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geekhack Community => Keyboards => Topic started by: zergburger on Fri, 07 June 2013, 04:34:17
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I just bought a Model M (KB No. 1398609, Plate No. F8??? Having trouble finding info on this) with an AT to PS/2 converter.
Left Shift doesn't work with the keys 2wsx, and only the x doesn't work with the right shift (@WSx). All the other keys work fine.
No Shift
` 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 0 - =
q w e r t y u i o p [ ] \
a s d f g h j k l ; '
z x c v b n m , . /
Left Shift
~ ! ? # $ % ^ & * ( ) _ +
Q ? E R T Y U I O P { } |
A ? D F G H J K L : "
Z ? C V B N M < > ?
Right Shift
~ ! @ # $ % ^ & * ( ) _ +
Q W E R T Y U I O P { } |
A S D F G H J K L : "
Z ? C V B N M < > ?
Any ideas for a simple fix, or should I start looking up how to bolt mod?
Thanks!
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I'm also trying to play a game right now (without the ability to sprint, just to test out the keyboard) and I can move every direction except backwards left and backwards right (A+S and S+D don't work).
There are also beeps for when certain keys are pressed down (2 to 3 keys, and only specific ones). This beeping led me to believe that filter keys were on, however I doublechecked my settings and everything looks alright.
Everything works fine on my Corsair K-90 keyboard.
I've checked my language settings and they're set to US.
:( Now I'm really, really confused.
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I am curious as to why that's happening. Wouldn't it be more common if a complete row were malfunctioning rather than a column? I'd be interested to see if anyone had any insight.
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Okay, what you're looking at here is a matrix or foot plate issue almost definitely. But it's an odd one, so I can explain diagnosis to you but I can't tell you how to fix it for sure. There's a couple possibilities for causing this exact behavior.
Now, the last symptom first is what makes it a matrix problem and not a controller problem. The controller should not produce the beep (Key Error indicator) until 3 or 4 specific keys, depending on the exact keys. Shift doesn't count except in very rare cases, and speaking from experience, most FPSes don't hit those cases. That means that the matrix has a key which is registering hot. You'll want to use a matrix diagram to narrow down your possibilities of hot keys. S and D not working means it's a matrix line carrying those.
So, since we know we're looking at a matrix problem there's two basic steps before you're going to have to bolt mod.
Step the First: Check the spring and footplates from above. To do this, start popping off keys till you have all of them. Tilt the keyboard (GENTLY) and check to make sure all the springs fall forward and backward. It's normal for a few to be stiff - take note of those and check them. Pull up on them with your fingers gently. You should have no upward movement. If you feel or hear the click of a foot plate, there's your problem. If you don't find any, reinstall the keycaps one at a time and test each key to make sure that the spring is seated correctly in the keycap. I recommend having the keyboard at about a 20-30 degree inverse angle (so spacebar higher than the F-key row) and using a top (F-key row) to bottom (spacebar) motion to ensure the keycap captures the spring and seats correctly.
I really need to make a video of this technique that's visible. I've tried several times without success. It helps tremendously in ensuring that the keycap and spring are seated and positioned correctly - especially on well worn M's where the springs have more wobble.
Step the Secondish: Check the matrix connections at the PCB. This only requires shell dis-assembly and moderately careful handling. It's normal to see black marks or dark spots on the connectors themselves and they should be staggered. (Carbon film is so grand.) Use some canned air to clean out the PCB sockets (carefully!) with the matrix disconnected as well, in case there's a debris short. I would also recommend un-mounting the controller PCB (again, carefully!) and inspecting for damage or debris shorting pins. You would be amazed what can get in there over the years. You won't do any harm cleaning the chassis while it's apart as long as you don't flex it too much, but that's personal preference. While you're in there, also check the SDL socket for debris and if at all possible try a cable swap with a known good SDL-PS/2 or SDL-DIN5.
I'd also strongly recommend trying a different DIN5->PS/2 adapter. Bad connections there can produce some unpredictable behavior, especially in the event of corrosion. Been there, done that, got the t-shirt.
If the symptoms still persist, you're looking at invasive surgery AKA separating the base plate and barrel plate. Which yes, means bolt-modding is a necessary part of repair. And possibly having to replace the matrix. If all else fails, you can order the complete assembly as a single unit from Unicomp as a directly swappable part.