@rowdy : so if I intend to desolder all the keys and add "the_beast" plate , I won't be able to change switches as easily anymore?:(
@jdcarpe: I'm actually going to get a poker in a month or so, and I'm just trying to work out what needs to be done if I want to change the switches, etc. I've always liked the whole "aluminium case/plate" thing so the whole keyboard feels really solid, and I want to find out more about what needs to be done.
Thank You for the photos jdcarpe and of course for the videos WFD. So based on everything I've read thus far, would it be safe to assume that replacing a broken LED would require nothing more than desoldering/soldering a new LED with or without a plate?
Thank You for the photos jdcarpe and of course for the videos WFD. So based on everything I've read thus far, would it be safe to assume that replacing a broken LED would require nothing more than desoldering/soldering a new LED with or without plate?
YOU NEED a SOLDAPULLT... there's no way around this... because these plastic switch housings melt VERY easily... Soldapullt will minimize the risk.
But , it's also to protect the BOARD from overheating,, because the laminate is CHEAAAAAAP
Does that mean that I cannot remove the switches without desoldering even after I have mounted them onto the plate?
If I mount the switches onto the beast plates, I would have to solder the switches back onto the PCB right?
Does that mean that I cannot remove the switches without desoldering even after I have mounted them onto the plate?
Thank You for the photos jdcarpe and of course for the videos WFD. So based on everything I've read thus far, would it be safe to assume that replacing a broken LED would require nothing more than desoldering/soldering a new LED with or without plate?
With stem installed on top of the spring. Yellow arrows point to contacts. Green arrows show the sliders of the stem, which need to be aligned to the same side of the switch as the contacts.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/e6H2DB1.jpg)
With stem installed on top of the spring. Yellow arrows point to contacts. Green arrows show the sliders of the stem, which need to be aligned to the same side of the switch as the contacts.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/e6H2DB1.jpg)
As an aside, I'm wondering about terminology.. when people talk about lubing stems, the "sliders" actually refer to the parts jutting out on the sides of the stem, and not what the green arrows point at, right?
Probably could be good to clarify to know whether I lubed mine in the wrong places, or in case someone reading this might be putting lube in a place they're not supposed to in the future.
I think you did yours right. I didn't know what to call the little angled part with the hump (on that brown stem), so I called it a slider, since it slides in contact with the gold crosspoint electrical contacts. I think you only need to lube those flat parts on the sides and maybe the spring. I've not done any lubing yet.
I use my own "7-point" lube technique, with 2 separate types of lube for different points. I've done a few keyboards like this. It adds another hour or two to the process, but if you're meticulous about keyboards, then you should do that too. The guild by MMB does not go over all 7 points, only about half them.
It's hard to describe in words where those points are, so I made a video of the process. I just need to be more motivated to edit and upload all my videos :/
You Are Motivated ! Now Upload All Your Videos !
:p :p
I really want to see though
@jdcarpe: But the poker does not have a "top casing" right..? That means the switch can be opened up with or without 'the_beast' plate, am I right?
@whitefiredragon: I just saw your nano silver video, I too work in a lab haha. When you said your universal TKL plate, do you mean that you've made some plates that allows opening switches without desoldering the switch? Do you have those for sale?
You Are Motivated ! Now Upload All Your Videos !
:p :p
I really want to see though
Why does it matter. I'm building all your keyboards anyways haha. Videos is not very high up on my priority list right now, but it'll eventually get done.
I use my own "7-point" lube technique, with 2 separate types of lube for different points. I've done a few keyboards like this. It adds another hour or two to the process, but if you're meticulous about keyboards, then you should do that too. The guild by MMB does not go over all 7 points, only about half them.Are some of those points the stem's "leaf contacts" that jdcarpe pointed to with the green arrows? I've been under the assumption that those are the exact places you don't want to get lubricant on, but it would be great to know whether that's really true.
It's hard to describe in words where those points are, so I made a video of the process. I just need to be more motivated to edit and upload all my videos :/
I use my own "7-point" lube technique, with 2 separate types of lube for different points. I've done a few keyboards like this. It adds another hour or two to the process, but if you're meticulous about keyboards, then you should do that too. The guild by MMB does not go over all 7 points, only about half them.
It's hard to describe in words where those points are, so I made a video of the process. I just need to be more motivated to edit and upload all my videos :/
Are some of those points the stem's "leaf contacts" that jdcarpe pointed to with the green arrows? I've been under the assumption that those are the exact places you don't want to get lubricant on, but it would be great to know whether that's really true.