geekhack
geekhack Marketplace => Great Finds => Topic started by: JWK on Tue, 24 September 2013, 13:08:20
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/271225181823
Priced at $19.99 plus shipping. Currently shows 161 available / 18 sold.
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These have blacks right?
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These have blacks right?
Browns, with laser engraved keycaps.
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Might want to mention these are used.
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No always 11900 have blacks, it's the 11800 Compaq branded version with the trackball that have browns.
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No always 11900 have blacks, it's the 11800 Compaq branded version with the trackball that have browns.
These have the only trackpads I have ever used that I really liked.
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Newegg says Gold crosspoint?
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Yeah the synaptics trackpads in these are pretty good, at least on the usb ones which have 800 or 1000dpi. The ps/2 have older version which is too low 400dpi for using on modern high res screen. Well for me at least, 400dpi is excruciating on 1440p. Also interestingly they are gesture aware at least you can tap the pad for click, and do scroll motions at minimum.
They were only ever made in black switch, unless someone made a custom order with Cherry they don't exist in any other switch.
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No always 11900 have blacks, it's the 11800 Compaq branded version with the trackball that have browns.
You're right, of course. I was confusing the two. :)
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No always 11900 have blacks, it's the 11800 Compaq branded version with the trackball that have browns.
WANT
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I use one of these at work a lot. Works just fine but has a 2x shift key in case you wanted to put replacement caps on it. For the price though it is tough to beat with mechanical, even if you only wanted to harvest PCB mount blacks it still seems to be a decent deal at probably $35 shipped.
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Done. Just over $33 shipped to me, couldn't resist. Thanks for the heads up OP
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They've also got this one with browns for $65 shipped, though it looks like they are taking peoples offers also so not sure what you could get it for.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/G80-11900LUMEU-0-Cherry-Model-MX-11900-USB-CYA-White-Keyboard-W-Touchpad-/271225181010
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It's also blacks, like every 11900. I wonder why they think white color version is worth so much more...
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Yeah, I was looking at another thread but misread the product number. The white one pictured looks to be in much better condition, so maybe that's why?
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Black hides the fluid stains. They actually had to clean the white ones.
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nice!
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I ended up getting the white ps2 model the other day or I'd probably get one of these.
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I ordered one. it is waiting for me at home. I will try to report back on it.
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sweet, report away. wondering about the condition of the overall board and track-pad, if the caps have shine doesn't matter much because i can replace (just need 6x spacebar). I may keep this one instead of harvest.
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sweet, report away. wondering about the condition of the overall board and track-pad, if the caps have shine doesn't matter much because i can replace (just need 6x spacebar). I may keep this one instead of harvest.
thinking about keeping too. Warning though, dan said above that it has a 2x shift key so replacing caps might not work
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sweet, report away. wondering about the condition of the overall board and track-pad, if the caps have shine doesn't matter much because i can replace (just need 6x spacebar). I may keep this one instead of harvest.
thinking about keeping too. Warning though, dan said above that it has a 2x shift key so replacing caps might not work
i have a massive Retro DSA collection, 2x shift key wont be a problem, in fact i have a 2x blank if all fails. i just need a 6x spacebar, SP has a DCS 6x brown bar, might just deal with that. lol the key caps will be worth more than the keyboard
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Remember that the space bar has an off-center center stem. So it won't fit a non-cherry branded board without modding
U can just use a 1.75x right shift instead of its 2x. It's close enough on a spare type board like this
Also, if it's just a black 6x space bar u r after tons of people have extra of them after my MY7000 GB
I have a bunch too if u need one
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i figured the stems would require modding, should be fun lol. got to see this damn thing first; kind of excited now, so cheap for what looks to be a decent addition to a mechanical collection.
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OK, so I got my board today. I am typing this message on it in fact. All keys checked out with AquaKeyTest. It's pretty dirty, but that is to be expected. Also, you can tell this particular model was well used. Alphas are pretty shiny along with numpad enter and some of the mods.
The touchpad works, but look at that left click button! that thing is wrecked!
Overall, is it worth $30? Probably not. If I was patient I would have tried the best offer option. Not sure what I'll do with this keyboard. I really wanted it for the switches so I could compare to my vintage blacks. The case is in decent shape except for the worn are around the left click. I might try to rehab it and keep it arround for the novelty. Although the f-row and home cluster set-up is just weird to me.
I am typing on this fresh from the box so I really gotta go wash my hands. I must say though, now that I am at the end of this post, it is very comfortable to type on. I have been typing on nothing but model M and ghetto greens for the past two weeks though, so maybe that's why straight black switches feel better to me than last time I tried them. Although, this is also my first time to type on an MX board w/o a plate, so maybe that's it? It's actually quite pleasant. I have giant beefy hands, and I like the heavy switches, what can I say? Maybe I'll try some of flynn's MY7000 caps on it. I just wish the touchpad wasn't all jacked up, or I would really like this board. This is also my first Cherry made MX board, so I think it's pretty cool for that.
I should add that the board was packaged very nicely and securely. Lots of bubble wrap.
OK so on to tater pics:
(http://i967.photobucket.com/albums/ae156/jbedwell81/20130927_212325_zps3093598a.jpg) (http://i967.photobucket.com/albums/ae156/jbedwell81/96a8359c-d074-474e-a86e-99fbb3c13044_zpsd991efb3.jpg) (http://i967.photobucket.com/albums/ae156/jbedwell81/20130927_211408_zps56277638.jpg) (http://i967.photobucket.com/albums/ae156/jbedwell81/20130927_211458_zps41f8fc5d.jpg) (http://i967.photobucket.com/albums/ae156/jbedwell81/20130927_211445_zps4e7ee4e9.jpg) (http://i967.photobucket.com/albums/ae156/jbedwell81/20130927_211436_zps7c00d361.jpg) (http://i967.photobucket.com/albums/ae156/jbedwell81/20130927_211431_zpsd22487ab.jpg) (http://i967.photobucket.com/albums/ae156/jbedwell81/20130927_211423_zpsfff72b4d.jpg) (http://i967.photobucket.com/albums/ae156/jbedwell81/20130927_211418_zpsa5b68ad4.jpg)
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Oh god that is dirty
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camera flash makes it worse I think. It doesn't look that bad IRL
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Is this worth it to harvest switches?
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Is this worth it to harvest switches?
I suppose it depends on your purpose. For resale? No, probably not. For personal use? Well, it comes out to @$0.33 per switch with what it cost me. And since I need/want PCB mount switches for upcoming gh60s and the leeku PCB, yes it was worth it to me. I also wanted some modern blacks to compare against old/vintage blacks. And you get 8 PCB mount stabilizers to boot...
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Shipping to HK costs $49..never mind..
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damn, if mine arrives in the same condition I'll just harvest the switches, clip the pins and put them on a phantom. can't really keep it if the trackpad arrives like that. but if it doesn't.........
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Very important: is it lasered ABS or POM? (POM should say PBT on the underside, also will be much smoother, etc.)
Also, looks like it features cherry microswitches (I prefer them to omron) but you can replace that leftclick with an omron or similar if it's starting to wear out a little.
damn, if mine arrives in the same condition I'll just harvest the switches, clip the pins and put them on a phantom. can't really keep it if the trackpad arrives like that. but if it doesn't.........
If they keycaps are POM, I'll take them off your hands :) I'll just drive over after my trip.
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All black color lasered keycaps from Cherry are POM. Replacing the mouse button is quite easy, with Cherry, Omron, and some others mouse switches all being pin/electrically compatible. Though as I said before, the pad should allow tapping for clicks as well, so it's not even important if the mouse button is broken really.
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just got my keyboard in
mine is in much better shape than whiskeytango but just as dirty. the trackpad buttons work fine, there isnt an insane amount of shine on the keycaps. the trackpad is a little shiney but the case is scratch free and the logo and legends are not faded at all. maybe i should take pictures?
and it's been awhile since i have typed on blacks, i usually type on reds, is it normal for the switches to feel already well lubricated?--better than reds or dark greys?,
i do not not dislike typing on this keyboard other than it not being an ergodox; i think i like it better than my lubed reds. maybe its because it doesn't have a plate, maybe its the POM key caps, maybe i am just feeling good today.
its dirty and smelly though, ill need to wash my hands after typing this up; ill disassemble it and give it a good scrubbing in and out. huge score, w00t feeling acomplished feeling good about getting an awesome keyboard for $30
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lol first pic
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7427/10059438706_b71528c1a2.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/panicfx/10059438706/)
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that's pretty much what mine looks like under the caps. I haven't actually taken it apart yet for cleaning, haven't had time really. Glad yours is in good shape
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does your one smell like its been in an electrical fire and pooped on? damn i hope i can get the smell off.
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lol first pic
Looks like it was from a closed down rug factory. Time to break out the denture tablets :D
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i got it cleaned, smells ok now and cleaned in a and out, it looks barely used now, though i did accidentally add some scratches on the case. don't have good light for picture but :)
earlier....
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7396/10061282075_5dab077e73.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/panicfx/10061282075/)
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5476/10061549983_7c4f10f8d9.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/panicfx/10061549983/)
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3760/10061942546_072c31167a.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/panicfx/10061942546/)
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Looking good Glod! Any other plans for the board?
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Looking good Glod! Any other plans for the board?
added detachable usb tail when i was closing it up
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5543/10063961194_57efb7da7e.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/panicfx/10063961194/)
really suck picture (no light)
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7447/10064033226_a7025a98e7.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/panicfx/10064033226/)
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Wow it cleaned up very nice! I like the detachable cable mod too, good job :thumb:
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:) $30 and 2-3 hours of cleaning gives you something nice.
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7373/10073279135_685e2ebf89.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/panicfx/10073279135/)
(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2859/10073323136_c99a00ddbf.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/panicfx/10073323136/)
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7338/10073238594_755a6b9761.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/panicfx/10073238594/)
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3710/10073237114_1c6482fd78.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/panicfx/10073237114/)
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5485/10073243224_8a7e22b452.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/panicfx/10073243224/)
this may mean ill be buying some more used keyboards in the future, its really rewarding cleaning these up
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These have 2KRO like most cherry USB kb's right? If so, that's pretty much the only bad part.
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4KRO+mods it looks like to me by holding down alphas and numbers one at a time but is there a tool i can use to confirm?
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4KRO+mods it looks like to me by holding down alphas and numbers one at a time but is there a tool i can use to confirm?
AquaKeyTest
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(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5485/10073243224_8a7e22b452.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/panicfx/10073243224/)
this may mean ill be buying some more used keyboards in the future, its really rewarding cleaning these up
welp.
you convinced me $_$
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4KRO+mods it looks like to me by holding down alphas and numbers one at a time but is there a tool i can use to confirm?
Hmm, I suspect it's only 2KRO. DO the switches ahve diodes or jumpers?
Here's a link to where aqt is uploaded on GH if you want. I just downloaded it on this computer today to test a keyboard.
http://geekhack.org/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=34670.0;attach=2245
also: I might have submitted an offer for three. Worth it for the keycaps!
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jumpers, no diodes
but im able to register a then s then d then f without lifting a key but trying to press a fifth key doesnt work, i have to release one of those 4 keys for a new key to register. asdf shows up as grey during this.
also if i hold q then w then e then i then o then p, 6 keys show up in grey but another key doesn't register unless i release one of those 6.
what does that mean?
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If I remember correctly, the # key rollover number is the lowest number of keys that can be held that will block further key strokes. So for example if there are any two alpha keys you can hold that will block any third key from being typed (ex. hold 'a' and 'b', and any third key is blocked) then you have a 2KRO keyboard. Anybody feel free to correct me if I'm wrong.
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From what I know, 2 main things limits the number of keys you can use simultaneously:
The protocol used to send the data to the computer (including the way the controller works)
The way the matrix is made and wired, mainly affected by the presence or absence of diodes.
If we focus only on the matrix (seems the problem with this keyboard), the absence of diodes will have big consequences for the controller to be able to know which keys are actuated. And depending on the matrix itself and how things are wired, it will decide how many keys can be pressed at the same time, and it will vary depending on the specific keys used.
When diodes are used, it prevent many problems so then it's mostly to the controller and the protocol used to be able to send the right information.
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They are 2KRO I am pretty sure. If you try W and X then K the K won't show up as pressed. The matrix is laid out in such a way that some 'important' groups of keys don't block each other like the keys around wasd. I had another G80 model, I think my 2551 that had this behavior.
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They are 2KRO I am pretty sure. If you try W and X then K the K won't show up as pressed. The matrix is laid out in such a way that some 'important' groups of keys don't block each other like the keys around wasd. I had another G80 model, I think my 2551 that had this behavior.
i can press w and then x and then k and then another key just fine.
if what you are saying is that 2KRO would mean certain combinations on the board cannot exceed 2 key combinations but some combinations can be higher (like JPG explained), i haven't found one that would hurt me.
i mean this isnt my primary board, its no secret im a ergodox fanboy, but i am typing on the cherry right now and i am in love with the POM Caps/Black Switch/Plate-less combo. i want this exact feeling on my ergodox but the litster case is plate mounted grrrrr.
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Shipping is crazy, $50.
Anybody in for a European group buy?
Shipping is only about $100 for 5 keyboards, and $160 for 10... + the seller supports "make offer".
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Shipping is crazy, $50.
Anybody in for a European group buy?
Shipping is only about $100 for 5 keyboards, and $160 for 10... + the seller supports "make offer".
It's crazy but the cheapest USPS first class option is going to be around $30 for shipping ~3lbs, I can't remember what mine weighed but I'm thinking with a decent box it going to be close to 3lbs.
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I mailed a 25-35 lb box to eastern europe for $95 or so. It was via Express mail and arrived in three days. this may have been before the price jump though
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yeah i couldn't help myself from getting another. It is just so cheap.......
so im playing around with the keyboard more. the whole KRO thing. i guess the whole no-diode thing makes sense
sometimes it lets me do 4 or 6 keys in a row giving me the appearance of 4 or 6KRO, but if i keep trying doing odd key combinations, not every try is successful, some tries lead to just 2KRO. trying to do it really fast i notice not everything i hold down registers. but these tests i did represent really unrealistic usage of the keyboard. for typing i notice no problems, i haven't tried games yet.....
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Yeah that is what I mean, some combinations don't work for more than 2 keys. But mostly it isn't a problem on these. Too bad all the 2KRO G80 are not this way... but then it would have been better if they had added the $.50 in material costs for diodes in the first place. These you actually can get by gaming for the most part without blocking problems.
Another thing I noticed from your picture, it seems to have a different PCB revision than any of the 11900 I have had. All the ones I have had have spots for extra switches under esc, pause break and 2 between each of the f key and nav blocks. It also didn't have that controller daughterboard that way.
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All you need to do is use this and it will clean it up good.
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All you need to do is use this and it will clean it up good.
I feel like that...thing will only work for half a board, considering how dirty they are
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I think it's worth it especially if you are in it just for modding the switches to something more your liking. I've been debating whether to buy the white or black one myself.
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my three arrived yesterday, and I've cleaned the cases already and will start to clean the pcb's.
oddly, they have two slightly different labels, as well as different controllers and trackpads. I'm sorting them by date (Serial number) as well as the trackpad date of manufacture.
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So do these have regular or vintage blacks? Also does the trackpad work well? And how much room is inside of the case? I'm thinking of putting a raspberry pi in this.
Also has anyone seen the board similar to this but with clears, browns, or blues?
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These would not be vintage blacks, but they are still pretty smooth from being broken in.
You wont be able to fit a pi in there, the big space is occupied by a controller, see my earlier picture in this thread http://www.flickr.com/photos/panicfx/10061549983/
the trackpad works very well, no scroll wheel though.
I know there is a compaq branded version of this with a trackball that has brown switches. i think its only ps2 though. Deskthority has a huge G80 master list on their wiki explaining each version and what switches are in them. (plus we have resident cherry board experts like ivan)
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Welp, just dropped for three of these... needed to make the international shipping worth it...
The action for these (including the white version) is ending in 2 hours or so as of posting this. I do get the feeling, however, that the guy will be re-auctioning these.
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Nice find!, going to order a few.
Thanks
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I got three, two have synaptics trackpads, the other is cirque (alps). I also have two different controller revisions. all are very dirty and fun to clean up.
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Just got mine in the mail. Gave the outside a good cleaning to test typing on it and then I'll clean the insides later. This is my first MX board. I've been typing on an IBM model M, and this feels so different that I'm making a lot of typing errors. It feels so light though, which is funny to me given how everyone describes blacks as being stiff.
These do come pretty dirty. I wrote the seller asking whether the boards would be clean and the response was yes. In reality not so much. Still, considering, it's in pretty good shape. Does feel like some of the switches are more broken in than others though which is odd (the arrow keys, for instance, feel much stiffer and sound louder than the alphas - same with the numbers).
Anyone know if you can switch the case/keycaps with the 11800 to get brown switches and whether or not you could get the touchpad hooked up? That might be fun.
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Just got mine in the mail. Gave the outside a good cleaning to test typing on it and then I'll clean the insides later. This is my first MX board. I've been typing on an IBM model M, and this feels so different that I'm making a lot of typing errors. It feels so light though, which is funny to me given how everyone describes blacks as being stiff.
These do come pretty dirty. I wrote the seller asking whether the boards would be clean and the response was yes. In reality not so much. Still, considering, it's in pretty good shape. Does feel like some of the switches are more broken in than others though which is odd (the arrow keys, for instance, feel much stiffer and sound louder than the alphas - same with the numbers).
Anyone know if you can switch the case/keycaps with the 11800 to get brown switches and whether or not you could get the touchpad hooked up? That might be fun.
welcome to geekhack!
Model M's are heavy (and awesome) so blacks are pretty light be comparison. Just imagine how reds feel! Too light for some.
I imagine linear switches would introduce a lot of errors in your typing at first. I had the same problem when I first tried cherry mx, and I had browns. I'd give it a few days and you should settle in.
Switching the switches over to browns is very easy on a pcb mounted keyboard like this. You can use a screwdriver or switch opening tool and just change the springs and stems.
You might want to check the switches that feel different, my three all felt the same, but there could be contamination inside the switch: these are dirty and very heavily used.
Hope this helps!
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Thanks for the welcome!
I think that the keys feel/sound different because there's more grime underneath the alphas. I'm going to pop all the caps off this evening and give it a good cleaning. I'll report back when I'm done with that. All of the keys feel relatively smooth, so I don't think that there's something inside the switches.
I had heard that blacks start to feel smoother over time (wear in of springs?) Do the switches pretty much stay the same regardless?
I haven't spent too long typing on the board yet, but I don't think that it will be too hard to make the switch from the model M (which was really too heavy for me). Still, I'm just trying this out right now and I think that I would like some feedback. Looking forward to trying clears/blues/browns.
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Got three of these in the mail yesterday, but I didn't have the chance to really look at them until now. Obviously they're pretty grimy, but not really all that bad...
Out of the three I got, only one has real issues. The bad board's caps lock, L-Shift, R-Shift, L-Ctrl, L-Win, R-Win, L-Alt keys are non-functional. Cosmetically, the left click of the touchpad is worn down to smooth shiny plastic, but is still functional. I'll be opening all of these up for a good deep cleaning, and I'll know then if the bad board can be fixed. Worst case scenario, I've got a bunch of black switches and Cherry key caps!
(Obligatory "all this was typed on the new [functional] keyboard")
[edit]
Turns out one of the good keyboards is missing a foot... sigh. Also, the bad board seems to be one revision behind the two good boards?
Bad board: S/N --- G80-11900LUMEU-2/04
Good Boards: S/N --- G80-11900LUMEU-2/05
[/edit]
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So I'm thinking of buying one, but I don't think I can type on blacks. These are PCB mounted, right? So I can just pop off the switch cover, put in say blues or clears, and then put back the cover, thereby changing the board to a different switch but then having a bunch of black stems in the not original casing.
Also anyone in the USA want to split up a purchase? The cheapest shipping is priority mail, so if someone bundles up and sends the other board via first class, it would *hopefully* be cheaper
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So I'm thinking of buying one, but I don't think I can type on blacks. These are PCB mounted, right? So I can just pop off the switch cover, put in say blues or clears, and then put back the cover, thereby changing the board to a different switch but then having a bunch of black stems in the not original casing.
If you're going to replace the internals of the switches (eg remove spring and stem and replace with blue spring + stem) I would assume you would be left with a bunch of black stems/springs, and a bunch of empty switch housings from where you pulled the blue stems/springs out of. So effectively you could just swap the internals of the switches in the keyboard with your new switches, and you'd be left with the board having the switch that you want, and a bunch of left-over (semi-frankenstein) black switches.
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So I'm thinking of buying one, but I don't think I can type on blacks. These are PCB mounted, right? So I can just pop off the switch cover, put in say blues or clears, and then put back the cover, thereby changing the board to a different switch but then having a bunch of black stems in the not original casing.
If you're going to replace the internals of the switches (eg remove spring and stem and replace with blue spring + stem) I would assume you would be left with a bunch of black stems/springs, and a bunch of empty switch housings from where you pulled the blue stems/springs out of. So effectively you could just swap the internals of the switches in the keyboard with your new switches, and you'd be left with the board having the switch that you want, and a bunch of left-over (semi-frankenstein) black switches.
But I can still use these frankenstein blacks on other boards too, right? Just want to make sure before I spend so much on shipping and whatnot
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The easiest way would probably be to just buy lighter springs to make them into reds.
Basically: if you were to buy switches and swap stems / springs, you could use the switches on other keyboards. I have done exactly this on a number of occasions.
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So I'm thinking of buying one, but I don't think I can type on blacks. These are PCB mounted, right? So I can just pop off the switch cover, put in say blues or clears, and then put back the cover, thereby changing the board to a different switch but then having a bunch of black stems in the not original casing.
If you're going to replace the internals of the switches (eg remove spring and stem and replace with blue spring + stem) I would assume you would be left with a bunch of black stems/springs, and a bunch of empty switch housings from where you pulled the blue stems/springs out of. So effectively you could just swap the internals of the switches in the keyboard with your new switches, and you'd be left with the board having the switch that you want, and a bunch of left-over (semi-frankenstein) black switches.
But I can still use these frankenstein blacks on other boards too, right? Just want to make sure before I spend so much on shipping and whatnot
Yes these are PCB mounted and it's easy to open and removed them. The one I got was very dirty but everything worked after a good cleaning.
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I have another question.
Does the trackpad work, and how good is it?
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I can't answer for purchases from this particular seller, since I didn't buy from him, but I have a similar 8--11900 and can assure you that the touchpad is genuinely of high quality. Too bad I found the format not something I could get used to.
I have another question.
Does the trackpad work, and how good is it?
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I have another question.
Does the trackpad work, and how good is it?
My G80-11900 has the best touchpad I have ever used, anywhere, period.
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I work on computers, mostly laptops, and have serviced hundreds of trackpads.
These are decent. Either cirque (alps) or synaptics, the CPI is too low for use on a large monitor, but they are otherwise great and track well.
Keep in mind on the heavily used ones, the plastic protector on the trackpad might be smooth.
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These appear to be 20% off for the next four days. (white version too)
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These appear to be 20% off for the next four days. (white version too)
Agh, this or a model f
Also is it possible to attach a teensy to get NKRO?
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These appear to be 20% off for the next four days. (white version too)
Agh, this or a model f
Also is it possible to attach a teensy to get NKRO?
In order to achieve NKRO with soarer's code, you have to have a PS2 (or XT, AT, etc.) protocol keyboard that has a matrix that supports NKRO (basically, it has to be capacitive or have diodes)
These keyboards have jumpers and 2KRO. You would need to replace the jumpers with diodes and then make a custom controller for this to be NKRO or 6KRO. They are also USB, so you can't use soarer's converter code and a teensy with them at all.
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These appear to be 20% off for the next four days. (white version too)
Agh, this or a model f
Also is it possible to attach a teensy to get NKRO?
In order to achieve NKRO with soarer's code, you have to have a PS2 (or XT, AT, etc.) protocol keyboard that has a matrix that supports NKRO (basically, it has to be capacitive or have diodes)
These keyboards have jumpers and 2KRO. You would need to replace the jumpers with diodes and then make a custom controller for this to be NKRO or 6KRO. They are also USB, so you can't use soarer's converter code and a teensy with them at all.
Oh. Thanks anyways.
I haven't used a 2kro board before, how restricting are they for typing at around 90 WPM?
Also for gaming where I would press space, w, and one or two more keys?
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I checked a couple things when I got mine in, mostly just making sure they all worked. But here are my observations.
These are a no-go for FPS/RTS games. Probably also a no-go for MOBAs. It gets a bit restrictive with things like hitting wasd, and other gamer-type key combinations.
For regular typing, I didn't notice any issues. I wasn't up to full speed or anything on them just yet, but I do type pretty quick (max out around 106 WPM on a good day) and I didn't have any issues.
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I haven't used a 2kro board before, how restricting are they for typing at around 90 WPM?
Also for gaming where I would press space, w, and one or two more keys?
With a very uncommon exceptions, all rubber dome boards are 2KRO. You have used one before, I am sure.
Key rollover doesn't affect typing much at all.
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2KRO usually doesn't include modifiers keys too.
They count only Alpha and Numeric keys.
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Cool deal. Might want to get one, not now though no money TT
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I talked to the people selling the boards and they hinted at a mass buy discount.
So we could try to get them to give us a discount but ship them out to every person because these boards are pretty heavy.