Last weekend I created a first attempt at a wooden Poker case. It's far from perfect, but for a first attempt I think it's not bad. Makes the Poker feel a lot more solid, reduces overall typing noise (the case doesn't sound as hollow as the plastic on) and looks very cool in white combined with my white ds set.
It's based on layers of thin 0.5 cm high 0.6 cm thick planks stacked on a 0.5 cm base plate. Then for pcb support there are planks below the pcb that support the pcb. I don't have a good solution for the screws yet (they are too long and not supported from the bottom) or for feet. Everything is glued.
Here are some images:Show Image(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-gIC5N0wPTjg/URvu6VHqZ7I/AAAAAAAABM0/2xVwjO-cdXE/s566/20130213_203855.jpg)
Looks pretty good from up top.
What do you guys think?Show Image(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Gt_24G8q7D0/URvu47ubipI/AAAAAAAABMc/w8vAmcKXg8U/s566/20130213_203912.jpg)
The sides need improvement for the next iteration. The plan for the next side is to build the layers thicker then needed and then make a clean cut once assembled.Show Image(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-uvHTwY0VtM4/URvu5lPRmtI/AAAAAAAABMk/TqHGOn2FEsQ/s566/20130213_203937.jpg)
Screw coming out the back a little bc they are too long. Looking for replacements for the next iteration.Show Image(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-MeV60lrfFJk/URvu6OYZPpI/AAAAAAAABMs/Kwwr_4Dtl30/s566/20130213_204216.jpg)
Inside of the case, with pcb support and usb hole in the upper right corner. The inside isn't painted very well but then again you don't usually see it so I didn't try very hard.
Painted with a primer by brush twice then with white acryl spray.
Next iteration is probably going to be a couple of weeks since I don't have the required equipment at my apartment.Quote
Since then I have made some more improvements to this case:Show Image(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-mVtyPZCXxTM/USAPKPdLw4I/AAAAAAAABN4/YZXby_1HOFU/s640/20130216_233340.jpg)
Added some support around the three main screws with lock nuts (they are way to big for the screws, just there for support of the pcb since they are the same height as the wood supports) and more supports around the edges and in the corners. Still looking for a better solution for the screws for the next case, but for now this setup feels rock solid.Show Image(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-MxnuBTUCir0/USAPK63J6XI/AAAAAAAABOI/JT-n1zniFIs/s640/20130216_233356.jpg)
Also added some feet for the case so that it is now tilted at roughly the same angle as a normal poker (though a little higher overall). Both are plastic which slides very easily. For me this is ideal since I move my board around a lot and I don't like rubber feet.
When I do the next case I will take more pictures and make a little tutorial :)
Hope you guys like it :D
That is pretty awesome, I would love for you to make one for me :) dibs on first :p
I think it would look even better if you used some different kinds of wood, with a cool stain!
That is pretty awesome, I would love for you to make one for me :) dibs on first :p
I think it would look even better if you used some different kinds of wood, with a cool stain!
Mmh, what I used for this one was 0,5 cm thick composite wood (not sure if that is the correct term for it). It is incredibly ugly but very strong, which is why I painted it. I am also not sure if I will be able to make enough of them to sell them, since I don't have any of the required tools at my apartment. So I can only make new ones when visiting my parents (my dad has a nice workshop in the basement). Next time I'm there, I will play around with some alternatives maybe some nicer wood, too.
That case is really sweet. You should talk to The_Beast for any woodworking tips.
The case I'm working on now, it should be easily adapted for wood ^_____^
The case I'm working on now, it should be easily adapted for wood ^_____^
Are you saying it gives you wood?
That case is really sweet. You should talk to The_Beast for any woodworking tips.
The case I'm working on now, it should be easily adapted for wood ^_____^
That case is really sweet. You should talk to The_Beast for any woodworking tips.
The case I'm working on now, it should be easily adapted for wood ^_____^
That was easier than I thought. It's fun to randomly summon people. Beast, when are we seeing prototypes of the wood case?
I came in expecting to see some sexy wood grain. :(Oof that would be a very large casting (for DIY).
I'm sure it's a vast improvement, a solid chassis can really firm up and quiet down a keyboard, in which case, composite is actually good choice. Nice work, TDub, defintely a good start.
Makes me wonder about doing one for my Race (Walnut maybe), would be nicer than plexi, cheaper than aluminum and easier to work with. I've been looking into casting one from aluminum or resin as well.
I came in expecting to see some sexy wood grain. :(
I'm sure it's a vast improvement, a solid chassis can really firm up and quiet down a keyboard, in which case, composite is actually good choice. Nice work, TDub, defintely a good start.
Makes me wonder about doing one for my Race (Walnut maybe), would be nicer than plexi, cheaper than aluminum and easier to work with. I've been looking into casting one from aluminum or resin as well.
Oof that would be a very large casting (for DIY).
This got me thinking about maybe making a concrete case. I have been looking at pouring concrete candle holders for my wife, so I have seen thin pours before, but not sure how strong it would be. Anyone have any thoughts?It;s a good idea what could work well too, problem is that dye for concrete is very expensive to obtain (I looked for countertops and it was about a $200 minimum order per color), so you would likely be stuck painting. Otherwise concrete could be pretty cool actually.
That case is really sweet. You should talk to The_Beast for any woodworking tips.
The case I'm working on now, it should be easily adapted for wood ^_____^
I came in expecting to see some sexy wood grain. :(
I'm sure it's a vast improvement, a solid chassis can really firm up and quiet down a keyboard, in which case, composite is actually good choice. Nice work, TDub, defintely a good start.
Makes me wonder about doing one for my Race (Walnut maybe), would be nicer than plexi, cheaper than aluminum and easier to work with. I've been looking into casting one from aluminum or resin as well.
Anyone know where I can get the exact dimensions the case would need to be to house a poker? Maybe even where the screws need to go? I would measure mine, but it hasn't arrived yet and I would like to get a headstart... Thanks!
I came in expecting to see some sexy wood grain. :(
Well I think the most important part is the support for the pcb, because if the pcb bounces or bends the case pretty much sucks. I glued slim pieces of wood (0,5cm wide and high) to the base of the case to support the pcb. I also made sure that no diodes or other electronics sit on top of the support. I will probably have time to post some more pictures tonight and more explanations about how I made the new cases.
Your wish is my command:Looks great!
This adds depth to your case, but maybe thinking about using a dado joint and a floating panel for the bottom. Just make sure that you make you panel a bit smaller than the dado so that it floats freely (in all directions) and don't glue it it place when you're gluing the miters. This will allow the panel to expand and contract without breaking your case. By using this method, your bottom panel doesn't need to be nearly as exact since the joint will be hiding any mistakes.
Here's what I mean when I say dado:
http://www.craftsmanspace.com/sites/default/files/free-knowledge-articles/through_dado_joint.gif
Also, something cool to add that will strength those miter joints is re-enforcing them with a thin piece of wood cut into the corners like this:
http://www.wooden-box-maker.com/images/miter-and-spline.jpg
It looks cool and makes the case stronger since miter joints are kinda weak to begin with
Hope this helps :D
This adds depth to your case, but maybe thinking about using a dado joint and a floating panel for the bottom. Just make sure that you make you panel a bit smaller than the dado so that it floats freely (in all directions) and don't glue it it place when you're gluing the miters. This will allow the panel to expand and contract without breaking your case. By using this method, your bottom panel doesn't need to be nearly as exact since the joint will be hiding any mistakes.
Here's what I mean when I say dado:
http://www.craftsmanspace.com/sites/default/files/free-knowledge-articles/through_dado_joint.gif
Also, something cool to add that will strength those miter joints is re-enforcing them with a thin piece of wood cut into the corners like this:
http://www.wooden-box-maker.com/images/miter-and-spline.jpg
It looks cool and makes the case stronger since miter joints are kinda weak to begin with
Hope this helps :D
Thx Beast, I like both ideas, especially the small wood pieces in the corners. I will definitely be doing more cases, so I might try those on the next one. I really want to make a case with an integrated wrist wrest at some point. I have an idea of how it would work, but the problem is always the base plate. I was going to screw or glue it to the bottom and just make it a little smaller then the walls so you don't see it from up top, but the dado would integrate it into the case much nicer.
Btw, the poker is now fully lubed with krytox 205 and the clears just feel so awesome now :)
Now we're talking :) Good work TDub. Next step - wooden keycaps!
You mean for screwing in the pcb? I have the box at home, i'll check tonight.yes the mounting screws (pcb to case).
beautiful! What'd you use for finish?
Now we're talking :) Good work TDub. Next step - wooden keycaps!