinding. It would be nice if the white see-through part was a bit more tinted or the LEDs powered down a bit. The line bumps on the "F" and "J" key are really not defined; they're very small and it almost feels as if they aren't even there.
3. *Uses Cherry stabilizers. Easy key cap swapping.
4. Typing feel... I'm a bit underwhelmed. Maybe it's not what I expected, or maybe I need a week or two break-in period. They do feel kind of mushy (I'd honestly SLIGHTLY compare them to the HP rubber domes at my school computer lab, but those are absolutely atrocious), but the actuation point is very precise and easy to feel. On the plus side, it is easy to avoid bottoming out because of the force needed to depress the full distance. Fairly quiet due to not bottoming out.
5. The keyboard itself isn't as heavy as my Das S (it is TKL, but it still feels pretty light compared to my Das). It's durable for the most part. The rubber feet and kickstands (I don't use it though) are good. The feet are nice and grippy and actually minimize sliding. The ones on my Das S were okay. The board also features a 3 channel cable system, meaning you can route it to the left, right, or the regular straight ahead. There is also no Leopold branding (which I like) except on the underside of the keyboard (on the sticker). Clean, matte frame.
I think NKRO via USB to PS/2 works (I don't remember what program to use for testing, but I can type full length sentences while holding both shifts).
HELLO GEEKHACK, I'M TYPING FROM MY NEW KEYBOARD.
I HOPE YOU LIKE MY FIRST IMPRESSION REVIEW.
THE QUICK BROWN FOX JUMPS OVER THE LAZY DOG.
*EDIT: This board (FC200RE/AW) actually uses Cherry stabilizers (the one that is not the metal hinges and plastic tabs but the dummy MX switches) for all of the keys that use stabilizers. With that, I'd assume that all Leopolds (at least the newer waves) use Cherry stablizers. Sorry for the misinformation.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1147817/leopold-fc200r-is-rubbish#post_15392533
http://geekhack.org/showthread.php?15482-Leopold-Space-Bar
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With these, is there any way to know a clear from black mx board other than pulling a cap? (mfg date, etc?)
I'd love one of these with clears, but have no interest in mx blacks.
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These are rare they must have been a special order because they are only supposed to come with MX Black.
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With these, is there any way to know a clear from black mx board other than pulling a cap? (mfg date, etc?)
I'd love one of these with clears, but have no interest in mx blacks.
I'm not sure... I'd just contact the seller if I were you. It seems common sense to me that anyone selling mechanical keyboards on ebay would know that the type of switch is crucial to the sale.
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When I got this keyboard, there were no feet of any kind on the bottom of the board, and the button-head screws were the only contact points between the keyboard and the desk. Needless to say, this had to stop as my desk was getting scratched and the keyboard wouldn't hold still. NOt to mention, the hulk-strong coiled cord on this thing was about to pull it off my desk and launch it through my door.
The easy solution i found was to buy some of these "scotch self-stick rubber pads" on amazon (part number 754ES).
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32420[/ATTACH]
They were designed to keep microwaves from sliding around, and I have to say, they do the job FAR better than expected. Although the contact points have no adhesive on the outside, it is almost as if they stick to the desk like glue. I can pick the keyboard up no problem, but once I set it down, no horizontal force will move it. I have to pick it up off the desk and place it where I want. This is exactly what I wanted.
The only problem with this purchase was that i had to buy 6 packages with 3 sets of 4 pads in each. That amounts to 72 total pads. I have five unopened "12 packs" (3 sets of 4 in each) left that I can sell for the cost of shipping to anyone who is interested. Even if your keyboard has rubber feet on it, I guarantee that these will keep your keyboard in place better.
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4. Typing feel... I'm a bit underwhelmed. Maybe it's not what I expected, or maybe I need a week or two break-in period. They do feel kind of mushy (I'd honestly SLIGHTLY compare them to the HP rubber domes at my school computer lab, but those are absolutely atrocious), but the actuation point is very precise and easy to feel. On the plus side, it is easy to avoid bottoming out because of the force needed to depress the full distance. Fairly quiet due to not bottoming out.
I felt exactly the same way about my clears until I broke them in... just give it about a week before passing judgement. The brown have the same problem because they are very similar switches.
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Appreciate the impressions. How have you been finding the clear switches for gaming? Seems like the force ramping up after actuation could be annoying there.
Did you normally bottom out on buckling springs, Retox?
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Does anyone know if the seller has sold all of the boards? Or where I can find another one?
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Appreciate the impressions. How have you been finding the clear switches for gaming? Seems like the force ramping up after actuation could be annoying there.
Did you normally bottom out on buckling springs, Retox?
They were a little strange at first, but since it's difficult to accidentally bottom out I just press the keys to actuation so the tactility of the switch is sort of a non-factor. In that way, they're fine for gaming.... just as much as a blue or buckling spring is fine for gaming.
And yes... since the actuation point of buckling springs is very close to the bottom I do bottom-out on my model m. I don't, however, on this cherry clear board.
Does anyone know if the seller has sold all of the boards? Or where I can find another one?
They are not for sale on ebay anymore, but since he was trying to get rid of 18 at one point, and only two found their way to geekhack, I would try contacting the seller. His myworld page is here:
http://www.ebay.com/sch/iesv/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=&_trksid=p3686
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Sorry for resurrecting this thread but the same user has these keyboards back in stock ( with cherry mx clear switches NEW ) for $49 + shipping just an FYI.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/221216495944?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
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Sorry for resurrecting this thread but the same user has these keyboards back in stock ( with cherry mx clear switches NEW ) for $49 + shipping just an FYI.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/221216495944?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
its a nice keyboard, only 1 problem our PC's with no matter how much of a strong supply it has it wont power on the LED's :( and for some reason the led's on the ones with black switches does power on.
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It's basically a no branded Deck 82 keyboard with PS/2 I guess and w/o the LED working. At least the key layout is the same!
http://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=96
j.
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Half-saint did a switch and led mod on his but his was the black mx switch variant which work supposedly without any volt mod but don't quote me on that. I purchased the one with clear switches and will be swapping the leds for either white or blue once i figure out which leds It will require and maybe a volt mod.
Half-saint mod http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=14034.0
Deck cases that fit the keyboard ( $15 + $13 shipping ) http://www.deckkeyboards.com/index.php?cPath=22
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BL82s are 2KRO if that matters to anyone. However at 1/3 the Ice 82 price it's a very nice deal (and to get MX Clears, and the dyesubbed PBT backlit caps in a normal font).
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BL82s are 2KRO if that matters to anyone. However at 1/3 the Ice 82 price it's a very nice deal (and to get MX Clears, and the dyesubbed PBT backlit caps in a normal font).
Thanks, I forgot to mention that its 2KRO earlier.
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I think this is still cheaper than purchasing 82 mx clear switches ( if you can find them ) go for $1+ but you have to desolder them yourself.
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Thank you for the info! I'm looking for one TG3 and this looks like a great choice.
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I'm looking for the voltage mod alluded to across the few posts on DT and GH which reference the BL82...
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I think this is still cheaper than purchasing 82 mx clear switches ( if you can find them ) go for $1+ but you have to desolder them yourself.
Desoldering these well be a pain compared to a non-backlit keyboard (as you'll have to desolder the LED as well.)
The TG3 BL82 has a very nice construction. I believe the case is polycarbonate. The bottom plate sholud be aluminium and it and the mounting plate is grounded properly (against any wavelength longer than about 0.5 inches).
keycaps appear to be TG3's "smaller print" font (as opposed to the larger print ones on some BL82's. maybe a 10% difference)
looks like these are from late december 1998 from the date code.
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I'm looking for the voltage mod alluded to across the few posts on DT and GH which reference the BL82...
same. ;)
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I think this is still cheaper than purchasing 82 mx clear switches ( if you can find them ) go for $1+ but you have to desolder them yourself.
Desoldering these well be a pain compared to a non-backlit keyboard (as you'll have to desolder the LED as well.)
Sounds like a fun afternoon to me, it may be a pain for others but i love the smell of burning flux in the morning. :))
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I'm planning on modding mine as well XD. Going to take a while but I think it will be well worth it from the results!
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I wonder if anyone buys these BL82s together with the Deck version so that they can swap the caps onto the Deck-- that'd give them the Deck version's rollover combined with the more conservative font of the BL82.
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My TG3 Bl82 with Mx clears is on its way, so far i have purchased for this:
Already purchased:
100 3mm round flat top white led with 120-140 viewing angle
100 3mm round flat top blue led with 120-140 viewing angle
100 3mm round flat top uv/purple led with 120-140 viewing angle
100 3mm round flat top green led with 120-140 viewing angle
100 55g Korean springs
100 62g Korean springs
200 white stickers
Still need to purchase:
some king of lubricant for the springs and sliders
103 + 205 I hear is a good combo?
Might purshase:
Clear Deck casing
Longer PS/2 cord
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My TG3 Bl82 with Mx clears is on its way, so far i have purchased for this:
Already purchased:
100 3mm round flat top white led with 120-140 viewing angle
100 3mm round flat top blue led with 120-140 viewing angle
100 3mm round flat top uv/purple led with 120-140 viewing angle
100 3mm round flat top green led with 120-140 viewing angle
100 55g Korean springs
100 62g Korean springs
200 white stickers
Still need to purchase:
some king of lubricant for the springs and sliders
103 + 205 I hear is a good combo?
Might purshase:
Clear Deck casing
Longer PS/2 cord
I'd definitely recommend the longer cord. If this BL82 is like the MX Black version I got from WhiteDuck, it comes stock with a short coiled cable - sitting on my desk it would hardly reach my PC on the floor. These were sold for use in cop cars, so they only had to reach from front seat to the dashboard area. I'm using the keyboard at work plugged into a docking station, but even there I had to move it close.
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My TG3 Bl82 with Mx clears is on its way, so far i have purchased for this:
Already purchased:
100 3mm round flat top white led with 120-140 viewing angle
100 3mm round flat top blue led with 120-140 viewing angle
100 3mm round flat top uv/purple led with 120-140 viewing angle
100 3mm round flat top green led with 120-140 viewing angle
100 55g Korean springs
100 62g Korean springs
200 white stickers
Still need to purchase:
some king of lubricant for the springs and sliders
103 + 205 I hear is a good combo?
Might purshase:
Clear Deck casing
Longer PS/2 cord
I'd definitely recommend the longer cord. If this BL82 is like the MX Black version I got from WhiteDuck, it comes stock with a short coiled cable - sitting on my desk it would hardly reach my PC on the floor. These were sold for use in cop cars, so they only had to reach from front seat to the dashboard area. I'm using the keyboard at work plugged into a docking station, but even there I had to move it close.
Yeah, that is what i was thinking. I am still looking into sourcing a longer a cord and trying to figure out if its possible to do 6kro on this tg3 board. The older deck 82's had the same problem but the new ice doesn't, so i know it is possible to fix it. Just need to know if they used another controller since i don't think they replaced the board or soldered any diodes to it from the pictures I have seen. It might be an easy fix, will have to to see, I will try contacting TG3 and Deck to see what they have to say about it.
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My TG3 Bl82 with Mx clears is on its way, so far i have purchased for this:
Already purchased:
100 3mm round flat top white led with 120-140 viewing angle
100 3mm round flat top blue led with 120-140 viewing angle
100 3mm round flat top uv/purple led with 120-140 viewing angle
100 3mm round flat top green led with 120-140 viewing angle
100 55g Korean springs
100 62g Korean springs
200 white stickers
Still need to purchase:
some king of lubricant for the springs and sliders
103 + 205 I hear is a good combo?
Might purshase:
Clear Deck casing
Longer PS/2 cord
I'd definitely recommend the longer cord. If this BL82 is like the MX Black version I got from WhiteDuck, it comes stock with a short coiled cable - sitting on my desk it would hardly reach my PC on the floor. These were sold for use in cop cars, so they only had to reach from front seat to the dashboard area. I'm using the keyboard at work plugged into a docking station, but even there I had to move it close.
Yeah, that is what i was thinking. I am still looking into sourcing a longer a cord and trying to figure out if its possible to do 6kro on this tg3 board. The older deck 82's had the same problem but the new ice doesn't, so i know it is possible to fix it. Just need to know if they used another controller since i don't think they replaced the board or soldered any diodes to it from the pictures I have seen. It might be an easy fix, will have to to see, I will try contacting TG3 and Deck to see what they have to say about it.
Let me know if you find longer cords. The other option would be to convert it to mini/micro-USB and get one of those nifty Micmic cables.
I'm probably going to get one of the TG3s with MX Clears, I live near the seller and he's indicated I can pick it up in person to save on shipping. So I'll have one TG3 for a daily driver, and one for a project board. ;D
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I was looking into the mini-usb conversion but got sidetracked, once I figure out which way I will be going I will post it here.
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Link (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=42981.0) to a work in progress 12v to 5v mod for this keyboard.
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It's actually really easy... I still have the instructions for the mod in my inbox:
1) Cut the wire sheath near the connector (make sure you dont cut/damage any cables)
2) The green and blue wires are the ones that power the lighting, so pull them out (these will need to be cut to pull out)
3) Find a 4pin molex female connector and cut the yellow and black cable next to it (these are the 12V and ground cables)
4) Solder the blue wire from the keyboard (this is the 12V) to the yellow wire of the 4pin molex connector
5) Solder the Green wire from the keyboard (this is ground) to the black wire next to the yellow wire on the molex (also ground)
6) Seal up all open wiring, and make sure there is no exposed copper
7) Make sure computer is off and unplugged before plugging in molex cable
Plug the PS2 into the keyboard slot and the 4pin molex female into an open 4pin molex male power cable (from your computer's power supply).
9) Test keyboard, should be working.
You can also cut and resolder the entire cable to extend it, like I did, but this is much more complicated and more work.
I used all the clear stems to make an ergo clear QFR... so much better. The biggest problem with this keyboard is the lip on the front is huge, so your wrists will scream without a rest
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Thanks for the info but i am trying to mod the keyboard so that it doesn't require another external power source (12V) for the lights to function. I want the keyboard leds to work with a standard 5v ps/2 cable just like the cherry mx black version.
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Retox can you please fix your bbcode img link in your signature, my OCD is kicking in and i want to fix it. :p Unless you are an evil person and prey upon those with this disease, that is why you left it like that. :))
just add a / to the front of the last img so it looks like this [img]http://i.imgur.com/W7pTn.png[/img] (http://i.imgur.com/W7pTn.png)
and your image will show up. Thank your for your cooperation. :p