geekhack
geekhack Community => Keyboards => Topic started by: shogrran on Mon, 10 September 2012, 16:08:42
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Well need help. Correct me if I'm wrong
List of items I THINK I need.
1. Fine sand paper
2. Some white or gray (which is better?) spray paint
3. Some black (or whatever color i'd like to finish with) spray paint. (should i paint it gloss? semi gloss? matte?) Which is a better finish for keyboards in terms of how long will it last v.s. wear and tear?
4. Tape to cover those screw holes
So... what else would i possibly need and can you guys also give me other tips. I'll be painting my keyboard soon. Probably this weekend when I got the free time.
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Go to NAPA or another auto parts store and get "Dupli-Color" which is a vinyl paint and dye.
It sticks very well, I used several light coats. Make sure the surface is very clean.
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Fohat.digs' post could be misinterpreted. Dupli-color is a brand that has many different types of paint. They make something called "Vinyl Dye", yes. Vinyl dye will seep into the pores of the plastic and change its colour, not be a layer on top of the plastic. Best choice, if you can find it. Vinyl dye is the only option that retains the grainy texture of the plastic. However, you can only dye something in a darker hue than it was before.
If you can't find Vinyl Dye, then use Krylon Fusion without a primer. It was made for plastics.
You could get a very good finish with many hobby spray paints, but it will be more work. Gloss, matte or semi-gloss is up to your preference, it does not matter that much. If you use hobby spray paint, then you should first paint it with a "primer" of the same brand and series. A primer can be better at several things that a paint is not: It covers blemishes very well, it adheres well (there are different primers for different types of surfaces), it can be sanded, most primers are matte grey so make imperfections stand out more, etc.
You could also top off with a "clear coat". If you have painted a matte base coat, then you can make it glossy with a gloss clear coat and vice versa. Clear coat makes the surface more durable.
I recommend that you not only put masking tape on parts that you don't want painted, but that you disassemble the keyboard so that you only paint the case.
Always paint outdoors or in a well-ventilated garage or similar. Paint can create dust, that settles everywhere in the room. Fumes are not fun.
Use plenty of used newspapers, plastic bags or something else underneath the thing you are painting.
You should also prop it up on something or to let it hang from something because if it lies flat on newspaper, the paint will run and stick to it. Paint usually does not stick to plastic bags or plastic tape, though.
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Also, usually if you are painting, it is recommended that you wetsand the plastic first. Starting with coarser grains, down to at least 800 grain.
Paint should go on in several light coats. Too heavy and the paint will drip and be uneven.
Other painting threads have advised that you should let it dry for a good week without touching it for the paint to get really hard.
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I have used the vinyl paint and unlike spray paint it seems to soak in. Use light coats until you get what you want.
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While I was searching I watched a video that did the sanding and then buffing AFTER painting. Is this a good way? (i guess not... i wont have a way to buff it as I don't really have a drill -- manual buffing maybe? but that will be uneven)
When it comes to color I was thinking of doing metallic and then top coating it with clear so the metallic particles wont rub off. Is this a good idea for keyboards? Or will it just defeat the purpose since it'd be quicker to ruin pretty much like the original finish of the keyboard where my hands and corrosion ate away at the finish?
One more thing. I'm only painting the top cover of the keyboard. Is it ok for me to use the keyboard as a naked keyboard while the top dries? Or does the top cover serve a hidden purpose aside from just being the cover.
I'll paint it outside but can the drying the paint be done inside? I plan on hanging the cover on a wire hook. Paint a thin coat first and then take it inside to dry. I don't want to leave it outside as I live in a building/condo and there are crap tennants who throw stuff out their window from the higher floors which may hit my keyboard.
I heard somewhere/from someone that it's a bad idea to be painting when its just after rainy weather -- something about humidity and ****... is that true?
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Buffing with polishing compound after painting is when you want a supersmooth or supergloss finish. I think that most of the time it is overkill. If you are happy with the finish, then there is no need to sand or buff it.
Naked keyboard? Well, don't drop any metal on the circuit board. I have lost a harddrive from a coin falling into a computer with the case off. Some electronics have shielding in their cases, but keyboards usually don't.
Freshly painted stuff can smell for a few days. After it has dried for a couple hours, I usually put it in a paper bag and keep on the balcony near the wall so it doesn't get hit by rain or I place it to dry in the bathroom which is one of the places in the apartment where there is a vent and I can close the door.
I don't live in a super-humid climate, so I have not had that much problems with humidity. In general, it will dry better in dry, sunny weather.
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So that means I really do need to consider the weather. I live in a tropical country very close to the equator. With that said we have pretty humid climate. It just stopped raining a few minutes ago. So that means I have to wait for a better weather to do this.
Thanks for the heads up on that.
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You can plastic dip the keyboard case and the plastic can be removed with damaging the case
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Do not paint outside, unless there is absolutely ZERO wind. That's pretty unlikely.
When even small dust gets blown onto the paint, it makes an unsmooth bump.
I also recommend plasti-dip, That is what I used for my bling board. but the final surface is far more delicate that people make it out to be. But it's definitely more handle friendly than standard paint without a clear coat.
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Naa.. i was thinking about that plasti dip that everyone was talking about. And I saw a thread here about it in the early days of people trying to get rid of the cmstorm logos
But I wont go for it. I think it kinda defeats one of the main purpose of why I'll be painting my cmstorm which is to get rid of that uneven color caused by corrosion on the surface of the keyboard by my hands and sweat. I think if the plasti dip is something easily removable then it would definitely be corroded again in a few months time.
I'd look for that vinyl dye that the other guys mentioned but I highly doubt that is available here in my country (not readily available. I have to go to a specialty paint shop to get it and that isn't really a good idea given that I'm just painting a keyboard)
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I have had good luck with this stuff.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dupli-Color-Dye-Vinyl-and-Fabric-Coating-Flat-Black-11-oz-Aerosol-Ea-HVP106-/330789763926?forcev4exp=true (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dupli-Color-Dye-Vinyl-and-Fabric-Coating-Flat-Black-11-oz-Aerosol-Ea-HVP106-/330789763926?forcev4exp=true)
It does not look like these guys ship international, but someone might. I don't have time to keep looking.
Make certain that the surfaces are very clean and dry, then spray several light coats. I am using a board with Dupli-Color that is a year old with no problems (I am very careful, granted) which received at least 4 very thin coats, maybe 6, and I only waited 20-30 minutes between coats.
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I have encountered pretty much the biggest hurdle.... the only paints available is acrylic. None that are specific to plastic. I found primer though. Gray primer. But then as I said only acrylic...
Should I continue or is it a bad idea to paint plastic with acrylic paints.