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geekhack Community => Keyboards => Topic started by: Erasmus on Fri, 31 August 2012, 15:47:56
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I've recently destroyed the Mini-USB connection on two RK-9000REs and I need to replace one. The other I didn't void the warranty on and will be RMAing it with Newegg and use it at work. At home I use my computer while sitting in an armchair with wooden arms, I have a .5" by 12" plank which I use as a typing desk and mousing surface. I have to lift it off the arms when ever I want to get up which of course causes much more strain on the connection, especially the RK-9000's non channeled Mini USB plug. The other one stopped working when I unplugged the Mini USB from the back several times while testing to see if my soldering on the first one worked, which it didn't.
So, now I need to replace my home keyboard. At home I mostly do gaming, except its MMOs so there is fair bit of typing as well, I'd say I'm at a 80% gaming/20% typing ratio. I'm used to using the ten key so I'd prefer a full sized keyboard. I like the reds, but sometimes I feel like its too easy accidentally press a key, so I'm going to try blacks on this new keyboard. I also need a cording solution which will stand up to the abuse what I'm going to put on it, which my my problem. Most of the boards I've seen are either channeled plugs which connect to a Mini USB which I'm not sure would hold up, but I've never had a keyboard with a channeled cable (only captive cables and the RK-9000s) so I was hoping for better informed opinions.
My budget is $100.
Thanks for your input.
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The Rosewill is notorious for mini-usb breakage. The QuickFire Rapid would probably be good since the channels absorb stress that would otherwise be put on the connector, of course, ignoring your line " I'm used to using the ten key so I'd prefer a full sized keyboard." which makes no damn sense. The QuickFire also comes in a Cherry MX black version. Filcos use captive cables, but I've never heard about any breaking. You could probably get a used TKL for $90-100, and a used full size for $100-120.
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When I say I'm used to using the ten key I mean the number pad (which resembles a ten key calculator) so I don't want a Ten Key Less keyboard, I guess the use of the words 'full sized' were incorrect.
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When I say I'm used to using the ten key I mean the number pad (which resembles a ten key calculator) so I don't want a Ten Key Less keyboard, I guess the use of the words 'full sized' were incorrect.
Ah, makes sense now. I'm a bit slow today. Have you considered a USB mechanical numeric pad?
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You could just repair your rosewill. Post repair it should no longer be susceptible to breakage.
If you're not going to fix it, you should sell it because there are plenty of people on here who will be willing to buy it since the fix is relatively simple.
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Yeah I think people just dump hot glue on the connector to secure it in place. I think fixing it would be the best idea, Rosewill keyboards are the best money for quality IF you can manage to fix the connector. Otherwise for full size keyboard with mx black under $100, I think the only one clicks to me at the moment is SteelSeries 6GV2
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Welcome to Geekhack!
I have sometimes wondered why an expensive mechanical keyboard that goes the extra mile in so many areas skimps on a simple thing as a USB connector. :rolleyes:
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Welcome to Geekhack!
I have sometimes wondered why an expensive mechanical keyboard that goes the extra mile in so many areas skimps on a simple thing as a USB connector. :rolleyes:
+1
AND many keyboards force you to finagle the USB cord into this tiny little cavity where you're almost forced to snap the cord into place at a 30+ degree angle. This, in turn, applies unreasonable pressure to the connector and jeopardizes it's long term integrity. If it weren't sad, it would be funny.
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Welcome to Geekhack!
I have sometimes wondered why an expensive mechanical keyboard that goes the extra mile in so many areas skimps on a simple thing as a USB connector. :rolleyes:
AND many keyboards force you to finagle the USB cord into this tiny little cavity where you're almost forced to snap the cord into place at a 30+ degree angle. This, in turn, applies unreasonable pressure to the connector and jeopardizes it's long term integrity. If it weren't sad, it would be funny.
+1
I was impressed with the packaging and quality and included accessories of my first Ducky Shine, but when it came to squeezing the USB cable into the small hole hidden underneath the keyboard ... grrr. Without knowing about the weak USB connector on some keyboards, I was worried already about breaking the port as you do have to force the cable in at an angle.
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Welcome to Geekhack!
I have sometimes wondered why an expensive mechanical keyboard that goes the extra mile in so many areas skimps on a simple thing as a USB connector. :rolleyes:
AND many keyboards force you to finagle the USB cord into this tiny little cavity where you're almost forced to snap the cord into place at a 30+ degree angle. This, in turn, applies unreasonable pressure to the connector and jeopardizes it's long term integrity. If it weren't sad, it would be funny.
+1
I was impressed with the packaging and quality and included accessories of my first Ducky Shine, but when it came to squeezing the USB cable into the small hole hidden underneath the keyboard ... grrr. Without knowing about the weak USB connector on some keyboards, I was worried already about breaking the port as you do have to force the cable in at an angle.
Haha! That's what kept running through my mind at first as well. Ironically, even with this cavity, I think we've had (1) RMA ever for a disconnected USB port on a Ducky. The small cavity isn't a Ducky-only issue either, there are a ton of other brands with the same design. I don't get it...
The trick is to snap the cord itself into place in the 'cord holder' (for lack of a better term) and then squirm the USB cable forward into the USB port. It doesn't seem all that practical while you're doing it, but it works well in terms of not potentially damaging anything.
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Perhaps the Plum 96 (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=33288.0) is a perfect fit for you, blacks, has 10key but a more compact design, and it is wireless which people have reported actually works alright. It might solve all your problems...
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Haha! That's what kept running through my mind at first as well. Ironically, even with this cavity, I think we've had (1) RMA ever for a disconnected USB port on a Ducky. The small cavity isn't a Ducky-only issue either, there are a ton of other brands with the same design. I don't get it...
The trick is to snap the cord itself into place in the 'cord holder' (for lack of a better term) and then squirm the USB cable forward into the USB port. It doesn't seem all that practical while you're doing it, but it works well in terms of not potentially damaging anything.
That is good news for Ducky :)
I tried to bend the cable slightly at the small plug end to try to fit the plug in, then straighten the cable and slot it into the 'cord holder' at the same time as the 'cord holder' seemed a bit tight (as it is probably intended to be, to avoid accidental cable disconnections).
Detachable cable - an interesting idea. Apart from a few really old non-PC keyboards, I think every other keyboard I have does NOT have a detachable cable.
Is that a "benefit" of a mechanical keyboard? Seems to be a pretty common thing for mech keyboards.