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geekhack Community => Keyboards => Topic started by: metalliqaz on Tue, 18 December 2012, 14:10:30
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Edit: I totally meant to put this in "making stuff together" Mods please move?
I wanted a white case Filco (not beige but white) to go with white on black Cherry doubleshots. I think that look is really nice. To make it happen I took my existing black case and gave it a paint job. Thought I'd document it here.
Just to be clear, my process is probably not the best possible process, but it is pretty good for a do-it-yourself-er.
Credit where credit is due (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=34373)
- Disassemble the keyboard. The Filco has only one screw but you have to use some credit cards to unclip the top and bottom.
- Take the top cover and clean it if necessary. Doesn't really matter at this point because we are going to sand it, but you do want to get the crud off. Soap and water or rubbing alcohol.
- Remove the FILCO badge. On my TKL, I had to pry it out with a knife. I taped some scotch tape to a unused part of my desk and then lightly stuck the badge on it to wait. That way the adhesive on the badge will stay safe and you can remount it later. I did bugger up the plastic around the badge a little bit, but it came out with sanding.
- Time for wet sanding. I went to Home Depot and bought 3M imperial Wetordry (http://www.homedepot.com/buy/3m-imperial-wetordry-400-grit-silicon-carbide-sandpaper-10-pack--5920-18-cc.html) sheets in 400, 600, and 800 grit. Cut the paper into manageable pieces, the case has some small spaces to sand.
- Fill your sink with a few inches of water to use as a rinse. Get the case wet, get the paper wet, then start sanding. Start with 400 grit over the entire case, then work up to the finer grits. You only need to sand the parts that are going to get painted. (i.e. the top and sides) Be firm but don't use too much force. Try to sand evenly. Rinse often. The Filco cases come with a shiny coating, you want to sand all of that off. After your 400 grit, you can let it dry to see if you've gotten it all. It will definitely take a few tries.
- Let it dry completely. Clean it with rubbing alcohol and a lint free cloth.
- Place it on a stand or hang it from a hook. Whatever you like but it is going to be there for a while and you can't touch it once you've started so plan appropriately.
- I chose to use Rustoleum Universal Gloss (http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=178) paint, also Home Depot. Whatever you use, make sure it bonds with plastic. Rostoleum and Krylon have a few product lines that can bind to plastic. If you want to use fancy art paints, you have to get a primer that bonds to plastic.
- Follow the directions on the can exactly. Read them all before you start. Then follow them exactly. Did I say that you should follow the directions on the can exactly?
- I used many very light coats for two reasons. 1. Thick coats will drip and ruin your paint job. 2. I didn't want to sand in between coats. A very good paint job would wet sand the paint again between coats for a very nice smooth and defect-free base, then finish with a clear protecting coat. I don't have time for all that. For my paint I waited 10 minutes between coats. I probably did 8 coats or something like that.
- Paint in a ventilated area that is warm enough for the paint to work and not exposed to any wind. When it's finished, let it dry for a week. Yes, 7 whole days. Just leave it where it is.
- I found that it still felt tacky until about two weeks after painting. I waited until it seemed fully cured before I remounted the badge.
I wish I had taken some photos of the case after sanding. :( Anyway, here is a photo of the case just after I applied the last coat.
[attachimg=1]
I cheated a little bit and took a picture after it had only been drying for 5 days...
[attachimg=2]
Isn't that classy? I love it. If only the Alu space bar came in black :)
Okay done drying, here are the pics...
[attachimg=3]
[attachimg=4]
Such a potato I know. I'll mount the logo after a little more time.
[attachimg=5]
Here is the bottom. An awful lot of paint managed to get up there, even though I was always spraying from the top.
[attachimg=6]
[attachimg=7]
These are Cherry keycaps from Inlikeflynn's pile of MY boards, Feng aluminum space bar, Cherry red esc from EK, a Hashbaz RGBY kit, a geekhack key from the recent fund raiser, and one of !3oiler's center/stepped caps locks.
[attachimg=8]
[attachimg=9]
It is very white, which is what I wanted. None of this beige business. I wanted it to really bring out the white legends.
[attachimg=10]
[attachimg=11]
My camera isn't good enough to show the imperfections, but there are a few. I'm still very happy with the results.
[attachimg=12]
I like this shot because it shows the myriad of imperfections. I'm such a noob.
[attachimg=13]
[attachimg=14]
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Very cool. Your description of the process looks idiot-proof. I've been thinking of trying this one day, so this will definitely help when it comes to it.
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Looks good. I was actually just looking for a good guide on painting a case because I might try to paint my branded QFR case. If you make a mistake(like a drop of paint running or something), can you just resand that area and repaint? Or do you think you would have to resand the entire thing and start over?
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You have to let it dry enough to resand (read the can) but I would probably sand off the mistake then completely resand the whole thing with the fine grit. I mean, if you're in there anyway why not? Plus you want it to look even.
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Thanks metalliqaz. Planning to do something similar with a QFR in the near future.
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Very nice! ;D
Filcos look really good in white.
I would love to see a similar effect on the QFR.
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Very nice! ;D
Filcos look really good in white.
I would love to see a similar effect on the QFR.
Here is my QFR. It could be better but not bad.
(http://i.imgur.com/0k4hH.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/myURi.jpg)
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:eek:
I like it. What switch version is that QFR?
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Brown.
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I love how detailed your description of the process is. I'm encouraged to paint my case on my KeyCool now. I'm thinking I want to make it red.
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Let's see how mine comes out...
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pretty cool can wait to see how it turns out
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Sleepy did you use a similar process?
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Sleepy, what's the brand of painting/color you were using? Looks really great.
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mmm id be tempted to spray a filco grey, nice thread btw.
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Was very tempted to mount it today, instead I just shot a quick preview. I hope I can take photos that show it with my potato, but with the results it is obvious that I am a total amateur. There are many imperfections.
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Final pics. It really pops, I like that :)
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Looks very nice; good work! ...And thank you for sharing your process. =)
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It looks very good, well done!
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You gonna put that Filco emblem back in?
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You gonna put that Filco emblem back in?
Yes, when I have some time next week I will. I wanted to give it another week to really harden up.
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Looks good. Planning to do the same thing (candy apple red) to a QFR in the next couple of weeks for the RA 2.0 set.
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Looks good. Planning to do the same thing (candy apple red) to a QFR in the next couple of weeks for the RA 2.0 set.
I like that look! Same keyboard as above:
[attachimg=1]
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Very nice job!!!
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Looks real slick, I need to get around to painting my QFR as soon as I find a paint I can trust.
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Looks real slick, I need to get around to painting my QFR as soon as I find a paint I can trust.
I'm planning to use Rustoleum Universal Gloss (245211 - Gloss Cardinal Red), same brand as OP.
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Looks real slick, I need to get around to painting my QFR as soon as I find a paint I can trust.
I'm planning to use Rustoleum Universal Gloss (245211 - Gloss Cardinal Red), same brand as OP.
I've heard plenty good about it, but I can't get it here. Krylon Fusion is the only one I've been able to find a possible source for in Norway so far, but I've heard it's not all that durable.
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holy crap! you just solved my problem with filco's camo keyboard!
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Great job and an excellent guide. I'm definitely using this guide when i pluck up the courage to paint my filco. I'm thinking red wood effect just like this:
http://www.keyboardco.com/keyboard_details.asp?PRODUCT=1017
I wonder how they created that effect though?
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Great job and an excellent guide. I'm definitely using this guide when i pluck up the courage to paint my filco. I'm thinking red wood effect just like this:
http://www.keyboardco.com/keyboard_details.asp?PRODUCT=1017
I wonder how they created that effect though?
It's not a paint job, the Filco covers are just vinyl covers or something that they put on top of the keyboard case.
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thanks for this inspiration. this is mine.
(http://i.imgur.com/5Ypn5.jpg)
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That one's nice :)
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Nice!
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Great job and an excellent guide. I'm definitely using this guide when i pluck up the courage to paint my filco. I'm thinking red wood effect just like this:
http://www.keyboardco.com/keyboard_details.asp?PRODUCT=1017
I wonder how they created that effect though?
You could do it in paint, but it'd be a lot of work. Basic principle is to use a flat black basecoat, then do your wood effect using (many) alternating coats of "grain" using a cream or ivory colour interior vinyl paint (usualy dry brushed on) covered with thin coats of spray woodstain in varying tints. To get something like that you'd want to go for some deep red tinted stains and potentially shooting a candy red over the top of the whole thing. To do it properly you'd probably need upwards of a week (and a certain amount of practice beforehand, I wouldn't start by attacking a valued item)
You can cheat by using an ivory basecoat and a couple of layers of brushed gel stain, but you don't get the depth of colour - it looks ok from a distance but looks like hell up close.
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Thanks for the heads up tufty. I'm going to practice your method on some plastic i got stashed in the garage.