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geekhack Community => Keyboards => Topic started by: tp4tissue on Sun, 27 January 2013, 20:03:54
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Took apart an affected switch.. Figured it out.. Fixed it, but it's time consuming vs replacement cost of $0.50.
The CAUSE is the 2 prong leaf spring..
It is in essence the "spring" that pushes the white slider downwards to make the "click" sound.
Depending on how "far" the leaf is "crimped", it will have "more/less" spring tension..
The affected switches have less tension in the 2 prong leaf than the unaffected switch..
I know this, because I fixed a switch, by pushing the leaf "toward the stem a little, and inserting a very slightly wider pin between the arches where it's crimped..
Now, Would I ever bother doing this fix, vs "buying" a new switch... Heck no.. Buying a new switch is cheaper than the labor invovled...
But now we know WHY, some blue switches don't click as loudly/ at all. :D
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My noppoo choc mini and my Filco with blues have one no clicky blue switch and both ofc plate mounted :(
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My noppoo choc mini and my Filco with blues have one no clicky blue switch and both ofc plate mounted :(
try the fix then, push the leaf forward very slightly
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Or, if going to the trouble of desoldering the switch, just replace it with a known good new switch.
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Or, if going to the trouble of desoldering the switch, just replace it with a known good new switch.
well if you're on a pcb mounted though, You can go ahead and just push the leaf forward a bit, and that should fix it... save you some trouble.. but it's not like desoldering 1 switch is going to be that much greater an investment time wise.
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If on a PCB-mounted keyboard, then yes, this would be one approach that would save having to desolder the switch, and if it doesn't wor hey, just desolder and replace anyway.
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Did keypresses still register, even when it wasn't clicking?
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Did keypresses still register, even when it wasn't clicking?
Yes, they registered. completely functional key.. However, the tension in the leaf is "not enough" to snap the white slider piece down to make the "click" :'(
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I see, interesting.
A little OT, but I ask because I'm trying to figure out what makes vintage blacks feel smoother than modern blacks. Some say it's because the stems are made of different material, and others say it's because they're worn down. Recently I've heard something about Cherry putting lubricant in older switches, on both the stem and the housing, which may be a reason why it felt less smooth when moving vintage stems into modern housing.
I noticed today that when I put modern blue stems into vintage housing, the clicks were a lot quieter. This might still be due to the lubricant, but maybe another possible explanation for the smoothness might be due to the leaf contact being pushed in a little more.
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I see, interesting.
A little OT, but I ask because I'm trying to figure out what makes vintage blacks feel smoother than modern blacks. Some say it's because the stems are made of different material, and others say it's because they're worn down. Recently I've heard something about Cherry putting lubricant in older switches, on both the stem and the housing, which may be a reason why it felt less smooth when moving vintage stems into modern housing.
I noticed today that when I put modern blue stems into vintage housing, the clicks were a lot quieter. So maybe another explanation for the smoothness might be due to the leaf contact being pushed in a little more.
this is probably true... with less leaf tension,, ALONG with worn black stem,, it should be extra smooth.
on top of that the two prongs that contact the numbs on the stem, are also worn smooth..
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Could you explain the fix a little more please? i didn't understand :(
"I know this, because I fixed a switch, by pushing the leaf "toward the stem a little, and inserting a very slightly wider pin between the arches where it's crimped.."
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Pictor :D
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On the other hand, something I've learned is that if you ever experience "stickiness" with blues or any non-linear switches, or even hangups (especially in the case of ergo clears), it might be because the contact is too far towards the stem.. my solution was to just swap out the bottom housing with those from other switches.
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On the other hand, something I've learned is that if you ever experience "stickiness" with blues or any non-linear switches, or even hangups (especially in the case of ergo clears), it might be because the contact is too far towards the stem.. my solution was to just swap out the bottom housing with those from other switches.
If you're in capacity to swap out the housing, it'd be better to just swap the whole thing...
I only posted to explain the problem, but the fix itself I mentioned is more costly time wise than full replacement.