I really fell in love with clicky Alps switches but I don't like that most Alps boards came in the old school style cases. I'm more into the modern layouts (Like a Filco Zero) so I decided I'd mod my own. This is the first keyboard I've ever modded myself.
My plans for this board? I’m going to take the following three boards
- Ducky 1087XM with Linear Black Alps clones
- Dell AT101W with Tactile Black Alps
- Focus FK-2001 with Clicky White Alps
And combine them into one board. The Ducky will provide the PCB, the Focus is going to provide the switches, and the Dell will provide the case/caps. I plan on cutting down and modding the case according to this guide (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=9542.0). Then I want to paint the case:
(http://i.imgur.com/l3qKLwO.png)
Either Valerie or Lakers from the Montana Gold Line (http://www.montana-cans.com/products/Cans/Montana_GOLD/Montana_GOLD_400ml/61#) of spraypaints.
6/15/13
I just completed Rev A:
(http://i.imgur.com/DdqTSYF.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/CQD21BN.jpg)
I desoldered the switches from the Focus and Ducky following this video from WhiteFireDragon:
The Ducky switches were saved for either a future project or for sale/trade. They’re actually not that bad. The clicky white Alps were saved to swap into the Ducky PCB.
First, I stripped the caps off the Dell and set them aside.
(http://i.imgur.com/cmOpGgD.jpg)
Board before getting naked
(http://i.imgur.com/2NPk3K1.jpg)
Naked board
(http://i.imgur.com/GL6UO3K.jpg)
Caps
Second, I desoldered the switches off the Ducky PCB/plate.
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y13/khaangaaroo/PK5_0851.jpg)
Picture of the board, borrowed from khaangaaroo (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=31923.0).
(http://i.imgur.com/Yh428Wp.jpg)
Board with the “top” removed
(http://i.imgur.com/4SCXXC7.jpg)
Closeup of the retaining screws in the plate
(http://i.imgur.com/JEQliZH.jpg)
Closeup of the retaining screws in the back holding in the “top” and plate
(http://i.imgur.com/tZB3sfo.jpg)
Side view of the PCB/Plate/Switches pre-disassembly
(http://i.imgur.com/bKy7MfD.jpg)
PCB stripped off the plate with some switches removed. The switches have a tab that you press in and frees the switch from the plate. You press the tab in and then push the switch until it pops out.
(http://i.imgur.com/TLOZxR4.jpg)
Other side of the switch which has the other tab. The picture below is just the plate.
(http://i.imgur.com/Of8bG1W.jpg)
Third, I stripped the caps off the Focus and opened the case.
(http://i.imgur.com/eRCcIl2.jpg)
Board pre-teardown
(http://i.imgur.com/KG4BHj1.jpg)
Cap close up
(http://i.imgur.com/1lpedKr.jpg)
Look at the flex in that board as I’m trying to take the caps off!
(http://i.imgur.com/5o7g9pE.jpg)
Naked board
(http://i.imgur.com/UuNuUGm.jpg)
Snap fit
(http://i.imgur.com/OVtvx2q.jpg)
Close-up of the controller
(http://i.imgur.com/b8fc8qe.jpg)
Close-up of the LEDs
(http://i.imgur.com/011xZtW.jpg)
PCB, plate, and switches flipped upside down
(http://i.imgur.com/yVML3PW.jpg)
Plate and switches without the PCB, the plate was metal!
(http://i.imgur.com/oSAnHi6.jpg)
PCB top
(http://i.imgur.com/ZGAWSVT.jpg)
Just the plate, also metal!
(http://i.imgur.com/jdQfAK4.jpg)
Closeup of the Linear Black Alps clones and Clicky White Alps switches
The pictures don't show it but half the legs on the Focus switches were bent over so I spent A TON of time rebending them so they stood up/out straight.
So now I have a bunch of loose parts: 2 PCBs, a bunch of switches and 2 cases. I took the white Alps and put them onto the Ducky plate, then press fit the PCB onto the plate. The little legs on the back of the switch pass through the PCB. Unfortunately, I messed up one of the pin placements and bent it. This is causing the Delete key to not work properly. I believe if I stick a piece of hookup wire into the hole down far enough, and solder the wire into place, I can still get functionality.
(http://i.imgur.com/3CJsRDw.jpg)
Example of my soldering job.
(http://i.imgur.com/FpbeEBi.jpg)
I burned the PCB right near the Delete key and you can see how the leg doesn’t pass through the PCB.
Then I put the caps from the Dell AT101W on to the board only to realize I lost some stabilizer inserts. That’s why the board has a mix of Dell AT101W caps and stock 1087XM modifiers.
(http://i.imgur.com/qAPblc3.jpg)
Another shot of Rev A of the Tofu101
So I've been typing on it for the last hour or two. The clicky white Alps feel less crispy than they did when they were on the Focus board. The board works fine except for the Delete key.
What I need help with
- How do I fix the Delete key that I borked without de-soldering the entire board?
Going to try and use a piece of hookup wire to fix it. Otherwise, I'm not sure it matters so much since I still plan on cutting the AT101W case down.
- When I hit Scroll Lock, there's a weird function layer similar to the layer that the Model F has. Does anyone have an information on this?
See this post (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=44810.msg931433#msg931433).
- Does anyone have a picture of the stabilizer insert and modifier from a Dell AT101W?
Dubsgalore is shipping me a second AT101W. Thanks bro, I'm going to have the proper caps on this board finally.
- Does anyone know how to attach two halves of a keyboard case? See the picture below from this thread (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=9542.0).
Answer found here (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=44875.msg940859#msg940859).
(http://kbdholic.net/img/dell-saver/img_3841.jpg)