Don't totally turn him away from the M's guys! They are indeed solid boards!
Wow, this place is awesome. Never expected so many replies in such a short period of time!
I just don't know why they're not called "IBM Panzer M".That's classic!Show Image(http://i45.tinypic.com/28hg6q8.jpg)
Well...I basically trolled this thread, due to me watching the Spy...
I just don't know why they're not called "IBM Panzer M".Show Image(http://i45.tinypic.com/28hg6q8.jpg)
The Spy (above in the quick links) is an always updating thread feed. I followed this thread via the spy, hence why I'm in this thread quite a bit.Well...I basically trolled this thread, due to me watching the Spy...
?? Is there an inside joke I should know?
The Spy (above in the quick links) is an always updating thread feed. I followed this thread via the spy, hence why I'm in this thread quite a bit.Well...I basically trolled this thread, due to me watching the Spy...
?? Is there an inside joke I should know?
Things you should ask yourself:
Do I want tactile feedback, or a linear feel?
Do I want audible feedback (clicky switches) or no click?
Overall keyboard noise level? (For instance, Model M is on the louder end of the spectrum)
Full size (104 key) or compact (without number pad)... some prefer the latter because of mouse placement.
Price range?
crthell,
Don't get auction fever. 'nuff said..
*looks at TJ* :P
Things you should ask yourself:
Do I want tactile feedback, or a linear feel?
Do I want audible feedback (clicky switches) or no click?
Overall keyboard noise level? (For instance, Model M is on the louder end of the spectrum)
Full size (104 key) or compact (without number pad)... some prefer the latter because of mouse placement.
Price range?
Can you please explain tactile vs. linear? I hear the terms quite a bit, but aren't exactly sure of the distinct differences. As to the others.
-I like audible feedback, but its not mandatory
-I like loud and noisy, as I'm not in a silent environment
-I'm not actually a fan of tenkeyless, as I can touchtype with the letters but not with the upper row of numbers/symbols
-Price is a problem. I'd probably lean toward a used board, as I'm the type that likes cleaning up old things and bringing them to life. What would be the price of a quality first mech?
Can you please explain tactile vs. linear? I hear the terms quite a bit, but aren't exactly sure of the distinct differences. As to the others.
I definitely can't say what's "best"...but I see you have an Apple Extended II. If you want a "modernized" version of that, consider the Matias Quiet Pro (http://www.matias.ca/quietpro/). It has a redeveloped version of the dampened ALPS switches that the AEKII uses. They're quite tactile, and non-clicky (they make more of a muted "thock" sound). If you like the feel on the AEKII as I do, you'll like the MQP as well.
On the other hand, If you want something clicky and loud...yes...buckling spring ;DCan you please explain tactile vs. linear? I hear the terms quite a bit, but aren't exactly sure of the distinct differences. As to the others.
Linear = resistance is smooth all the way till bottoming out. The switch actuates somewhere in the middle.
Tactile = resistance increases until you feel a "bump", then reduces quickly till bottoming out. The switch usually actuates at the bump.
Neither of these have an effect on "clickiness". Theres usually something in the switch mechanism to create the click sound. So you get physical and audible feedback (aside from the sound of the key bottoming out)
Besides, Matias is one of the few companies that also post stuff in here! Props up for them, really great to see that they have some interest with our community!
Can you please explain tactile vs. linear? I hear the terms quite a bit, but aren't exactly sure of the distinct differences. As to the others.
-I like audible feedback, but its not mandatory
-I like loud and noisy, as I'm not in a silent environment
-I'm not actually a fan of tenkeyless, as I can touchtype with the letters but not with the upper row of numbers/symbols
-Price is a problem. I'd probably lean toward a used board, as I'm the type that likes cleaning up old things and bringing them to life. What would be the price of a quality first mech?
Go with Model M/Unicomp. BS is a benchmark switch.
Agreed.Go with Model M/Unicomp. BS is a benchmark switch.
This. Based on your requirements above a Model M sounds like it would serve you best // and you should be able to pick one up for about 30 bucks.
You can pick up a "modern" (brand new) Model M keyboard made by Unicomp, who bought the patents for the buckling spring switch technology. For about $80. Not bad compared compared to other mechanical switch keyboards. For a non-gamer typist, they can be an excellent switch. It might fatigue your fingers a bit the first time you use them (they're pretty stiff), but I can absolutely fly when typing on it. I think my fastest Typeracer speed was with those buckling springs (117WPM I think?).Just out of curiosity, what was your wpm before the M?
If you like the Alps in your AEK, and not afraid to solder, you could pick up a Dell AT101 and swap them into it, that is if you still prefer them. Also Model M are cheap, so no reason not to get one and try it at least. Also if you keep an eye out Cherry G80 can be had for as little as $15 on ebay from time to time, and most usually can find something under $40. Just can't be so choosy about switch type then, most likely to get blacks or maybe browns.Are the alps in the AEKII of a higher quality than the AT101W? I'm pretty sure mine is an Alps, but it may be a Mitsumi. I'll have to study the switches and pull a key.
I really like the feel of my AEKII. Its a bit muted, but the feel is really, really nice. Would it be more cost effective to get an ADB-USB adapter? Would that even work with my Windows PCs? I saw an adapter, but it was way too expensive (like $50, so more than a used M.)
I'm leaning toward an original M, just because they can be picked up cheaper and seem to last forever. I've done some research into Unicomp boards, and there seem to be some quality control issues (bubbles in the plastic, etc.)
Apologies for my ignorance towards this, I'm just trying to weigh my options!
You can pick up a "modern" (brand new) Model M keyboard made by Unicomp, who bought the patents for the buckling spring switch technology. For about $80. Not bad compared compared to other mechanical switch keyboards. For a non-gamer typist, they can be an excellent switch. It might fatigue your fingers a bit the first time you use them (they're pretty stiff), but I can absolutely fly when typing on it. I think my fastest Typeracer speed was with those buckling springs (117WPM I think?).Just out of curiosity, what was your wpm before the M?
Are the alps in the AEKII of a higher quality than the AT101W? I'm pretty sure mine is an Alps, but it may be a Mitsumi. I'll have to study the switches and pull a key.
The model number is M3501. If that makes it a Mitsumi, which would be a better buy: an iMate adapter, or a used M? How do the Mitsumi switches compare to the AEKIIs with Alps?Are the alps in the AEKII of a higher quality than the AT101W? I'm pretty sure mine is an Alps, but it may be a Mitsumi. I'll have to study the switches and pull a key.
The Dell uses black Alps which are not as good. I think the SGI version uses white or cream which are pretty nice.
Does your AEKII have a serial number beginning with 'M'? I believe that would be a Mitsumi.
The noise isn't really a big problem for me, but nobody likes finger strain! How many of you guys feel the same about the M?I really like the feel of my AEKII. Its a bit muted, but the feel is really, really nice. Would it be more cost effective to get an ADB-USB adapter? Would that even work with my Windows PCs? I saw an adapter, but it was way too expensive (like $50, so more than a used M.)
I'm leaning toward an original M, just because they can be picked up cheaper and seem to last forever. I've done some research into Unicomp boards, and there seem to be some quality control issues (bubbles in the plastic, etc.)
Apologies for my ignorance towards this, I'm just trying to weigh my options!
Belkin and iMate used to make ADB adapters that work with Windows. You can sometimes find them used, although....... Belkin's product page looks like they have new ones in stock for $32.
http://www.belkin.com/IWCatProductPage.process?Product_Id=87365
I would stick with the AEKII if I possibly could. It is one of the better-feeling and quieter mechanical keyboards out there. Matias just released a new Quiet Pro keyboard for people who want the tactile feeling but not the noise. The cheapest I've seen it is $139, however.
The Model M is nice, but I used them for years and really that was too long for me. Too much finger strain and too much noise.
Another alternative would be a used SGI or Dell AT101W.
The model number is M3501. If that makes it a Mitsumi, which would be a better buy: an iMate adapter, or a used M? How do the Mitsumi switches compare to the AEKIIs with Alps?Are the alps in the AEKII of a higher quality than the AT101W? I'm pretty sure mine is an Alps, but it may be a Mitsumi. I'll have to study the switches and pull a key.
The Dell uses black Alps which are not as good. I think the SGI version uses white or cream which are pretty nice.
Does your AEKII have a serial number beginning with 'M'? I believe that would be a Mitsumi.
I have Alps! Yay! I'm pretty sure I'll get the adapter now, since I know I really like the feel of the AEKII!The model number is M3501. If that makes it a Mitsumi, which would be a better buy: an iMate adapter, or a used M? How do the Mitsumi switches compare to the AEKIIs with Alps?Are the alps in the AEKII of a higher quality than the AT101W? I'm pretty sure mine is an Alps, but it may be a Mitsumi. I'll have to study the switches and pull a key.
The Dell uses black Alps which are not as good. I think the SGI version uses white or cream which are pretty nice.
Does your AEKII have a serial number beginning with 'M'? I believe that would be a Mitsumi.
It looks like the M3501 had some units using Mitsumi and others using Alps. If you pull off a key cap, the switch housing will say "ALPS" if the keyboard uses Alps switches.
https://secure.flickr.com/photos/ballaschk/2606545447/
If the noise and key stiffness of the Model M don't bother you, then getting one will at least give you another reference point for keyboards. But my personal choice is to lean toward getting the adapter if your keyboard has the Alps switches (using the AEKII is the better value, esp. if you already know you like typing on it).