Possibly a bad question, but is the plate so close that it could be touching anything on the PCB that protrudes upward? When you inspect the PCB, you don't see any lifted traces or anything like that near the non-working switches? And as Sifo mentioned, you made sure that both pins on all the non-working switches actually did stick through the holes before soldering them in? (hard to not notice, but hey!)
Possibly a bad question, but is the plate so close that it could be touching anything on the PCB that protrudes upward? When you inspect the PCB, you don't see any lifted traces or anything like that near the non-working switches? And as Sifo mentioned, you made sure that both pins on all the non-working switches actually did stick through the holes before soldering them in? (hard to not notice, but hey!)
You could always desolder one of the bad switches and try to neatly solder it back in to see if it works after that. That could give you a clue.
Lifted is not that bad. Damaged would mean repairing with wires or such (Id ask in the soldering thread). But when you were soldering in the switches, I assume you'd notice that you have a pin missing from a hole, as you wouldn't have anything to press your soldering iron against. I'd just try re soldering one of the "bad" switches.
That should not affect operation (pulling out those copper metal inserts). Filco PCBs have them, not sure about Poker.I wish I would have known that! It happened to me and I ended up trying to install it back in and since it worked I thought "thank goodness" haha. I Thought I resolved a problem.
Still not working? I can't really tell from the photos :( The flux makes it look messy and hard to see under. The bottom photo looks like the middle-left switch is in a poor state, possibly with a damaged trace? Looks like the plate keeps the pins farther away from the PCB? This is how far the pins were sticking out on my Filco after soldering in new switches (before thorough cleanup of the PCB)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/F87XlVf.jpg)
I used more solder because I was trying to get it all through the PCB into those copper tube inserts.
I don't know that it would be a problem, unless it's touching something on the PCB perhaps and shorting it. Technically as long as there's a bridge of metal between the pins and those rings on the PCB, the switches should work. I was just asking because it looked like you didn't insert the switches all the way through into the PCB--unless the plate is very thick or there's stuff on the PCB pushing the plate up. When inserting the plate-mounted switches through the PCB on my Filco, it was a gradual process, making sure nothing was interfering, no pins were bending, etc. The plastic bottoms of your switches seem to be floating in those holes, not coming through.
P.S.: Oh I see, you still have the plastic pins for PCB mounting left on. I thought they should be clipped when used with a plate. That could be an issue. Look up plate-mounted switches vs. pcb-mounted switches.
Test the board without the case, and without anything touching the bottom side of the switches, and see if it works, if everything does, it might be a shorting problem and a simple rubber mat under the pcb would fix it, if NOT, then the traces might be damaged.
Kinda looks like you used bare minimal solder on some of the switches, I'd try adding some more to the ones that are a little concave. I try to make them look like Hersey kisses considering the amount of typing force that will be used on the switches. But from your pictures your "Y" and "0" don't look like they are in good shape, when I solder I try to ONLY heat up the pin on the switches and the solder itself; when I DEsolder, I only try to heat up the solder, rarely the pins or the trace, too much heat time on the traces or the pcb makes it more delicate to mod in the future. Test the board without the case, and without anything touching the bottom side of the switches, and see if it works, if everything does, it might be a shorting problem and a simple rubber mat under the pcb would fix it, if NOT, then the traces might be damaged.
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That is exactly what I did...I should've practiced on a Dell AT101 I have lying around, but I am stubborn and what to just get things done. Ugh...that is what I get. I'll try to fix or find someone who could fix this problem in the near future...I really want this board useable.
Those are to channel solder through the hole to the other side of the PCB, for greater support (so each pin is more "solidly" in the PCB). Filco advertises that in their product ads as a feature. And it also makes desoldering switches from Filco PCBs a greater annoyance. I freaked out as well when I pulled a ring out, but turned out it was no big deal. The metal ring on the outside of the PCB, where you're soldering, is the relevant part to make a metal-to-metal connection with solder, as that's what is connected to the traces.
P.S.: Oh I see, you still have the plastic pins for PCB mounting left on. I thought they should be clipped when used with a plate. That could be an issue. Look up plate-mounted switches vs. pcb-mounted switches.
These are pictures of the switches that aren't working. I just switched out the switch housing and resoldered them. I am never going to use the Radioshack desolderer again...it doesn't suck the solder half the time and it is ruining the PCB...I even let it heat up for more than an hour.
I don't think it's possible to damage the copper with the heat of a desoldering / soldering iron.
You can lift traces if you overheat the PCBs.
You can lift traces if you overheat the PCBs.
I am afraid that I have definitely done this, more than once.
You can lift traces if you overheat the PCBs.
I am afraid that I have definitely done this, more than once.
I'm sorry you couldn't enjoy your upgraded toy--hopefully it will get fixed up proper soon :) I'm sure it will be all worth it in the end!
I'm sorry you couldn't enjoy your upgraded toy--hopefully it will get fixed up proper soon :) I'm sure it will be all worth it in the end!
Me too. I might buy either a IBM Model M or just save the effort of trying to buy one in good shape and just get a Unicomp 101 in the meantime.
I'm sorry you couldn't enjoy your upgraded toy--hopefully it will get fixed up proper soon :) I'm sure it will be all worth it in the end!
Me too. I might buy either a IBM Model M or just save the effort of trying to buy one in good shape and just get a Unicomp 101 in the meantime.
How did you end up burning the traces, I would guess was while desoldering, did you set ur station on 300C temp? did you used anytype of sucker or you were trying to dig in with the pencil and wick while working with high temps? its ok dude stuff happens, its how we learn :) Next time when you desolder try using something that's cheap and efficient at the same time, for example RadioShack desolder iron with pump that cost $15 + another 2-3 spare tips that cost $2 each = $20 and free shipping if u buy them trough RadioShack ebay store. I would say 95% efficient desolder results + its safe, the other 5% you can remove with wick in matter of minutes, and don't forget 300C max 350C.
BTW I'm planning to put my bolt modded IBM for sale its customized and comes with extra set of black blank caps.
I used the desoldering iron. It burned the traces when I had solder that was being stubborn and wouldn't get sucked in.
I used the desoldering iron. It burned the traces when I had solder that was being stubborn and wouldn't get sucked in.
I used the desoldering iron. It burned the traces when I had solder that was being stubborn and wouldn't get sucked in.
So this is how you damaged those traces. If you can't get all the solder sucked up in 1 shot, then you have to add solder back into the hole, then try again. If you only partially sucked up the solder, then you won't be able to effectively melt the remaining solder at the very bottom of the hole.
It's not hard to damage traces, but at the same time, it's easily avoidable. Pressure, high heat, and leaving iron tips on too long are PCB killers.
This is the soldering iron I used to use;
(Attachment Link)
This is the soldering iron I used to use;
(Attachment Link)
Can't tell if you're serious or not. Was that iron passed down 10 generations?