Anyone have one they don't want anymore?
I'm buying the camo, not the Filco brah ^___^
Honestly, I'm now thinking of doing a vinyl wrap on a CM storm.
hmmmmmmm
You can also check out hydro dipping/graphics.
**** it wood case CM stormdude yes. ive been thinking about a wood case for my poker but unfortunately i dont have the proper tools right now. something either based on a hollowed out piece of wood or nice decorative joints, dark stain on the sides and slightly lighter on the front and back pieces. mmmmmmm.
**** it wood case CM stormdude yes. ive been thinking about a wood case for my poker but unfortunately i dont have the proper tools right now. something either based on a hollowed out piece of wood or nice decorative joints, dark stain on the sides and slightly lighter on the front and back pieces. mmmmmmm.
Vinyl wrap always looks crap around the corners.
do you do much joinery?**** it wood case CM stormdude yes. ive been thinking about a wood case for my poker but unfortunately i dont have the proper tools right now. something either based on a hollowed out piece of wood or nice decorative joints, dark stain on the sides and slightly lighter on the front and back pieces. mmmmmmm.
Check it out brah :p
http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=35407.0
do you do much joinery?**** it wood case CM stormdude yes. ive been thinking about a wood case for my poker but unfortunately i dont have the proper tools right now. something either based on a hollowed out piece of wood or nice decorative joints, dark stain on the sides and slightly lighter on the front and back pieces. mmmmmmm.
Check it out brah :p
http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=35407.0
me too. a lot of the rounded routed poker cases look really good but it doesn't seem like there is much in the way of square jointed stuff. that could be done with metal as well for really cheap now that i think about it.
Camo CM Storm from spray paint.Show Image(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v369/Steve41184/20120803_161626-1.jpg)
If you have questions hit me up. I can tell you how I did it. Pretty easy.
a finger joint might be nice for wood. for metal it would have to be either a mitered joint or a rabbet joint. a mortise and tenon would be cool with metal if you tapped the tenon and counter sunk the hole on the mortise for a tight, flush fit. and you could do that kind of finishing work without CNC (would take a bit longer but it would still be a lot cheaper). It could work for wood too but I think you'd want to put a threaded metal eyelet into the tenon piece for strength instead of screwing directly into the wood.me too. a lot of the rounded routed poker cases look really good but it doesn't seem like there is much in the way of square jointed stuff. that could be done with metal as well for really cheap now that i think about it.
I think a box/finger joint (1/8" fingers) would look the best. A single dovetail would look a bit funky
A tip to make sure your Multicam paint jobs (should you decide to do one yourselves) look like Multicam and not just a nice camo using Multicam colors:
The thing I need to stress on these paint jobs is that it is not like most other camo where you work with solid colors and color areas. Multicam has fades in both the background as well as layer areas going in the opposite directions in fades. THEN it has some solid brown and tan/cream areas on top of the double layer fades. If you don’t take your time and make sure you do the fades and transitions it will not really look like Multicam, but a standard camo in Multicam colors.
Another tip would be to make sure you keep all your patterns on a horizontal line. Multicam has a right and wrong orientation, just like Tiger Stripe and even some digital camo. It will work in any orientation, but BEST when it is oriented horizontally.
The background fades/transitions are done in a vertical or slightly diagonal as are the next layer of fades/transitions within camo shapes. But the shapes (for the second layer of fades) and “blobs” go in a horizontal layout over the two layers of fades and shapes. I hope that made sense. To better see this, look at the Multicam fabric I placed the mask on. It should all click for you.
All of this is very important to pull off the look. And I took a LONG time just studying the fabric to see how it all worked (as did Wookie and Dbug who do marker paint jobs).
I'll do that if that's what it comes to. I'm on the fence about the V2 WASD, a leo 700 and this camo Filco
a finger joint might be nice for wood. for metal it would have to be either a mitered joint or a rabbet joint. a mortise and tenon would be cool with metal if you tapped the tenon and counter sunk the hole on the mortise for a tight, flush fit. and you could do that kind of finishing work without CNC (would take a bit longer but it would still be a lot cheaper). It could work for wood too but I think you'd want to put a threaded metal eyelet into the tenon piece for strength instead of screwing directly into the wood.me too. a lot of the rounded routed poker cases look really good but it doesn't seem like there is much in the way of square jointed stuff. that could be done with metal as well for really cheap now that i think about it.
I think a box/finger joint (1/8" fingers) would look the best. A single dovetail would look a bit funky
I'll do that if that's what it comes to. I'm on the fence about the V2 WASD, a leo 700 and this camo Filco
*Ahem* All of the above.
Thanks for the tip swagi don't like the look of the dowel through though... interrupts the grain patter with a different grain. if not a bolt with a threaded eyelet embedded into the tenon, perhaps a metal pin/dowel? you could even use a nail gun or something to reduce the surface area, and then mix a bit of wood glue, stain and sawdust to fill in the holes. i just like the idea of discrete parts that can be disassembled and flat packed :Da finger joint might be nice for wood. for metal it would have to be either a mitered joint or a rabbet joint. a mortise and tenon would be cool with metal if you tapped the tenon and counter sunk the hole on the mortise for a tight, flush fit. and you could do that kind of finishing work without CNC (would take a bit longer but it would still be a lot cheaper). It could work for wood too but I think you'd want to put a threaded metal eyelet into the tenon piece for strength instead of screwing directly into the wood.me too. a lot of the rounded routed poker cases look really good but it doesn't seem like there is much in the way of square jointed stuff. that could be done with metal as well for really cheap now that i think about it.
I think a box/finger joint (1/8" fingers) would look the best. A single dovetail would look a bit funky
I could do a through mortise and tenon and use a dowel to make it a "drawbore mortise and tenon". It's a joint that doesn't even really need glue and doesn't need any metal hardware (I avoid any hardware/screws if possible). However with the poker cases I would be doing, I don't think the wall thickness would be all that thick.Show Image(http://www.craftsmanspace.com/sites/default/files/free-knowledge-articles/mortise_tenon_joint_drawboring.jpg)
What do you want for it?
What do you want for it?
Oh, I'm not looking to trade for it. I can let it go for $140 shipped? Let me know!
they are browns. and i have a white fc700r with browns too