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geekhack Community => Input Devices => Topic started by: nick[0] on Wed, 27 March 2013, 16:24:26
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Hi,
The left button of my L-Trac failed prematurely, and now it's very rough. If anyone knows which microswitch they use, I'd be very grateful if he or she would let me know. Also, if there's a higher quality switch of the right form-factor/pinout, that would be even better!
Thanks,
Nick
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Microsoft and Logitech, at least, use good quality switches. Old mice (including ball mice) are cheap and easy to find used.
This may help:
http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=39819.msg786301#msg786301 (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=39819.msg786301#msg786301)
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Nick
I'm interested in buying an L-Trac secondhand on ebay.
Can you tell me if there is ANY part that might rust? I am especially worried about paying a lot of money (even for a secondhand mouse) with rollers or other parts that rust.
Right now I have Kensington Orbit and Slimblade, and they don't have moving rollers and no-rustable parts.
Hi,
The left button of my L-Trac failed prematurely, and now it's very rough. If anyone knows which microswitch they use, I'd be very grateful if he or she would let me know. Also, if there's a higher quality switch of the right form-factor/pinout, that would be even better!
Thanks,
Nick
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fohat.digs: Thanks for the link!
berserkfan: When I open up this trackball to see if it takes the Omron/Cherry switches that fohat.digs linked to, I'll check for any parts that looks like they could rust. How do you like the scroll ring on the Orbit? The L-Trac I have has a scroll wheel, and cost $155 CAD new. Would you be interested in buying it before or after I replace the rough microswitch?
Cheers,
Nick
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The fullsize trackball feels heavier than a cue ball site on three metal rollers. The rollers are firmly attached (press-fitted?) to axels. The axels pass through, and are suspended in brown plastic hubs. The axel/hub connection is lightly greased, so it shouldn't rust. I'm not sure whether or not finger oil residue from the trackball is enough to keep the rollers from rusting. Would someone with more mechanical knowledge please weigh-in on this?
I imagine that sand/ash would be far worse for this design than sea air. Also, you could try asking CST if their axels are stainless or plain steel. It looks like stainless to me. Other than that, it's probably possible for the jumper pins to corrode . . . 'no idea if it's gentle enough for rollers, but here's the MSDS sheet for the best non-toxic rust removal stuff I've ever used:
http://www.evaporust.ca/technical/Evapo-RustMSDS2008.pdf
Also, from what I can tell, it takes Panasonic square micro switches. Could someone please confirm this?
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thanks for offering, but I think I'll pass. The L-trac design forces you to reach up past the ball to get at the scroll, which I think is very flawed. This is the kind of mouse I'd pay $20-30 only to play around with (ie I would offer a ridiculously low price to you which you won't accept anyway!) :rolleyes:
BTW STAY AWAY from the scroll ring. Slimblade has no scroll ring so it's ok - you turn the ball. The scroll ring can and will start feeling nasty after a while. (Oh well, you are in Canada so maybe it won't... hot climate not good for the material) :cool:
fohat.digs: Thanks for the link!
berserkfan: When I open up this trackball to see if it takes the Omron/Cherry switches that fohat.digs linked to, I'll check for any parts that looks like they could rust. How do you like the scroll ring on the Orbit? The L-Trac I have has a scroll wheel, and cost $155 CAD new. Would you be interested in buying it before or after I replace the rough microswitch?
Cheers,
Nick