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geekhack Community => Keyboards => Topic started by: Xerobasix on Sat, 06 October 2012, 22:22:55
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My reds have a slight friction to them, like very fine grains of sand in the switch that I can feel when I slowly depress it. Anyone else have a similar issue/paranoia?
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When I tried reds on someone else's board, yes, a little bit. But no problem with blacks
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I don't have anything to add, but I was promised a cloud of boobs.
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To be fair, you were promised a subject related to a cloud of boobs. I'd oblige you further with a picture, but I'm sure that goes against some forum rule :P
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To me the reds are great for gaming. I'm starting to get used to the browns for typing, as I seem to make less errors on typeracer with them.
About the grittiness... That's the plastic rubbing on plastic. Not much can be done there.
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To be fair, you were promised a subject related to a cloud of boobs.
And so you fulfilled (I only found the cloud of boobs reference after I posted (of course).
I'd oblige you further with a picture, but I'm sure that goes against some forum rule :P
Or would it:
(http://media.treehugger.com/assets/images/2011/10/mammatus_clouds_colors.jpg)
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Never felt grittiness on any of my reds or ghetto reds or blacks but the right lubrication makes a world of difference. You should check out this thread: http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=34332.0
Reds + Lube = Silky Smoove
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To me the reds are great for gaming. I'm starting to get used to the browns for typing, as I seem to make less errors on typeracer with them.
About the grittiness... That's the plastic rubbing on plastic. Not much can be done there.
Yeah, I gamed all day on blues then went to reds... fingers thanked me. It's been a lazy Saturday :D
Never felt grittiness on any of my reds or ghetto reds or blacks but the right lubrication makes a world of difference. You should check out this thread: http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=34332.0
Reds + Lube = Silky Smoove
I might have to do that... I'm not sure how effective lube will be without taking apart all the switches. I guess there's another project in my future. :(
edit: @ tj ... I did the clouds. Just need some censorship black bars and it would look completely legit :D
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The grittiness goes away
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I have 2 boards with reds and one is scratchier than the other. The poker is scratchy while my filco is smoother. I'm not sure if this is due to pcb vs. Plate mount or different batches of switches getting different quantities of factory lube, or even wear (I've had the poker longer than the filco). I'm guessing its a combo of these factors, but one thing I know for sure is that lubing them with krytox eliminates the annoying scratchiness!
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I never understood the idea that the surface that a switch is mounted on, can change the grittiness of a key stroke. How can being mounted on a plate affect the internals of the switch? : /
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I thought the more used they are the less scratchy they'd be? Lube definitely helps though.
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I never understood the idea that the surface a switch is mounted on can change the grittiness of a key stroke. How can being mounted on a plate affect the internals of the switch? : /
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Maybe you're right; my poker with blues was VERY scratchy when I first got it, and it smoothed out quite a bit. Still scratchy though and the gpl-103 I have is too viscous for blues and reduces the click, I need some thinner gpl-100 for that board.
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I never understood the idea that the surface a switch is mounted on can change the grittiness of a key stroke. How can being mounted on a plate affect the internals of the switch? : /
its a leverage issue. Pcb mounted switches are supported at a lower point of the switch which allows them to flex from side-to-side when you don't press them perfectly perpendicularly, which increases the friction between the stem and housing.
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I was actually thinking that same thing as I was typing that out. makes total sense.
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About the grittiness... That's the plastic rubbing on plastic. Not much can be done there.
Wrong. (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=34332.0)
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Holy crap, all that for a keyboard? Nothing could posess me to take apart my Ducky switch by switch just to add lube.... it types great already lol.
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^ You have no idea of how much greater it can be.
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I watched the video that was posted in MM's thread... but it was for PCB mounted switches. Is it possible to do something similar with plate mount, or do they have to be desoldered to lube?
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You have to desolder in most cases.
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Holy crap, all that for a keyboard? Nothing could posess me to take apart my Ducky switch by switch just to add lube.... it types great already lol.
You only say that because you haven't tried a lubed switch :)
It's a world of difference.
I watched the video that was posted in MM's thread... but it was for PCB mounted switches. Is it possible to do something similar with plate mount, or do they have to be desoldered to lube?
For PCB mounted switches, unless you have a phantom pcb/plate, you will need to first desolder the switches from the PCB to disassemble the switch housing.
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This is turning into quite the project indeed. I think I need to buy a practice board... (it's really quite easy to justify buying more keyboards isn't it?)
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Holy crap, all that for a keyboard? Nothing could posess me to take apart my Ducky switch by switch just to add lube.... it types great already lol.
You must be new here.
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Guilty as charged. I admit, I've spent a good deal of money on these things as well though heheh
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http://www.caig.com/
Best lube ever... I use it for everything...
F5 and D5 are great for cleaning.
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http://www.caig.com/
Best lube ever... I use it for everything...
F5 and D5 are great for cleaning.
wow were you around when i was doing lubing before gh went down as thats the same products i use at least when i want to lube without openning the. Switch which does help some but not nearly as much.
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http://www.caig.com/ (http://www.caig.com/)
Best lube ever... I use it for everything...
F5 and D5 are great for cleaning.
wow were you around when i was doing lubing before gh went down as thats the same products i use at least when i want to lube without openning the. Switch which does help some but not nearly as much.
I use White lithium grease.
Faders seem to be a bit less messy, but do they work as well?
Yes I was haha, Just got back into the keyboarding thing lol.
gotcha well i can help u out in reguars to those lubes just use their fader greese on my spacebars stabilizers today.
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http://www.caig.com/ (http://www.caig.com/)
Best lube ever... I use it for everything...
F5 and D5 are great for cleaning.
wow were you around when i was doing lubing before gh went down as thats the same products i use at least when i want to lube without openning the. Switch which does help some but not nearly as much.
I use White lithium grease.
Faders seem to be a bit less messy, but do they work as well?
Yes I was haha, Just got back into the keyboarding thing lol.
gotcha well i can help u out in reguars to those lubes just use their fader greese on my spacebars stabilizers today.
wow my bad that was supposed to say:
Well i can help you out in reguards to those lubes. I just used their fader greese on my spacebar stabilizer today.
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I never understood the idea that the surface a switch is mounted on can change the grittiness of a key stroke. How can being mounted on a plate affect the internals of the switch? : /
its a leverage issue. Pcb mounted switches are supported at a lower point of the switch which allows them to flex from side-to-side when you don't press them perfectly perpendicularly, which increases the friction between the stem and housing.
After putting stickers on my poker, I no longer think the excess flex on a pcb-mount board is coming from the mount. Stickered PCB-mount switches feel very much like plate mounted switches, if not a bit more stable (though the bottom out still feels different of course). I am now convinced that the instability of pcb-mount switches is primarily due to the play between the top and bottom sections of the switch housing. A plate hugs the switch at the point where the top and bottom of the switch housing come together, adding stability to this weak point.
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After reading this thread, I'm curious about trying to lube up the reds on my filco MJ2 TKL. However, having never really taken apart a keyboard to this degree, I'm curious--is there a quick way to identify whether desoldering is required just by looking at a board? Or do you have to know the construction of each individual board and remember whether they're PCB or plate mounted?
I'm trying to get one of bpiphany's programmable PCBs so there's some desoldering in my future anyway (and indeed this is probably the answer to my question in this particular case) but if there's a way to lube up my switches before I desolder everything to replace the PCB that would be nice.
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Shine a light, look for PCB under the caps... or pull a cap and look.
Filco's are all plate and require desoldering.
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You can tell by just looking at it. Plate mounted boards have a metallic plate (which is a given) between the switches and the PCB. You can see it by taking off a key cap.
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You can tell by just looking at it. Plate mounted boards have a metallic plate (which is a given) between the switches and the PCB. You can see it by taking off a key cap.
Ah, so if it wasn't plate mounted, when I take off a cap I'd just be looking at the PCB itself? This is good to know. Next step is figuring out the disassembly!
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After reading this thread, I'm curious about trying to lube up the reds on my filco MJ2 TKL. However, having never really taken apart a keyboard to this degree, I'm curious--is there a quick way to identify whether desoldering is required just by looking at a board? Or do you have to know the construction of each individual board and remember whether they're PCB or plate mounted?
I'm trying to get one of bpiphany's programmable PCBs so there's some desoldering in my future anyway (and indeed this is probably the answer to my question in this particular case) but if there's a way to lube up my switches before I desolder everything to replace the PCB that would be nice.
Unless you are looking for a project, you could just squirt some in the crack :D
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After reading this thread, I'm curious about trying to lube up the reds on my filco MJ2 TKL. However, having never really taken apart a keyboard to this degree, I'm curious--is there a quick way to identify whether desoldering is required just by looking at a board? Or do you have to know the construction of each individual board and remember whether they're PCB or plate mounted?
I'm trying to get one of bpiphany's programmable PCBs so there's some desoldering in my future anyway (and indeed this is probably the answer to my question in this particular case) but if there's a way to lube up my switches before I desolder everything to replace the PCB that would be nice.
Unless you are looking for a project, you could just squirt some in the crack :D
yep this is what I did initially as well.