I just lubed some Blues...wow no more awesome clicks! :( Feels like browns now
I just lubed some Blues...wow no more awesome clicks! :( Feels like browns now
HAHAHAHAHAHAHA..... I almost made the same mistake.. Luckily I tested it on spare switches...
But I don't understand, actually I'm surprised that you didn't test a single one at all?
I just lubed some Blues...wow no more awesome clicks! :( Feels like browns now
HAHAHAHAHAHAHA..... I almost made the same mistake.. Luckily I tested it on spare switches...
But I don't understand, actually I'm surprised that you didn't test a single one at all?
I did say some. 2 spare ones to be precise..lol
Well, this is interesting. So default unlubed Clears will be more bumpy and scratchy? And lubrication smoothes out not only the friction but also the feel of the bump? I don't like the sound of "more like MX Blacks", because what's the point then. I was under the impression that Clears have a very noticeable bump, as opposed to Browns, and that lubrication enhances the feel of the bump--or is that only true for Ergo Clears?
Well, this is interesting. So default unlubed Clears will be more bumpy and scratchy? And lubrication smoothes out not only the friction but also the feel of the bump? I don't like the sound of "more like MX Blacks", because what's the point then. I was under the impression that Clears have a very noticeable bump, as opposed to Browns, and that lubrication enhances the feel of the bump--or is that only true for Ergo Clears?
Imagine MX Switches made entirely out of stainless steel that you oil centrally through a network that runs underneath the board.
*You then open a valve underneath and replace it every few miles.
Imagine MX Switches made entirely out of stainless steel that you oil centrally through a network that runs underneath the board.
*You then open a valve underneath and replace it every few miles.
Imagine MX Switches made entirely out of stainless steel that you oil centrally through a network that runs underneath the board.
*You then open a valve underneath and replace it every few miles.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/oenqgTU.jpg)
Maybe you just don't like them? No one can tell you if you'll like how switches feel. You're the only person that can say if you like a switch. There's plenty of switches I don't like that people swear by. If you think it feels like MY switches, then maybe that's your take on it and you don't like lubed clears. Time to try a new switch? :D
You could also try rubbing off some of the lube with a cotton swab or a Q-tip. Not sure if the lube will dry out but its worth a shot ^-^
But you're going to be desoldering and replacing them anyway, right? And it won't take as long as trying to wait for the lube to dry out. It just takes more effort.
You could perhaps do such a mod, the work wouldn't be worth it though.It might be surprisingly less costly than one might think because of the fact most industrial construction cost with metal isn't due to the processing of the metal but due to the amount of the metal itself. And a keyboard would need little.
If you lube the tactile nub, you lose tactility, this is why some don't lube tactile switches or even recommend it. This goes double for Ergo Clears, which if the lube is too thick, can cause them to still until things work in.
Someone asked why lube the spring? Springs can twist and shift when compressing, but more than anything, it dampens noise a little bit.
I don't recommend Kryox (sp?) either, sorry, but that is a ripoff, it's lube, and nothing really special about it. Go to an RC shop and ask if they have any diff lube (grease for your springs) and silicone shock oil (for sliders, get light). It's all plastic safe (it has to be for those little cars) and comes in several viscosities. You would probably be shocked at the selection and $15 will probably get all the lube you want. Especially, if you ask if they just have some leftovers like I did. I got 3 oils, and one grease for only a couple bucks.
No. you only got the good deal because chix don't go to those shops.. same crap happens when chix go to comic book stores.. they get free stuff.... or some ridiculous discount on some random thing. .. It's like women have +8 magic find when they go to these stores.Jealous much?
If you lube the tactile nub, you lose tactility, this is why some don't lube tactile switches or even recommend it. This goes double for Ergo Clears, which if the lube is too thick, can cause them to still until things work in.
Someone asked why lube the spring? Springs can twist and shift when compressing, but more than anything, it dampens noise a little bit.
I don't recommend Kryox (sp?) either, sorry, but that is a ripoff, it's lube, and nothing really special about it. Go to an RC shop and ask if they have any diff lube (grease for your springs) and silicone shock oil (for sliders, get light). It's all plastic safe (it has to be for those little cars) and comes in several viscosities. You would probably be shocked at the selection and $15 will probably get all the lube you want. Especially, if you ask if they just have some leftovers like I did. I got 3 oils, and one grease for only a couple bucks.
Sounds like it's worth lubing the spring then and just leaving most switches alone to wear in on their own, with use. How about the Victorinox oil for the springs then, since it's so cheap. And if I ever need to lube slider parts, I'd get Super Lube and use just a tiny filmy amount. That goes for ~$6. So more like $10 total, unless I messed up with my evaluations. But those should be good enough?
Sounds like it's worth lubing the spring then and just leaving most switches alone to wear in on their own, with use. How about the Victorinox oil for the springs then, since it's so cheap. And if I ever need to lube slider parts, I'd get Super Lube and use just a tiny filmy amount. That goes for ~$6. So more like $10 total, unless I messed up with my evaluations. But those should be good enough?
i never have Victorinox oil.. i was thinking about chain oil for my bike XD