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geekhack Community => Keyboards => Topic started by: njvz on Wed, 24 April 2013, 00:25:41
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Hey, so I'm installing an alu case I got from WRXChris and I had a few questions-
Do I need the mylar sheet? Will the pcb just short out if I don't use it?
I did install with the sheet but now whenever I plug it in, the caps-lock light just flashes twice and then the keyboard is not usable.
Not sure if I did something wrong, please let me know if you have any ideas!
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Hey, so I'm installing an alu case I got from WRXChris and I had a few questions-
Do I need the mylar sheet? Will the pcb just short out if I don't use it?
I did install with the sheet but now whenever I plug it in, the caps-lock light just flashes twice and then the keyboard is not usable.
Not sure if I did something wrong, please let me know if you have any ideas!
Mylar? lol... just use some paper. light and probably free.. you can use any kind of paper you like..
Don't use the cotton woven kind though.
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Are they any guides online as to proper installation into the case? I'm really worried about the keyboard not working, can the mylar touching the mini-usb cause this?
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Mylar is an insulator of electricity so it will not short out if it touches any part of the PCB. You don't need to use mylar, you can use any insulator such as paper like tp4 suggested.
I'm not familiar with the case but I'm pretty sure you just screw in the PCB and you're good to go.
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I have nothing between pcb and case with mine sooo /shrug.
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If you have a DMM, you can set it to a continuity tester to see if it is anodized. If it is, you can use it without any insulation; if not, you should add an insulator.
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You definitely need some sort of insulator, otherwise the board will short out (even though the case is anodized). Paper is a great idea, wish I had thought of that. I was using the mylar & electric tape thing that I included with the case, but if you screw it down too tight wires poke through it and short out on the case.
All it takes is screwing one screw down too hard and the board refuses to function. I highly recommend following tp's advice and trying a sheet or 2 of paper as an insulator.
And don't worry, you won't damage your keyboard!
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Anodization makes the case to be non-conductive. They must have done a really crappy job at anodizing it otherwise.
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Anodization makes the case to be non-conductive. They must have done a really crappy job at anodizing it otherwise.
Yeah I think so, the anodization was flaking off in places when I got it new. Fortunately it didn't get any worse from regular use, and still looks impressive overall!
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Anodization makes the case to be non-conductive. They must have done a really crappy job at anodizing it otherwise.
Yeah I think so, the anodization was flaking off in places when I got it new. Fortunately it didn't get any worse from regular use, and still looks impressive overall!
Very impressive! I think I might just get some foam risers or something.
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Good news, paper seems to work pretty well.
Bad news, whenever I hit 'a' I get an output of "6asdf". Did I short out my PCB? Is there a fix for this?
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Good news, paper seems to work pretty well.
Bad news, whenever I hit 'a' I get an output of "6asdf". Did I short out my PCB? Is there a fix for this?
It sounds like a pin is poking through the paper and causing a short; try adding another sheet of paper, and when you tighten the screws down don't crank them super tight.
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why don't you try the board without being in the case? Then you can know for sure if the case is causing the problems or if there is a problem with the board.
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If another sheet of paper does not alleviate... then what you wanna do is snip the pointy ends of the solder points.
If you don't have snips
Use nail-clipper as last resort to do this, as it'll probably destroy the nail clipper. :D