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geekhack Community => Keyboards => Topic started by: captain on Thu, 15 March 2012, 14:48:49
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Howdy y'all,
So, I bought this IBM Model M from a GHer the other day, and I finally got my "blue cube" adapter so I can use it on my iMac. It looks like all the keys send the right codes (tested below), except for one annoying problem: SPACE BAR doesn't "click". It just mashes down with the slushy sound of plastic rubbing plastic, no buckling spring CLICK. Isn't the space bar supposed to click like all the other buckling springs?
Obviously the space bar not clicking is a physical problem. Any advice y'all can offer me would be appreciated. I have removed the space bar, and pulled the M key, which clicks fine, and put the M key on the space bar's mount. Still no click. There is a spring in there, and it looks pretty much like all the other springs. I shook the keyboard gently, and tilted it while blowing air in the space bar hole. Still no joy. I do not see any easy way to access the inner workings. It looks like the entire keyboard has to be disassembled to get to the switches.
Thanks!
key test:
The quick brown fox jumped over the lazy dog. 1234567890-=[]\';/.,
tabnotab. hrmm - tab fails (but only in this forum screen)
CAPSLOCK
Right Shift
numpad: 123456789/*-+
numlock fails
scroll lock and pause adjust screen brightness
F1-12
PrintScreen = F13 apparently
BackSpace worki
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open the space bar and lightly pull on the spring a couple of times, should fix it
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None of these guys know what they're talking about, even Ripster ;)
You don't need the chopstick of death since your spring is seated correctly. And given the spring is the same height as all the other springs, don't stretch the spring either.
Buckling spring keycaps have to be seated correctly to register the click. I've been cleaning my buckling spring keyboards for years, and probably 1 out of 6 times I re-attach a keycap it becomes unseated correctly. Simply rinse and repeat and un-attach the key and re-attach it. Keep doing it until its necessary and carefully remove the keycap each time so you don't wear down the notches.
For some reason spacebars are way harder to seat. Keep trying buddy.
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Didn't you assume the new Leopold keys were going to be dye subs?
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Assuming it's not a faulty spring, re-seating a key on a Model M can sometimes resolve no-click keys, especially those such as the space bar. It's worth a shot before attempting to replace a spring, in this case anyway.
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STFU Donny.
http://geekhack.org/showthread.php?25167-No-Shift-Sherlock-New-Leopolds-Thick-PBT-Keys-Sherlock-Observations&p=479302&viewfull=1#post479302
"the walrus Dude..."
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Take hella's advice.
Try it with the small key several times. Try inserting the key with the board horizontal, diagonal, vertical, etc, to make the spring flop in different directions as the sleeve slides over it.
Take off a few keys and look at how the springs flop in other holes, and how they are centered on their bases. If the bad one is off-centered or otherwise cock-eyed at the base, or does not move around like the others as you tilt the board, you may have no choice but to take it apart.
A bolt-mod is a great idea, but save it for last if you are timid.
Last, you never said whether the spacebar actually works, I assume it does not. If it works, live with it, and save the project for another day.
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By his post, I assume the space bar works, it just doesn't click. Consider his key test (toward the bottom of his post) which has spaces.
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After re-reading his post, I doubt re-seating the space bar will work, considering he's already tried swapping it out with the M key to no avail:
"I have removed the space bar, and pulled the M key, which clicks fine, and put the M key on the space bar's mount. Still no click."
Hence, the OP is looking at a spring swap.
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Why is every post on GH and DT an ego sandwich? Remove the emotion, answer the question with pride in your accuracy. That's all that's needed.
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I have one or two keys on my workhorse Model M that consistently don't click after taking them apart unless I do this:
- remove the key
- stand the keyboard on it's back
- check that the spring is laying on the back of the guide (give it a little flick if it isn't)
- slide the key back on
Then they work fine. Assuming that the space bar registers and the spring is still straight, it should work. There is a little bump in the key that the spring is supposed to sit in. Worn springs sometimes don't make it in there. Also check if there are any plastic burrs inside of the key where the spring lives.
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I have one or two keys on my workhorse Model M that consistently don't click after taking them apart unless I do this:
- remove the key
- stand the keyboard on it's back
- check that the spring is laying on the back of the guide (give it a little flick if it isn't)
- slide the key back on
Then they work fine. Assuming that the space bar registers and the spring is still straight, it should work. There is a little bump in the key that the spring is supposed to sit in. Worn springs sometimes don't make it in there. Also check if there are any plastic burrs inside of the key where the spring lives.
I can also confirm this works. Springs need to be seated with the keycap even if the spring is attached to the damper correctly.
Edit: In the event your spring isn't attached to the damper correctly you'll need to do the chop stick of death. You can check to see if your springs attached correctly by very LIGHTLY pulling on the spring. If it doesn't budge, it's on firm. Also, make sure the spring is at equal height to other springs as a short spring will cause the key to not click.
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Thanks y'all for all the good advice. It looks like it's a damaged spring.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]44521[/ATTACH]
Does anyone have a source for new springs, or a couple you could toss in an envelope to me?
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You can order new springs and hammers from Unicomp. Carefully twist the spring off of the new hammer and back onto the old using a tool like the chopstick that Ripster mentioned.
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I've also resurrected bent springs by carefully straightening them as much as possible and then playing around with their orientation until you find one where it both works and clicks.
In the end you are better off work a new spring.
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Thanks. I wish that I had thought of that this morning when I ordered some PBT caps from them for the dye experiment. Unicomp's shipping charges are outrageous unless you combine items. I wrote to the seller, now that I know the problem. Maybe he will send me a spring. :-)
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Try putting a WTB thread for a spring in the classifieds. They're dirt cheap and you're bound to find someone with leftovers hanging around.
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I'm sending you two springs from an old board. You'll see them next week.
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Hooray! It'll be fun to type on a Buckling Spring keyboard again. :-) Thanks y'all!
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FYI, they were definitely clicking on the keyboard I removed them from.
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KylJoy is da man! :-D
I really like these Buckling Springs. I may have to downgrade Cherry MX Blues to second place... or even third! The Topres are growing on me. I wish I could get my old ALPS Complicated board working again, so I could really compare them all side by side.
Anyway, thanks y'all for helping me get my IBM Model M fully functional. FWIW, a matchstick whittles down just as well as, but a lot easier than, a chopstick.
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open the space bar and lightly pull on the spring a couple of times, should fix it
Thanks a lot, pulling on the space bar spring fixed the similar problem I've had with the 1992 IBM Model M I've received via mail today (no click sound but also the space key was very picky in when it would accept the keypress and when not).