Oh BTW go for steel instead of Aluminum :)
How would you remove the switch tops unless you modified them individually when you add the plate (for boards with LEDs)?
How would you remove the switch tops unless you modified them individually when you add the plate (for boards with LEDs)?WFD post a method where you use a dremel to enlarger the LED slot on the top of the switch housing so that the LED can pass through. I'll post a picture to better explain this later when I get home. ;)
Do you have the plate removed now? Could you post a pic of it?This would be awesome! Do you need a picture of the bare plate? Or will a picture of the plate without the caps but with the switches and PCB still attached suffice?
I can probably help you with a drawing file to send to a laser cutter, but I need to know what holes besides the switch holes exist in the plate, and their exact location.
Something like this:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/cHVDF5k.png)
Do you have the plate removed now? Could you post a pic of it?This would be awesome! Do you need a picture of the bare plate? Or will a picture of the plate without the caps but with the switches and PCB still attached suffice?
I can probably help you with a drawing file to send to a laser cutter, but I need to know what holes besides the switch holes exist in the plate, and their exact location.
Something like this:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/cHVDF5k.png)
I'll be getting my soldering wick tomorrow and then I can start disassembling my Shine 2.
How would you remove the switch tops unless you modified them individually when you add the plate (for boards with LEDs)?WFD post a method where you use a dremel to enlarger the LED slot on the top of the switch housing so that the LED can pass through. I'll post a picture to better explain this later when I get home. ;)
This is what I was talking about...
Left -- unmodified switch top
Right -- modified switch topShow Image(http://imageshack.us/a/img829/244/7r9a.jpg)
How an unmodified switch top cannot be removed when an LED is installedShow Image(http://imageshack.us/a/img341/8872/1p6i.jpg)
How the modified switch top allows removal even when an LED is installedShow Image(http://imageshack.us/a/img441/229/2u5a.jpg)
If you could remove it from the case, and unscrew all screws, remove any removeable controller, etc. I might be able to get it from a pic of that. :)Alright, I'll do that in the morning. ;)
I just need to see where any and all holes are.
FYI if you dont have a dremel, a pair of side cutters will work just as well.Really? I'll try that out. It sounds faster to do.
If you could remove it from the case, and unscrew all screws, remove any removeable controller, etc. I might be able to get it from a pic of that. :)Alright, I'll do that in the morning. ;)
I just need to see where any and all holes are.
If you could remove it from the case, and unscrew all screws, remove any removeable controller, etc. I might be able to get it from a pic of that. :)Alright, I'll do that in the morning. ;)
I just need to see where any and all holes are.
Hey jdcarpe, here are the pictures:
Whole Plate: http://imageshack.us/a/img703/8228/t5y5.jpg (http://imageshack.us/a/img703/8228/t5y5.jpg)
Left Side Detail: http://imageshack.us/a/img6/6488/qir2.jpg (http://imageshack.us/a/img6/6488/qir2.jpg)
Right Side Detail: http://imageshack.us/a/img507/4913/n8yd.jpg (http://imageshack.us/a/img507/4913/n8yd.jpg)
Pardon the quality... :( Let me know if there is anything else you need. :)
If you could remove it from the case, and unscrew all screws, remove any removeable controller, etc. I might be able to get it from a pic of that. :)Alright, I'll do that in the morning. ;)
I just need to see where any and all holes are.
Hey jdcarpe, here are the pictures:
Whole Plate: http://imageshack.us/a/img703/8228/t5y5.jpg (http://imageshack.us/a/img703/8228/t5y5.jpg)
Left Side Detail: http://imageshack.us/a/img6/6488/qir2.jpg (http://imageshack.us/a/img6/6488/qir2.jpg)
Right Side Detail: http://imageshack.us/a/img507/4913/n8yd.jpg (http://imageshack.us/a/img507/4913/n8yd.jpg)
Pardon the quality... :( Let me know if there is anything else you need. :)
what are custom pcb plates for?The custom plates replace the existing plate so that the top cover of the the switch may be removed so that you can:
Thanks! I will work on it and post something in a couple days.Thanks so very much jd! :D
Oh BTW go for steel instead of Aluminum :)
Why steel? Isn't aluminum stiffer? Or is that dependent on the aluminum alloy?
Here you go. The screw and standoff holes may not be exactly 100% where they are on the original plate, but they should be within <1mm, and close enough that you can file/drill them out a bit to fit, if you need to.Thanks jdcarpe! You work quick! I look forward to the corrected drawing file. :DShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/2kFK7vR.png)
Edit: I had the drawing file attached, but there was a slight placement problem with the center standoff hole. I have fixed it, but my office has no internet access at the moment, due to an outage in the area. Once I can access the site from my PC again, I will attach the corrected drawing file.
Well noted. I'll check the material options when I contact the laser cutter for a quotation.Oh BTW go for steel instead of Aluminum :)
Why steel? Isn't aluminum stiffer? Or is that dependent on the aluminum alloy?
Steel is stiffer than aluminum.
It should be good now. Enjoy! :)Got it! Thanks jdcarpe!
Oh BTW go for steel instead of Aluminum :)
Why steel? Isn't aluminum stiffer? Or is that dependent on the aluminum alloy?How would you remove the switch tops unless you modified them individually when you add the plate (for boards with LEDs)?
WFD post a method where you use a dremel to enlarger the LED slot on the top of the switch housing so that the LED can pass through. I'll post a picture to better explain this later when I get home. ;)
Anyway, off to my meeting!
I'd be in for at least one, if prices are close to what I've seen for the G80-18xx and Poker plates.The IC post is pending approval. ;)
Where's that IC?
:-)
Finally got the first quote in...converted from Philippine Pesos (US$1=~PHP43), it comes out to US$83 for the 1/16" acrylic prototype and US$154 for a 1/16" stainless steel plate.
Finally got the first quote in...converted from Philippine Pesos (US$1=~PHP43), it comes out to US$83 for the 1/16" acrylic prototype and US$154 for a 1/16" stainless steel plate.
This sounds about right. To getting it anywhere near $50 for 1 made either requires some under the table stuff, or if it's a smaller company. Usually prototypes are between $100 - $300 from typical companies. Trust me, I've checked many places. What you want to do is ask them for price increments, and ask Beast to do the prototype from his local cutter.