geekhack
geekhack Marketplace => Interest Checks => Topic started by: The_Beast on Sun, 28 October 2012, 19:09:08
-
It's been alluded to many times so here's in IC to get a better idea of what you guys want. It should start sometime after the poker plate group buy but hopefully not before the final designs of the GH60 are done since I'd like to run those plates at the same time.
Anyways fill out the form please ^____^
Fancy IC form (https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/viewform?formkey=dFdmck1QRWpreXlLa0Q1eEVfeTZrX3c6MQ)
Responses (https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AupmMn7qWaZ8dFdmck1QRWpreXlLa0Q1eEVfeTZrX3c&output=html)
-
Why is poker on there again? Aren't you running that plate right now? I'm only interested in a plate for Pure. And I'm currently still getting hole dimensions for all TKL plates. Just submitted my form.
-
Well, the Phantom Plates we can get ourselves, as well as the Poker plate if you post the DWG. The GH60's designs we can all get from the GB (eventually) or ourselves as Komar said that the GH60 is open to the community. So, it seems logical that the only plates left are the Mini and Tenkeyless. The ISO and ANSI 125 and 150 would need new PCB's to be used, yes? Thus, I don't think we need those, at the current moment. Just my thoughts though, do as you wish Beast!
Also, one last thing...Can we see the results too?
-
I finish on pure plate :) and mix pure and poker plate T_T
I can do on race T_T and can't on choc mini :|
pure
[attachimg=1]
pure + poker
[attachimg=2]
-
I filled out the form. I know stainless is just as cheap as the aluminum, but in reality I would much prefer aluminum sanded to thickness and hard anodized, like the Phantom plates were. I know sanding stainless is a big PITA for your guy, so that's why I think aluminum would be better.
-
Im up for this as beast can get better pricing than i can dont really know what plates i want exactly yet all i know is i want stainless so i havnt filled out the form.
-
Well, the Phantom Plates we can get ourselves, as well as the Poker plate if you post the DWG. The GH60's designs we can all get from the GB (eventually) or ourselves as Komar said that the GH60 is open to the community. So, it seems logical that the only plates left are the Mini and Tenkeyless. The ISO and ANSI 125 and 150 would need new PCB's to be used, yes? Thus, I don't think we need those, at the current moment. Just my thoughts though, do as you wish Beast!
Also, one last thing...Can we see the results too?
Yup Phantom plates are available somewhere online (don't ask me where I got them) and so will the GH60 plates. So yes anyone can get the plates anytime. The Professional did and paid $60 per plate. If I'm wasting my time running GB's just tell me, I have was better stuff I could be doing than trying to get cheaper plates for Gh
I filled out the form. I know stainless is just as cheap as the aluminum, but in reality I would much prefer aluminum sanded to thickness and hard anodized, like the Phantom plates were. I know sanding stainless is a big PITA for your guy, so that's why I think aluminum would be better.
I'll ask about .060" plates for Costar but no promises on if he can do it. The only anodizing plate I talked to/knew of has a $500 setup fee.
-
16gauge stainless should work for costar thats what i got my phantom plates done in.
-
Well, the Phantom Plates we can get ourselves, as well as the Poker plate if you post the DWG. The GH60's designs we can all get from the GB (eventually) or ourselves as Komar said that the GH60 is open to the community. So, it seems logical that the only plates left are the Mini and Tenkeyless. The ISO and ANSI 125 and 150 would need new PCB's to be used, yes? Thus, I don't think we need those, at the current moment. Just my thoughts though, do as you wish Beast!
Also, one last thing...Can we see the results too?
Yup Phantom plates are available somewhere online (don't ask me where I got them) and so will the GH60 plates. So yes anyone can get the plates anytime. The Professional did and paid $60 per plate. If I'm wasting my time running GB's just tell me, I have was better stuff I could be doing than trying to get cheaper plates for Gh
I wasn't trying to bash you Beast. I just think that the other plates may be more of a better idea, in my opinion.:)
-
I think hes just trying to get as many plates as he can at once.
-
Ah, that makes sense. I'd probably be in for a tenkeyless plate and a GH60 plate but that's going to be hairy to order...
-
"ResponSes" isn't public.
-
Im up for this as beast can get better pricing than i can dont really know what plates i want exactly yet all i know is i want stainless so i havnt filled out the form.
You can put other plate designs on the "others" section of the form
16gauge stainless should work for costar thats what i got my phantom plates done in.
I found a caliper, the poker plate I had was between .059" and .061" depending on where I took the measurement.
"ResponSes" isn't public.
Check now
-
Not as much interest I thought there would be
Anyways I asked my guy a couple of questions:
Stainless is EASIER to sand down to .060" than aluminum since aluminum wraps easier due to it being a softer material and because of heat. However this doesn't mean that he's going to sand 95 plates to .060" just because it's stainless. The machine is really only meant to deburr parts off the laser.
He can cut 1/2" aluminum and 1" stainless, however edges are striated (not very smooth) and the precision just isn't there. He suggested a minimum of 5/8" hole at 1/2" aluminum.
Stainless is EASIER for him to cut than aluminum since it's less reflective, doesn't wrap under heat as much and doesn't blow out as much.
He can cut acrylic but he has the lock the head at 1/4" above the material. This is way past the lasers focus point so the edge quality isn't a good and isn't as accurate. On metal sheets the head distance is between .010" and .030" away from the material
He gave me a lead on a cheaper place to get stuff anodized, but we still have to worry about where they're going to weld on the electrode
-
It's only been one day, and it was the weekend. You'll get a trickle of responses. No rush though right? GH60 is still far away.
The thing about stainless steel is that we're SOL on color because it needs to be powder coated if we want color. And the problem with powder coat is that it adds thickness to the surface, and it's hard to control how much thickness it'll add because you're spraying on the powder by hand. Based on the tolerances of the plate holes, you most likely going to have fitting problems later when you install all the switches. This is why I preferred anodizing, because you have a choice of powder coat or anodizing.
-
I finish on pure plate :) and mix pure and poker plate T_T
I can do on race T_T and can't on choc mini :|
pure
(Attachment Link)
pure + poker
(Attachment Link)
Very nice work!
-
Whoever chooses any metal over stainless steel is a tool. There I said.
-
Whoever chooses any metal over stainless steel is a tool. There I said.
Tómelo con calma brotaco
Anyways the other anodizing place got back to me about doing 95 poker plates (I just used this as an example, they are still being cut in stainless steel). $2.50 per plate + shipping to them + shipping to me + state tax + environments surcharge + F.O.D + C.O.D + Beast's pain in the d*ck for doing this fee
Edit: He got back to me again. No welding needed for these hypothetical plates which is really good. Plus he can fit 10 plates per rack and charges the same for different colors. So we could have 10 purple, 10 yellow, 10 blue.... at $2.50 per plate. Or 1 black plate at $25 for that plate since he charges by the rack.
-
So $10/plate ?
-
I will buy the f word out of a green one of these for my pure and a blue one for my YotD. For real.
-
So $10/plate ?
Just for anodizing? I don't 100% know, I'll look into it more. I still have one more place to contact about anodizing.
I will buy the f word out of a green one of these for my pure and a blue one for my YotD. For real.
That's the color pallet they had on their website. However I didn't ask if they had more.
(http://img1.UploadScreenshot.com/images/main/10/30301482628.jpg) (http://www.UploadScreenshot.com/image/1592944/1116169)
-
(http://i978.photobucket.com/albums/ae270/tjcaustin/fword.jpg)
BAM!
There will be a worldwide shortage of Fwords because of those two colors.
-
Im up for this as beast can get better pricing than i can dont really know what plates i want exactly yet all i know is i want stainless so i havnt filled out the form.
You can put other plate designs on the "others" section of the form
16gauge stainless should work for costar thats what i got my phantom plates done in.
I found a caliper, the poker plate I had was between .059" and .061" depending on where I took the measurement.
thats aufully close and like i said worked on my phantoms
-
It's only been one day, and it was the weekend. You'll get a trickle of responses. No rush though right? GH60 is still far away.
The thing about stainless steel is that we're SOL on color because it needs to be powder coated if we want color. And the problem with powder coat is that it adds thickness to the surface, and it's hard to control how much thickness it'll add because you're spraying on the powder by hand. Based on the tolerances of the plate holes, you most likely going to have fitting problems later when you install all the switches. This is why I preferred anodizing, because you have a choice of powder coat or anodizing.
stainless's color is a beauty on its own ;)
-
Whoever chooses any metal over stainless steel is a tool. There I said.
im right with ya bro!
-
can u let me know ETA for this :D
-
Im up for this as beast can get better pricing than i can dont really know what plates i want exactly yet all i know is i want stainless so i havnt filled out the form.
You can put other plate designs on the "others" section of the form
16gauge stainless should work for costar thats what i got my phantom plates done in.
I found a caliper, the poker plate I had was between .059" and .061" depending on where I took the measurement.
thats aufully close and like i said worked on my phantoms
Yea +/- .005" costar will work, so a max of .065" and a min of .055" So having .059" to .061" are really nice considering
can u let me know ETA for this :D
It will be after the poker plates and sometime during the GH60. If you REALLY need a plate PM me with the dwg and I'll run it. But just be aware that you're not going to get as good of a price since you'd only be ordering a few and not 95 of them (more = cheaper)
-
I haven't contacted anyone else about anodizing, it's been such a busy week it's ridiculous. A couple test, a couple group meets and projects, volunteering today, teaching kids about physics tomorrow, research projects, the poker plate GB....
However my laser guy got back to me about thicker aluminum/stainless plates that I was planning on using for a case, The edge serration isn't the best but it is a laser and it's cutting to god damn light:
(http://img1.UploadScreenshot.com/images/orig/11/30617023737-orig.jpg) (http://www.UploadScreenshot.com/image/1604182/9863021)