New link to CAD files since for some reason I got a tonne of requests lately.
Just a reminder :
This case is fully functional. However, I wouldn't call it good. I cannot recommend that anyone get this made without at least 2 adjustments :
1. It is way too tall at the front. You should change it to be 20mm at the most, otherwise it'll be very uncomfortable.
2. It is designed for the Phantom PCB. This PCB was made specifically to replace Filco PCBs, and as such it is NOT a good PCB for using in a fully custom keyboard. You should adapt this case to work with a B87, GON, or similar PCB.
This is a good start, pretty impressive considering that you just picked up CAD on the spot.
Some things to think about:
- How will you do a fit test? As you may already know, the Phantom uses a teensy controller and the location is behind the PCB. Depending on the builder's skills, the teensy controller will use more/less space. Be sure you have a way to take account for this. The best way to understand more would be to get your hands on a Phantom right now. That way you won't have to wait 3 months more after you receive your PCB to finish building your Phantom
- What is your target price range? Obviously it'd be cool to own a fancy pants case for your Phantom, but if your design costs $200 will you still go through with it? Keep in mind that you will have to dish out some $$$ just for the prototype alone. The final production cost will likely be heavily influenced by the design of your bottom case. Having a slant like that requires more material to be chopped off, which may not be as cost efficient.
- Plate design. Is your case being designed to fit the existing SS plates that GB's have been using? Or are they using a dedicated plate that will only fit your case (similar to Korean custom keyboards).
- Color. This will have to do with costs too. What did you have in mind for that? I am assuming you are planning to mill aluminum which will require anodizing which you'll probably need a different shop for.
I think that's all I can think of at the top of my head. Also, I don't think the other case design projects are actually stopping. Other stuff might come up so the development slows down, but I'm sure when the project leaders have the time they will work on them. I wish you good luck in your project.
Cost:
Can you clarify what you mean by "cutting"? If I am looking at your bottom case correctly...I don't think it could be cut. I think you'd have to mill the bottom half of your case, which will drive up the machine time and cost. (If anyone else reading the thread can back me up or point out if I'm wrong that'd be great)
Fitting:Sorry about that. When I said cutting I meant milling. I'm new to all this aluminium stuff.. The costs, according to the words I've exchanged with the local miller, shouldn't be too high. I'll know more at a later date though.
Looks like you got it under control with good references, should be fine there.
Cost:
Can you clarify what you mean by "cutting"? If I am looking at your bottom case correctly...I don't think it could be cut. I think you'd have to mill the bottom half of your case, which will drive up the machine time and cost. (If anyone else reading the thread can back me up or point out if I'm wrong that'd be great)
Plate:
Sounds good, from the way you're talking about it, Phantom owners will be responsible for their own plate right?
Color:
Yes, you will have to shop around before deciding on where to get it done. Not a huge priority right now but it will take some research.
Please have a look ... with the analysis you've done you might read it differently ... http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=37432.msg714145#msg714145 (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=37432.msg714145#msg714145) I thought I read in post 10 of the linked thread that the cases were the "same" except the detachable cable vs. fixed cable ... maybe I read too quickly?I'll look into it, and thanks for the link. However, it's pretty hard to tell without having the QFR in front of me.
Completely understood on being too early for finishes. You asked if anyone had other case ideas or feature suggestions, and while finishes are not features, I thought it might be inspiring to someone.
QFR requires repositioning of 2 standoffs, the one under F8 on a Filco is moved to get out of way of the USB connector board. The one near caps lock is also moved a little. Then of course you have to deal with the USB connector board somehow.If this is true then support for the QFR will be out of the question in the time being.
Also would it cost more if you had something etched into it?
Once complete these things will sell like hot cake. I'd suggest small pockets for rubber feet underneath like this:Yeah, I'll be adding spaces for feet, and it's interesting that you mention etching.. I want to make this case personalisable as possible. I want to be able to offer certain customisation options such as having the phantom logo milled into the case, or maybe even a logo or text of your choice. Of course the person would have to pay more for this kind of thing as it would also cost me more to produce, and it may not even be viable at all. I'll find out more about things like that once the design is done. What I want to focus on now is the case itself and non-optional features such as the detachable cable housing. I will work out the fine details at a later date. Thanks for the feedback though.Show Image(http://i630.photobucket.com/albums/uu23/calaveratf/keyboards/DSCF2140_zpsa00c554d.jpg)
Except make it a square big enough so you can put in just about any size rubber feet bumpons that are available. Like 1"x 1" may be?
Also would it cost more if you had something etched into it?
I think micro USB would be better. It's just better that mini. And USB is a harder cable to come by these days.How come micro is better than USB? I would probably be more likely to use a mini since every keyboard I've seen with a detachable cable has a mini usb port. Because of this I reckon more people will have custom mini-usb cables, and I don't want to stop them from being able to use it.
I didn't say it was better than USB, just that it was better than mini USB. Although I do think it is better than USB because it is a smaller and cleaner connection. But it's better than mini because it's smaller, sturdier, and has a higher disconnect capability than mini.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Universal_Serial_Bus#Mini_and_Micro_connectors
Regular size USB doesn't work since it's so damned big, not easy to stick in a keyboard where you have minimal bezel size.
mini USB can be painful because you are supposed to engineer the housing to supply the vast majority of physical support.
micro USB provides some improvement to mini, but primarily by making it easier for the housing to provide the physical support.
Awesome work man!
Congrats!
I'll follow this thread too ...
Looks great so far! Highly interested in this. I really hope this becomes a sure thing. :DThanks!
I would add Standoffs at the center, just to keep the board well fixed.I can't do that. There are four holes in the PCB for the existing standoffs, however there are no holes for any other standoffs.
But I think it's just me ...
Now just add a beveled edge to the bottom, both front and back, and you have a nice profile there. At least the back, if you don't like the front bottom edge beveled. :)I don't quite follow. Do you mean something like this? Sorry for the crappy drawing.
Will follow for sure, I want to make my first keyboard special. Will purchase one for sure if it's around or lower than the cost of the Vortex case. This thread makes me giddy.I really do hope that I'll be able to sell it for a reasonable price. My primary aim is to keep the cost low and the quality high.
I don't quite follow. Do you mean something like this? Sorry for the crappy drawing.
Sorry, newbie and dummie question: winkeyless is okay, but what this 7bit in the name means?
You actually use that layout on a regular basis, dirge? I don't know how anyone can type with those small spacebars like that.I can type on the small spacebars, but it's awkward for me because there's a gap where I like to put my thumb.
You actually use that layout on a regular basis, dirge? I don't know how anyone can type with those small spacebars like that.I can type on the small spacebars, but it's awkward for me because there's a gap where I like to put my thumb.
About this case: I think it's an excellent idea, and there's lots of good thinking about case designs, etc. Here's my small contribution:
I'd like the keyboard to be attached via removable standoffs, so you can place ones for filco, qfr, etc. You just screw them into the case, and then screw the PCB onto them. I think this is a much more modular/personizable solution than having them be part of the case.
Ofcourse, to do this, you'd probably need a different pattern for the bottom (I don't know how easy it would be to get standoffs in different/custom heights, so you might need some "bases" that they would rest on, or just mill the inside surface of the case at the angle.
I'm not sure I'm explaining this right. I cancome up with a drawing tonight if necessary.
What CAD are you using? I'm considering getting qcad free working, but I need a linux distro with KDE. Maybe I'll install it to a flashdrive.
Or this could be a solution:Thanks for the link. I was looking at something similar about 10 minutes ago and it looks like it could work.
http://www.kbdmania.net/xe/index.php?mid=photo&page=3&document_srl=6172970
I don't know the details but if those small micro usb pcb is available, then soldering the cable shouldn't be too hard.
Edit: Not a big fan of the bottom rear edge like that.
I should elaborate on the rear angle.Show Image(http://i630.photobucket.com/albums/uu23/calaveratf/keyboards/cab_zps907fede2.jpg)
Because of the angle of the rear, the usb cable will be "shooting up" (black rectangle in pic) which I personally find a little annoying.
If it were shaped like the red line it wouldn't be as bad. Also cutting less into the bottom makes the keyboard feel more grounded visually as well as add more weight.
It might cause problems inside with the PCB and/or plate mount so may be it can't be 90 degrees like that but you get my point.
Does that angle necessarily mean that it will angle upwards? Couldn't you design the case to have a groove in it? Either on the top or bottom portion of the case?Which angle are you referring to? The plate and pcb will be mounted at a 6 degree angle, and because of this so will the case. For reference the filco is around 5 degrees with the feet up and around 10 degrees with the feet down.
Looks good, a few things you may want to consider...
Filco uses a steel plate with a bend at the edges to considerably stiffen the plate, the standoffs simply hold the plate up, they don't add any structural support. The case is too flimsy to do much. This was why Vortex went with the design they did and why Korean boards use plates with tabs that are screwed in along the top and bottom edge, it's all done to add stiffness and support to the plate.
I would be concerned that mounting a flat plate and using a couple standoffs would result in flex or warping over long term use. Using standoffs to push the pcb which pushes the pate can work, but it can also stress the pcb. Note that the Filco pcb actually hangs and floats under the plate. As does almost every plate keyboard I have seen. That isn't to say it won't work, but considering it costs more to bend a plate than it does to add a few plastic standoffs, there is a reason they do it.
Another issue I can see is going to be cost.
Vortex gets away with the relatively deep bottom because they cast it roughly to shape, then mill it. You on the other hand will be paying for a very thick, heavy chunk of metal and spend a long time milling it out. This is why many designs use multiple plates milled out, or are much more shallow. This allows for less mill time, and the use of cheaper, thinner plates.
Just FYI, if you take this to a shop, I believe that Solidworks will not output a .dwg file. Most shops prefer the .dwg file which is from AutoCad. I know The_Beast had to remake his drawings in AutoCad because of this.Thanks for the heads up. It'd be a pain to have to redo it but I know every measurement off by heart at this point so it shouldn't take too long :p
A simple call to the shop before hand will save you the hassle of remaking the file. :PI haven't been remaking it a lot, I've just been adjusting it a lot. I also spent a hell of a long time getting the standoff measurements right so I know them. I'll check with the shop tomorrow.
Also, you've been remaking the file a lot?
Just FYI, if you take this to a shop, I believe that Solidworks will not output a .dwg file. Most shops prefer the .dwg file which is from AutoCad. I know The_Beast had to remake his drawings in AutoCad because of this.Turns out that you can export as a DWG in solidworks just fine, unless there is some difference between a dwg from solidworks and a dwg from autocad that I'm not aware of.
I know what you mean, but I really can't see another mounting method that will support both the stock filco plate and the universal tkl/phantom plate. Besides, I'm fairly confident that the two screws will hold the plate in place and do a good job of reducing flex. I'm aware of the fact that the pcb hangs under the plate, and this will do the exact same. Think of this case as an aluminium replica of the filco case but with a few extra features. Also, I have a universal tkl plate right in front of me and it definitely isn't flimsy.. You need to put a fair amount of force on it in order to flex it.It's not just flex, two screws may hold it, and it may be stiff enough (I would question long term on aluminum plates), that doesn't mean it's going to resist vibration. I suspect the "ping" people hear on Filcos and some other boards is related to this. Hold your Uni plate various ways while tapping with your fingernail and you will see what I mean. It's one reason why my Vortex is stuffed with foam. Less vibration means less noise.
I think you're right. After thinking about it I realised that it would probably end up being cheaper with a new plate and no standoffs than it would be with the current design. It's actually easier on my end to design it this way too. My only worry is that some people might not want to have to install a new plate. I'll keep the old design, but I'll make a new one with a new plate and see how it goes.I know what you mean, but I really can't see another mounting method that will support both the stock filco plate and the universal tkl/phantom plate. Besides, I'm fairly confident that the two screws will hold the plate in place and do a good job of reducing flex. I'm aware of the fact that the pcb hangs under the plate, and this will do the exact same. Think of this case as an aluminium replica of the filco case but with a few extra features. Also, I have a universal tkl plate right in front of me and it definitely isn't flimsy.. You need to put a fair amount of force on it in order to flex it.It's not just flex, two screws may hold it, and it may be stiff enough (I would question long term on aluminum plates), that doesn't mean it's going to resist vibration. I suspect the "ping" people hear on Filcos and some other boards is related to this. Hold your Uni plate various ways while tapping with your fingernail and you will see what I mean. It's one reason why my Vortex is stuffed with foam. Less vibration means less noise.
Above all though, why compromise? It's meant to be a top notch case, why not make a plate and proper mounting system. People here drop $100 on keycaps, but are too cheap to spend another $20-$30 to get a plate that matches their $200 case?
solidworks can export/convert to almost any file format. But converting sometimes is not as good as the original, depending on which format you convert it to. For example, some formats won't allow you to save the design tree or history. I had a hard time making the exported dwg file to work with Mastercam2000, even though I specified the correct version.Just FYI, if you take this to a shop, I believe that Solidworks will not output a .dwg file. Most shops prefer the .dwg file which is from AutoCad. I know The_Beast had to remake his drawings in AutoCad because of this.Turns out that you can export as a DWG in solidworks just fine, unless there is some difference between a dwg from solidworks and a dwg from autocad that I'm not aware of.
solidworks can export/convert to almost any file format. But converting sometimes is not as good as the original, depending on which format you convert it to. For example, some formats won't allow you to save the design tree or history. I had a hard time making the exported dwg file to work with Mastercam2000, even though I specified the correct version.Just FYI, if you take this to a shop, I believe that Solidworks will not output a .dwg file. Most shops prefer the .dwg file which is from AutoCad. I know The_Beast had to remake his drawings in AutoCad because of this.Turns out that you can export as a DWG in solidworks just fine, unless there is some difference between a dwg from solidworks and a dwg from autocad that I'm not aware of.
Here's my input on this. Every single feature you put in will add extra cost to the process. Even 1 extra fillet, chamfer, or hole. I've seen some intricate designs for a simple concept (non keyboard related), and the quote for it was several thousand dollars lol. So when you design it, just keep in mind how they're going to manufacture it and how many steps it will take.
When the design is done the people that are going to be doing the milling will go over the design with me and tell me where I can cut on costs. The case will probably end up having no fillets whatsoever inside. At the moment I'm just.. well.. making the ideal case I guess.
Little things to think about now when you're designing it: it must be thick enough for screws and threads. The side walls must be thicker than screw heads, and if you're going to use removable standoffs, the bottom must be thick enough to have threads that won't go all the way through. There are only a limited choice on standoffs and I only found this out after designing my case. The standoff length and thread length that I designed the case for, was not available.
Don't worry I'll be making sure that all screws have the space they need.
Lastly, it looks like you extruded the base, then used the shell feature. Since the very bottom of the base is not on the same plane as the plate, the standoff or threads will have to be angled. This won't be as easy to mill out or thread, so you might have to change the way you extrude, shell, or extrude cut.
One less thing I have to worry about with the new design. :Psolidworks can export/convert to almost any file format. But converting sometimes is not as good as the original, depending on which format you convert it to. For example, some formats won't allow you to save the design tree or history. I had a hard time making the exported dwg file to work with Mastercam2000, even though I specified the correct version.Just FYI, if you take this to a shop, I believe that Solidworks will not output a .dwg file. Most shops prefer the .dwg file which is from AutoCad. I know The_Beast had to remake his drawings in AutoCad because of this.Turns out that you can export as a DWG in solidworks just fine, unless there is some difference between a dwg from solidworks and a dwg from autocad that I'm not aware of.
Please consider also an ISO plateDon't worry. I'll be making iso 1.5 and 1.25, ansi 1.5 and 1.25 as well as 7bit plates. Just need to get the general plate layout finalised first.
Please consider also an ISO plateDon't worry. I'll be making iso 1.5 and 1.25, ansi 1.5 and 1.25 as well as 7bit plates. Just need to get the general plate layout finalised first.
Btw is there any interest in an ansi or iso layout but with the spaces for keys about the arrows like on the 7bit?
And now some eye candy..
You actually use that layout on a regular basis, dirge? I don't know how anyone can type with those small spacebars like that.Not my daily driver, I break it out now and again to play games.
And now some eye candy..
That looks like a KMAC.
The tabs on the sides of the plate don't have to be the same size as the top and bottom ones do they? Can you make the bezels (sides at least) slimmer?
For LED's I would recommend the same I said in another thread similar to this... Mill pinholes. If you want LED's they will shine through, if you don't, you just see two small black dots where they would be.That seems like a great idea. The current one could be easily adjusted to fit that design too. I'll try and find out which one is more cost effective at a later date, when it's a bit closer to being ready for a prototype.
An alternative method on the case design...
It's a bit unconventional, but something I thought about a while back. It makes the top a little more expensive, but the rest of it would actually be much cheaper (I would think) to produce.
Recess the plate into the top, you have to mill the top and bottom of the top regardless of what you do, so do most of your milling here. If you make the bottom 2 piece like The Cheat, the middle piece can be milled in a single operation, from the underside. You don't have to flip it, or spend a long time hogging out the center, you can laser it out or mill it out in a chunk. Being 2 piece it also means you can use thinner stock, allows multiple color options and most of the work could even be laser cut instead of milled. The bottom plate as well can be milled in a single operation from thin stock, as well as laser cut initially or entirely. On the second pic, the bottom plate is recessed and could be entirely laser cut, but requires thicker stock on the center section to cover the ends.
On this design, you also don't need "tabs" on the plate, just leave it as a straight edge and let the top and bottom clamp it in between them while passing the screws through it. This would reinforce the heck out of the top plate., just leave a small lip on the top to hide it.
Quickly edited in Photoshop so you will have to forgive the imprecision. LOL
Again, just an alternative. Looks great so far though and I would buy either design.
WFD I have a related question. Have you ever had issues with the board flexing when it's being lasered? Like the heat generated caused a plate to warp?
Or this could be a solution:
http://www.kbdmania.net/xe/index.php?mid=photo&page=3&document_srl=6172970 (http://www.kbdmania.net/xe/index.php?mid=photo&page=3&document_srl=6172970)
I don't know the details but if those small micro usb pcb is available, then soldering the cable shouldn't be too hard.
I think you're right. After thinking about it I realised that it would probably end up being cheaper with a new plate and no standoffs than it would be with the current design. It's actually easier on my end to design it this way too. My only worry is that some people might not want to have to install a new plate. I'll keep the old design, but I'll make a new one with a new plate and see how it goes.
WFD I have a related question. Have you ever had issues with the board flexing when it's being lasered? Like the heat generated caused a plate to warp?
It's not going to cause the whole sheet to bend, but there will be some local warping right where the laser shoots at. Stainless steel seems to be more resistant to this than aluminum.Or this could be a solution:
http://www.kbdmania.net/xe/index.php?mid=photo&page=3&document_srl=6172970 (http://www.kbdmania.net/xe/index.php?mid=photo&page=3&document_srl=6172970)
I don't know the details but if those small micro usb pcb is available, then soldering the cable shouldn't be too hard.
These are called "breakout" boards. There are many variants so it shouldn't be hard to source. Something like this:
http://www.robotshop.com/sfe-usb-microb-breakout-board.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=base&utm_campaign=jos (http://www.robotshop.com/sfe-usb-microb-breakout-board.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=base&utm_campaign=jos)I think you're right. After thinking about it I realised that it would probably end up being cheaper with a new plate and no standoffs than it would be with the current design. It's actually easier on my end to design it this way too. My only worry is that some people might not want to have to install a new plate. I'll keep the old design, but I'll make a new one with a new plate and see how it goes.
If you're not going to do standoffs anymore, then it'll need a new custom plate to fit the case. Most people do not have desoldering equipment to transfer the PCB and switches to the new plate. I just know this will be a huge turn-off for many people.
The original micro wasn't as tough, the newer stronger ones I don't think have really trickled down yet.Really? I was aware that the housing around the connector can be broken quite easily by a cable being moved, but I didn't think the connector itself breaking was all that common. I'll look into this, although I would personally prefer micro over mini. In the past I've had far too many problems with the mini usb connector coming out when I don't want it to. I very much doubt I'll have the same problem with micro.
It's not connect and disconnects that worries me, it's the movement of the cable. I can point you to numerous cell phones where the connector has been damaged through cables being moved and bumped or slightly out of spec cables messing them up severely, the HTC Evo 4g is well known for this problem.
Really? I was aware that the housing around the connector can be broken quite easily by a cable being moved, but I didn't think the connector itself breaking was all that common. I'll look into this, although I would personally prefer micro over mini. In the past I've had far too many problems with the mini usb connector coming out when I don't want it to. I very much doubt I'll have the same problem with micro.The housing usually becomes loose and then the connector itself fails due to that. As a result a newer, stronger housing has been designed, but as I said, I don't know how far down the supply line it has trickled.
The shorter side walls/bezels are going to remain that thick?It's the way that it's gotta be unless I make it so that one set of screws go through the bottom, plate and top instead of having the plate screwed to the bottom and then having the bottom screwed to the top. This is something I'm exploring right now, and it may end up being a better alternative.
I don't follow. Based on the pic it looks like screws only mount on the top and bottom wall, not the left and right side walls?Sorry, ignore what I said. I have overlooked something and will change it. Once I've changed the plate slightly the side walls should be 5mm thick instead of the current 10mm.
Very nice. This will fit a stock filco plate/pcb as well correct? I couldn't really tell by looking at the renderings. Do you have a side view showing the profile of the case? I wanna see how much space there is under the PCB.It'll fit a stock filco pcb, but not the plate since I have removed the standoffs from the design, and this case is not designed to clamp a curved plate like the vortex.. Here's a cross section and the dimensions of the bottom part of the case. The base is 5mm thick, so there is a 8mm gap at the front. The bottom of the pcb hangs around 7mm from the top of the plate iirc, so there is 1mm of space below at the front, but since it's at an angle there's way more space at the back - enough for the filco cable connector as well as the phantom's controller..
I assume you're going to be making the plate too? If so then it's quite possible to have the case accept both yours and a stock filco plate.Yes, I will be making the plate. I will definitely look into this - I would love to be able to make this case work with the stock plate.
That is awesome! May be a few things to consider: When a filco plate is in place, the top case should overlap with the plate edges so it adds another layer of securing the plate. Judging from the side views, the overlap surface seem very small or nonexistent. The reason behind this being that filco plate will just sit there held together by the top case only, no screws.Yeah. I was going to adjust the top slightly so that it overlaps the stock plate, just haven't got round to it yet. I have designed it so that the top surface of the filco plate will be flush with the top surface of the bottom case. The bottom of the plate curves are 5mm from the top of the plate, and the platforms are 5mm from the top of the case - hopefully it should fit perfectly.
Does the filco plate align with the top surface of the bottom case? What thickness is your plate going to be?
Very nice!I wasn't planning on including feet since the board will already have a 6 degree slant to it.. Does anyone even want a larger slant than that? I mean it would be easy for me to add screwholes for feet, but I wouldn't want to supply the feet since it would only add to costs.
Also, any plans for feet?
current universal plates already have trouble fitting costar stabilisers properly due to its thickness :(
if your plate is even thicker than that, i doubt costar stabilisers can be used :(
current universal plates already have trouble fitting costar stabilisers properly due to its thickness :(I see.. No wonder WFD sanded the stabiliser holes down for me. Right, well, the plate won't be 2mm anymore. It'll probably be closer to 1.5. I'll look more into this - thanks for letting me know.
if your plate is even thicker than that, i doubt costar stabilisers can be used :(
current universal plates already have trouble fitting costar stabilisers properly due to its thickness :(I see.. No wonder WFD sanded the stabiliser holes down for me. Right, well, the plate won't be 2mm anymore. It'll probably be closer to 1.5. I'll look more into this - thanks for letting me know.
if your plate is even thicker than that, i doubt costar stabilisers can be used :(
Looks nice Photekq. Just keep in mind that every detail you add will increase price. So that extra ledge for stock Filco plate is considered a detail. Also while you design it, keep in mind the tooling required to actually mill it out. For example, I don't think it's possible to have perfect sharp right angles on the inside corners because the milling bits are rounded. You'll need rounded corners, aka fillets in the design. Try to keep fillets the same sizes too so during manufacturing, it won't require a tool change, which will probably decrease costs.current universal plates already have trouble fitting costar stabilisers properly due to its thickness :(I see.. No wonder WFD sanded the stabiliser holes down for me. Right, well, the plate won't be 2mm anymore. It'll probably be closer to 1.5. I'll look more into this - thanks for letting me know.
if your plate is even thicker than that, i doubt costar stabilisers can be used :(
Yeah for the later wave of plates I sent out, I filed down the costar slot if you filled out the form for any keyboard that uses costar stabilizers. 1.5mm should be perfect. It's too bad that US uses the gauge system for standard thickness, so there were no sheet metal places that had 0.060", only 0.0625".
Think about it this way Photekq. If you have a platform, that means there's going to be a dimension associated. That means someone has to mill/machine it out. And then someone else has to measure it. So now you have to pay 2 extra people at least just to get it. WFD is right, every single detail you have will add to the cost.You're right.. I didn't think of it like that. I was thinking that entering a few more pieces of code into the routing would take less time than the time it would take for a milling machine to cut out those extra pieces of aluminium.
Any guesses what it is?A heavier metal alloy than aluminium for additional weight inside the bottom tray of the case?
I made it too easy, didn't I?Any guesses what it is?A heavier metal alloy than aluminium for additional weight inside the bottom tray of the case?
Brass weight like the 356CL!Thanks man! It actually was the 356CL that inspired me to put it in. I was looking at it for about the 1000th time the other day and thought : Man I've gotta put an awesome brass plate like that in the prototype.
I think the custom plates with the solderless switch design is a better idea vs the Filco plate. And I'm loving that design mang. Nice work mate :D
I didn't say it was better than USB, just that it was better than mini USB. Although I do think it is better than USB because it is a smaller and cleaner connection. But it's better than mini because it's smaller, sturdier, and has a higher disconnect capability than mini.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Universal_Serial_Bus#Mini_and_Micro_connectorsRegular size USB doesn't work since it's so damned big, not easy to stick in a keyboard where you have minimal bezel size.
mini USB can be painful because you are supposed to engineer the housing to supply the vast majority of physical support.
micro USB provides some improvement to mini, but primarily by making it easier for the housing to provide the physical support.
Thanks. I'll look into it further. From what you've said micro sounds great.
Thanks for the feedback but the USB mounting is completely set in stone. A breakoutboard screwed directly into the case will be solid and I'm very happy with the current USB design.
Just a quick idea here: I found a site through GH that sells custom cables (can't remember the name) but one of the things that really stuck out here was a quick-disconnect option that he seems to be selling. The idea is basically: run usb-to-QuickDisconnect from the interior of the case to the exterior and then let the user pick the connection he would like; quick-disconnect to USB, microUSB or miniUSB (or even PS/2)?
If at all possible, I'd have to say this idea has some real legs. The MTBF of a USB connection can't be anywhere near the MTBF of the Quick Disconnect.
I've also read that micro usb is able to take a lot more stress than mini usb portsThat's a bonus but I mainly chose it due to the fact that the cable won't come out unless you want it to. The same can't really be said for mini usb.
Any guesses what it is?
I made it too easy, didn't I?
Hahaha.. I shouldn't have made it brass coloured. It's blatantly obvious that it is in fact the elusive case-sized brass keycap.Any guesses what it is?I made it too easy, didn't I?
This was the riddle of the century. What screws down to the bottom, adds weight, and brass colored?
It can't be a brass plate. It must be keycaps ^-^
How's it going with this case?Design is done and I have found a place to machine it. Prototype will be costing me between £150-300 for the machining and around £100 for materials. I'm literally just waiting until my GCSE exams are over and then I'll concentrate on getting the prototype made.
Sorry if it's been answered before in the thread.
I want it now!!!I do too, man. This case is the first component of my dream keyboard. Unfortunately we've just got to be patient :(
I know that I have to wait :(Anything is possible just remember that lower quantities costs more. I'm happy to design any plate layouts and have them made as long as you pay what it costs me. Anodising options will come at a later date since I haven't yet found a place to get anodising done and colours vary from company to company.
Have you decided, which color options will be available?
And what about plate layouts, can we get some one of a kind ones?
The front elevation is quite high, My vortex is only 2.2mm'ishYou're right. The case is extremely high profile, 32mm at the front as shown in one of the pictures. This is due to the brass plate and because I love the look of high profile cases. I think a wrist rest is something you'd want to use with this case.
How about a matching wrist rest then? ;)Next thing I'm going to do, along with a numpad case if I can get the money.
I'm not sure if this was mentioned, but technically, for the 7bit layout, you'd need all of those bars between escape and the function row gone.Yeah, I didn't realise that when I started this but I know now. I haven't made 7bit or winkey tops for the current design yet.
The truth is, I almost like it like that. For me, personally, I would leave the one between escape and the function keys, and cut out all the rest.Like this?
Actually, like this...I meant moose's ideal layout. I'm aware 7bit has no gap between the esc and function row.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/YR5qvAY.png)
Actually, like this...I meant moose's ideal layout. I'm aware 7bit has no gap between the esc and function row.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/YR5qvAY.png)
I did, but there are things I don't like about it. For instance, the split backspace. (That might actually be the only thing...?)Correct. The gap is 1x, so by having it you'd just be losing one key. The layout would still work aside from that.
And technically, the one he posted as my ideal would work with your plate as well, by my calculations. The space between Esc and F Row is one key. That would leave the rest open, adding one additional key after the function keys.
Actually, I would like something like this, with 1.5x blockers on the ends. Moose?Wow. That's something I've never seen before. I like it!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/bM2Ii6i.png)
(http://img.pandawhale.com/49105-Wat-pigeon-UZjb.jpeg)With esc gap : http://i.imgur.com/xXdxK1o.png
(Attachment Link)
Actually, I would like something like this, with 1.5x blockers on the ends. Moose?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/bM2Ii6i.png)
Actually, I would like something like this, with 1.5x blockers on the ends. Moose?U cray cray bro. CRAY CRAY.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/bM2Ii6i.png)
IMO the lower the profile the better.2cm is pretty much as low as you can go. Around 8-10mm for the top cover and another 10mm for pcb clearance and say a 2mm base. I think the extra few mm to have a heavier case an a badass brass plate is worth it though.
Actually, I would like something like this, with 1.5x blockers on the ends. Moose?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/bM2Ii6i.png)
Dirge made me think about how high profile the case is. I think 32mm at the front is a little on the extreme side so I've lowered the case 5mm. It's still high profile but not quite as extreme. This did, however, mean I had to make the brass plate 5mm thick instead of 8mm thick. Not too big of a deal though.
For me everything about that board is perfect. The windowed black on beige, the red escape, winkeyless and aluminium. The only thing I would change is the colour. I'd just make it slightly darker.Dirge made me think about how high profile the case is. I think 32mm at the front is a little on the extreme side so I've lowered the case 5mm. It's still high profile but not quite as extreme. This did, however, mean I had to make the brass plate 5mm thick instead of 8mm thick. Not too big of a deal though.
My vortex feels very nice with a filco wrist rest and dca keys :)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/U5vUo.jpg)thats the holy grail. Colour everything, just right.
Actually, I would like something like this, with 1.5x blockers on the ends. Moose?U cray cray bro. CRAY CRAY.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/bM2Ii6i.png)
Dammit, I hate when you're right like that. I suppose I'm just opposed to the seperate backspace of the HHKB layouts, but good idea. I like the way you (really future me) think. :PActually, I would like something like this, with 1.5x blockers on the ends. Moose?U cray cray bro. CRAY CRAY.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/bM2Ii6i.png)
Am I crazy, or am I the most sane person you know. Also, since I am future-you, wouldn't that make you crazy, by extension?
\ = BS is where it's at SmallFry
At what height is the plate on the front side from the ground?Switch plate is just around 22mm from the ground at the front.
With rubber feet it's at 27mm height at frontside of case?Yeah the rubber feet are about 4 or 5mm but the spaces for them are 2mm into the case so it will be around 27-28mm in the end. I'm afraid I don't really know how to give an estimate weight.. i'd have to calculate the volume which would take a long time. Thanks for the compliments :)
Yeah, I can live with that ;)
What's the estimated weight?
I just love your case, can't wait for the prototype. =]
I missed the update and I realized I mixed tek-60 and tek-80!There will be a bevel. I ofc don't want the edges to be sharp but I don't want too much of a bevel. It'll most likely be quite small but this is something I'll be discussing with the person who's machining it.
very nice again, how sharp will edges be? Will they be more beveled than on the Skeldom?
Compared to Boosts case, how much will this cost do you think?Can't really say at the minute since I've only got quotes for prototypes. Prototypes always cost more than multiples. I think it will probably cost more though but I can't say for certain.
Very excited, thinking about putting an ISO Filco in this :p
Quite a huge update.
Got a final quote for £300 including materials for the three CNC parts. He just needs to order some parts from China which will take a week or two. I should be getting it machined in just over two weeks!
(Note that this is the prototyping cost and if I ever sell these they will most likely be cheaper)
Still haven't found anywhere to get anodising/laser cutting done but I'll be on the hunt. If anyone knows anywhere within the UK it'd be appreciated if you could let me know.
Do you have any colleges/uni's near you? Alot of places will let you borrow there machines for not much money.I contacted one university and they quoted me about £450+ for it. That was when the design was more simple too.
Anything new?Just more waiting... :'(
AH! The waiting game... Well it gives me time to get monies and the Phantom build!Anything new?Just more waiting... :'(
Machinist is just waiting for cutters to arrive from China.
Ah well, there's always hope! But I shall definitely admire it on your photos, so post lots!If I do sell them they'll be extremely limited - most likely only 3-5. My custom switch plates will be arriving next week, they then need to be anodised. Once I receive the anodised plates I'll start assembling - a build log will follow with every picture you could possibly want :D
Looks great. Were you present during the milling to take those pics? This prototype must have cost at least half a grand for all metal parts.I wasn't. We've been talking over the entire process through skype and he's been sending me regular picture updates.
**** maybe I should keep my Filco....I should maybe change the thread title...
I will be using it with the KMAC PCB and a Phantom PCB. The KMAC does require slight modification : you need to cut off the part of the PCB that extends outwards for the USB connector.
Umm just letting you know it won't work with ANY Korean TKL, including all KMACs, LZ, 356s, or A87s. The PCB dimensions are not the same as mass-produced keyboards.How do you mean? Are you saying they won't fit, or is it due to switch spacing etc? I've made the area where the PCB goes quite a lot larger than the phantom, filco pcbs. I've measured my KMAC PCB and it will fit with the exception of the USB connector which, as I've said before, I'll have to cut off.
I just thought I'd correct this statement so no one gets sorely disappointed after spending so much money this case.
How do you mean? Are you saying they won't fit, or is it due to switch spacing etc? I've made the area where the PCB goes quite a lot larger than the phantom, filco pcbs. I've measured my KMAC PCB and it will fit with the exception of the USB connector which, as I've said before, I'll have to cut off.
EDIT : I've measured the switch spacing on my KMAC PCB - it's the exact same as my plates. I've measured the dimensions of the KMAC PCB that I have - it will definitely fit inside the case.
I was considering quickly changing the top piece, and getting a new plate so the KMAC PCB could be used since I have no idea when the Phantom is coming. However, my machinist has already done the top piece :)) oh well.. I guess I'll just wait for the phantom.
On the bright side.. It looks awesome.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/tgraYmf.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/d8BAJax.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/cgr5juV.jpg)
I was considering quickly changing the top piece, and getting a new plate so the KMAC PCB could be used since I have no idea when the Phantom is coming. However, my machinist has already done the top piece :)) oh well.. I guess I'll just wait for the phantom.Awesome pictures!
On the bright side.. It looks awesome.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/tgraYmf.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/d8BAJax.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/cgr5juV.jpg)
congrats Photek! I can't wait to see the final resultThanks batman :) I can't wait either :D
Yeah, it's pretty cool to see it during machining.I was considering quickly changing the top piece, and getting a new plate so the KMAC PCB could be used since I have no idea when the Phantom is coming. However, my machinist has already done the top piece :)) oh well.. I guess I'll just wait for the phantom.Awesome pictures!
On the bright side.. It looks awesome.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/tgraYmf.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/d8BAJax.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/cgr5juV.jpg)
I always wanted to see how it was done ...
thanks man!
;)I was considering quickly changing the top piece, and getting a new plate so the KMAC PCB could be used since I have no idea when the Phantom is coming. However, my machinist has already done the top piece :)) oh well.. I guess I'll just wait for the phantom.
On the bright side.. It looks awesome.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/tgraYmf.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/d8BAJax.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/cgr5juV.jpg)
'Tis more than awesome. 'Tis beautiful.
I want one, so I can have it anodized like this!That would be so, so awesome, although I'm afraid you can't really do anodising like that. Another thing.. The case will most likely cost you £400+ and postage on top of that which is extremely, extremely costly. You could get a KMAC 2 kit, switches, keycaps and stabs for that price.
Do GMK purple mods with EKs blue WASD and Enter.... OH ^-^Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/O1tBXaW.jpg)
Yeah... Oh well. I guess my Hammer case will have to do! Either way Pho that case is coming along nice!I want one, so I can have it anodized like this!That would be so, so awesome, although I'm afraid you can't really do anodising like that. Another thing.. The case will most likely cost you £400+ and postage on top of that which is extremely, extremely costly. You could get a KMAC 2 kit, switches, keycaps and stabs for that price.
Do GMK purple mods with EKs blue WASD and Enter.... OH ^-^Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/O1tBXaW.jpg)
Yeah... Oh well. I guess my Hammer case will have to do! Either way Pho that case is coming along nice!Thank you man! I appreciate it :)
When will you have it in-hand?Hard to say really. It all depends how long it takes him to do the bottom piece which is the most complex piece. Could be done this weekend, next weekend or the weekend after. I'll be going to pick it up personally once it's done. Then it needs to be sent off to be finished + anodised.
You know I didn't think of that... and there is a local powdercoat place... Wait!!! They do Hydrographics too... Multicam? Carbon fiber? :eek:Yeah... Oh well. I guess my Hammer case will have to do! Either way Pho that case is coming along nice!Thank you man! I appreciate it :)
You COULD get it powder coated like that by the way.
Be sure to take pics of it before you send it off :)Of course!
I hope you will be able to lift your keyboard from your desk! Actually it might be a good anti-theft property of the custom case--so heavy, you can't grab it and walk away with it :)The case itself is estimated at 3.5kg, so around 4kg with everything installed. Pretty darn heavy..
You know I didn't think of that... and there is a local powdercoat place... Wait!!! They do Hydrographics too... Multicam? Carbon fiber? :eek::O hydrographics are really sweet. There's loads of options, I just know that you can't really do patterns with anodising since it's a chemical process.
Hydro with brass is kinda pointless because most of its use is covering up cheap plastics to make them look like carbon fibre, yet you have a beautiful case here. Don't do it!,I wasn't planning on it, don't worry! Anodising all the way for me.
The two plates I ordered have arrived. Just need to get them anodised.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/OuatAtz.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/W4AeKZE.jpg)
Well this is going to be pretty unique, really.:)) The windowed caps are my all time favourites. So glad I have them..
I might pop up and steal your windowed keycaps though!
Looks beautiful mate :DThanks man :)
I can almost taste it now.. My machinist sent me these a little bit earlier. There are still a few things to be done, but it should be completed next weekend. Then it just needs to be anodised/finished.MoreShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/OCcpWur.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/RJU3uR7.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/TwYvJwq.png)
So close! Looks great so far. Any idea what color you're going to get it anodized?Grey! (like this! (http://i.imgur.com/oSVJ1DN.png))
So close! Looks great so far. Any idea what color you're going to get it anodized?Grey! (like this! (https://mail-attachment.googleusercontent.com/attachment/u/0/?ui=2&ik=49f53db5ce&view=att&th=140970ae49d578b3&attid=0.1&disp=inline&realattid=f_hkjslwoi0&safe=1&zw&saduie=AG9B_P9gh9Izm1CTLaat2fnwEXqY&sadet=1376948118197&sads=iAKuvdxz8M4QqxwgIjOlt6Z705I&sadssc=1))
Does your machinist do anodization as well? And I assume he's doing the finishing?Both finishing and anodising will be done by someone else. My machinist isn't part of a company, he just owns a machine and does it as a hobby. He doesn't own any finishing/anodising equipment.
Not sure that's a valid link.My bad! Fixed :)
I can almost taste it now.. My machinist sent me these a little bit earlier. There are still a few things to be done, but it should be completed next weekend. Then it just needs to be anodised/finished.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/OCcpWur.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/RJU3uR7.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/TwYvJwq.png)
Looking nice, can't wait to see what it looks like when it's done.
Don't build it yet! It requires a custom plate to fit in this case! :))Looking nice, can't wait to see what it looks like when it's done.
Ditto. I was debating on selling my Phantom, but now you've got me thinking of building it so that I have a reason to buy this case. :))
Don't build it yet! It requires a custom plate to fit in this case! :))
Does your machinist do anodization as well? And I assume he's doing the finishing?Both finishing and anodising will be done by someone else. My machinist isn't part of a company, he just owns a machine and does it as a hobby. He doesn't own any finishing/anodising equipment.
And for those who are interested this is how the angle was machined. The case was made as a simple rectangle, then was mounted at a 6 degree angle. Then the angle was machined.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/YhEsp0q.jpg)
Thats damn fine, do you have a total cost, or do you not want to know ? :3Lookin' at about £400 without anodising/bead blasting, probably around £500 with. Might seem crazy to some but it's 100% worth it for me.
The case has now been finished!
I'll be picking it up next weekend and checking everything works OK.
Then it's just the anodising that needs to be done!
The awkward moment when you discover you love the ErgoDox the day before completion. Very nice brother.:)) I've got a realforce coming soon from the DT euro tour. I will be heartbroken if I like topre more than mx.
gotta buy those LEDs bro****.
Do you plan on doing a GB for these?Thats damn fine, do you have a total cost, or do you not want to know ? :3Lookin' at about £400 without anodising/bead blasting, probably around £500 with. Might seem crazy to some but it's 100% worth it for me.
Do you plan on doing a GB for these?There is a high possibility I will sell 2-5. It won't be a group buy, just a classified ad with limited numbers available.
Hope to pick one up for my phantom then :)Do you plan on doing a GB for these?There is a high possibility I will sell 2-5. It won't be a group buy, just a classified ad with limited numbers available.
Just because I was speaking to an 'Murican who didn't realise $1=/=£1Thats damn fine, do you have a total cost, or do you not want to know ? :3Lookin' at about £400 without anodising/bead blasting, probably around £500 with. Might seem crazy to some but it's 100% worth it for me.
Looks fantastic, nice work!Thank you leslie. Not just for your compliment, but for your input earlier on in this project. If it weren't for you I would've stuck with the standoff design, and the case would be nothing close to what it is now. In fact it probably wouldn't have even been made! Honestly, thank you so much. You encouraged me to explore alternatives.
Just because I was speaking to an 'Murican who didn't realise $1=/=£1Wow.. the price seems more vast when converted to USD :))
£500 = $778.66 [As of this second]
Hope this helps, someone...maybe... :3
Damn how much was the total cost so far? Looks really nice, but I must say it looks similar to the KMAC 2 case and are you smoothing out the bottom of the brass bar? :|So far.. £400~, expecting the total cost to be £500. Brass bar will be bead blasted, removing the marks. The aluminium will also be bead blasted and anodised.
If your case is done, I wanna see some pictures! I got to type on The_Beast's case and you're cutting/finishing yours. I'm soooo excited to see projects I had a small hand in come to fruition :DPicking it up next weekend - THERE WILL BE PICS. It's then getting sent allllll the way to korea for anodising (**** uk anodisers)
walnut shells:))
If your case is done, I wanna see some pictures! I got to type on The_Beast's case and you're cutting/finishing yours. I'm soooo excited to see projects I had a small hand in come to fruition :DWait beast's case is a reality now? The metal one? I thought that was on hold due to extremely OTT costs?
Wait what? I was under the impression walnut shell blasting was a gentler version of sand blasting or shot peening. It polishes?Wait what? I thought you were joking. They actually blast walnut shells at metal? Brb, need to look this up.
The_Beast's case exists in wood and I tried that. It still is a real case so I consider it a success. And yes they really use walnut shells mate. I've seen it used when you're trying to media blast really thin sheets of metal because you can strip the paint/clean the marks without adding too much head and warping the metal.Beast's wooden case was most certainly a success. It turned out really nice.
Crushed walnut shells are also generally what you use for polishing brass before reloading. It can get things a little shiny.Ahh.. I'll definitely give that a miss then.
Damn how much was the total cost so far? Looks really nice, but I must say it looks similar to the KMAC 2 case and are you smoothing out the bottom of the brass bar? :|So far.. £400~, expecting the total cost to be £500. Brass bar will be bead blasted, removing the marks. The aluminium will also be bead blasted and anodised.
You're right, it does look similar to the KMAC 2 case. That's because I love the classic shape of the KMAC. However, the KMAC 2 doesn't have the following things :
-Fixed winkeyblockers.
-Brass plate
I could get earlier KMAC models with fixed winkeyblockers, however they use feet. I HATE feet.
The 456GT was the closest thing to my ideal case in that it has brass plates and winkeyblockers, however it's extremely rare and expensive. I also don't like styling of it, and the fact I can't get it in grey. It'd have to be reanodised grey which would add to its already hefty pricetag.
tldr;
KMAC doesn't have everything I want.
456GT reanodised in grey wouldn't be much cheaper. I also wouldn't like the styling as much.
I also loved designing this and learning CAD along the way.
The price tag is huge but in my eyes this case is perfection and so the price tag was justified.If your case is done, I wanna see some pictures! I got to type on The_Beast's case and you're cutting/finishing yours. I'm soooo excited to see projects I had a small hand in come to fruition :DPicking it up next weekend - THERE WILL BE PICS. It's then getting sent allllll the way to korea for anodising (**** uk anodisers)
1. Actually the 456gt (case+pcb+plate) gb price was around $480-530 USD,1. True, but who's gonna sell it for GB price? :)) Reanodising wouldn't be cheap either. I would probably save SOME money, but I am happy to pay the extra for a design I prefer. The 456GT is an extremely nice keyboard, but it isn't perfect for me. That's what I was going for. My own personal keyboard perfection.
So you are doing quite well on saving.
As for me... I own the 456gt and already got my LZ-SE, I have to admit the bottom and height of the 456gt is at the very least awkward, I thought the KMAC2 was really sexy, but I love my metal inserts. You definitely cannot use SPH caps on it (the 456gt).
2. You have a really nice design, although rather than the brass plate in the middle perhaps have made it the border instead :) kind of like the inside of the lz-se but on the bottom Like a square within a square. Although then you couldn't have nice font on there.
3. As far as anodizing goes, I believe someone on the kbdmania forums who is quite famous gets his anodized in the States in Chicago, but I might be wrong. Powder coating is also an option :).
4. Congrats on doing something new though :). Maybe go titanium instead of brass for that super super heavy keyboard haha
I can almost taste it now.. My machinist sent me these a little bit earlier. There are still a few things to be done, but it should be completed next weekend. Then it just needs to be anodised/finished.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/OCcpWur.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/RJU3uR7.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/TwYvJwq.png)
omg it's sunday. :D:DThank you man :)
congrats dude, this was an excellent read. looks very nice.
i know you said you didn't really plan on selling these, but is there no way i could convince you to get another one made?
I think he said he may do a GB for about 5 of them but obviously they are not cheap.Yeah. It'll either be 1, 2, 3 or 4. It won't be a GB, just in the classifieds, since the numbers will be limited.
Ninja'dI'm not sure.. I was just thinking that I'd never seen a GB with such limited quantities. I mean it does kinda count as a GB as I'd be making practically no profit when shipping to & from anodiser was included etc.
:(
I think its still a GB even without the discount, because a group of people are buying an object together? :3
So nice <3Thanks :-*
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/WSSt7sO.jpg)
I am looking forward to seeing the final product. Are you thinking of making a GB out of this?This has been answered numerous times. No, I'm not planning on doing a GB. I may however sell 1 or 2 in the classifieds.
I have just been notified that the case has been anodised and is ready to be shipped. I'm hoping it should be here by the end of the week!Congratulations! Can't wait to see the pictures! :cool:
I have just been notified that the case has been anodised and is ready to be shipped. I'm hoping it should be here by the end of the week!
"I have despatched your goods they should be with you tomorrow." - AnodiserShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/bW4mqqX.jpg)
IT'S HERE
PICS SOON
Ouch, the clamp marks hurt but overall that is a sick case.They looked far worse before finishing. They honestly don't look too bad right now.
Goes well with the new Queen Elizabeth Aircraft carriers :thumb:Bang on £500.
Final Cost?
Also did you get a discount for clamping derps?
Holy crap I'm new here and I can safely you guys are fully insane after reading all 11 pages of this thread.You read ALL ELEVEN pages? Props to you man! :))
But I freakin love it
Holy crap I'm new here and I can safely you guys are fully insane after reading all 11 pages of this thread.You read ALL ELEVEN pages? Props to you man! :))
But I freakin love it
A real beautiful case a tour-de force piece of work. You could always get a Phantom PCB from Mechanical Keyboards the white would look very nice and contrast your plate and case. IMHOI literally have no money. I've put about $1000 into this and I'm not going to spend more on a new PCB+teensy until I know my phantom is gone for good. A KMAC PCB will do fine for the time being. I will just have to mod it.
Beautiful case dude. Seriously. You aren't planning a GB are you?I don't think I'll be making any more. I can't say for sure though.
part with a 356cl
Wait... this was a one time case!? :blank:At the start I was actually trying to make a CHEAPER alternative to the MKC without sacrificing quality. I soon realised this would be near impossible to do, so I decided to go all out. I was then planning to make a few more.. maybe 2-4.. I'm still consdering it. Maybe if people reach out to me and say 'YO, I WANT ONE' it would encourage me.
I don't think many people have $1,000 to burn on a case alone.Exactly.
part with a 356clShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/oHJAIpV.gif)
Tell me this though.. Are you willing to pay over £500 and shipping on top of that?
:))Tell me this though.. Are you willing to pay over £500 and shipping on top of that?
Move to Korea, and I will say yes.
British aluminum cases are the next big thing.I think you mean WELSH aluminium cases.
British aluminum cases are the next big thing.I think you mean WELSH aluminium cases.
Welsh custom FS : £2500
I've been around long enough one was purchased for $1.4k a few weeks ago
I think you mean WELSH aluminium cases.
I've been around long enough one was purchased for $1.4k a few weeks ago
june 29th doeI think you mean WELSH aluminium cases.
WUSTOM WELSH WEYBOARDS
Wow, that case is fantastic. You've shared the final cost, but more importantly, what is the final weight?The case itself (including switch plate, but not including switches/keycaps/pcb/etc) weighs 3.35kg. Not too bad considering there's a huge cavity for the teensy/breakout board etc.
WOW Its looks like Gold Bar :eek:That's exactly what I thought when it arrived :)) I wasn't expecting a shiny finish, but after receiving it I'm so glad they did it..
Photekq, stop lying to these people. Tell them what Wales is really like :p:))
i thought chav was really offensive lolNo lol... ;D
i thought chav was really offensive lolNo lol... ;D
Chavs = People who wear trackies, generally have little education, like to stab people
On another un-related topic, I was playing a zombie mod this morning, a french dude said "Offend Me!", so I called him a "C**t", turns out he meant "Defend Me"... I got banned from the server.
It is offensive but not "really" offensive.
Chavs = People who wear trackies, generally have little education, like to stab people
On another un-related topic, I was playing a zombie mod this morning, a french dude said "Offend Me!", so I called him a "C**t", turns out he meant "Defend Me"... I got banned from the server.
Yeah I don't have the balls for that...:))
phot, you can pay your guy to tool up for it or we can shoot this job to our potentially new central machine shop. what's your preference? i know you're close to your guy, and he's good. BUT mailing in and out of the UK is a pain!Sorry, I don't follow.. Prototype is done and I'm not planning to make more (at least not right now - I want to build it and make sure everything is 100% perfect before I even CONSIDER making any more)
Any pics of the finished product?:)stilllll waiting for a few things before i build
This is so awesome. Who would bother getting KMAC or LZ if this comes out lol.
This is so awesome. Who would bother getting KMAC or LZ if this comes out lol.
>.< This does not invalidate their work, which is also excellent. A bit harsh...
Photekq, breaking off those sacrificial edges on my KMAC pcb was so stressful. Especially the one under the usb plug...Yeah, even though it didn't matter if the USB broke in my case I was really nervous doing it..
It begins.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/mVBh6Ya.jpg)
1x TEK-80
117x Nixdorf "soft touch" blacks
1x Nixdorf "soft touch" white
1x modified KMAC 1.4 WKL PCB
1x orange sticker sheet from originative
PCB mount stabilisers that use screws
Yihua 936 w/ chisel tip
OG Soldapullt
Kester 44
Hakko 599B
A bunch of 24AWG cables
A few 2x3x4mm red LEDs
CABLES FROM RACCOON!
off screen :
screws
micro usb breakout board
original cherry black on beige w/ windowed lock keys
dolch from originative
OG tricolor CC
55g springs from originative
GPL 103/205 (haven't yet decided whether I'll use this)
I'll post a thread in GH media when I start building.
It begins.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/mVBh6Ya.jpg)
1x TEK-80
117x Nixdorf "soft touch" blacks
1x Nixdorf "soft touch" white
1x modified KMAC 1.4 WKL PCB
1x orange sticker sheet from originative
PCB mount stabilisers that use screws
Yihua 936 w/ chisel tip
OG Soldapullt
Kester 44
Hakko 599B
A bunch of 24AWG cables
A few 2x3x4mm red LEDs
CABLES FROM RACCOON!
off screen :
screws
micro usb breakout board
original cherry black on beige w/ windowed lock keys
dolch from originative
OG tricolor CC
55g springs from originative
GPL 103/205 (haven't yet decided whether I'll use this)
I'll post a thread in GH media when I start building.
Stop teasing us man and hurry up and get this gorgeous thing finished!Might take a few days, sorry. I'm taking my time because I want to fully enjoy the build process. Here's what I did/discovered today.
That last picture makes the switches look entirely transparent because of the wood desk it's sitting on. :DShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/Kj9UxsL.jpg)
Orange stickers look amazing, no?
That's why I don't use hakko. Don't trust 'em.It is/was a yihua
Very nice case photekq. But I thought you were going to use a phantom PCB? Kinda sucks that the KMAC PCB got smashed! :(I was.. but bavman kept it from me. Had to improvise so I had a kmac pcb proxied for me. I have 2 plates so I'll have 1 plate with the KMAC and 1 with the phantom.
That's why I don't use hakko. Don't trust 'em.It is/was a yihua
ooooh!ah i see. easy mistake to make. it was actually the brass tip cleaner - the hakko 599b.
I read the list that you posted earlier and there was the name of a Hakko product an I assumed it was an iron.
BTW, my post was sarcastic, if it's not obvious enough. I'm not particularly fond of them myself for a couple of reasons, but there's no denying the build quality.
Very nice case photekq. But I thought you were going to use a phantom PCB? Kinda sucks that the KMAC PCB got smashed! :(I was.. but bavman kept it from me. Had to improvise so I had a kmac pcb proxied for me. I have 2 plates so I'll have 1 plate with the KMAC and 1 with the phantom.
Kept it from you? You mean you never recieved it? Thats strange. How much did this whole thing cost? I love it except the font on the brass.. :Dnot sure if you've seen the gb thread recently but bavman has been mia for a long time, leaving some orders unshipped. a very awesome member called wildcard went to pick them up from him the other day, so i should get mine soon.
That kind of KMAC abuse should be illegal:))
That kind of KMAC abuse should be illegal:))
don't blame me, blame the yihua! :cool:
this is on hold since my soldering iron broke, and kinda broke the PCB in the process..Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/ETiX2j4.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Lz9ATpB.jpg)
What the heck happened? Were you soldering with gunpowder?long story. to put it simply :
b-b-but i thought once you go topre you never go back!
What the heck happened? Were you soldering with gunpowder?long story. to put it simply :
the heating element somehow broke without me noticing (probably happened ages ago) and so when i went to solder earlier some bad stuff happened..
This is so beautiful.
Wow did it actually break with a pop/explosion? Or did it just fall apart? Who knew solder was so extreme.no.. the heating element broke previously without me noticing. this resulted in it not properly melting the solder which i was trying to remove from a switch hole. this resulted in the switch hole getting totally ****ed up.
Wow did it actually break with a pop/explosion? Or did it just fall apart? Who knew solder was so extreme.
LOLWow did it actually break with a pop/explosion? Or did it just fall apart? Who knew solder was so extreme.
He was using Hardcore Solder (http://cpc.farnell.com/1/1/31055-hardcore-solder-2-18swg-0-5kg-solder-2-0-5kg-warton.html).
You should definitely get a Hakko FX888 at least, with all the builds & mods you do. The FX 888 never let me down its cheap in the long run. I have the older non digital display model I got on sale and I'm more than happy with it.very much considering it atm. shame it's far more expensive here in the uk.
It is/was a yihua
You should definitely get a Hakko FX888 at least, with all the builds & mods you do. The FX 888 never let me down its cheap in the long run. I have the older non digital display model I got on sale and I'm more than happy with it.very much considering it atm. shame it's far more expensive here in the uk.
-INSERT STARS THAT KAWA ROBBED FROM ME HERE-:'( I WANT THEMShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/vjqUk8N.png)
How much more expensive? If it's really a lot, than maybe I can get one here and ship it to you, if the price of shipping doesn't exceed the UK price difference.£100 in the UK.. Only one official hakko seller in the UK : NICE WEBSITE! (http://www.dancap.co.uk/soldering/fx888ddigitalpricelist.htm)
-INSERT STARS THAT KAWA ROBBED FROM ME HERE-:'( I WANT THEMShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/vjqUk8N.png)
Just use the image I posted as your avatar, then! :PI only just realised. Time to put on the dunce hat..
Just use the image I posted as your avatar, then! :PI only just realised. Time to put on the dunce hat..
Nice work on that TEK-80 case. It really is beautiful. I can't wait to see it fully built up, now that you have all your parts. Sorry you're having such a time with the PCB, though. That is unfortunate.:thumb:
this is on hold since my soldering iron broke, and kinda broke the PCB in the process..Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/ETiX2j4.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Lz9ATpB.jpg)
Hey, if it works--it works!Exactly. I don't care about all the direct wiring I'm gonna have to do.. If it works I'm happy!
Surprisingly Photekq isn't online, so I thought I'd post this myself.
Unfortunately I didn't really know that people would be interested in seeing a video, hence I didn't record much. Nevertheless, here's a video showing machining some of the keyboard case:
Enjoy...
Surprisingly Photekq isn't online, so I thought I'd post this myself.Great video. Thanks a lot for posting it/uploading it, much appreciated.
Unfortunately I didn't really know that people would be interested in seeing a video, hence I didn't record much. Nevertheless, here's a video showing machining some of the keyboard case:
Enjoy...
That is awesome, how much does it weigh fully assembled, I'll guess maybe 6lbs. I think it would look good with Dolch caps too!
If you have time to take a shot or two with the Dolch caps would be appreciated but its so pretty it would look great with any set I'm sure.Sure thing. I will try my best to get a few photos tonight.
Dolch on the Tek looks so stunning...that titanium is just amazing
Too expensive, brah. Expect a V2 (hopefully affordable) TKL case in the future though.Dolch on the Tek looks so stunning...that titanium is just amazing
Can concur, that looks amazing!
Dammit, Photekq! Why can't we have them? They look amazing!
Too expensive, brah. Expect a V2 (hopefully affordable) TKL case in the future though.Dolch on the Tek looks so stunning...that titanium is just amazing
Can concur, that looks amazing!
Dammit, Photekq! Why can't we have them? They look amazing!
This should be finished in a few days ;DMaaaaaybe not.
I wasn't following this project from the beginning, but how much did the case run you (or would run you, without any hiccups you might have encountered)?£500. One-off machining is expensive.
And would it be significantly less expensive without the brass sled?Maybe £400 without the brass.
Holy crap I'm new here and I can safely you guys are fully insane after reading all 11 pages of this thread.You read ALL ELEVEN pages? Props to you man! :))
But I freakin love it
This is amazing for someone like me who has never taken a keyboard apart. Well it's 3am here and bed beckons. Thank you for the happy ending ;) did not disappoint!!
Finished! It's finally finished! I'll be posting some finished photos in the GH media section sometime today or tomorrow!
Congratulations! It's been a long journey--so glad you've ended up with a great result!It has been! But a lot of fun, and I have learned a ton in the process.. Not just about designing stuff like this, but about the manufacturing process too. I'm ever so glad that I decided to make this case.
Spoke too soon.. I'm missing a cable that I need.. I guess it'll be a few more days then :))
NO! Can you at least post pics? Also, where will the pics be posted? You mentioned posting in the GH media section, but what thread will this make its way into (or perhaps its own thread...)?Yeah, I guess I'll take some photos tomorrow. It doesn't need to be fully functional for pics. I'm literally just missing the cable that connects the phantom to the breakout board..
So many questions. So excited.
I will take nicer photos when it's 100% complete, but until then..Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Nud66Ft.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/ZeuMHIv.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/l2R1T58.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/trw0RSL.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/l6SMlxu.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/2jwSX6M.jpg)
I will take nicer photos when it's 100% complete, but until then..Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Nud66Ft.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/ZeuMHIv.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/l2R1T58.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/trw0RSL.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/l6SMlxu.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/2jwSX6M.jpg)
I will take nicer photos when it's 100% complete, but until then..Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Nud66Ft.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/ZeuMHIv.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/l2R1T58.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/trw0RSL.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/l6SMlxu.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/2jwSX6M.jpg)
I will take nicer photos when it's 100% complete, but until then..Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Nud66Ft.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/ZeuMHIv.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/l2R1T58.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/trw0RSL.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/l6SMlxu.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/2jwSX6M.jpg)
I will take nicer photos when it's 100% complete, but until then..Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Nud66Ft.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/ZeuMHIv.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/l2R1T58.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/trw0RSL.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/l6SMlxu.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/2jwSX6M.jpg)
Expect to have a reasonable price one day...Not sure if you want one at a reasonable price, or if you're planning to reproduce and sell it at a reasonable price..
I am definitely interested in this! Curious... does this case allow you to use the plate like in Vortex aluminum cases? Or do you have to use pcb standoffs?
It begins.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/mVBh6Ya.jpg)
1x TEK-80
117x Nixdorf "soft touch" blacks
1x Nixdorf "soft touch" white
1x modified KMAC 1.4 WKL PCB
1x orange sticker sheet from originative
PCB mount stabilisers that use screws
Yihua 936 w/ chisel tip
OG Soldapullt
Kester 44
Hakko 599B
A bunch of 24AWG cables
A few 2x3x4mm red LEDs
CABLES FROM RACCOON!
off screen :
screws
micro usb breakout board
original cherry black on beige w/ windowed lock keys
dolch from originative
OG tricolor CC
55g springs from originative
GPL 103/205 (haven't yet decided whether I'll use this)
I'll post a thread in GH media when I start building.
I will take nicer photos when it's 100% complete, but until then..Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Nud66Ft.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/ZeuMHIv.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/l2R1T58.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/trw0RSL.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/l6SMlxu.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/2jwSX6M.jpg)
are the CAD files still available or doesn anyone have a mirror/copy of them?
after some poking around, I found out that they were hosted here:How did you do that? :))
https://onyx.gladosdan.com/tom/TEK80CAD/
There's also a lot of interesting stuff on gladosdan.com. I wonder what type of website it is.
after some poking around, I found out that they were hosted here:How did you do that? :))
https://onyx.gladosdan.com/tom/TEK80CAD/
There's also a lot of interesting stuff on gladosdan.com. I wonder what type of website it is.
gladosdan is my friend, he kindly hosted the files for me.
Closer to 2 years, but yeah... I'm sure Photekq would rehost them if you asked nicely and offered certain *ahem* favors. :-*you have no idea! haha and I did start to build my phantom 2 years ago, didn't finished yet! I did a case with acrylic that looks terrible crap :v and burned TWO teensy! it's all unmounted right now, so I figured out "let's find a nice case for that thing and build it professionally"
New link to CAD files since for some reason I got a tonne of requests lately.
Just a reminder :
This case is fully functional. However, I wouldn't call it good. I cannot recommend that anyone get this made without at least 2 adjustments :
1. It is way too tall at the front. You should change it to be 20mm at the most, otherwise it'll be very uncomfortable.
2. It is designed for the Phantom PCB. This PCB was made specifically to replace Filco PCBs, and as such it is NOT a good PCB for using in a fully custom keyboard. You should adapt this case to work with a B87, GON, or similar PCB.
I see, do you think it's better to do that 20mm modification on the base or a bit on the base and a bit on the top file? will look on those other PCBs, didn't know that there was more tenkeyless project out there, thanks for the files man!The top piece isn't necessary for use, so you can make it as tall or as short as you want. It will just affect the aesthetics and how much of the keycaps are exposed. It also will not change the height at which the switchplate sits, which is what you ideally want to change. I would recommend leaving the top piece as is (unless you dislike the aesthetics), and reducing the height of the bottom piece.