I was looking at photos of the Race and, in most of them, it looks like the caps lock led isn't activated. If it is a faulty bulb in the Q, you could switch it with the caps lock one since it'd be rarely used anyways?
Muahahahahaha.... ha... haa...ha...............
So I've been sayin' it for years: "Where would you find a -matching- replacement led when your backlite keyboard breaks?"
Best of luck, but it's probably Not happening.
Now' you'll just have to live with the gimped board forever.
Everyday you'll tell yourself and pretend like nothing's changed
Remaining ever delusional
But the truth claws at you around each corner
The world loses it's luster
The sky endlessly grey
Your happiness is dim and flickering just like that aged crested LED.
To most of us at Geekhack, We would buy a batch of 500 leds and replace Every Single One.
Muahahahahaha.... ha... haa...ha...............Oh, new depressing metal song idea.
So I've been sayin' it for years: "Where would you find a -matching- replacement led when your backlite keyboard breaks?"
Best of luck, but it's probably Not happening.
Now' you'll just have to live with the gimped board forever.
Everyday you'll tell yourself and pretend like nothing's changed
Remaining ever delusional
But the truth claws at you around each corner
The world loses it's luster
The sky endlessly grey
Your happiness is dim and flickering just like that aged crested LED.
To most of us at Geekhack, We would buy a batch of 500 leds and replace Every Single One.
from what i have read, it is the capacitors failing on the Race, not leds themselves.That's interesting. What capacitor is it?
so it should be an easy fix, and I know several people have done this.
Muahahahahaha.... ha... haa...ha...............
So I've been sayin' it for years: "Where would you find a -matching- replacement led when your backlite keyboard breaks?"
Best of luck, but it's probably Not happening.
Now' you'll just have to live with the gimped board forever.
Everyday you'll tell yourself and pretend like nothing's changed
Remaining ever delusional
But the truth claws at you around each corner
The world loses it's luster
The sky endlessly grey
Your happiness is dim and flickering just like that aged crested LED.
To most of us at Geekhack, We would buy a batch of 500 leds and replace Every Single One.
I'm curious as well. I know for sure that the LEDs themselves are still working. I had half a row of what I thought were "dead" LEDs come back to life (at full brightness too) for a few days, but they went back to being dead.
I took out the PCB and all, but I couldn't find out a solution. If it is just replacing some capacitors, that should be an easy fix. Could you link us any info on those capacitors Cindori?
Here are photos of the PCBs:Show Image(http://i.minus.com/iCNqAcRfxrcae.JPG)Show Image(http://i.minus.com/ibeWQkz8pWiwxS.JPG)
Um.. you don't need a multimeter. It won't tell you anything in this case.
The resistor is to Protect the led from overcurrent, but it isn't actually necessary. So just desolder the resistor under the broken switch and briefly bridge the gap, and see if the led reaches full sustained brightness. It's unlikely that you'll kill the LED.
I'm curious as well. I know for sure that the LEDs themselves are still working. I had half a row of what I thought were "dead" LEDs come back to life (at full brightness too) for a few days, but they went back to being dead.
I took out the PCB and all, but I couldn't find out a solution. If it is just replacing some capacitors, that should be an easy fix. Could you link us any info on those capacitors Cindori?
Here are photos of the PCBs:Show Image(http://i.minus.com/iCNqAcRfxrcae.JPG)Show Image(http://i.minus.com/ibeWQkz8pWiwxS.JPG)
I think he meant "Resistors" I don't see why a keyboard would need caps, because micro-controllers are very low noise these days and power from the PC is already clean.
I have some dim LEDs too. This is my first mech board in my life :(
That's why we call "Race" an OEM board?
I'm curious as well. I know for sure that the LEDs themselves are still working. I had half a row of what I thought were "dead" LEDs come back to life (at full brightness too) for a few days, but they went back to being dead.
I took out the PCB and all, but I couldn't find out a solution. If it is just replacing some capacitors, that should be an easy fix. Could you link us any info on those capacitors Cindori?
Here are photos of the PCBs:Show Image(http://i.minus.com/iCNqAcRfxrcae.JPG)Show Image(http://i.minus.com/ibeWQkz8pWiwxS.JPG)
I think he meant "Resistors" I don't see why a keyboard would need caps, because micro-controllers are very low noise these days and power from the PC is already clean.
He might have meant resistors, I seem to recall the Koreans losing that in translation when they said capacitors. As to the rest of your post, I count 10 capacitors on the microcontroller board in the 2nd picture posted. Can't live without caps! Welcome to Electronics 101. ;)
I just noticed that there are 2 capacitors on the main PCB at the upper-right corner of the first picture I posted. It's inbetween the ESC and F1 parts of the PCB.
To test the capacitors, would a multimeter be harmful to use even if the board is disassembled and discharged? If it is, I have access to some electrical labs at school, so I could test it out using a capacitor tester.
I just noticed that there are 2 capacitors on the main PCB at the upper-right corner of the first picture I posted. It's inbetween the ESC and F1 parts of the PCB.
To test the capacitors, would a multimeter be harmful to use even if the board is disassembled and discharged? If it is, I have access to some electrical labs at school, so I could test it out using a capacitor tester.
LOL noob. to test caps, you use the multi meter on both ends, use the ohms setting, and if the cap is working, then it should blip and then return to zero. If it's busted, then the multimeter will give you a reading.
I just noticed that there are 2 capacitors on the main PCB at the upper-right corner of the first picture I posted. It's inbetween the ESC and F1 parts of the PCB.
To test the capacitors, would a multimeter be harmful to use even if the board is disassembled and discharged? If it is, I have access to some electrical labs at school, so I could test it out using a capacitor tester.
LOL noob. to test caps, you use the multi meter on both ends, use the ohms setting, and if the cap is working, then it should blip and then return to zero. If it's busted, then the multimeter will give you a reading.
That much I know, but I've always thought that method was not really the best way to test it out. I don't have any ESR devices nor do I feel the need to remove them just to test it out. Just because a capacitor can be tested with a multimeter, it doesn't show that it is running in spec or may even have leaks, which in turn could be the reason why most of my "dead" LEDs are still functional, but super dim.
I am a noob when it comes to circuits, as I've only learned the basics of them, but that's why I'm here to learn.