You can find a case here: http://www.vendio.com/stores/E-sports-Gaming-equipments/item/keyboard-accessory/colorful-replace-case-filco-an/lid=31051008The case seems interesting, but I would prefer some more common colours (e.g. black, white, etc.). Will include this case in the first post.
or just wait for group buys on those, they pop up from time to time.
nubbinator is selling stabilizers now: http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=47840.0
Are you searching for a specific type of stabilizer? Or anything you can get your hands on?Thank you very much! I'm looking for 1.25x modifiers and 6.25x spacebar so I guess these should do. About to order some. Although I'd like to have some Cherry ones, since people here say that they are better.
Costar can be found here: http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/index.php/products/keyboard-parts-1.html
Note: if you're planing any sort of layout with a 7x spacebar, you're going to have to search independently for the stabilizer wire, whether you're using Cherry or Costar.
Are you searching for a specific type of stabilizer? Or anything you can get your hands on?Thank you very much! I'm looking for 1.25x modifiers and 6.25x spacebar so I guess these should do. About to order some. Although I'd like to have some Cherry ones, since people here say that they are better.
Costar can be found here: http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/index.php/products/keyboard-parts-1.html
Note: if you're planing any sort of layout with a 7x spacebar, you're going to have to search independently for the stabilizer wire, whether you're using Cherry or Costar.
Imo, Cherry PCB stabs>Costar>Cherry plate stabs.
Since the Phantom doesn't support Cherry PCB mount stabilisers I'd personally go for costar.
Agreed, but I like my PCB Mount Cherry Stabilizers to be clippedMe too, although I prefer them to costar or cherry plate even without clipping.
Agreed, but I like my PCB Mount Cherry Stabilizers to be clippedMe too, although I prefer them to costar or cherry plate even without clipping.
But clipped PCB are the absolute best! So I'm slowly converting all that I canYeah, they're really great. I clipped/lubed my new G80-1501 and it feels so, so much better. Also, 55g blacks are amazing ;D
Imo, Cherry PCB stabs>Costar>Cherry plate stabs.Hmm interesting - didn't know there are Cherry PCB stabs! In that case, I believe I might stick with Costar.
Since the Phantom doesn't support Cherry PCB mount stabilisers I'd personally go for costar.
Found them, thanks! I will try and find them on http://uk.farnell.com/ since I'm already getting some stuff from there.Are you searching for a specific type of stabilizer? Or anything you can get your hands on?Thank you very much! I'm looking for 1.25x modifiers and 6.25x spacebar so I guess these should do. About to order some. Although I'd like to have some Cherry ones, since people here say that they are better.
Costar can be found here: http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/index.php/products/keyboard-parts-1.html
Note: if you're planing any sort of layout with a 7x spacebar, you're going to have to search independently for the stabilizer wire, whether you're using Cherry or Costar.
If you want Cherry plate mount stabilizers, the part to search for is G99-0224 (includes 2x wires) and G99-0744 (8x wire) or G99-0745 (7x wire). Mouser.com has them in the US.
I would be interested in a total cost from all your parts you have found :) excluding the tools neededI will be updating the post with a cost of each item as I'm getting them. Probably it will be high since it is not possible to get them all from one source.
as someone who is also going to be taking this project on, this is a very helpful thread. thanks for putting it together! i asked on irc, but i suppose i'll ask here in case any other newbies, like me, finds this thread: assuming a general lack in soldering experience, how complex is this project? any prep necessary other than getting a steady hand with the iron?Thank you for your kind words. I will be writing here everything I'm doing until this project is finished. To answer your question, I don't have any experience with soldering, but after seeing almost all videos of WhiteFireDragon on youtube and reading the The Living Soldering Thread (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=42824.0), I believe I can solder everything that is necessary for assembling the phantom.
Diodes: 1N4148 thru-holeThank you for this! Did you have a look at the leds I chose? I'm guessing that my diodes should be fine. As regards the LEDs, I'm concerned about their height since I've seen some with different shapes and sizes. You mentioned resistors with 300ohms. I picked 100ohms, after reading the people initially went for 75ohms and they wanted a bit more.
Resistors: 300 Ohm thru-hole
LEDs: 3mm (T1) with 2.5-3.5 Vf. Or 2x3x4 rectangle LEDs.
Diodes: 1N4148 thru-holeThank you for this! Did you have a look at the leds I chose? I'm guessing that my diodes should be fine. As regards the LEDs, I'm concerned about their height since I've seen some with different shapes and sizes. You mentioned resistors with 300ohms. I picked 100ohms, after reading the people initially went for 75ohms and they wanted a bit more.
Resistors: 300 Ohm thru-hole
LEDs: 3mm (T1) with 2.5-3.5 Vf. Or 2x3x4 rectangle LEDs.
With the LEDs I chose (http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?sku=1581176), do you think that this resistor (http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?sku=1652641) will do? or should I go for 300ohms?
Wow... I actually find this hard to believe - I picked the right LEDs and resistors! Thanks for confirming that :)Diodes: 1N4148 thru-holeThank you for this! Did you have a look at the leds I chose? I'm guessing that my diodes should be fine. As regards the LEDs, I'm concerned about their height since I've seen some with different shapes and sizes. You mentioned resistors with 300ohms. I picked 100ohms, after reading the people initially went for 75ohms and they wanted a bit more.
Resistors: 300 Ohm thru-hole
LEDs: 3mm (T1) with 2.5-3.5 Vf. Or 2x3x4 rectangle LEDs.
With the LEDs I chose (http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?sku=1581176), do you think that this resistor (http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?sku=1652641) will do? or should I go for 300ohms?
Oh yeah, I think that combination will work fine. And the LED should be a good fit. If you use VERY thick keycaps, and mount the LEDs in-switch, you might need to sand down the tops a bit for keycap clearance. But otherwise it should be all good.
The LED holders can be made from foam if you'd like to, otherwise I'm not sure you can source them unless you take them from a filco that you can also rob a case from. For a plate, they pop up every now and then in the classifieds, but I doubt another GB will run any time soon. As for stabilizers, My $0.02 would be to go costar. I had plate cherry stabs on my Phantom and the very generous Moose sent me a set of Costar and I've been in love since. Though I still have a clipped cherry stab on my spacebar because there's no such thing as a 7x costar stab that isn't custom made.I just found these: http://uk.farnell.com/multicomp/led-10/led-spacer-round-5mm-2-pin/dp/9555161
The LED holders can be made from foam if you'd like to, otherwise I'm not sure you can source them unless you take them from a filco that you can also rob a case from. For a plate, they pop up every now and then in the classifieds, but I doubt another GB will run any time soon. As for stabilizers, My $0.02 would be to go costar. I had plate cherry stabs on my Phantom and the very generous Moose sent me a set of Costar and I've been in love since. Though I still have a clipped cherry stab on my spacebar because there's no such thing as a 7x costar stab that isn't custom made.I just found these: http://uk.farnell.com/multicomp/led-10/led-spacer-round-5mm-2-pin/dp/9555161
But there are so many of them, with different diameter and length. Does anyone have an idea regarding the measurements? I will probably be using a Filco case. :confused:
I would really appreciate it if someone with a Filco could measure the LED spacers (external diameter and external length) for me. :rolleyes:
Thanks a lot jdcarpe, I really appreciate this! :DThe LED holders can be made from foam if you'd like to, otherwise I'm not sure you can source them unless you take them from a filco that you can also rob a case from. For a plate, they pop up every now and then in the classifieds, but I doubt another GB will run any time soon. As for stabilizers, My $0.02 would be to go costar. I had plate cherry stabs on my Phantom and the very generous Moose sent me a set of Costar and I've been in love since. Though I still have a clipped cherry stab on my spacebar because there's no such thing as a 7x costar stab that isn't custom made.I just found these: http://uk.farnell.com/multicomp/led-10/led-spacer-round-5mm-2-pin/dp/9555161
But there are so many of them, with different diameter and length. Does anyone have an idea regarding the measurements? I will probably be using a Filco case. :confused:
I would really appreciate it if someone with a Filco could measure the LED spacers (external diameter and external length) for me. :rolleyes:
I can do this when I get home from work tonight.
If you are having a hard time finding switches/case/plate/stabilizers, I recommend getting a CM quick fire rapid and scavenging all of those from there. You have to desolder all of the switches, and the case requires very minimal modification (just cut off one of the unused screw posts). You will also have to drill some holes if you don't want to mount your LEDs in switch. I did all of these things for my brother's Phantom that I built for him, and it was probably the best value for sourcing parts.That sounds interesting! One of the main reasons I'm doing this is having a plate on which I can open the switches and try out different combinations. Will a plate like that fit inside the CM QF case?
The_Beast said he'll be doing a Vendor GB for plates in the next two months. Looking to ship after Thanksgiving. I'll let him chime in if he'd like to, just thought I'd mention it.Yes, I've read about it and also expressed my interested on his thread. Looks like we're gonna be getting some plates! Thanks for bringing this up :)
you could also contact tjcaustin and ask if he will make you a cable for that purpose.
If I choose to go for the CM QF case, I'd like to use a detachable cable. In that case, I think I will be using the daughterboard. Correct?
Assuming that is is correct, I will need a male Mini-B USB (from Teensy) to a female 4-pin (to daughterboard).
If I choose to go for the CM QF case, I'd like to use a detachable cable. In that case, I think I will be using the daughterboard. Correct?It's easy to make up a cable for a QFR case. Cut off the mini b end about 4 inches long strip the outer jacket about 2 inches cut the orignal QFR pcb header plug off and solder the wires. The color codes should match your cable. I used some 1/16 heatshrink to (put the tubes on before you solder wires) insulate the connections. Also it helps if you grind off the bump on case bottom where the screw goes for holding the top case on. The Phantom pcb does not have hole for it and it helps make clearance for the mini b connector.
Assuming that is is correct, I will need a male Mini-B USB (from Teensy) to a female 4-pin (to daughterboard).
Also, you could do a male mini usb to female (usb a or mini usb) and either mount it to the case or have it just kinda dangle in the empty space on the underside of the case.I think that sounds better. I think it's best if I mount it to the case, wouldn't like it dangling around.
It's easy to make up a cable for a QFR case. Cut off the mini b end about 4 inches long strip the outer jacket about 2 inches cut the orignal QFR pcb header plug off and solder the wires. The color codes should match your cable. I used some 1/16 heatshrink to (put the tubes on before you solder wires) insulate the connections. Also it helps if you grind off the bump on case bottom where the screw goes for holding the top case on. The Phantom pcb does not have hole for it and it helps make clearance for the mini b connector.Aha! Now I got it! Thank you very much for the instructions and the picture :)
Also, you could do a male mini usb to female (usb a or mini usb) and either mount it to the case or have it just kinda dangle in the empty space on the underside of the case.I think that sounds better. I think it's best if I mount it to the case, wouldn't like it dangling around.It's easy to make up a cable for a QFR case. Cut off the mini b end about 4 inches long strip the outer jacket about 2 inches cut the orignal QFR pcb header plug off and solder the wires. The color codes should match your cable. I used some 1/16 heatshrink to (put the tubes on before you solder wires) insulate the connections. Also it helps if you grind off the bump on case bottom where the screw goes for holding the top case on. The Phantom pcb does not have hole for it and it helps make clearance for the mini b connector.Aha! Now I got it! Thank you very much for the instructions and the picture :)
So what do you think it's best? Get male mini-usb to female mini-usb and mount it to the case (glue it somehow?) or make a cable for the QFR case just like above?
If I choose to go for the CM QF case, I'd like to use a detachable cable. In that case, I think I will be using the daughterboard. Correct?It's easy to make up a cable for a QFR case. Cut off the mini b end about 4 inches long strip the outer jacket about 2 inches cut the orignal QFR pcb header plug off and solder the wires. The color codes should match your cable. I used some 1/16 heatshrink to (put the tubes on before you solder wires) insulate the connections. Also it helps if you grind off the bump on case bottom where the screw goes for holding the top case on. The Phantom pcb does not have hole for it and it helps make clearance for the mini b connector.
Assuming that is is correct, I will need a male Mini-B USB (from Teensy) to a female 4-pin (to daughterboard).Show Image(http://geekhack.org/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=48032.0;attach=34086;image)
a picture says a thousand words. this is exactly what I was trying to describe doing. thanks MJ45!Indeed - got that now! ;) Thanks to both of you!
Looking at the first post, it looks like getting the TKL plate is the only piece thats not done. i know a few people who can cnc things. is there a file somewhere online with the specs for the plate that i could give to them?
Looking at the first post, it looks like getting the TKL plate is the only piece thats not done. i know a few people who can cnc things. is there a file somewhere online with the specs for the plate that i could give to them?
Looking at the first post, it looks like getting the TKL plate is the only piece thats not done. i know a few people who can cnc things. is there a file somewhere online with the specs for the plate that i could give to them?
This thread is gold -> http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=47744