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geekhack Community => Other Geeky Stuff => Topic started by: tipo33 on Mon, 15 July 2013, 03:09:36
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I am building a headless server and wanted a specific feature. Anyone here remember the "blinkenlights" on the original PowerPC BeBoxes? I remmember reading a DIY about the same time that showed you how to make your own blinkenlights that could hook up to any PC with a serial port. I have tried to find the article, but can't :( Does anyone have a link or know of a simmilar project? A modern rendition maybe? other random ideas?
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It shouldn't be hard to hook up a teensy (usb! modern!) and a pile of LEDs. The hard part is making it useful and interesting :)
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I'm not so sure what you are trying to accomplish but I think you could use a micro controller like the easy to use arduino.
There are a ton of howto's for LED related projects using that platform. You can also interact with the pc via usb or serial.
http://www.arduino.cc/
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I am building a headless server and wanted a specific feature. Anyone here remember the "blinkenlights" on the original PowerPC BeBoxes? I remmember reading a DIY about the same time that showed you how to make your own blinkenlights that could hook up to any PC with a serial port. I have tried to find the article, but can't :( Does anyone have a link or know of a simmilar project? A modern rendition maybe? other random ideas?
I still have a BeBox and I love the Blinkenlights so much that I made a modern Windows version. The machine and pictures are at home, so I'll post the pictures tonight. Basically, I used a Teensy++ and 40 LEDs. Each CPU's load is represented by 10 LEDs: 4 green, 3 yellow, and 3 red. When I peg the CPU's, it like a Christmas Tree! [said in my mind with the voice of Will Ferrel in Elf].
I wrote a windows service that send the CPU data as 4 ASCII characters out the virtual USB serial port (AAAA = no load, KKKK = full load on all CPU). The service sends the load information 10 times a second. The Teensy code has ramping code: it steps through each intermediate level on it's way to the next level. Very smooth. I didn't use any matrix programming (each LED has it's own dedicated signal line). As a result, the display look super smooth: no flicker at all.
Because I'm rubbish at soldering, the project is completely soldering free!
If you're interested, I can send you the code for the Windows Service and the Teensy.
The whole thing fits into an old-style Antec case door.
The only problem is now I never want to upgrade my case.
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I would LOVE to get the schematics and code for the project! I only use *nix, so I will do a bit of research into how I can incorporate it. Mine also is going into an Antec as well, but I don't plan on getting rid of it anytime soon. It will serve as my home router, and I just want to look over and see how it's doing.
On a different note, You have a BeBox?? I've drooled over those ever since I was a kid. Do you have a 66 or 133? PICKS!!!
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I would LOVE to get the schematics and code for the project! I only use *nix, so I will do a bit of research into how I can incorporate it. Mine also is going into an Antec as well, but I don't plan on getting rid of it anytime soon. It will serve as my home router, and I just want to look over and see how it's doing.
On a different note, You have a BeBox?? I've drooled over those ever since I was a kid. Do you have a 66 or 133? PICKS!!!
I don't have schematics, but you won't need them. I'll send you detailed pictures. Once you see it, you'll know what I mean. Regarding the service, I once wrote a daemon for my MythTV box that talked to a Teensy++. It was super easy (and I know little to nothing about Linux), so I'm sure you'll have no problems. The old Antec cases had a front door with air vents parallel to the door. It's out these vents that the LED stick. I really wish I had photos on my phone still.
Regarding the BeBox, I have a 133, white side bezel. Even though I hardly ever use it, I've never regretted buying it. It just too cool!
There's a BeBox on ebay right now ( http://www.ebay.com/itm/130948080225 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/130948080225) ). Mine looks the same but it's Dual PPC603 @ 133 MHz.
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Yhea, I was looking at them today. I was hoping to keep it on the down low. lol
Looking forward to the picks!
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Here are the pictures of my prototype of modern Das Blinkenlights. It's just a prototype (although I've been using it for about 8 years now), so don't be too critical of the rough finish.
Quad core machine under full load:
(http://i.imgur.com/ObRaxUb.jpg)
Core 4 is up to something:
(http://i.imgur.com/Cetu77q.jpg?1)
Close-up of the LEDs sticking out:
(http://i.imgur.com/m3ymwE3.jpg?1)
How it looks when I open the door:
(http://i.imgur.com/InUuRKM.jpg?1)
Tore-off the cardboard to see the inside. I wish I had shorter IDE cables.
(http://i.imgur.com/RrCbE6C.jpg?1)
40-pin dual channel IDE cable is near perfect. Odd pins for one display. Even pins for the other side.
(http://i.imgur.com/IIi4qwG.jpg?1)
(http://i.imgur.com/gcWhaz1.jpg?1)
Close-up of the controller on it's breadboard. Solder-Free!!! Under the resistors are 40 pins for the grounds.
(http://i.imgur.com/lNrIsiJ.jpg?1)
It's far from perfect. But it works without a problem, and looks good from the outside.
Parts and Cost:
Teensy++: $24
Breadboard: $10
40 Resistors: ? (I had a strip lying around)
40 LEDs: $10 at RadioShack (not the cheapest, but I didn't want to wait).
IDE cabels: Free
So all told about: $50.
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Those IDE cables (for your purpose) can easily be shortened. You need to be careful pulling the connector off one end so that you don't damage the pins, but then you can re-seat the cable at the new length with a vise. Trim the excess cable off AFTER getting the connector back on with an X-acto knife.
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Those IDE cables (for your purpose) can easily be shortened. You need to be careful pulling the connector off one end so that you don't damage the pins, but then you can re-seat the cable at the new length with a vise. Trim the excess cable off AFTER getting the connector back on with an X-acto knife.
Good idea. I actually found so 5 inch dual IDE cables a few years back. But I've been too lazy to change the cables. It works as it is. And when the cardboard is glued on, I don't ever see the mess.
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http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=149689.0