It looks great in its box, sitting there on my desk.
It looks great in its box, sitting there on my desk.
Looks like a pain in the ass.
well the mass drop round 1 offered blank DSA profile pbt caps. dsa to me is the way to go but people complained without even trying them and the round 2 offers DCS (SP Profile) instead, these are blanks as well. the SP profile thing has to do with in my opinion cosmetics and not what profile is best for it.It isn't instead. You can buy DSA and/or DCS this time.
well the mass drop round 1 offered blank DSA profile pbt caps. dsa to me is the way to go but people complained without even trying them and the round 2 offers DCS (SP Profile) instead, these are blanks as well. the SP profile thing has to do with in my opinion cosmetics and not what profile is best for it.It isn't instead. You can buy DSA and/or DCS this time.
I know that, but messing with it requires more time. The problem is that I like both reds and ergo clears equally. Maybe I should get another ergodox, and rotate them.
I know that, but messing with it requires more time. The problem is that I like both reds and ergo clears equally. Maybe I should get another ergodox, and rotate them.
my personal observations are that the thumb buttons tend to jam a little on the way up with ergoclears. ended up using a mix of browns and reds to achieve smoother action. love the ergoclears on the alphanumeric keys, but they feel off on the other keys.
btw, what is the advantage of matrix layout?
btw, what is the advantage of matrix layout?Show Image(http://www.trulyergonomic.com/store/image/data/Staggered_ergonomic_keyboards.jpg)
Reds are working out pretty well for me, kind of rolled the dice on using reds instead of brown that i am used to. Tried lubing some reds the other day and they seem pretty fantastic so i am going to lube and sticker mine this weekend
4th work day using it the whole day, ive added a larger slope/tent
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8531/8641449125_988f7c7846.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/panicfx/8641449125/)
However i seem to be making more mistakes now, got to keep learning, it does make my hands hurt less for sure with it like this.l
so the staggered layout is a legacy layout that originated from type writers? And this is not natural?
Reds are working out pretty well for me, kind of rolled the dice on using reds instead of brown that i am used to. Tried lubing some reds the other day and they seem pretty fantastic so i am going to lube and sticker mine this weekend
4th work day using it the whole day, ive added a larger slope/tent
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8531/8641449125_988f7c7846.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/panicfx/8641449125/)
However i seem to be making more mistakes now, got to keep learning, it does make my hands hurt less for sure with it like this.l
how does the slope help ergonomically and by how much?
Reds are working out pretty well for me, kind of rolled the dice on using reds instead of brown that i am used to. Tried lubing some reds the other day and they seem pretty fantastic so i am going to lube and sticker mine this weekend
4th work day using it the whole day, ive added a larger slope/tent
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8531/8641449125_988f7c7846.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/panicfx/8641449125/)
However i seem to be making more mistakes now, got to keep learning, it does make my hands hurt less for sure with it like this.l
how does the slope help ergonomically and by how much?
well your wrists are not as twisted that way with slope and its all around more comfortable, many keyboards have allowed this slope like kinesis freestyle, freestyle2, and goldtouch adjustable and the super rare ibm m15 (among some others).
in fact i just added even more slope and its perfect now
- Lubed Red Switches (103/205 Mix with teflon spring lube)
...
The lubed red switches are like my new favorite thing, holy **** awesome
been trying out various angles with various household objects. (don't ask).
found the perfect angle for myself, though I'm toying with the idea of getting the VIP3, but I don't think it's able to hit the angle I want. Any opinions, Glod? Pics below.
The ascent model from kinesis would be able to do it, but 200 bucks for a tenting system is out of my reach.
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8114/8654759004_3f888eeb72_b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/89364707@N02/8654759004/)
- Lubed Red Switches (103/205 Mix with teflon spring lube)
...
The lubed red switches are like my new favorite thing, holy **** awesome
I tried lubing up my reds as well, although I had only 205 and to be honest it felt like it kind of just gummed them up a little--they actually feel a little heavier than they did before, which is saddening since it took a long time to do and would doubtlessly take much longer to clean off.
Also, where do you even GET 103, anyway? Is there anything more conventionally available that could possibly replace it? Is it a necessary component in order to actually reduce the friction when lubricating?
To be honest I read through most of the MMB lubing thread and I came out with about as many questions as when I started. I'd love some pointers if anyone's got some.
Reds are working out pretty well for me, kind of rolled the dice on using reds instead of brown that i am used to. Tried lubing some reds the other day and they seem pretty fantastic so i am going to lube and sticker mine this weekend
4th work day using it the whole day, ive added a larger slope/tent
However i seem to be making more mistakes now, got to keep learning, it does make my hands hurt less for sure with it like this.l
how does the slope help ergonomically and by how much?
well your wrists are not as twisted that way with slope and its all around more comfortable, many keyboards have allowed this slope like kinesis freestyle, freestyle2, and goldtouch adjustable and the super rare ibm m15 (among some others).
in fact i just added even more slope and its perfect now
lets see a picture of it! i guess the best way to produce the slant is by buying the freestyle2 palm support?
yeah 205 alone is not a good ideal. the 103/205 mix on my reds is like the best thing everShow ImageShow ImageShow ImageShow ImageReds are working out pretty well for me, kind of rolled the dice on using reds instead of brown that i am used to. Tried lubing some reds the other day and they seem pretty fantastic so i am going to lube and sticker mine this weekend
4th work day using it the whole day, ive added a larger slope/tent
However i seem to be making more mistakes now, got to keep learning, it does make my hands hurt less for sure with it like this.l
how does the slope help ergonomically and by how much?
well your wrists are not as twisted that way with slope and its all around more comfortable, many keyboards have allowed this slope like kinesis freestyle, freestyle2, and goldtouch adjustable and the super rare ibm m15 (among some others).
in fact i just added even more slope and its perfect now
lets see a picture of it! i guess the best way to produce the slant is by buying the freestyle2 palm support?
ok so here is now the slope looks now, i made it detachable so that i could break it down to put in my laptop bag
the lifter is the VIP3 kit for the kinesis freestyle, i already owned one for my freestyle of 3 years but its like $45 new for the kit itself
http://www.amazon.com/Kinesis-Freestyle2-Accessory-AC820-BLK-separately/dp/B008BVNQW4
There is a smaller/cheaper v-lifter kit that does not include the palm rest (which you wont need for the ergodox) and is shorter. its called the V3 and its about $30 it should do the same thing but is smaller
http://www.amazon.com/Kinesis-Corporation-Ac730-blk-Freestyle-Accessory/dp/B003F8MDPY
I put big grip feet to keep from scratching desk and slide. the feet i bought were like $5 at target, i'm using big ones like this because they are less likely to come off while going in and out of my laptop bag...and then i used 3M fasteners (hardcore velcro), they are about $4 for a small pack, to attach the lifters
Here is the underneath, attaching the vlifters
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8104/8653837041_cfdefc34ff_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/panicfx/8653837041/)
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8118/8653837539_96ddb31fb1_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/panicfx/8653837539/)
here is the finished product with my wrist rests in which only the right side of my wrist touches them
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8248/8653837737_33e734f574_c.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/panicfx/8653837737/)
damn it is so awesome
here is the high and low settings of the v lifters, i use the higher lift
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8251/8654939272_1530093672_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/panicfx/8654939272/)
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8249/8654939496_c9ec5d4f5c_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/panicfx/8654939496/)
be interesting to see others use either of these kits to make a slope mod, the slope is so much worth it. i imagine for the full hand ergodox things on the vlifters would need to be clipped off for it to work correctly
Next steps for me
- sleeve a 3.5 connector TRRS cable to connect the two hands to semi-match my mimic cable. I have the blue sleeving and black shrink
- cleanup/sand/polish/maybe-paint-or-vinyl my aluminium case and build my second ergodox. use ergo clears or lubed reds again.
- when DSA retro arrives attempt to switch to colemak layout.
very cool. i just made my own stand using the massdrop cardbox. nothing fancy
from what I understand, 205 is too gummy to be used alone, but don't take my word for it, as I don't have access to the grease. there's a groupbuy for 103 done by jdcarpe in the groupbuy forums at the moment.
anyway it sounds like you used too much lube. I had one switch gum up like that when I purposely used a large amount of superlube on the switch and the springs to test how much would be effective. what you need is a thin film of the lube, enough to see the surface of the sliders shine under bright light, but not so much that you could actually use a new brush to reabsorb the lube from the switch to use on another switch. Hope that helps.
whitefiredragon has a pretty good video that I used as a guide, but I'm guessing that you already watched that?
Edit: as it is, I think 205 alone could probably be used, though it might not be optimal. Also, as it is a grease, there would be some increase in the force needed to actuate the switch, but it should settle out in a short while after you give the keys a good half hour of typing.
This is good information--thanks. You're probably right; I probably have too much on my stems. Especially since it's just 205 alone!
More newb lewb questions, for anyone who wants to field them:
When 103 and 205 are used together, is it the oil on top of the grease, applied separately, or are the two literally mixed up in a slippery cocktail and applied together?
I notice that 105 oil is much more conventionally available than 103; could it possibly be used with 205 to the same effect? I'm in on jdcarpe's 103 buy, but the gumminess of my keys (even unlubed) is bad enough that I'd get 105 and clean it off only to replace it with 103 when it gets here.
I notice that 105 is muv
After tweaking my layout, I'm actually satisfied with my Ergodox.
I still feel somewhat limited because my typing speed took a huge hit.
I was a really fast typist, but I never really learned the 10 finger system.
This in combination with the quite easy going browns (which I love) leads to a lot of mistakes.
Another thing I need to solve very soon is the friction issue. The Ergodox behaves on my desk like an air hockey puck.
Do you have any ideas how to solve this elegantly?
@Larken: interesting! What are the big ones?
Ah, and just for the record: I love the Ergodox for gaming! ;)
i am using O-rings right now, added them last week and they help a little bit but it doesn't change the fact they are linear and the only tactility is me bottoming out.
Glod, your experience is like the groom, waking up the day after the wedding, taking a good look at his sleeping bride and thinking, "what have I done". Don't worry. She'll brush her teeth, do her hair and your concerns will fade away. Take care of her and she'll treat you right.
I appreciate your honesty about the ErgoDox and I had anticipated some of your concerns.
1. Maybe you've overdone the tenting angle. There's always the temptation to think that more is better and we end up solving one problem only to discover a new one. I think by using longer screws to add another layer under the case that extends forward to hold a wrist rest would be an easy and effective solution.
2. The look of the ErgoDox in the raw is truly that of an enthusiast's keyboard. Larken vinyl solution or placing an opaque sheet under the first layer would help. When the dust settles, we may find the Shapeway design to be the most acceptable for workplace conformity.
3. Do you think O-rings would help the red's?
4. Why do you think the matrix design affects your gaming?
Do you sometimes think that we are more interested in searching for that pot of gold at the end of the rainbow than finding it?
A question for those of you, who use acrylic plate from massdrop purchase.
Is it possible to disassemble a switch (to change spring or lube it) without un-soldering it first? If so, then what tools are required?
You have a video of that in action?i am using O-rings right now, added them last week and they help a little bit but it doesn't change the fact they are linear and the only tactility is me bottoming out.
Why don't you install a buzzer like I did? You can make your reds "clicky" which REALLY helps avoid bottoming out:
http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=22780.msg840977#msg840977
http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=22780.msg844285#msg844285Show Image(http://geekhack.org/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=22780.0;attach=17926;image)Show Image(http://geekhack.org/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=22780.0;attach=18256;image)
@sordna
I really like your buzzer idea. I have a few questions.
1. Can it be turned off and on at will?
2. How loud is it and can the volume be adjusted? What does it sound like?
3. Would you say that the buzzer is vulnerable to damage where it's located and could there be any issues using it with the aluminum case?
4. Is it mounted after the case is assembled? How?
@sordna
I really like your buzzer idea. I have a few questions.
1. Can it be turned off and on at will?
You would need to modify the firmware if you want the capability to turn it on/off with some hotkey. My firmware modification keeps it on since I can't live without it :-) But they way I installed it I can unplug it easily.Quote2. How loud is it and can the volume be adjusted? What does it sound like?
It's about as loud as bottoming out without o-rings. It sounds similar to a Kinesis Advantage with clicks turned on.Quote3. Would you say that the buzzer is vulnerable to damage where it's located and could there be any issues using it with the aluminum case?
You would need to either drill a big hole in the case to fit it in (best option) or pull 2 little wires and somehow mount it on top. They I put it (on top of the case) is not a good option if you want to transport the keyboard.Quote4. Is it mounted after the case is assembled? How?
What I did is drill my case and squeeze in some wires in the relevant teensy holes (see my hi res pic). I haven't actually soldered it so I can easily pull it in and out!
Hopefully GH will allow posting of an mp3 file with the sound, first I type without the buzzer, then with the buzzer, and last type slowly without bottoming out at all so you can only hear the buzzer and not the keys.
[attachurl=1]
Hey sordna, could space ship laser sounds be done? or startrek holo-deck sounds?
The configurator tool is really easy to use (much more after I discovered that I didn't need to press the teensy button each time I want to change profiles), and i find myself wasting long periods of time messing with different layouts.
F that. I wouldn't give up a key for that, I think I'm just going to wire in a small external switch for the boot loader.
F that. I wouldn't give up a key for that, I think I'm just going to wire in a small external switch for the boot loader.
But the teensy button can be put on any layer! I believe the firmware is capable of 20 layers, surely you can find 1 free key out of 1560! ;)
But the teensy button can be put on any layer! I believe the firmware is capable of 20 layers, surely you can find 1 free key out of 1560! ;)
i was thinking about adding in an additional switch for teensying, but after considering the layer options i've set up an admin layer to do a few functions that you don't want to be pressing accidentally, such as the teensy programming key. i've got a number layer that's only accessed whilst held down, which has another holdy-downy layer shift that contains my teensy (and the abilty to switch my base layer between colemak for mac, colemak for windows & qwerty for windows modes). having to hold down a few layer shifts makes it nice and safe from accidents and as mentioned, doesn't really impact your available buttons :)But the teensy button can be put on any layer! I believe the firmware is capable of 20 layers, surely you can find 1 free key out of 1560! ;)
Ahhh ok. That makes things much nicer then. Thanks!
I dont have an ErgoDox (yet) but I do have a TECK. A lot of people have had concerns about the lack of tenting on the TECK. I did too until I applied some cello ergonomics. On the cello and violin the left hand fingers are slanted rather than perpendicular to the strings. This provides a lot of ergonomic benefits that can transfer to the keyboard. Most people see the aligned matrix keys and naturally want to line their fingers up with the rows. While this may have been what the inventors intended it is not necessarily the best way to type. Slanting your fingers outward allows your wrists to straighten out of ulnar deviation. A picture is worth a thousand words.
(Attachment Link)
This lessens the need for tenting because it allows the wrists to relax in the same direction. If you are using a wrist rest then the wrists no longer lie flat but on the outer wrist bone.
As always, YMMV. But it works well for me.
I dont have an ErgoDox (yet) but I do have a TECK. A lot of people have had concerns about the lack of tenting on the TECK. I did too until I applied some cello ergonomics. On the cello and violin the left hand fingers are slanted rather than perpendicular to the strings. This provides a lot of ergonomic benefits that can transfer to the keyboard. Most people see the aligned matrix keys and naturally want to line their fingers up with the rows. While this may have been what the inventors intended it is not necessarily the best way to type. Slanting your fingers outward allows your wrists to straighten out of ulnar deviation. A picture is worth a thousand words.
(Attachment Link)
This lessens the need for tenting because it allows the wrists to relax in the same direction. If you are using a wrist rest then the wrists no longer lie flat but on the outer wrist bone.
As always, YMMV. But it works well for me.
good one. i realized this yesterday when i felt that ergodox wasnt that comfortable to type. i tilted the keyboard like you said and it works like a charm. that picture is very useful. i was thinking on how to determine the tilt, now i know.
I dont have an ErgoDox (yet) but I do have a TECK. A lot of people have had concerns about the lack of tenting on the TECK. I did too until I applied some cello ergonomics. On the cello and violin the left hand fingers are slanted rather than perpendicular to the strings. This provides a lot of ergonomic benefits that can transfer to the keyboard. Most people see the aligned matrix keys and naturally want to line their fingers up with the rows. While this may have been what the inventors intended it is not necessarily the best way to type. Slanting your fingers outward allows your wrists to straighten out of ulnar deviation. A picture is worth a thousand words.
(Attachment Link)
This lessens the need for tenting because it allows the wrists to relax in the same direction. If you are using a wrist rest then the wrists no longer lie flat but on the outer wrist bone.
As always, YMMV. But it works well for me.
I dont have an ErgoDox (yet) but I do have a TECK. A lot of people have had concerns about the lack of tenting on the TECK. I did too until I applied some cello ergonomics. On the cello and violin the left hand fingers are slanted rather than perpendicular to the strings. This provides a lot of ergonomic benefits that can transfer to the keyboard. Most people see the aligned matrix keys and naturally want to line their fingers up with the rows. While this may have been what the inventors intended it is not necessarily the best way to type. Slanting your fingers outward allows your wrists to straighten out of ulnar deviation. A picture is worth a thousand words.
(Attachment Link)
This lessens the need for tenting because it allows the wrists to relax in the same direction. If you are using a wrist rest then the wrists no longer lie flat but on the outer wrist bone.
As always, YMMV. But it works well for me.
Nice to see a picture demonstrating that. I've been typing with my hands/fingers tilted like that all my life, didn't realize there was a wrong way to do it.
Well... I was about to post the same thing. I can't really imagine why would anyone bend their wrists like in the first picture on a split keyboard. However, I do think tenting the whole keyboard (or rather its halves) is still beneficial, because of angle between forearms and the keyboard.
I accomplished tenting with some PCB standoffs I found at Radio Shack that happen to be M3 threaded, same as the screws provided with the ErgoDox:
(Attachment Link)
Some closeups from my initial prototyping before full assembly:
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
surprisingly, I am still making quite a bit of typo with the ergodox. anyone with the same experience? especially with the numbers, given that 1-6 fit on the left hand
surprisingly, I am still making quite a bit of typo with the ergodox. anyone with the same experience? especially with the numbers, given that 1-6 fit on the left hand
surprisingly, I am still making quite a bit of typo with the ergodox. anyone with the same experience? especially with the numbers, given that 1-6 fit on the left hand
I'm a little surprised by how quickly some have adapted to theirs. Different layouts, vertical columns, thumb clusters, experimenting with different slopes, tilts and separations. All of these things take time to get use to. Do yourself a favor. Remap the backspace to a comfortable location.
I'll be honest though, I don't want to stop typing on this thing. I installed Vimium for Chrome just because I don't want to take my hands off the 'Dox while browsing (although Vimium fails hard at Facebook).
Yah. I know about Vimperator. I don't want to talk about it :(
so happy its working out for people, i seriously doubt i will be using a non-"ergonomic" keyboard as my daily driver ever again. I am still interested in what Kenesis is planning.
Because i still like building and customizing keyboards--i just finished my first Phantom YAY!--i think im still going to use a standard staggered keyboard for doing games and then the ergonomic keyboard for everything else. i am getting a keyboard tray (the arm type not the shelf type) on my new desk so that i can have 2 keyboards set up :) weeee keyboards
i think one of the reasons i got used to the keyboard so quickly was because i use a keyboard so intensively each day that i put myself in a position where i had to learn, i removed all other keyboards. Another reason is my layout isn't very creative, i made it to resemble other keyboards so that i wouldn't have to completely retrain. im slowly learning how to use my thumb for backspaceShow Image(http://almightyglod.com/public_stack/ErgoDox_Layout/1/Glod_ErgoDox_Layout_June_2013.png)
i did however move the numbers back to next to each other, the -= keys are now next to the backspace again. at work i have to type in lots of things that required dashes and underscores and it became annoying trying to learn to do it next to the 6
I am starting to regret choosing the ergo whites on ERGODOX PRIME.. i love clicky switches the best but due to my HEAVY typing style the bottoming out plus the click is driving my wife nuts even when my office door is shut (i work mostly remotely). plus i think when you remove whites from their original assembly they must have some sort of lubrication, the click is no longer soft anymore, the whites are just as loud as blues, just a higher pitch.
thanks to the plate design, i think the next time i have like 5-6 hours free ill do a stem/slider swap and try ergo clears or lubed ergo clears. I already have a lubed red ergodox.
(Attachment Link)
Are the media keys on L1 actually working, or are those placeholders to show what it's supposed to do?
Are the media keys on L1 actually working, or are those placeholders to show what it's supposed to do?
I wish they worked by they no work. I really want the volume control...
I think I'm going to take a look at the firmware and see if we can't get those pesky VK codes showing up in Windows
Yah. I know about Vimperator. I don't want to talk about it :(
I will admit it can be huge and confusing, even if you're already proficient in vim.
You can use the browser normally in vimium and not even know it's there until you want to use it.
Show Image(http://almightyglod.com/public_stack/ErgoDox_Layout/1/Glod_ErgoDox_Layout_June_2013.png)
Sound advice, thanks Glod!
It sounds like DCS might be better for the feel then? I'm planning to use this primarily for typing at work (maybe very occasional gaming), so I'd planned to go with the Cherry Blue switches and the full hand model. Any thoughts on DSA vs DCS for this usage scenario?
I know a lot of this is very preference based, but with no experience, it's difficult to decide. I suppose I could buy both, but another $60 for the DCS key caps is not insignificant for my budget :/
Oh man oh man I want a second one but I just can't afford it right now :( :( :( Hopefully they'll do another one at some point in the future.
you really NEED to grab massdrop's keycaps even if you are going to use your own. It is almost impossible otherwise to get the right profile 2x, 1.5x, and 1x caps for the pinky areas and thumb cluster. You can always mix in other keycaps into the massdrop ones if you absolutely need legends instead of blank.
Hi there, I just got to know the Ergodox and very interested in the GB that is concluding in 2 days, though i can solder, but dont have the equipments with me and not worth buying new ones just for this and especially absolutely no time. also a noob at keyboards.
maybe this isnt the right place to ask, but does anyone know if someone is offering assembly service?
Thanks
In my opinion, the only advantage to having legends is for the benefit of guest users. The separate halves almost require touch typing and seeing the legends may encourage bad habits and slow the process of learning the layout.
As for the keycap profile, my vote would go to the dcs profile. The dsa's solved the confusion of creating a profiled layout that would work with the ErgoDox and some say that they look better but I find some of the keys are easier to hit with the sculpted rows. I find that particularly true with the upper thumb keys.
One of the layers of the case sort of acts like a plate, but be wary that it doesn't do anything to reduce the strain when pulling keycaps off.
One of the layers of the case sort of acts like a plate, but be wary that it doesn't do anything to reduce the strain when pulling keycaps off.
On the caps subject... Pick one, and just leave it that way... these clear stems are epic tight....
Once I realized the mounting plate is too thick for the switch bodies to properly "latch in", I decided to be extra-generous with the solder points on my switches, pretty much completely filled in the entire thru-holes with solder, since that's all that holds the switch down when pulling caps off. That said, the black POM cap set I scavenged off that Cherry G81 board turned out to fit the stems perfectly, just snug enough to be secure, but still pop off easily when pulled. I reckon the slightly waxy/self-lubricating texture of POM also helps with removal.
I am currently waiting for my Ergodox from the most recent Massdrop and want to order some colored acrylic plates.
Now i just need the measurements, i have this picture : http://i.imgur.com/cw4nX0w.png are the combined plates 3/4" and the individual ones 0,013 inches ?
If someone could give me the exact thickness that would be awsome. <3
Greetings,
Jur
Thank you mohitgarg, i downloaded the cad files and will send them inc these measurements to the cutter right away.
I will post some pictures when its done.
I am currently waiting for my Ergodox from the most recent Massdrop and want to order some colored acrylic plates.
Now i just need the measurements, i have this picture : http://i.imgur.com/cw4nX0w.png are the combined plates 3/4" and the individual ones 0,013 inches ?
If someone could give me the exact thickness that would be awsome. <3
Greetings,
Jur
Top and bottom layers are 3/32" and three middle layers are 3/16". You can get the CAD files from ergodox.org
I am getting acrylic plates cut for myself as well in these thickness:
Top - 2/16" = 1/8"
Spacer - 3/16"
Plate - 2/16" = 1/8"
Spacer - 4/16" = 1/4"
Bottom - 3/16"
Total thickness = 14/16"
If I understand their ordering process, you can order blank key caps but not lettered? Where do you buy
the ones with letters on them? I have some stick-on letters but they fade very quickly.
If I understand their ordering process, you can order blank key caps but not lettered? Where do you buy
the ones with letters on them? I have some stick-on letters but they fade very quickly.
You will have to order a base set from elsewhere as you only require the alphanumeric set in legends. Some members use other layouts and thus you won't find printed keycap ergodox sets.
Does anyone know if these line key caps from wasd:
http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/index.php/row-2-size-1x1-line-cherry-mx-keycap.html
will work with the DCS key caps group buy?
https://www.massdrop.com/buy/ergodox-keycap
Thanks!
Does anyone know if these line key caps from wasd:
http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/index.php/row-2-size-1x1-line-cherry-mx-keycap.html
will work with the DCS key caps group buy?
https://www.massdrop.com/buy/ergodox-keycap
Thanks!
wasd uses "OEM" profile which is noticeably higher than SP DCS profile. I mean you can use any key caps you wont with it, it just may not be flush.
Does anyone know if these line key caps from wasd:
http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/index.php/row-2-size-1x1-line-cherry-mx-keycap.html
will work with the DCS key caps group buy?
https://www.massdrop.com/buy/ergodox-keycap
Thanks!
wasd uses "OEM" profile which is noticeably higher than SP DCS profile. I mean you can use any key caps you wont with it, it just may not be flush.
Good to know. Do you know where I could get a couple key caps like this that will match the DCS profile? Thanks!
Does anyone know if these line key caps from wasd:
http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/index.php/row-2-size-1x1-line-cherry-mx-keycap.html
will work with the DCS key caps group buy?
https://www.massdrop.com/buy/ergodox-keycap
Thanks!
wasd uses "OEM" profile which is noticeably higher than SP DCS profile. I mean you can use any key caps you wont with it, it just may not be flush.
Good to know. Do you know where I could get a couple key caps like this that will match the DCS profile? Thanks!
its a bit expensive, but i use a mix of the White on Black Doubleshot Set from SP, DCS Blanks, and DSA Blanks.
The set is here: http://www.keycapsdirect.com/marketplace.php for $60
here is what the mix looks like mixed together. I dont think it looks bad at all.
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5550/9564138047_00f4dca0c5.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/panicfx/9564138047/)
I agree that the thumb clusters could be improved upon, but I still think it's currently the best thing out there.
I agree that the thumb clusters could be improved upon, but I still think it's currently the best thing out there.
For me (as I have large hands), I think the 2x thumb buttons are perfect. But I'll be honest, I don't use the 1x buttons in the thumb cluster at all (well I do have two of them setup to load the bootloader when I press both, but that's it).
I guess that's my point. The thumbs could easily control more of the modifying load but the 2-2x keys are the only ones that are very comfortable to use.
My layout (https://www.massdrop.com/ext/ergodox/?referer=QJGS5L&hash=daa0262d170d78bfc724d9a8382143ee)'s fairly QWERTY, but with a few tweaks. The arrows are actually really easy to use on the 2nd layer after a few days use. Especially since I mainly use my left thumb to toggle L1. Since I write code for a living, I really needed access to []{} on L1. The two Z's are due to the fact that I hit a different one depending on if I'm normally typing words, or hitting Ctrl+Z for undo. The odd B placement also has to do with standard QWERTY muscle memory. Probably not the best ergonomically, but I just can't get used to hitting X with my ring finger and C with my middle finger. Just feels weird....
My layout (https://www.massdrop.com/ext/ergodox/?referer=QJGS5L&hash=daa0262d170d78bfc724d9a8382143ee)'s fairly QWERTY, but with a few tweaks. The arrows are actually really easy to use on the 2nd layer after a few days use. Especially since I mainly use my left thumb to toggle L1. Since I write code for a living, I really needed access to []{} on L1. The two Z's are due to the fact that I hit a different one depending on if I'm normally typing words, or hitting Ctrl+Z for undo. The odd B placement also has to do with standard QWERTY muscle memory. Probably not the best ergonomically, but I just can't get used to hitting X with my ring finger and C with my middle finger. Just feels weird....
what do you guys think of Classic vs Full hand case?
what do you guys think of Classic vs Full hand case?I decided to go with the classic for portability with the intent on eventually making a tenting platform with palm rests similar to what Glod has done - although I seriously doubt it will be as nice.
here is what the mix looks like mixed together. I dont think it looks bad at all.Show Image(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5550/9564138047_00f4dca0c5.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/panicfx/9564138047/)
Quotehere is what the mix looks like mixed together. I dont think it looks bad at all.
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5550/9564138047_00f4dca0c5.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/panicfx/9564138047/)
Looks awesome! Do you have any details on how someone could build those wooden wrist rests themselves? What type of wood, dimensions, etc.
Thanks!
I've been mildly obsessed with the ErgoDox since I learned about it a few days ago. (It will hopefully be on its way soon from Massdrop.) Mostly, I've been playing with layouts. After mocking up a keyboard, I put together something that I haven't seen elsewhere, and while this probably means it is a bad idea, I still thought I'd share. :)
https://www.massdrop.com/ext/ergodox/?referer=TUHZR6&hash=c8bc2cfbfad1747b980b597cee637a49
...
I've been mildly obsessed with the ErgoDox since I learned about it a few days ago. (It will hopefully be on its way soon from Massdrop.) Mostly, I've been playing with layouts. After mocking up a keyboard, I put together something that I haven't seen elsewhere, and while this probably means it is a bad idea, I still thought I'd share. :)
https://www.massdrop.com/ext/ergodox/?referer=TUHZR6&hash=c8bc2cfbfad1747b980b597cee637a49 (https://www.massdrop.com/ext/ergodox/?referer=TUHZR6&hash=c8bc2cfbfad1747b980b597cee637a49)
I agree about the 1x thumb buttons. Got the Ergodox to be able to move the modifiers (which I use constantly) and to better use my thumbs without strain. The two 2x keys are fine - I use 'em for enter, space and shifts - but it's hard to use mods on the others. I don't want to move the mods back to the bottom left and right, however, as that strains my thumb and pinky.
Thinking of maybe putting ctrl and alt on the first two inner keys of the bottom row. On the outer 1.5x column is no good, as I don't mind those for stuff like tab and backspace but can't stand them for anything I have to hold.
Has anyone tried putting a higher keycap on the 1x thumbs, for instance an SA row 1 or DCS row 5, so that it's easier to reach over the 2x thumb keys?
Current layout, as I'm learning the board:
https://www.massdrop.com/ext/ergodox/?referer=4DQTDG&hash=5ce9978e58b8542158c3060d7d11856f
Haven't yet decided what to do with the inner 1.5s as they're acting a bit funny and I haven't had time to debug them. I've based it on querty so it's less of a problem when I have to use other people's keyboards.
How about a miniDox?
http://www.riitek.com/en/product-detail-427.html (Click to Enlarge Photos)
(espicially fot tp4tissue)
How about a miniDox?
http://www.riitek.com/en/product-detail-427.html (Click to Enlarge Photos)
(espicially fot tp4tissue)
Idk what fot is...
But, a smaller ergodox would be fine, as long as it retains split design and center-tenting ability...
Since it's fully programmable, there are numerous keys that could be sacrificed for "size".
Look up the ErgoTravel ;)
The ugly:
This design is highly modal, meaning a steep learning curve, especially when the keys will be unlabeled.
So the massdrop package showed up...
and my immediate reaction upon trying it is theres no way the thumb clusters will work for my hands.
Ive used columnar layouts with thumb keys before (kinesis), but I can't see this working for me.
Did anyone else who had that initial reaction end up liking it, or should I just sell this one on? I havent even taken the paper off the acrylic yet....
I agree about the 1x thumb buttons. Got the Ergodox to be able to move the modifiers (which I use constantly) and to better use my thumbs without strain. The two 2x keys are fine - I use 'em for enter, space and shifts - but it's hard to use mods on the others. I don't want to move the mods back to the bottom left and right, however, as that strains my thumb and pinky.
Thinking of maybe putting ctrl and alt on the first two inner keys of the bottom row. On the outer 1.5x column is no good, as I don't mind those for stuff like tab and backspace but can't stand them for anything I have to hold.
Has anyone tried putting a higher keycap on the 1x thumbs, for instance an SA row 1 or DCS row 5, so that it's easier to reach over the 2x thumb keys?
Current layout, as I'm learning the board:
https://www.massdrop.com/ext/ergodox/?referer=4DQTDG&hash=5ce9978e58b8542158c3060d7d11856f
Haven't yet decided what to do with the inner 1.5s as they're acting a bit funny and I haven't had time to debug them. I've based it on querty so it's less of a problem when I have to use other people's keyboards.