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geekhack Community => Keyboards => Topic started by: KuhnTang on Thu, 27 December 2012, 22:37:37
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So, I got a new Filco Ninja (Reds) in the mail today from keyboard co. on Amazon. I started typing away and I'm not completely in love with the reds yet, but I could tell it was a quality board and was starting to see what all The fuss was about. That is until I started typing capitol letters and I keep hearing a squeaky, rattling. This happening on both shift keys. All the others have a nice sounding thock, ... I bottom out alot. The sound is a lot better than the browns or the blues, at least to me.
All I kept hearing about was the excellent build quality of the Filco, so this is a little disappointing to say the least. My Ducky has a squeeky spacebar, am I cursed, or do all keyboards have little issues with them?
On a side note, I know the QFR is a Filco clone and some people will tell you to buy the QFR because of the price difference. I can tell, even with the squeaky shift, the Filco is far superior. I typed on the QFR at frys, and it felt cheep. And yes, I know I just complained about the quality of the Filco too.
Is this worth returning? Can something easy fix this problem?
Thanks
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You have to lube the wire stabilizer bars. Use some silicone grease or white lithium grease.
You can find the stabilizer bars underneath the space bar, enter, backspace, and both shift keys.
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Great, thanks man. I think my gun uses a grease like that, so it should be easy. Exactly what I was hoping for, an easy fix.
I hope I didn't sound like I was bashing Filco, I was just a little sad that it came squeaky out of the box. Overall, it is a nice board.
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A first impression can make all the difference to how you feel about a keyboard down the track. FWIW the modifiers on my QFR have been known to squeak from time to time. Not on the Ducky though, although that uses different stabilisers.
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Great, thanks man. I think my gun uses a grease like that, so it should be easy.
Sure, just make sure that whatever grease you use is plastic-safe.
For the life of me, I cannot comprehend why Costar don't lubricate their stabilisers. With a bit of lube, they are so very good; without they are terrible. It would be such a small improvement that would add so much to the user experience.
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Great, thanks man. I think my gun uses a grease like that, so it should be easy.
Sure, just make sure that whatever grease you use is plastic-safe.
For the life of me, I cannot comprehend why Costar don't lubricate their stabilisers. With a bit of lube, they are so very good; without they are terrible. It would be such a small improvement that would add so much to the user experience.
The reason they don't lube their stabilizer is because they DON'T know how long this keyboard will sit in the BOX.
If it sits there for more than 6 months, they would've lubed it up for nothing, because the lube would mostly be on the back plate.
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Great, thanks man. I think my gun uses a grease like that, so it should be easy.
Sure, just make sure that whatever grease you use is plastic-safe.
For the life of me, I cannot comprehend why Costar don't lubricate their stabilisers. With a bit of lube, they are so very good; without they are terrible. It would be such a small improvement that would add so much to the user experience.
The reason they don't lube their stabilizer is because they DON'T know how long this keyboard will sit in the BOX.
If it sits there for more than 6 months, they would've lubed it up for nothing, because the lube would mostly be on the back plate.
Which is why you shouldn't get surprised when the Enter, Backspace and Space Bar kays start "squeaking" like that as well. Just apply the lube on all keys which have a stabilizer and you'll save yourself some time later as well.
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Great, thanks man. I think my gun uses a grease like that, so it should be easy.
Sure, just make sure that whatever grease you use is plastic-safe.
For the life of me, I cannot comprehend why Costar don't lubricate their stabilisers. With a bit of lube, they are so very good; without they are terrible. It would be such a small improvement that would add so much to the user experience.
The reason they don't lube their stabilizer is because they DON'T know how long this keyboard will sit in the BOX.
If it sits there for more than 6 months, they would've lubed it up for nothing, because the lube would mostly be on the back plate.
Which is why you shouldn't get surprised when the Enter, Backspace and Space Bar kays start "squeaking" like that as well. Just apply the lube on all keys which have a stabilizer and you'll save yourself some time later as well.
Also, do not use high viscosity lube, it stays on better but makes the key sticky.
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As I always do, I highly recommend this stuff (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HBNV58/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00).
Not only great on my Costar boards, but works perfectly for my AR-15 as well :D
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I would try lubing.. Odd though, both of my filcos don't squeak at all.
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reseating them can also resolve issues like this.
I had an issue with my rosewill backspace key at first.
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I just ordered a new Filco as well. You really have to lube these keyboards sometimes? Is it easy and is there a good tutorial?
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Takt it with a grain of salt, but ... http://imgur.com/a/9BTc7#0
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would vaseline be any good as a keyboard lube?
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Also this: http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=34332.0
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Also this: http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=34332.0
That was a great link, thanks.
You wouldn't happen to know whre I can get a tool to remove the tops of the switches do you?
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http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=36677.0
Can't find the GB thread atm.
Pic here (as the original pics are dead): http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=33130.msg733687#msg733687
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QFR feels cheap... lol
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QFR feels cheap... lol
yep
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Keyboards generally don't need to be lubed unless you want it to be super smooth. But be warned, lubricating parts that are exposed to dust and grit can actually harm the part over time, reducing lifespan, while only providing a temporary reduction in friction. Any lube at any viscosity will hold onto dust and grit which can act like an abrasive that wears the parts internally. Hence why on automobiles any greased or lubricated components are either covered with a dust boot or filtered (engine oil).
On my Ducky Shine II the space bar was initially a little squeaky at first when I typed on it normally, but after a couple of days of use and a long essay it didn't squeak anymore. The solution? Everything and anything, when there is friction involved, will release small amounts of particles. With a metal stabilizer bar that squeaked against plastic fixtures, the friction would wear a tiny bit of the plastic in a dust like form that would provide dry lubrication similar to that of dry graphite lubricant. And now, voila. It is very smooth, very nice. Even some switches need to be broken in, mainly the linear switches if you are looking for the smooth feel. The springs well get slightly softer over time due to the repetitive stress and deformation they receive, but should still maintain most of their rate over time.
Bottom line? Don't lube it, unless it drives you nuts. If you do, go for a plastic-safe, silicone based lube that is synthetic. But be warned, keep a duster handy and make use of it or else it won't feel that good over time. Give it a chance, it's a great keyboard. Very jealous, but I love my backlighting. Happy New Year.
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If it sits there for more than 6 months, they would've lubed it up for nothing, because the lube would mostly be on the back plate.
Nope. You're forgetting surface tension. I've got keyboards that have been lubed for *decades*, without any such effect.
But be warned, lubricating parts that are exposed to dust and grit can actually harm the part over time, reducing lifespan, while only providing a temporary reduction in friction.
Source?
Not being argumentative, but this seems to be a theme carried over from other communities concerning firearms, bicycle chains etc., but the evidence seems mostly anecdotal. There may be a downside to lubrication, but there must also be a net positive, because otherwise people wouldn't lubricate machines. Why shouldn't the same be true of plastic moving parts?
Edit: the fact that plastic part manufacturers generally recommend lubrication makes me sceptical of negative claims about lubrication.
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If it sits there for more than 6 months, they would've lubed it up for nothing, because the lube would mostly be on the back plate.
Nope. You're forgetting surface tension. I've got keyboards that have been lubed for *decades*, without any such effect.
But be warned, lubricating parts that are exposed to dust and grit can actually harm the part over time, reducing lifespan, while only providing a temporary reduction in friction.
Source?
Not being argumentative, but this seems to be a theme carried over from other communities concerning firearms, bicycle chains etc., but the evidence seems mostly anecdotal. There may be a downside to lubrication, but there must also be a net positive, because otherwise people wouldn't lubricate machines. Why shouldn't the same be true of plastic moving parts?
Edit: the fact that plastic part manufacturers generally recommend lubrication makes me sceptical of negative claims about lubrication.
My Source? My mechanical engineering degree.
I've taken too many classes on this. lol.
Why do you think firearms and bike chains need to be CLEANED and then LUBED? Dust. The fact is that you can clean these off, and also, metal has much more wear resistance than plastic. (Metal > sand/dust but plastic < sand/dust) It's about hardness, toughness, etc. Places like stabilizers, CV joints must be covered to eliminate dust contamination. Hence why automobiles, yes lubed, have a filter and the oil must be changed. All the fluids are like that. Any permanent lubrication has covers.
Trust me, try keeping a bike lubed while not cleaning it. See how thin your teeth get on your gears. It's not the chain that does that, its the grit in the grease.
Lube is necessary on firearms and bike chains because the reduction in friction is necessary for proper firearm operation (especially in handguns with recoil operation rather than gas operated rifles). The designers set the spring rates, slide velocity and all that with lubrication in mind with the necessary friction coefficients. For bicycles, well lube is necessary to avoid severe drivetrain loss and wear.
It really depends. For example, you NEVER lube gears on an open gear box. Why? The plastic will lube itself. I have proven this during a competition when an opposing team decided lube on their gears would be advantageous. Our gears at the same ratio, same motor same batteries pulled 10 more pounds up a 40 degree incline on 2 AA batteries. (3 Watts)