geekhack
geekhack Community => Keyboards => Topic started by: nsrexler on Sat, 03 August 2013, 20:48:00
-
I have a Unicomp Model M that I love, but I don't use it much anymore because it's just so damn loud. I tried the floss mod on it and ended up undoing it because it ruined the feel for me.
The other day I had the case open to clean the keyboard, and I happened to press on a few of the keys just playing around. I noticed that the sound was much quieter than normal, and, on top of that, seemed more precise. This leads me to believe a significant portion of the noise from the Model M comes from reverberation in the case. How can I fix this? Is there some sort of foam I can stuff inside the case to dampen the sound?
-
I have a Unicomp Model M that I love, but I don't use it much anymore because it's just so damn loud. I tried the floss mod on it and ended up undoing it because it ruined the feel for me.
The other day I had the case open to clean the keyboard, and I happened to press on a few of the keys just playing around. I noticed that the sound was much quieter than normal, and, on top of that, seemed more precise. This leads me to believe a significant portion of the noise from the Model M comes from reverberation in the case. How can I fix this? Is there some sort of foam I can stuff inside the case to dampen the sound?
You can use damping foam but don't confuse a genuine Model M with a Unicomp. Unicomp has changed the chassis molds and depending on model, designed their own. Any standard non-conductive noise reduction foam is fine, but it sounds a lot more like a lack of rigidity issue to me than anything else.
-
I have a Unicomp Model M that I love, but I don't use it much anymore because it's just so damn loud. I tried the floss mod on it and ended up undoing it because it ruined the feel for me.
The other day I had the case open to clean the keyboard, and I happened to press on a few of the keys just playing around. I noticed that the sound was much quieter than normal, and, on top of that, seemed more precise. This leads me to believe a significant portion of the noise from the Model M comes from reverberation in the case. How can I fix this? Is there some sort of foam I can stuff inside the case to dampen the sound?
You can use damping foam but don't confuse a genuine Model M with a Unicomp. Unicomp has changed the chassis molds and depending on model, designed their own. Any standard non-conductive noise reduction foam is fine, but it sounds a lot more like a lack of rigidity issue to me than anything else.
What would you recommend, then? I considered bolt-modding it, but all the rivets are still intact so I'm not sure that there would be significant benefit.
-
The floss mod is not as nice on a Model M as on an F, but it does not have to harm the action.
If the floss completely fills the spring, the effect is the greatest. Cutting it a little shorter, say, 2/3 to 3/4, will cut the noise almost as much and affect the action less (remember that it has to be more than 1/2 because that is where the spring actually buckles!).
Packing the cavities with soft fluff of some sort will help, but running something like duct tape or rubber cement on the inside of the case will deaden the actual vibrations of the "sounding board" itself.
-
The floss mod is not as nice on a Model M as on an F, but it does not have to harm the action.
If the floss completely fills the spring, the effect is the greatest. Cutting it a little shorter, say, 2/3 to 3/4, will cut the noise almost as much and affect the action less (remember that it has to be more than 1/2 because that is where the spring actually buckles!).
Packing the cavities with soft fluff of some sort will help, but running something like duct tape or rubber cement on the inside of the case will deaden the actual vibrations of the "sounding board" itself.
You can do this on the original model Ms too? I am getting one soon and if I decide its too loud, I would want to dampen it.
-
Packing the cavities with soft fluff of some sort will help, but running something like duct tape or rubber cement on the inside of the case will deaden the actual vibrations of the "sounding board" itself.
Can you elaborate on this? Where should I apply the duct tape to get the best effect?
-
The floss mod is not as nice on a Model M as on an F, but it does not have to harm the action.
If the floss completely fills the spring, the effect is the greatest. Cutting it a little shorter, say, 2/3 to 3/4, will cut the noise almost as much and affect the action less (remember that it has to be more than 1/2 because that is where the spring actually buckles!).
Packing the cavities with soft fluff of some sort will help, but running something like duct tape or rubber cement on the inside of the case will deaden the actual vibrations of the "sounding board" itself.
never heard of running a little duct tape on the inside, but it sure makes since. did you do this on a model m and where inside?
my f has a pretty pronounced ping at times and i would assume it would do the same........
-
Personally, I have not yet used duct tape, but intend to try it the next time I get into it. I plan to cut rubber strips and sandwich them in with duct tape.
I have used black electrician's friction tape to good effect, and have painted the inside of cases with "rubber paint" of various types. I thought that each made very small, but noticeable improvements.
Just packing the voids can help a fair bit, but have not decided whether I prefer "fluff" like pillow stuffing that just takes up space, or something like foam rubber that exerts forces outwards from itself.
I will focus my next experiments on deadening the resonance of the hard surfaces themselves.
-
keep us posted..........
thanks :thumb:
-
Alright, well I guess I'll go to the hardware/crafts store and get a couple of different materials and see what works.
-
Has anyone tried one of the automotive sound deadener products like Dynamat? Seems like that might be the ultimate resonance reducer, although it's pretty pricey.
-
Has anyone tried one of the automotive sound deadener products like Dynamat? Seems like that might be the ultimate resonance reducer, although it's pretty pricey.
I was thinking of trying that as well. Dynamat comes in sheets, but IIRC correctly, they also have a pourable version.
Looks like you can get a 18" x 32" sheet of their thinner version (1/8"?) for $26.00 shipped CONUS.
http://www.amazon.com/Dynamat-10425-Self-Adhesive-Deadener-Xtreme/dp/B00020CAVA/ref=pd_sbs_auto_7 (http://www.amazon.com/Dynamat-10425-Self-Adhesive-Deadener-Xtreme/dp/B00020CAVA/ref=pd_sbs_auto_7)
I was amused by this comment, though:
It does have one drawback, and that's the fact that once you stick it on something, you will not be able to get it off without making a big mess. It is essentially tar with a foil outer cover, and trying to get it off just leaves a bunch of sticky tar behind. So, choose the place you want it carefully before sticking it down!
:p
-
Yeah, definitely not a reversible process! If you try it, please post a review.
-
In my younger years when I used to upgrade the audio systems in my cars, we used a product just like Dynamat, but it was significantly less expensive called RAAM audio mat (though I'm not sure it is any less expensive anymore).
But I don't think I would recommend it for use in a Model M - you would pretty much destroy it inside. Same goes for something like expanding foam - unless you had the packing version that was contained within its own plastic bag.
You'd probably be better off with felt or maybe drawer liner. Never really thought about quieting down my daily driver before, the only people it would bother is whoever comes to bug me in my office.
-
You'd probably be better off with felt or maybe drawer liner.
I have used both and like them a lot. The rubber "waffle" drawer liner is a great mat for the board to sit on the desk - non-slip and dampening too.