geekhack
geekhack Projects => Making Stuff Together! => Topic started by: metalliqaz on Thu, 23 August 2012, 21:32:26
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Has anyone tried to bring some of their plastic to a local professional? I'm thinking places like body shops or custom detailers.
I'd like a nice high-gloss color case but I know I'd screw it up if I attempted it myself. I'm sure a pro could do it with their eyes closed. Of course it would probably cost a few hundred (at least) but it would be a unique piece, that's for sure.
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I doubt they would charge a few hundred, and if they do, I'll paint cases for $100 :D
I would try a body shop, you might get a few odd looks but who cares.
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I'd rather send my case over to MM to get painted than pay hundreds for a "professional" paint job. Gonna consider doing it when I have money :D
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I'd rather send my case over to MM to get painted than pay hundreds for a "professional" paint job. Gonna consider doing it when I have money :D
What's MM?
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I'd rather send my case over to MM to get painted than pay hundreds for a "professional" paint job. Gonna consider doing it when I have money :D
What's MM?
MagicMeatball on the forums, my go-to modding assistant-bro
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You can ask for people who is playing Gunpla aka Gundam model ;)
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There has been some unsettling rumors about MagicMeatball floating around.
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Honestly you can get fairly professional looking results with a spray bomb. I'd suggest practicing on something else first, maybe a flat piece of scrap aluminum or something, to get the "touch." But I bet I could spray bomb a case and make it look like it was professionally done.
tips:
1) sand it smooth. Prep is key. If you are going for a smooth, glossy finish, use a sanding block on the flat bits. Probably 320 wet/dry paper used wet if you are using Krylon or touch up paint from the auto parts store. If you are using vinyl dye or model paint go smoother, probably 400-600 grit minimum. 1000 or 1500 may even be required with vinyl dye; I've never tried it. Keep it wet! If you start to see "pills" of material, you're not using enough water, and those pills will leave marks that may show through the paint.
2) Post-sanding but pre-spraying prep is also important. Wipe down with Windex and a microfiber towel, then use a tack rag or painter's tape to pick up any lint that may be left behind. Again, it'll show through.
3) Paint on a good dust free surface. Cardboard ain't it! Either rig something up to hang the part, or else if you are painting on a flat surface, set the part elevated on a coffee can or something so that dust isn't kicked up off the surface onto your part. If you paint with the part laying flat on cardboard, you're almost guaranteed to have that happen.
4) follow the directions for recoating on the spray can. A few light coats will give a better finish than one heavy one. The first few coats can just be "dust" coats, and let them flash before recoating. If you try to do too much too soon and there's any contaminants on the surface, you'll get fisheye big time. I'd recommend using a sandable automotive primer and then wet sanding again if you really want a good glossy finish, THEN use your color coat (only if you are using paint and not vinyl dye though.) Make sure that the primer is 100% dry before wet sanding (see "pills of material" above.)
5) If you really hork up, DOT 3/4 brake fluid will strip paint from most plastics without harming the plastic. (a tip from having built plastic models back in the day.)
6) If you've used paint, and want a super gloss, get some clear enamel or epoxy (if such is available) spray to finish it off. Either spray it while the color is still tacky but flashed or else let the color dry completely (at least a couple days, possibly a week,) and wet sand with 1000 grit before spraying the clear.
7) if you really want the ultimate in gloss and durability you will have to at least do the clearcoat with a spray gun using a two part paint with a hardener. I am not that hard core... I'll do that for a car but not a keyboard. Your opinion may differ. If you do do this might as well wait for the clear to dry completely (a month or so) then wax it. I like Nu-Finish, but YMMV.
Hope this helps...
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Honestly you can get fairly professional looking results with a spray bomb. I'd suggest practicing on something else first, maybe a flat piece of scrap aluminum or something, to get the "touch." But I bet I could spray bomb a case and make it look like it was professionally done.
tips:
1) sand it smooth. Prep is key. If you are going for a smooth, glossy finish, use a sanding block on the flat bits. Probably 320 wet/dry paper used wet if you are using Krylon or touch up paint from the auto parts store. If you are using vinyl dye or model paint go smoother, probably 400-600 grit minimum. 1000 or 1500 may even be required with vinyl dye; I've never tried it. Keep it wet! If you start to see "pills" of material, you're not using enough water, and those pills will leave marks that may show through the paint.
2) Post-sanding but pre-spraying prep is also important. Wipe down with Windex and a microfiber towel, then use a tack rag or painter's tape to pick up any lint that may be left behind. Again, it'll show through.
3) Paint on a good dust free surface. Cardboard ain't it! Either rig something up to hang the part, or else if you are painting on a flat surface, set the part elevated on a coffee can or something so that dust isn't kicked up off the surface onto your part. If you paint with the part laying flat on cardboard, you're almost guaranteed to have that happen.
4) follow the directions for recoating on the spray can. A few light coats will give a better finish than one heavy one. The first few coats can just be "dust" coats, and let them flash before recoating. If you try to do too much too soon and there's any contaminants on the surface, you'll get fisheye big time. I'd recommend using a sandable automotive primer and then wet sanding again if you really want a good glossy finish, THEN use your color coat (only if you are using paint and not vinyl dye though.) Make sure that the primer is 100% dry before wet sanding (see "pills of material" above.)
5) If you really hork up, DOT 3/4 brake fluid will strip paint from most plastics without harming the plastic. (a tip from having built plastic models back in the day.)
6) If you've used paint, and want a super gloss, get some clear enamel or epoxy (if such is available) spray to finish it off. Either spray it while the color is still tacky but flashed or else let the color dry completely (at least a couple days, possibly a week,) and wet sand with 1000 grit before spraying the clear.
7) if you really want the ultimate in gloss and durability you will have to at least do the clearcoat with a spray gun using a two part paint with a hardener. I am not that hard core... I'll do that for a car but not a keyboard. Your opinion may differ. If you do do this might as well wait for the clear to dry completely (a month or so) then wax it. I like Nu-Finish, but YMMV.
Hope this helps...
So. Much. For a Keyboard.
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Eh, you may think so, but honestly, I've got a ghetto rigged electrolytic derusting tank on my back porch, whenever I take something metal off one of my cars for maintenance unless it looks pristine I hit it with oven cleaner, then into the tank it goes, then primed, then painted before it goes back on. Makes working under the vehicle soooo nice after you've already done a couple jobs. So long story short, I have my painting system pretty well down, there's often something cookin' on the back porch... which reminds me, there's some Jeep sway bar brackets out there now that are probably ready for another coat.
Yeah, you can buy a used car from me :) Your mechanic will thank you.
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Honestly you can get fairly professional looking results with a spray bomb. I'd suggest practicing on something else first, maybe a flat piece of scrap aluminum or something, to get the "touch." But I bet I could spray bomb a case and make it look like it was professionally done.
tips:
------ 8< ------
Hope this helps...
Wow dude, nice write up. I've never painted anything before but I may be able to pull it off. No way I'd ever get a real paint gun though. I assume by 'spray bomb' you mean a can of spray paint. Before I can even consider it, I have to find a place to do it. As an apartment renter, my landlord would flip out if I started painting stuff in the basement.
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Honestly you can get fairly professional looking results with a spray bomb. I'd suggest practicing on something else first, maybe a flat piece of scrap aluminum or something, to get the "touch." But I bet I could spray bomb a case and make it look like it was professionally done.
tips:
------ 8< ------
Hope this helps...
Wow dude, nice write up. I've never painted anything before but I may be able to pull it off. No way I'd ever get a real paint gun though. I assume by 'spray bomb' you mean a can of spray paint. Before I can even consider it, I have to find a place to do it. As an apartment renter, my landlord would flip out if I started painting stuff in the basement.
I'm soldering in my apartment basement >_>