I just picked up a quickfire rapid with cherry blues and have the same crap. Half the the time my spacebar when pressed from the left side doesn't produce a click but works perfectly fine on the right side. And also half keys on the board doesn't produce a solid click rather silent loose click.
This is my third quickfire rapid board from the local store and all of are having this problem. On one of them, several keys did not make any clicks at all. Not sure if this is a problem with coolermaster or just specifically with cherry blue switches. I'm going to stick with linear red switches.
The click is produced entirely within the switch housing itself.
It is unlikely that anything like dust would have gotted into the switch, unless you are in an exceptionally dusty enrivonment.
Some of my MX blue switches have gone the other way - they did not click at all when I first got the keyboard, now they click (sometimes).
Maybe it was a bad batch of switches? This is not a problem I have heard of before, as the switches should last 50 million keystrokes each and thus should not so easily wear out so quickly.
Is it still under warranty? Can you RMA it?
i'm seriously unimpressed with the quality of cherry switches.
I blame the switch design, too many tiny parts, with not enough precision.
Blues are sort of a compromise design in my eyes. The guides have to be shorter to make room for the part that clicks and it relies on near perfect alignment for things to work. Unfortunately the sorter guides make that hard to achieve.
The theory about overheating during soldering could also not only be true, but be exaggerated on blues because of their compromised design.
Anyone know if the browns can lose their sound? Thanks.
This is my biggest complaint with cherry mx blues. My DAS, POKER and QuickFire have all had that problem with at least one switch. It is annoying and i hate it when the manufacturer says that it is caused by dirt or dust. It is a faulty switch. And it really pisses me off because it always a key that is pressed often, not a tilde or something that is never pressed! Anyone know if the browns can lose their sound? Thanks.I wonder how they think dust and dirt could actually get in there in enough quantity and size to cause an issue in such a relatively short amount of time. Cherry did a pretty good job sealing the switch off from the holes opposite the switch mechanism. On top of that you have the key cap, and possibly a plate covering it.
Odd that I've only been hearing about this happening recently. Or has this always been an issue with blue switches?
I was thinking of trying blues next since it's been a while since i've had a clicky board, but after reading all this stuff I might reconsider.
Not really new, I've been hearing of it for around 6 months.
Of my two boards with MX blues, one has a couple of switches that are less clicky. All other switches are fine, and none seem to be losing their click.
If anything the less clicky switches seem to be getting more clicky, which is a good ting :)
This is a definitely a "new" complaint people has had...
So I bought a CM QuickFire rapid with blues and I love it (only a few weeks old). That being said, I've noticed that while typing some keys make a much more pronounced click than the others. In fact, some dont even sound like they're clicking at all sometimes. They still register though.
My das which I intend to keep despite the rollover problems has one switch that is in-audible.
I wonder if there is a way to fix it without invalidating my warranty.
one key on my das s pro only clicks if i hit the very bottom left edge of it. if i press it in the center like i usually would it does not click. is there any way i can fix this?
So, my right Alt's switch on my Filco has gone wonky. It actuates correctly, but it doesn't click - either in terms of sound or tactility. I tried pressing the switch down and airdusting into it, but that did nothing. It's definitely not a keycap issue. Any suggestions?
I fixed it. I was looking at the switch and I noticed that there was a gap in the bottom on the left hand side, through which a hair was stuck. I removed the hair with a tweezers and the switch started clicking again.
Anyone know if the browns can lose their sound? Thanks.
i dont even know how to open this thing. there are no visible screws. i hope i dont have to tear the rubber pads off to open it
I blame the switch design, too many tiny parts, with not enough precision.
http://www.diatec.co.jp/en/aboutus.php#CU
Have at it...
I'm going to be so ****ing polite. they will not know what hit them. The chopsticks are going to fly out of their hands and hit the gong behind them!
Weird. Possibly you have been mashing on them a little hard and maybe it got stuck or something?
I highly doubt soldering would damage the switch...I just desoldered and removed some switches for clean and some lube due to some damn ginger ale i spilled.
The plastic is tough, meaning that even excessive heat does not warp the plastic, I know because my soldering iron has tapped the plastic parts and have had some pretty high heat applied near the switches with no issues.
I personally think that perhaps Cherry didn't lube them well enough or something. I only say this because the last time I cleaned out my switches with soap and water to get out all the grime, and I put it all together, and I noticed that I could distinctly hear the spring compressing and decompressing, kind of like an old spring bed. I realized it was the spring grabbing on the plunger and then rubbing against it causing that sound. After some lube, voila. Smoother than my other stock switches.
Bottom line: Take it apart, clean it up, and try to run some high end grease or lube (full synthetic, no petroleum, PTFE preferred). I'm almost certain that it should free up the clicky mechanism.
Personally, RMA would take forever. I would just order some new switches and install them, or try to fix my old ones with the method i mentioned above.
However, I have heard that lubing blues can drastically reduce the click, so I mean, try one, and see how it goes. Plus you can always take it apart and clean it out anyway.
Weird. Possibly you have been mashing on them a little hard and maybe it got stuck or something?
I highly doubt soldering would damage the switch...I just desoldered and removed some switches for clean and some lube due to some damn ginger ale i spilled.
The plastic is tough, meaning that even excessive heat does not warp the plastic, I know because my soldering iron has tapped the plastic parts and have had some pretty high heat applied near the switches with no issues.
I personally think that perhaps Cherry didn't lube them well enough or something. I only say this because the last time I cleaned out my switches with soap and water to get out all the grime, and I put it all together, and I noticed that I could distinctly hear the spring compressing and decompressing, kind of like an old spring bed. I realized it was the spring grabbing on the plunger and then rubbing against it causing that sound. After some lube, voila. Smoother than my other stock switches.
Bottom line: Take it apart, clean it up, and try to run some high end grease or lube (full synthetic, no petroleum, PTFE preferred). I'm almost certain that it should free up the clicky mechanism.
Personally, RMA would take forever. I would just order some new switches and install them, or try to fix my old ones with the method i mentioned above.
However, I have heard that lubing blues can drastically reduce the click, so I mean, try one, and see how it goes. Plus you can always take it apart and clean it out anyway.
i sent diatec an email. i'm not replacing the switches myself when it's less than 30 days old.
this one (http://www.southparkstudios.com/clips/151766/the-brown-noise)Anyone know if the browns can lose their sound? Thanks.
What sound?
Weird. Possibly you have been mashing on them a little hard and maybe it got stuck or something?
I highly doubt soldering would damage the switch...I just desoldered and removed some switches for clean and some lube due to some damn ginger ale i spilled.
The plastic is tough, meaning that even excessive heat does not warp the plastic, I know because my soldering iron has tapped the plastic parts and have had some pretty high heat applied near the switches with no issues.
I personally think that perhaps Cherry didn't lube them well enough or something. I only say this because the last time I cleaned out my switches with soap and water to get out all the grime, and I put it all together, and I noticed that I could distinctly hear the spring compressing and decompressing, kind of like an old spring bed. I realized it was the spring grabbing on the plunger and then rubbing against it causing that sound. After some lube, voila. Smoother than my other stock switches.
Bottom line: Take it apart, clean it up, and try to run some high end grease or lube (full synthetic, no petroleum, PTFE preferred). I'm almost certain that it should free up the clicky mechanism.
Personally, RMA would take forever. I would just order some new switches and install them, or try to fix my old ones with the method i mentioned above.
However, I have heard that lubing blues can drastically reduce the click, so I mean, try one, and see how it goes. Plus you can always take it apart and clean it out anyway.
i sent diatec an email. i'm not replacing the switches myself when it's less than 30 days old.
For sure. You will have to wait a pretty darn long time though. I would personally just have them send me a bunch of new switches, like 10 of them, so i can just replace them for free over the years at any time. And realize that if you learn how to do this once it it's really awesome since you can install whatever switches you want into whatever keys, which is pretty cool. And later, for backlit keyboards, you can install whatever color LEDs into whichever slots as well.
Soldering is honestly the EXACT same as hot glue... Only difference, do NOT breath the smoke...
Soldering is honestly the EXACT same as hot glue... Only difference, do NOT breath the smoke...Show Image(http://i.qkme.me/eb6.jpg)
Soldering is honestly the EXACT same as hot glue... Only difference, do NOT breath the smoke...Show Image(http://i.qkme.me/eb6.jpg)
You got your Glue stick vs Solder
You have to Heat both to melting point
You have to bring 2 pieces of the things you want to join Together, and dab the "stuff" on..
You're the stupid one for not seeing the analogies
Soldering is honestly the EXACT same as hot glue... Only difference, do NOT breath the smoke...Show Image(http://i.qkme.me/eb6.jpg)
You got your Glue stick vs Solder
You have to Heat both to melting point
You have to bring 2 pieces of the things you want to join Together, and dab the "stuff" on..
You're the stupid one for not seeing the analogies
You mad bro?
Soldering is honestly the EXACT same as hot glue... Only difference, do NOT breath the smoke...Show Image(http://i.qkme.me/eb6.jpg)
You got your Glue stick vs Solder
You have to Heat both to melting point
You have to bring 2 pieces of the things you want to join Together, and dab the "stuff" on..
You're the stupid one for not seeing the analogies
You mad bro?
YES!
that's right sucka what now. you done F#$%ed up.
I was transferring my Jailhouse Blues from my Race to my Filco last night and had a chance to experiment with this issue.
I had nearly new Blue stems and a complete set of brand new switch housings that had never been installed.
Out of 90 housings, 3 of them had no tactile feel to them, and unless the tactile bump works, you will not get the click sound as it's what fires the bottom half of the switch down to make the click sound. No matter what stem or top I used, they simply wouldn't work properly. Some also had more feel than others, and again, switching the stem and tops changed nothing, it was only the housing/base that mattered.
Looking inside the switch, they appear perfectly fine, but it turns out that the difference between working and not is extremely small, less than 1mm. Sometimes you can see it, sometimes you can't.
It's a manufacturing issue, specifically how the gold piece is inserted into the plastic.
Depending on how it's placed, will also determine the tactility and noise level.
So..... it's "not" overheating issue when soldering? I'd think that heat could cause the metal clip to Tilt inside the housing if the holes they're stuck into got "HOT."
It's still so unacceptable these costar manufacturers are willing to put these bad switches in the keyboards and sell it off. I'm mainly talking about coolermaster because they need to get their QC in check for selling a bunch of broken keyboards.
It's still so unacceptable these costar manufacturers are willing to put these bad switches in the keyboards and sell it off. I'm mainly talking about coolermaster because they need to get their QC in check for selling a bunch of broken keyboards.
I spoke about this elsewhere, but basically, quality control is a HUGE problem in China.
I know a few who have done manufacturing there and it's like working with the mafia. The phrase "buyer beware" has never been more true.
Basically if you don't specify EXACTLY what you want, for every step of the way, otherwise you can pretty much expect a sub-par product every time. They know it, and they also know that as soon as you leave, another company will be knocking and looking for cheap manufacturing.
You could order a standardized grade 8 bolt, and the manufacturer will buy grade 5 material and label it grade 8, this you expect. However, what often happens is that when the manufacturer asked for grade 5, the supplier sold him grade 3.
Scarily enough, this is actually what has happened in the North American aviation industry. Boxes of these fake bolts got into the supply lines.
I spoke about this elsewhere, but basically, quality control is a HUGE problem in China.
I know a few who have done manufacturing there and it's like working with the mafia. The phrase "buyer beware" has never been more true.
Basically if you don't specify EXACTLY what you want, for every step of the way, otherwise you can pretty much expect a sub-par product every time. They know it, and they also know that as soon as you leave, another company will be knocking and looking for cheap manufacturing.
You could order a standardized grade 8 bolt, and the manufacturer will buy grade 5 material and label it grade 8, this you expect. However, what often happens is that when the manufacturer asked for grade 5, the supplier sold him grade 3.
Scarily enough, this is actually what has happened in the North American aviation industry. Boxes of these fake bolts got into the supply lines.
Now THAT is something to think about... Not even funny when you think about it...
This is because of the legal system in China...
In China... For the most part, you can't sue the owners of the industries because they essentially own the courts as well.
In the USA you can sue the SHizzznitz out of a dog that barked at you funny... This is not to say that the RICH doesn't own the court, but the system has become convoluted enough such that you can't get away with as much...
This is because of the legal system in China...
In China... For the most part, you can't sue the owners of the industries because they essentially own the courts as well.
In the USA you can sue the SHizzznitz out of a dog that barked at you funny... This is not to say that the RICH doesn't own the court, but the system has become convoluted enough such that you can't get away with as much...
Any comments on the China vs. Taiwan?
Same country bro... same policies... they can call it a democracy all they want... that doesn't make it true...
Also... China has a very very loose accounting standard...
I have friends that applied for accounting work in China...
Basically,, if you're an accountant who "Don't know" how to cook books, they won't hire you.
so someone needs to open a switch company that manufactures them in the US. btw i spoke to diatec and they refuse to RMA for this problem or for my number row grinding against the body of the keyboard. they said they would swap out the switches if i send it to tokyo but im waiting to see if they will just send the switches to me.
Same country bro... same policies... they can call it a democracy all they want... that doesn't make it true...
Also... China has a very very loose accounting standard...
I have friends that applied for accounting work in China...
Basically,, if you're an accountant who "Don't know" how to cook books, they won't hire you.
Lol, I wasn't really asking about the political stance of the two countries but more so if Taiwan's manufacturing was the same as Mainland China's in terms of poor quality control but, assuming from your tone, you were answering that simultaneously. Didn't really know about the accounting thing though :P
so someone needs to open a switch company that manufactures them in the US. btw i spoke to diatec and they refuse to RMA for this problem or for my number row grinding against the body of the keyboard. they said they would swap out the switches if i send it to tokyo but im waiting to see if they will just send the switches to me.It would be cheaper to hire someone here to just do it for you.
Show Image(http://gifrific.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/Boy-That-Escalated-Quickly-Anchorman.gif)
But on a more realistic note,
I'm thinking Taiwanese products are slightly better than Chinese. I mean, it wouldn't be a huge margin but there should be a noticeable difference. Ultimately, it just depends on who you get your stuff from. Apple has Foxconn which apparently still produces good stuff so to generalize everything isn't always the best approach.
It would be cheaper to hire someone here to just do it for you.
By the time you figure time and shipping expense.
so someone needs to open a switch company that manufactures them in the US. btw i spoke to diatec and they refuse to RMA for this problem or for my number row grinding against the body of the keyboard. they said they would swap out the switches if i send it to tokyo but im waiting to see if they will just send the switches to me.
Where did you buy, amazon?
so someone needs to open a switch company that manufactures them in the US. btw i spoke to diatec and they refuse to RMA for this problem or for my number row grinding against the body of the keyboard. they said they would swap out the switches if i send it to tokyo but im waiting to see if they will just send the switches to me.It would be cheaper to hire someone here to just do it for you.
By the time you figure time and shipping expense.
It would be cheaper to hire someone here to just do it for you.
By the time you figure time and shipping expense.
I spoke about this elsewhere, but basically, quality control is a HUGE problem in China.
I know a few who have done manufacturing there and it's like working with the mafia. The phrase "buyer beware" has never been more true.
Basically if you don't specify EXACTLY what you want, for every step of the way, otherwise you can pretty much expect a sub-par product every time. They know it, and they also know that as soon as you leave, another company will be knocking and looking for cheap manufacturing.
You could order a standardized grade 8 bolt, and the manufacturer will buy grade 5 material and label it grade 8, this you expect. However, what often happens is that when the manufacturer asked for grade 5, the supplier sold him grade 3.
Scarily enough, this is actually what has happened in the North American aviation industry. Boxes of these fake bolts got into the supply lines.
Now THAT is something to think about... Not even funny when you think about it...
On another note, you say "China" but does that include Taiwan?
I was transferring my Jailhouse Blues from my Race to my Filco last night and had a chance to experiment with this issue.
I had nearly new Blue stems and a complete set of brand new switch housings that had never been installed.
Out of 90 housings, 3 of them had no tactile feel to them, and unless the tactile bump works, you will not get the click sound as it's what fires the bottom half of the switch down to make the click sound. No matter what stem or top I used, they simply wouldn't work properly. Some also had more feel than others, and again, switching the stem and tops changed nothing, it was only the housing/base that mattered.
Looking inside the switch, they appear perfectly fine, but it turns out that the difference between working and not is extremely small, less than 1mm. Sometimes you can see it, sometimes you can't.
It's a manufacturing issue, specifically how the gold piece is inserted into the plastic.
Depending on how it's placed, will also determine the tactility and noise level.
What, you think that a narrow strip of water actually makes the least bit of difference?
HA!
Oh wait. You were serious. You actually believe that Taiwan is magically better than China despite the same people running the same companies with the same ethics and just occasionally changing the name. You so silly.
Yes. Because obviously a keyboard labeled as 'from Taiwan' wasn't made in China even though it was actually made in mainland China and just passed through Taiwan. And obviously Hon Hai Precision Industry, a Taiwanese company, is not the same as Foxco-OH WAIT, THEY ARE ONE AND THE SAME.
Also, Cherry switches are manufactured in EUROPE. Not China. IIRC ZF Electronics AKA Cherry switch manufacturing is still out of Bayreuth, Germany.
Until then, I will probably not attempt to buy another Cherry MX blue equipped keyboard. At least not from QPAD, Razor, Cooler Master, Filco or DAS (avoiding Costar and iOne). 50 million clicks... What a joke!
Not to worry. Matias has some well made clicky Alps worthy of your dollars.
Lol... Anyone sensing some anger here? I'm kind of at a loss. You assume so many things from my simple question... All I did was ask if Taiwanese companies like Filco had bad quality control like that of some Chinese companies described by Leslieann. That's it. Thanks for answering my question, I guess?
What, you think that a narrow strip of water actually makes the least bit of difference?
HA!
Oh wait. You were serious. You actually believe that Taiwan is magically better than China despite the same people running the same companies with the same ethics and just occasionally changing the name. You so silly.
Yes. Because obviously a keyboard labeled as 'from Taiwan' wasn't made in China even though it was actually made in mainland China and just passed through Taiwan. And obviously Hon Hai Precision Industry, a Taiwanese company, is not the same as Foxco-OH WAIT, THEY ARE ONE AND THE SAME.
Also, Cherry switches are manufactured in EUROPE. Not China. IIRC ZF Electronics AKA Cherry switch manufacturing is still out of Bayreuth, Germany.
Eh, just tired of debunking the complete crap of the 'Made in Taiwan' myth. (Emphasis on myth.) Same as the ridiculous idea that Costar is automatically good and iOne is automatically bad. They hire well educated designers in Taiwan and Hong Kong and Japan and through contractors, then they send the actual manufacturing work to where it's cheap - which could be Taiwan, could be China, could be Indonesia - and still get to slap the 'Made in Taiwan' label on it and call it a day.
Foxconn made these poorly designed low quality motherboards (http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/mainboards/display/foxconn_4.html) and also happens to make the iPhone. Those piles and piles of defective leaky capacitors all came from factories actually located in Taiwan, not mainland China. Delta's plants in mainland China have turned out some of the most beautiful solder work I have ever seen alongside some of the worst.
The 'Made in XYZ' means nothing at all. Either the manufacturer has a solid design, good manufacturing and reliable QC/QA or they don't.