geekhack
geekhack Community => Keyboards => Topic started by: Warren on Thu, 25 October 2012, 16:07:50
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Hey everyone,
I acquired this keyboard about a year ago and it has been working perfectly up until a few days ago. Nothing has really changed and I didn't spill anything on it.
The problem is that sometimes the keyboard will be perfectly fine when typing and then sometimes it will give me multiple key inputs.
Examples are when I press "m" I also get "," or when I press "j" I also get "k" pushed as well. Those seem to make a little sense since these keys are next to each other.
The weird ones are when I press "h" the "F6" key is also pressed or "y" will also give me "]"
It doesn't happen all the time, but it seems to happen intermittently throughout the day. One minute it will be fine, the other it will just give me extra inputs.
Also don't know I tested on another computer and the same thing would happen as well. Addition information is that I use a PS/2 to USB converter that I picked up over at clickeykeyboards with this keyboard.
What could be the possible problems that are occurring and what would my options be if I wanted to attempt to fix this. Thanks for any help!
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First thought is to try straight PS2 if you can - rule out the adapter (just as part of the process).
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I assume you're using QWERTY-positions. The [M][,] and [J][K] make it sort-of sound like it's a matrix issue. You might have to get a new membrane from unicomp. Perfect time to do a bolt-mod as well.
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Make sense none of the keys are stuck
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what would my options be if I wanted to attempt to fix this. Thanks for any help!
Buy a 1391401 (cheap and readily available, same generation of manufacture) on eBay, swap the internals, and sell it for scads of money?
Or would that be cheating? You could describe it as "refurbished" I suppose.
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Does anybody know for sure whether the industrials are any different internally, and/or whether the case is just another skin variation?
If it is just the case, do a whole mix-and-match with superior internals during a bolt-mod, and have a REALLY great board!
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Does anybody know for sure whether the industrials are any different internally, and/or whether the case is just another skin variation?
I got an Industrial Model M from a group buy a bit more than a year ago or so and there was an issue: one of the key would not work correctly. I simply swapped the innards with one of my other regular M (I've got 8 Model Ms or so).
To me a beige shell and an industrial shell are exactly the same besides the color (and shells from Ms having either ANSI or ISO innards are identical AFAICT).
As a comparison the "fake" industrial shells sold by Unicomp are a tiny bit different than the real industrial shells if I recall correctly but it doesn't change anything: you can still swap any shell as you wish.
So if I was OP and if it's a matrix issue, I'd simply buy a cheap working Model M, a 7/32" nut driver and swap the innards :cool:
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Hey all,
Thanks for the replies. I looked up what a bolt-mod was and it looks like something I would definitely be taking a look into sometime in the future. I may just buy a temporary keyboard for now for when I have time to
swap the innards and perform a bolt mod.