geekhack
geekhack Community => Keyboards => Topic started by: f16pilotjumper on Tue, 03 January 2012, 11:11:20
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I am looking for detailed photos of the membrane of the Sidewinder X4.
I've googled around but no luck...
Anyone have any? Or I'll buy one and take it apart.
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I am trying to figure out if it is possible to fold/cut the X4 membrane to replace the membrane in an M2 chassis...
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you need to improve your googling skills. first result: http://inspirefellows.wordpress.com/2010/07/24/sidewinder-x4-cleaning/
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How good of photo do you want? I think this is pretty good:
(http://inspirefellows.files.wordpress.com/2010/07/cimg2697.jpg)
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That's really just the rubber domes... I need to see the traces in the key "switch" membranes.
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I am trying to figure out if it is possible to fold/cut the X4 membrane to replace the membrane in an M2 chassis...
It's an interesting idea, but I think it would be non-trivial to make work. Definitely warranty voiding, and not for the timid...
That said, let me offer some thoughts on how you might make this work. First, the X4 uses a printed resistor in series with each switch, These are the black lines. Although the values aren't very critical, I suggest you don't try to fold or cut through them. If you must cut somewhere, you can cut the silver traces BUT you will need to reestablish the connection somehow. You won't be able to solder to the traces, so I would suggest attaching your jumper wires with conductive epoxy. Another trick I've used is to solder a wire to a small strip of copper tape with conductive adhesive, and then just press this on. This is a lot quicker than waiting for the epoxy to dry.
The X4 uses sealed membranes for a reason - it prevents humidity from entering and shifting the resistor values. If your keyboard is going to end up in a hot, humid place, you probably want to seal any cuts you make. However, you don't want to seal them completely - if you do, you can inflate and deflate with changes in barometric pressure. So you want to leave small vents. If you look carefully, you can see that these are designed into the membranes.
Anyhow, I hope this is helpful...
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Paul - thanks for the suggestions! The M2 is a lot easier to get to the membranes on then a regular Model M (no rivet removal and bolt mod required) and I have one on hand that seems to have a borked controller... But there isn't a lot of room in the chassis. I think there is a lot larger chance of success with a full-size model M. Would yield NKRO and a nice modern USB controller.
Of course the optimal thing would be to have a custom replacement membrane set printed, but I suspect licensing issues on such a small run of parts would preclude that.
If I were Unicomp and I wanted to invest in upgrading some of their products instead of just building the same thing that has been built for 20 years, I would license this technology and integrate it into the Model M design.
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If I were Unicomp and I wanted to invest in upgrading some of their products instead of just building the same thing that has been built for 20 years, I would license this technology and integrate it into the Model M design.
lol @ the idea of Unicomp improving their products.
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The IBM buckling spring patent expired in 2006, so in theory someone else could build such a design...
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yeah I wouldnt mind seeing someone else build new Model M's with TKL