Unfortunately I can't help you with your spacing issue, but a couple questions about the acrylic fill:
First, were you going to be cutting it from single pieces and stacking it up? If not, how were you going to me making it?
Second, what colours were you looking to do?
And here's hoping you can get the assistance you need, it looks promising as the full aluminum keyboard case, while desirable is stupid expensive.
I have made a couple of designs like this. I don't want to be too discouraging, but I stopped making that type because the thick middle part gets rather expensive if you want it in one piece If you use 4 separate sides, the mating surfaces will show at the edges. If you cut them at 45 degrees, you will still get a joint line at the edges. I wanted rounded corners, but I suppose those joints will not be visible if you make the corners sharp.
In his designs, the top is 1/8", so perhaps that would be sufficient to countersink screws.
If you are planning on 1/16 aluminum for the top and the bottom where will be no place to put the threads for your screws, especially if you don't want to be able to see the screws from the top, meaning the tapped hole can't be a threw hole.
Also, you are saying acrylic to eliminate CNC costs (I think). How do you plan on cutting the area out for the keys?
I'm confused (as usual).
John
I think that I heard that CM storms have an extra controller on the bottom? I'm not sure how different they are.No, The CMstorm controller is in the same location as filco. It's the TT meka G1/WASDkeyboard that has it on the bottom. IT does, however, have a USB-inlet board on the bottom. This could be relocated, though.
Unfortunately I can't help you with your spacing issue, but a couple questions about the acrylic fill:
First, were you going to be cutting it from single pieces and stacking it up? If not, how were you going to me making it?
Second, what colours were you looking to do?
And here's hoping you can get the assistance you need, it looks promising as the full aluminum keyboard case, while desirable is stupid expensive.
It would indeed be stacked up from single pieces. I'll have to check what thicknesses of acrylic I can get my hands on. I know that the local hardware store near me has some, but the selection is probably not that vast, and they only have clear acrylic. I'll be taking a peek there tomorrow.
If I do start getting these made in large quantities I'll have to find a better supplier for it and then see what thicknesses they have to determine how many layers of acrylic would be needed and what colors are available. Litster managed to get a fine selection of colors, so if I can't find anywhere close to me, I could always order some from wherever he got it in the US.
I would love the idea to make a "generic" metal case that will fit all TKL models (filco, CM quickfire, leopold, etc).
would something like this work for the quickfire rapid??
Suggestions for how to make it cheaper in images, especially the last pic. Labeled layers A-D starting from the bottom. Layer B could be interchangeable and be the only piece that needs to be changed to support more PCBs. It determines the clearance below the PCB. Layer C determines the clearance above the PCB. I think Layer A can have extra holes or even hexagonal holes to fit nuts which would simplify the installation and hide the nut. This is probably the cheapest way to make it, especially if you cut the sides as in the last pic. Everyone should be aware that every feature you add then adds to the cost, removing a layer to remove a line on the side, countersinking the screws on the top plate, making a layer in one piece to avoid the vertical line at the corner etc.
It was my intention to show that the split corners could make it cheaper since it allows for the parts to stack nicely on a sheet. Not much thought went into the rest of the design.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Ttte1.png)
A small space for the controller would be great as to not have to add that height across the entire board, as has been done before in similar designs.
It was my intention to show that the split corners could make it cheaper since it allows for the parts to stack nicely on a sheet. Not much thought went into the rest of the design.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Ttte1.png)
A small space for the controller would be great as to not have to add that height across the entire board, as has been done before in similar designs.
Can I get a close up of your corner? I'm looking at designing something similar
I bet you're about to have a fair number of people want this with round 2 of phantom PCBs getting started soon.
I bet you're about to have a fair number of people want this with round 2 of phantom PCBs getting started soon.There's going to be a round 2 for the phantom!? How much trouble would it be to make this case winkeyless? :D I'd imagine with the three part design just a different top?
I bet you're about to have a fair number of people want this with round 2 of phantom PCBs getting started soon.There's going to be a round 2 for the phantom!? How much trouble would it be to make this case winkeyless? :D I'd imagine with the three part design just a different top?