geekhack
geekhack Projects => Making Stuff Together! => Topic started by: remedyhalopc on Mon, 01 July 2013, 19:34:15
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So I'm building this Filco, and the caps lock/print screen just doesn't work. I thought maybe it was a bad housing, so I replaced it. Same result. Did that 3 more times for science sake, and still nothing.
I inspect traces, and nothing seems odd, burnt, or peeling. I'm at a loss here. Every other key on the board works besides these two. I reseated the controller (its a HID Liberation device..any chance it's disabled though this, and how do I check?) and still got nothing. The caps lock LED worked when I tested it within a program.
Don't know where to go from here. Halp.
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Try this controller on another keyboard or put usual Filco's controller in here? I might be wrong.
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I don't have either.
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Maybe something wrong with switches?
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Replaced the switch housing 3 times. Even tried entirely different switch types from Clears.
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Replaced the switch housing 3 times. Even tried entirely different switch types from Clears.
Then problem is in the controller, probably.
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Just because the traces look fine doesn't mean they truly are. 2 specific keys does NOT sound like a controller problem to me as a whole string of keys attached to a pin shouldn't work, not just 2.
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Just because the traces look fine doesn't mean they truly are. 2 specific keys does NOT sound like a controller problem to me as a whole string of keys attached to a pin shouldn't work, not just 2.
Print Screen is working. Sorry, my key tester wasn't registering the press, but it works. Took several screenshots, and even opened a game and set it as my walk key.
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I would try aqua test first
http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=34670.msg641440#msg641440
just to make sure that your capslock is not mapped to something else like control.
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I would try aqua test first
http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=34670.msg641440#msg641440
just to make sure that your capslock is not mapped to something else like control.
ITS NOT BUT SOMEHOW IVE ENABLED CAPS LOCK...
SO CONFUSED
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Check the entirety of the capslock traces and diode with a multimeter for continuity, resistance, and a 100ma current test. That should confirm/deny if it is the traces/diode, and pinpoint where to fix it.
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What should my resistance readings/continuity look like?
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Scratch the 100ma, cherry switches are only rated for 10ma so use that.
Put your multimeter in continuity test mode. If a trace has continuity your multimeter beeps. Cheap multimeters may not have a continuity test. If a trace doesn't have continuity (beeps) it's ****ed.
If it beeps for all the traces, then put your multimeter in resistance test mode. If a trace has some resistance (more than an ohm) without any resistors it's ****ed.
If there is no resistance (or less than an ohm) for all the traces, then put your multimeter in the appropriate amperage test mode. Connect a 5v power source with a 500 ohm 1% 1/4 watt resistor in line with the traces and multimeter. With the diode there should be less than 10ma, but the traces should read ~10ma. If a trace gets less than 10ma it's ****ed.
A fourth test that can only be used on really expensive multimeters allows you to see a graph of the voltage and amperage across the switch, traces, and diode. It would allow you to see if there is any chattering in a switch, but that is redundant seeing as you have already tried multiple switches so it can't be chattering.
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Well I definitely need that info for the future, and its certainly could be used in our wiki.
Turns out it was the controller. It was mapped oddly. All good now.