Hmm. Maybe I'll give WFD a shout, see if he wants to do another GBI wouldn't ask him to do another GB. He's a busy guy.. However, he may have some spare plates. Also, I edited my previous post.
Well, too late. I just sent him a PM asking if he'd be interested. If he says no, no harm done right?
And I asked, failing that, if he could point me in the right direction for sourcing plates and PCBs so I could try and run the GB on my end (preferrably with a CONUS proxy)
Are there any other TKL PCBs out there? In the universal/Filco/QFR style? Or is Phantom the only one?if you are talking about pcb, i think PS2AVR87 can be count as one. but PS2AVR87 can buy from GON.
Are there any other TKL PCBs out there? In the universal/Filco/QFR style? Or is Phantom the only one?There are others, but the Phantom is the only one that fits the QFR/Filco etc.
Nobody interested in taking the reigns on this one? Seems like we've got plenty of buyers, we just need a recognized forum member to stand up and take the lead on the GB.
Nobody interested in taking the reigns on this one? Seems like we've got plenty of buyers, we just need a recognized forum member to stand up and take the lead on the GB.With everything going on atm I don't think this would be possible until atleast next year.
Nobody interested in taking the reigns on this one? Seems like we've got plenty of buyers, we just need a recognized forum member to stand up and take the lead on the GB.Why not run it yourself?
I'd be interested in this as well, and willing to run the GB as I may get acrylic cut at cheap where I'm located, but not for atleast 2-3 months once my current projects are finished.I wouldn't recommend acrylic plates.
I wouldn't recommend acrylic plates.Why not?
Because acrylic, especially at 1.5mm (cherry spec thickness), is very flimsy.I wouldn't recommend acrylic plates.Why not?
Edit: OP, checked this: http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=44896.0
Nobody interested in taking the reigns on this one? Seems like we've got plenty of buyers, we just need a recognized forum member to stand up and take the lead on the GB.Why not run it yourself?
I have the time, but not the connections. I don't know who to go to for a good price, and I know there's people out there who have done the GB before. If anyone wants to let me know who they've gone to in the past, I'd be happy to set this up. But I personally feel less comfortable sending hundreds of dollars to a member who was new on the boards, and wasn't a proven, trustworthy member.That's fair enough. If you do want to try and run it yourself :
Additionally, even though I can send out conus shipping, shipping to me, and back from me, would add a total of 2-3 weeks shipping time.
I feel like my running the GB would create more problems than it would solve.
However, if people want me to go forward with it, and I can get some info on who's run GBs like it in the past, with info on who to talk to for quotes, and a proxy set up stateside for shipping, yeah, I can do it.
So, that being said. Who's run past GBs for plates? And does anybody know who manufactured them?
Anybody have a link to the blueprint for the plate, and who created/owns the details so I can get permission?
There's a lot of information I need to gather for this, but I'll happily seek it. If nobody steps up, I'll probably put up the GB next week for it, and start contacting manufacturers.
There's a lot of information I need to gather for this, but I'll happily seek it. If nobody steps up, I'll probably put up the GB next week for it, and start contacting manufacturers.
There's a lot of information I need to gather for this, but I'll happily seek it. If nobody steps up, I'll probably put up the GB next week for it, and start contacting manufacturers.
setting up a GB without a manufacture, price tiers, test plates... is a setup for disaster
What material do you plan on getting these made from?
What material do you plan on getting these made from?
Aluminum is the standard, no? Inexpensive, lightweight (though I like weight), and relatively strong.
Oh! That's cool.
I'm fine either way, but wouldn't mind getting it anodized, and I figure Au would be cheaper to source and work.
Any input? What do you guys prefer?
The plate needs to be exactly 0.060" in thickness in order for the switches and stabilizers to mount correctly. Recent plates have been made from 16-gauge stainless steel, which is 0.0625" thick, and it works fairly well, but sometimes you have to file the plate for the stabilizers to mount properly, etc. Stainless steel has the weight advantage over aluminum, as most people like heavy plate-mounted keyboards.
The original Phantom plates were made from 16-gauge aluminum, which was then sanded to spec, and then anodized black. Very nicely done, if you ask me.
Edit: As others have said, acrylic at that thickness is just too fragile. While installing the stabilizers onto my Epsilon's acrylic plate, I cracked the plate in a few locations.
I like acrylic, there are some questions over its strength, which I am looking answers for.
I like acrylic, there are some questions over its strength, which I am looking answers for.
I also have an Epsilon acrylic plate that is extremely flimsy. I would not buy acrylic plates unless they were very thick and reinforced. I have some for my Alixinzhai case and I'm not interested in using it. Going to hunt down a metal plate.
I was thinking, since I know absolutely nothing about PCBs, I would save that for another GB, but if WFD doesn't mind us using his Phantom, then I guess I don't need to know anything about PCBs to set up the GB.
We'll see once I start hearing back from people, I know WFD is just coming off of vacation today.
The Phantom is bpiphany's baby. He has everything set up with PCBwing, so if another GB round were to be done for the Phantom PCB, it would need to go through him. No sense in paying setup costs, when future orders of the same PCB don't charge for it. You can find his email address silkscreened on the front of the Phantom PCB.
For the universal TKL plate, WFD has the drawing files, so he can probably coordinate things through his laser cutter. However, as you know, he is on vacation, and also very busy. :)
The Phantom is bpiphany's baby. He has everything set up with PCBwing, so if another GB round were to be done for the Phantom PCB, it would need to go through him. No sense in paying setup costs, when future orders of the same PCB don't charge for it. You can find his email address silkscreened on the front of the Phantom PCB.
For the universal TKL plate, WFD has the drawing files, so he can probably coordinate things through his laser cutter. However, as you know, he is on vacation, and also very busy. :)
A little off-topic.
Jd do you know why for R2 the holes in the extra holes for pcb style switches were removed from the PCB? I'm sure I've asked before but I can't remember.
The Phantom is bpiphany's baby. He has everything set up with PCBwing, so if another GB round were to be done for the Phantom PCB, it would need to go through him. No sense in paying setup costs, when future orders of the same PCB don't charge for it. You can find his email address silkscreened on the front of the Phantom PCB.
For the universal TKL plate, WFD has the drawing files, so he can probably coordinate things through his laser cutter. However, as you know, he is on vacation, and also very busy. :)
A little off-topic.
Jd do you know why for R2 the holes in the extra holes for pcb style switches were removed from the PCB? I'm sure I've asked before but I can't remember.
Phantom PCB never had PCB mounting holes for switches. It originally did have holes so that you could release the switch housing top clips from the bottom of the PCB, but bpiphany removed those in the new revision PCBs, because they aren't necessary at all. He also changed some stuff on the silkscreen. :)
But just letting you know ahead of time that they do not deal with individuals, and you must send official blueprints (not just a raw DXF file) before they go through quoting process.
A few things I want to mention. OP, you mentioned PCB a few times, and the only TKL PCB we can get are phantoms, which I have no ties to. bphiphany designed it and controls the production of them. Teensy you can just buy on your own.
The plates however, I can help with those. I designed and ran the GB for all universal TKL plates, and all phantom R2 plates.
Cost between raw material is not much (only a few bucks). Majority of the cost in the plate is the laser machine time and programming fees. I had batches of aluminum and stainless steel plates before, and I personally like the steel one better for the weight and rigidity. Quality of the cuts on aluminum is a tad lower because they're more prone to local warping from high temps. Stainless steel is more resistant to temperature warping, so the edges turn out a little sharper and cleaner. As for color, anodizing adds a big chunk to cost and is only available for aluminum. Powder coating is also an option, but costs even more than anodizing, but it can be done for both aluminum or steel.
As for sourcing manufacturers, you'll have to source a company that has a laser cutter with at least 3kw with tolerances of 0.002" or better, otherwise switch and stabilizer holes will be too loose. I sourced about 15 different local places around me, price and quality varies between different companies/machines, so prototype is a must. You might be able to source cheaper places that are further, but shipping these heavy plates around is not cheap (hence why I did everything local, and picked them up myself).
I can help you get these made, or give you contact info for the local company. But just letting you know ahead of time that they do not deal with individuals, and you must send official blueprints (not just a raw DXF file) before they go through quoting process. If you want to do it through my account, then it'll be a few weeks before I have time to run another batch.
I have some left after shipping out the preorders, but there were more people that wanted plates than the numbers of extras I have. Not sure what the fairest way to sell them would be.
I have some left after shipping out the preorders, but there were more people that wanted plates than the numbers of extras I have. Not sure what the fairest way to sell them would be.
Cool. Once things settle down on my end, I'll PM Epipany
Cool. Once things settle down on my end, I'll PM Epipany
Ahead of you, already PMed.
Cool. Once things settle down on my end, I'll PM Epipany
Ahead of you, already PMed.
Well, damn.
What am I even doing here? You want to take this one?
Phantom PCB is now available for purchase from MechanicalKeyboards.com here (http://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=536)Oh, ok thanks for the info JD, I was looking for one for a long time!
I could help on plates that is, but it won't be a GB and I wouldn't be able to ship until after Thanksgiving
I could help on plates that is, but it won't be a GB and I wouldn't be able to ship until after Thanksgiving
Would this be more expensive than doing a GB, then? What material and cutting method are we talking about? Any chance to get it anodized if it's alum?
Any idea how much more expensive we'd be looking at, getting it done in ones and twos as opposed to a GB?
Any idea how much more expensive we'd be looking at, getting it done in ones and twos as opposed to a GB?
They wouldn't be bought in ones and twos. It would be a pre-order like the tools I just ran
Any idea how much more expensive we'd be looking at, getting it done in ones and twos as opposed to a GB?
They wouldn't be bought in ones and twos. It would be a pre-order like the tools I just ran
Oh, when you said you wouldn't be doing a GB, I has assumed you mean it wouldn't be in a group. I understand now, you were defining group buy as not-for-profit, which is not where I draw the distinction.
Very curious what sort of pricing we'd be looking at, especially anodized.
If you're doing this anyways, I'd be happy waiting and letting you take the reigns. I'm not trying to step on your toes, as a vendor, and there's no need for us both to be doing the work and cutting each other's numbers.
Personally, I think vendors should be able to do GBs, because it's still a group buy. As long as the vendor is upfront about what it is, and that they're taking a cut, because they're a respectable vendor, and you're not just throwing your money into the wind. You're paying for that reliability. But hey, I'm just talking aloud here.
I don't have a problem with anyone that runs a gb taking a bit of profit, after all that time invested you could have done something else completely with.
I especially don't have a problem when it's a vendor or otherwise known salesperson.
Beast, do you have a ballpark guess for cost per plate?
Thanks Beast. That seems to be reasonable.
I am guessing the aluminum is cheaper to source and have cut than stainless? It doesn't sound like the anodizing would add much to the cost if done in bulk like that.
Thanks Beast. That seems to be reasonable.
I am guessing the aluminum is cheaper to source and have cut than stainless? It doesn't sound like the anodizing would add much to the cost if done in bulk like that.
Aluminum is cheaper but not by a whole lot. My cutter actually prefers SS for some reason.
Remaining parts? Is there anything else needed to get a phantom up and running beside a teensy?
PCB, Teensy, Cable, Plate, Switches, Case?
Stabs be expensive
Aluminum is cheaper but not by a whole lot. My cutter actually prefers SS for some reason.
Aluminum is cheaper but not by a whole lot. My cutter actually prefers SS for some reason.
I prefer SS as well for a plate, but people in this thread seem to be talking about aluminum. I could go either way. I guess since my phantom plate is SS, aluminum would be something different.
I personally prefer SS as well. I'd probably paint it.
But if we went with Alum, I would hope we do a color other than black for the anodization. Maybe white (if that's even possible) or silver/gray...
Stabs be expensive
I hope ur joking :D
Stabs be expensive
I hope ur joking :D
how much are cherry pcb mount stabs? including the stem and wire
moz, if you're building off a Phantom PCB then you cannot use pcb stabs, must use plate mount, either cherry or costar. Costar can be found cheaply on wasd. Plate mount cherry can be found on mouser I think or people sell them as parts from old boards from time to time, usually for about $5 per set, but you generally have to bend your own space bar wire. Cherry wires are easy enough to bend. Costar are not easy
moz, if you're building off a Phantom PCB then you cannot use pcb stabs, must use plate mount, either cherry or costar. Costar can be found cheaply on wasd. Plate mount cherry can be found on mouser I think or people sell them as parts from old boards from time to time, usually for about $5 per set, but you generally have to bend your own space bar wire. Cherry wires are easy enough to bend. Costar are not easy
If the Phantom PCB doesn't support PCB stabs, then what do those using acrylic cases with acrylic plates on the Phantom PCB use?
moz, if you're building off a Phantom PCB then you cannot use pcb stabs, must use plate mount, either cherry or costar. Costar can be found cheaply on wasd. Plate mount cherry can be found on mouser I think or people sell them as parts from old boards from time to time, usually for about $5 per set, but you generally have to bend your own space bar wire. Cherry wires are easy enough to bend. Costar are not easy
If the Phantom PCB doesn't support PCB stabs, then what do those using acrylic cases with acrylic plates on the Phantom PCB use?
Most likely Costar stabs.
moz, if you're building off a Phantom PCB then you cannot use pcb stabs, must use plate mount, either cherry or costar. Costar can be found cheaply on wasd. Plate mount cherry can be found on mouser I think or people sell them as parts from old boards from time to time, usually for about $5 per set, but you generally have to bend your own space bar wire. Cherry wires are easy enough to bend. Costar are not easy
If the Phantom PCB doesn't support PCB stabs, then what do those using acrylic cases with acrylic plates on the Phantom PCB use?
Most likely Costar stabs.
How thick do the costar stabs allow for plate to be?
Which TKL case has an acrylic plate? I was under the impression that all the TKL sized acrylic cases only allow you to drop in your own metal plate.
Also the one by letsiter, and the one feng sold, I might be wrong though.
I am like 99% sure those did not have acrylic plates. I thought they were designed so that you could take a Filco TKL (or QFR or Phantom PCB+plate) and just drop the whole plate and PCB into a new case without having to desolder.
I've heard that the plates need to be rather thin in order for the stabs to fit, and that thickness needed in the form of acrylic going to be too fragile.
I've heard that the plates need to be rather thin in order for the stabs to fit, and that thickness needed in the form of acrylic going to be too fragile.
Yes, 3mm is bear minimum in my opinion when using acrylic plates, I would suggest 5mm though.
It seems people tend to agree that SS is a better option overall, and I am definitely interested in having the weight (I like heavy things in general) but I'm so very interested in having a colored plate that I'm willing to give up the reliability and weight of SS. If we can find an inexpensive and reliable place for powdercoating, I would happily rather go that way, but most are saying that SS plates are already pretty available on the market, if you take the time and look, but Aluminum is almost non-existent.
I don't care which way we go, and it's not even my GB anymore, but if we can get SS plates powdercoated without spending say, 15 bucks more than it's anodized aluminum brother, I'd happily go that route.
It seems people tend to agree that SS is a better option overall, and I am definitely interested in having the weight (I like heavy things in general) but I'm so very interested in having a colored plate that I'm willing to give up the reliability and weight of SS. If we can find an inexpensive and reliable place for powdercoating, I would happily rather go that way, but most are saying that SS plates are already pretty available on the market, if you take the time and look, but Aluminum is almost non-existent.
I don't care which way we go, and it's not even my GB anymore, but if we can get SS plates powdercoated without spending say, 15 bucks more than it's anodized aluminum brother, I'd happily go that route.
You would have to powder coat before cutting otherwise the powder coat will make the switch cutouts smaller than they need to be and you won't be able to fit your switch in the plate. The only problem with powder coating before is, the sheet of steel is 4' x 8' and not exactly light in weight as you can imagine. So powder coating is kinda out in terms of options. Painting might work
It seems people tend to agree that SS is a better option overall, and I am definitely interested in having the weight (I like heavy things in general) but I'm so very interested in having a colored plate that I'm willing to give up the reliability and weight of SS. If we can find an inexpensive and reliable place for powdercoating, I would happily rather go that way, but most are saying that SS plates are already pretty available on the market, if you take the time and look, but Aluminum is almost non-existent.
I don't care which way we go, and it's not even my GB anymore, but if we can get SS plates powdercoated without spending say, 15 bucks more than it's anodized aluminum brother, I'd happily go that route.
You would have to powder coat before cutting otherwise the powder coat will make the switch cutouts smaller than they need to be and you won't be able to fit your switch in the plate. The only problem with powder coating before is, the sheet of steel is 4' x 8' and not exactly light in weight as you can imagine. So powder coating is kinda out in terms of options. Painting might work
I almost always paint my stainless steel plates. I think it looks nice. :)
Well, it sounds like he would be getting them raw from his machinist, and be looking into color (either anodizing or powder coating) from there. Sending it off to another person for the service.
So if anyone wanted color, and was willing to pay the extra cost, it shouldn't count against MOQ for people wanting raw SS. Also, you'd get the plate significantly earlier, not having to wait for powder coating or anodizing services.
Honestly, I'm fine with anything, and assuming powder coating isn't an absurd price, would pay for anyof them. If you guys want to do another SS run, I'll buy it.
I'd be interested in both the plate as well as the PCB.
I'd be interested in both the plate as well as the PCB.
PCB is for sale at MechanicalKeyboards
I'd be interested in both the plate as well as the PCB.
PCB is for sale at MechanicalKeyboards
Oh, thank you, I didn't notice that. What about the plate, is there any place that sells TKL plates?
Well, it sounds like he would be getting them raw from his machinist, and be looking into color (either anodizing or powder coating) from there. Sending it off to another person for the service.
So if anyone wanted color, and was willing to pay the extra cost, it shouldn't count against MOQ for people wanting raw SS. Also, you'd get the plate significantly earlier, not having to wait for powder coating or anodizing services.
Honestly, I'm fine with anything, and assuming powder coating isn't an absurd price, would pay for anyof them. If you guys want to do another SS run, I'll buy it.
Well, it sounds like he would be getting them raw from his machinist, and be looking into color (either anodizing or powder coating) from there. Sending it off to another person for the service.
So if anyone wanted color, and was willing to pay the extra cost, it shouldn't count against MOQ for people wanting raw SS. Also, you'd get the plate significantly earlier, not having to wait for powder coating or anodizing services.
Honestly, I'm fine with anything, and assuming powder coating isn't an absurd price, would pay for anyof them. If you guys want to do another SS run, I'll buy it.
You can't anodize SS and powder coating is a bad option since it's going to mess up the tolerance of the switch cutouts
Well, it sounds like he would be getting them raw from his machinist, and be looking into color (either anodizing or powder coating) from there. Sending it off to another person for the service.
So if anyone wanted color, and was willing to pay the extra cost, it shouldn't count against MOQ for people wanting raw SS. Also, you'd get the plate significantly earlier, not having to wait for powder coating or anodizing services.
Honestly, I'm fine with anything, and assuming powder coating isn't an absurd price, would pay for anyof them. If you guys want to do another SS run, I'll buy it.
You can't anodize SS and powder coating is a bad option since it's going to mess up the tolerance of the switch cutouts
I was under the impression that powder coating gave an even and predictable thickness.
If it's predictable, then can we not account for it in the size of the cutouts?
Also, I wasn't implying that we should anodize SS. I am aware of the limitations on that side.
It's really pretty easy to paint a steel plate. Just prep the surface (sanding), apply several thin coats of paint, and let dry. :)
It's really pretty easy to paint a steel plate. Just prep the surface (sanding), apply several thin coats of paint, and let dry. :)
Can't get Aerosols through customs. Painting my own plate isn't much of an option for me here in Korea.
It's really pretty easy to paint a steel plate. Just prep the surface (sanding), apply several thin coats of paint, and let dry. :)
Can't get Aerosols through customs. Painting my own plate isn't much of an option for me here in Korea.
They don't sell spray paint in Korea? What kind of sick, twisted country is that?? :P
It's really pretty easy to paint a steel plate. Just prep the surface (sanding), apply several thin coats of paint, and let dry. :)
Can't get Aerosols through customs. Painting my own plate isn't much of an option for me here in Korea.
They don't sell spray paint in Korea? What kind of sick, twisted country is that?? :P
It's not that they don't sell it. They probably do, but I don't speak Hongul, or read the language (which prevents me from really using the train), I am not authorized a car (and couldn't read the street signs if I were), and I don't have any friends, or know anybody in the area that could help me out. And even if I have a viable way to travel, I have no idea where to go to get high quality spray paint.
For all intents and purposed, I'm living on an island of a military post, with a tiny post exchange and no good options for spray paint.
Surely someone here could talk to someone in korea to get you hooked up with some spray paint!!
Surely someone here could talk to someone in korea to get you hooked up with some spray paint!!
And then how do I link up with them? Unless they're willing to drive or take a train and commute to the front gate, I have no way to get it from them. And even then they can't mail it to me, because the way APO works, it physically travels to California to be taken the rest of the way to Korea, even if the country of origin if from korea.
At this point I'm either spending more, or asking someone to spend more, in getting a plate to me than it would cost to get a board powder coated. The logistics ****ing suck, and it's not enough that I'm half of the world away from my wife and daughter, but I'm ****ing trapped here, too. Things like realizing that I can't even buy a can of spray paint without jumping through hoops and waiting days or weeks to figure out logistics just solidify in my mind the fact that I can't do this anymore. I can't live this life any more. I'm ****ing done with the Army. I just want to go home to my family, where I live 3 minutes from home depot.
And the electronics and computer shops off post don't even have mechanical keyboards! There's like three outside of post here, and they all carry cheap logitech knock-offs and ****. So what's the point of being in Korea if I can't even get cheap Mech boards?
US - $46.35 shipped
I actually still like the idea of anodized aluminum. I would definitely be in for a couple of those.
I like anodized as well but I hope we would have options for more colors. I saw an LZ plate in cyan-ish an I though it looked really good.
How much was it per rack? I thought it was $30 per rack, and if that's the case, shipping is the most expensive part of getting these anodized. If we get 30 cyans, awesome, but if we only get 5, that's a difference of each person paying 1 dollar, and each person paying 6 dollars. I'd still put up 6 bucks to get my ano.
In fact! I will go as far as to say, if it is 30 dollars, I will buy ano for the rack. I will pay 30 dollars to get MY board ano, and anyone else that wants to jump on my rack with me gets a free Cyan ano on their Aluminum board.
Bam, MOQ met. Let's do this.
How much was it per rack? I thought it was $30 per rack, and if that's the case, shipping is the most expensive part of getting these anodized. If we get 30 cyans, awesome, but if we only get 5, that's a difference of each person paying 1 dollar, and each person paying 6 dollars. I'd still put up 6 bucks to get my ano.
In fact! I will go as far as to say, if it is 30 dollars, I will buy ano for the rack. I will pay 30 dollars to get MY board ano, and anyone else that wants to jump on my rack with me gets a free Cyan ano on their Aluminum board.
Bam, MOQ met. Let's do this.
What plate design were you wanting, Calm? Just the Universal TKL, which is ANSI 125 only? If you're willing to pay for the rack, maybe we can be the test case for some plates from The_Beast. I would get a test plate or two in cyan, and pay the shipping to and from the anodizer.
How much was it per rack? I thought it was $30 per rack, and if that's the case, shipping is the most expensive part of getting these anodized. If we get 30 cyans, awesome, but if we only get 5, that's a difference of each person paying 1 dollar, and each person paying 6 dollars. I'd still put up 6 bucks to get my ano.
In fact! I will go as far as to say, if it is 30 dollars, I will buy ano for the rack. I will pay 30 dollars to get MY board ano, and anyone else that wants to jump on my rack with me gets a free Cyan ano on their Aluminum board.
Bam, MOQ met. Let's do this.
What plate design were you wanting, Calm? Just the Universal TKL, which is ANSI 125 only? If you're willing to pay for the rack, maybe we can be the test case for some plates from The_Beast. I would get a test plate or two in cyan, and pay the shipping to and from the anodizer.
Honestly, I'm not picky. I've got a uTKL plate on the way to use with my QFR, and a Phantom plate on the way. So I'm up for a phantom plate, or uTKL ANSI.
Doesn't matter. I'll go with whatever.
How much was it per rack? I thought it was $30 per rack, and if that's the case, shipping is the most expensive part of getting these anodized. If we get 30 cyans, awesome, but if we only get 5, that's a difference of each person paying 1 dollar, and each person paying 6 dollars. I'd still put up 6 bucks to get my ano.
In fact! I will go as far as to say, if it is 30 dollars, I will buy ano for the rack. I will pay 30 dollars to get MY board ano, and anyone else that wants to jump on my rack with me gets a free Cyan ano on their Aluminum board.
Bam, MOQ met. Let's do this.
One guy who's building a phantom linked to this (http://www.vendio.com/stores/E-sports-Gaming-equipments/item/keyboard-accessory/colorful-replace-case-filco-an/lid=31051008). Others seem to just use Filco cases or other TKL cases.How much was it per rack? I thought it was $30 per rack, and if that's the case, shipping is the most expensive part of getting these anodized. If we get 30 cyans, awesome, but if we only get 5, that's a difference of each person paying 1 dollar, and each person paying 6 dollars. I'd still put up 6 bucks to get my ano.
In fact! I will go as far as to say, if it is 30 dollars, I will buy ano for the rack. I will pay 30 dollars to get MY board ano, and anyone else that wants to jump on my rack with me gets a free Cyan ano on their Aluminum board.
Bam, MOQ met. Let's do this.
xD Hell yeah!
BTW, what are you guys using for a Phantom case? Was thinking of picking one up but undecided because of the limited case options for TKL boards :/ Gonna get either that of mod a QFR (cheaper option).
I'm thinking of using WFDs universal plate but modding it to allow ANSI125 and ANSI150 cutouts for the bottom. That should work with a ANSI125, ANSI150 phantom as well as a QFR or Filco board right?
I'm thinking of using WFDs universal plate but modding it to allow ANSI125 and ANSI150 cutouts for the bottom. That should work with a ANSI125, ANSI150 phantom as well as a QFR or Filco board right?
You mean make the switch holes universal on the bottom row like the universal gh60 plate? I like that idea.
I'm thinking of using WFDs universal plate but modding it to allow ANSI125 and ANSI150 cutouts for the bottom. That should work with a ANSI125, ANSI150 phantom as well as a QFR or Filco board right?
You mean make the switch holes universal on the bottom row like the universal gh60 plate? I like that idea.
Damn you guys are all flippy floppy!Show Image(http://25.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_lj9j2mCdtb1qcluifo1_400.gif)
So is this for phantom plates or uTKLs plate? SS or aluminum?
I guess I'll start another thread with a poll to get things cleared up
Also, these are the only colors I have available:
http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=39787.msg821179#msg821179
I'm thinking of using WFDs universal plate but modding it to allow ANSI125 and ANSI150 cutouts for the bottom. That should work with a ANSI125, ANSI150 phantom as well as a QFR or Filco board right?
You mean make the switch holes universal on the bottom row like the universal gh60 plate? I like that idea.
The problem with doing that for the Phantom is that there are no holes in the PCB for mounting stabilizers. That leaves us using plate mount stabilizers only, which eliminates the possibility of using a "Universal" style plate with slots for the switch holes where the stabilizer cutouts would normally be.
I can't decide if I want the 5 above the arrow cluster open like that. Great if I want add in a function layer numpad, or even take out the nav cluster and introduce a base layer numpad AND arrow cluster. IDEAS
but if I get a plate which allows for that option, it'll limit the cases I can get. I don't think it looks good to have a translucent/parent acrylic case top and have the PCB revealed there.
Maybe I need to get two plates until I decide.
Something about it is not calling my name.
I think I'd like it better if the omitted corners were the same size. It looks very off balanced there.
Something about it is not calling my name.
I think I'd like it better if the omitted corners were the same size. It looks very off balanced there.
Well, that plate is a bit different in that it uses a 6-unit spacebar, the same as the HHKB does. But I won't make another one like that. I prefer the symmetry of using the 7-unit space, even if it's not 100% true to the HHKB.
Are these going to have the notches for switch modding?
im wondering if a new universal plate run could have a separate plate for the arrow cluster so that you can have a mini plate for phantom users who want a 92-key and a different mini plate for filco/qfr users. i bet you could also make a universal caps lock and right shift as well.......
edit and when i say mini plate i mean the entire 3 columns of keys on the right side of the filco/phantom/qfr
im wondering if a new universal plate run could have a separate plate for the arrow cluster so that you can have a mini plate for phantom users who want a 92-key and a different mini plate for filco/qfr users. i bet you could also make a universal caps lock and right shift as well.......
edit and when i say mini plate i mean the entire 3 columns of keys on the right side of the filco/phantom/qfr
The problem with splitting off the right 3 columns is that the screw hole to attach the plate to the bottom of the Filco housing is right in the middle of where the cut would be. :(
im wondering if a new universal plate run could have a separate plate for the arrow cluster so that you can have a mini plate for phantom users who want a 92-key and a different mini plate for filco/qfr users. i bet you could also make a universal caps lock and right shift as well.......
edit and when i say mini plate i mean the entire 3 columns of keys on the right side of the filco/phantom/qfr
The problem with splitting off the right 3 columns is that the screw hole to attach the plate to the bottom of the Filco housing is right in the middle of where the cut would be. :(
hmm what about just cutting off the last 3 rows of the 3 columns (arrow cluster) or would that be costly or unstable)
Are these going to have the notches for switch modding?
They are there, it's just subtle. They are a newer design without the little tabs in the middle. You can see if you zoom in that the switch holes aren't just squares.
Okay, we could do a run of any or all of these. I will get the files to The_Beast.So there won't be 1.25 mod?
HHK150
HHK150mod
JDC150Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/giTPSXT.jpg)
Okay, we could do a run of any or all of these. I will get the files to The_Beast.So there won't be 1.25 mod?
HHK150
HHK150mod
JDC150Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/giTPSXT.jpg)
I'm interested in black or grey or white (if there is such an option - would be cool!)
Hmmm I see. At least we can have black or grey :DI'm interested in black or grey or white (if there is such an option - would be cool!)
White anodizing is not an option, in any form of anodization.
Unfortunately, it requires dye to be sort of injected into the aluminum, and the molecules that make up white die are too large to be injected. Can't happen.
Sorry.
Okay, we could do a run of any or all of these. I will get the files to The_Beast.
HHK150
HHK150mod
JDC150