Also very interested in round four. Any notion of when this might happen? How much time passed between the other rounds?
The OP says shipping is "fee to worldwide". You mean "free to worldwide", right? As in, shipping costs are included in the $77?
These are ABS. Signature Plastics doesn't do PBT doubleshots at all, from what I've read in other threads.
Anyone have an idea of how well the red keys will match the red ESC from elitekeyboards?
Any interest in selling your other set? :D
Also, I'm new around here, can someone explain the whole moogle thing to me?
An 'eject' key like the one pictured below would be pretty cool as a ESC replacement.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/VIUa6.jpg)
Also,
Someone needs to seriously make a Skeletor keycap.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/IHOEJ.jpg)
Hey All,
just wondering where and what i can buy for keycaps for my kbt pure. what types of keycaps are compatible with the kbt pure? and where can i buy backlit-compatible keycaps? thanks
Don't forget, when it comes to "Red Alert" there are about 3 different sets that can fall under that heading.
First, the original, Korean group buy set, AKA Rebel Red Alert. These had symbol-only modifiers, and several expansion kits. There was a contrasting white-on-red number row done up in SP's Isotherm font legends. And red-on-beige modifiers, etc.
Second, Ragnorock's Red Alert 2.0 group buy set.
And most recently, tjcaustin's Klaxon group buy. Included the option for white-on-red alphas.
Red Alert is the original White on Red color scheme. Rebel Red Alert is the second round. I think Klaxon and Klaxon 2.0 are rounds 3 and 4.
Ragnarock isn't the same color scheme or buy, that should be split up from Red Alert.
Round 3 and Round 4 are Dolch replica Round 3 and Round 4 with extras. I think there's different color schemes available in them. Round 3 had orange for example.
For things like Dolch GMK and Dolch DSA, I'd like input on how people would like to see it. We can separate the OP by company or just put in two profiles.
And yes, I think modifiers are color schemes. But I'd like to focus on full sets first. CMYK and RGB can come later.
Also CS = Color Scheme. Took me a second to figure that out. If we're going to use new acronyms, please define them.This thread will have too many of them as it is.
I will update the hit list once we define some things such as the IMSTO Buys and what we want to do with a modifier set. We being the community here.
Welcome aboard, you have an excellent avatar. ;D
Haha thank you. Starcrafts is so good.
I posted this in Boilermaker's thread so I hope this isn't bm but I ordered a cable from you on techkeys last week. Can I still enter in this contest or did I order too soon?
Can someone tell me where I can go in the settings to change the colors of the forum? I was a link in the top 'news' feed one day but didn't click it.....
Guys is it normal for some keys to have letters than are 'off' take these functions keys as an example, the bottom of the F is partially covered on some of them....
tl;d looking at F6 then the others they look weird
Also are there supposed to be holes in the tops of the keys? You can see the backlight coming through.
finally hit triple digits ;D
hello everyone!
a couple of weeks ago i decided to get back to the world of mechanical keyboards after using rubber domes for the last 15 years. i bought a razer blackwidow with cherry blue switches, the cheapest available choice on the local market.
it didn't seem perfect: i used to bottom out almost all the time, i wasn't satisfied by the feeling, i've been making a lot of mistakes when trying to not bottom out, i really disliked the clicky sound (just like my colleagues). so i decided to check out some other quieter switch to not annoy me and people around. the switch choice was quite obvious: cherry mx brown, as i use keyboard solely for typing and don't want to go linear.
i ordered a cherry m80-3000 lqcrb, which meant to have browns, but when it arrived, i typed a little and was quite confused by very strong key resistance. hitting the keys was MUCH harder than on mx blues (and i remember that mx browns should have weaker springs) and even slightly tiresome. removing a keycap made me a bit shocked: this keyboard had mx clears! almost unbelievable: a little while ago i was going to check them out (based on internet reviews), but because of very little availability of mx clear keyboards, i nearly forgot about them. and now what a chance!
these switches seem to be better fit for me. they are almost completely silent: most of noise this keyboard makes is from keys jumping back to initial position. springs seem to be very tight: i almost never bottom out. i can't say if i feel the tactile point: i feel like keys "spring back" my fingers after pushing them to a certain distance. i feel like my fingers are "floating" through the keys. the only downside to all this is that fingers get a bit tired after printing for a while.
i have a chance to return this keyboard telling the seller it has wrong switches, and then acquire a cherry mx brown keyboard, but i'm not quite sure it's a good idea. so now come my questions: how browns compare to clears? are they really much lighter? how is noise level different (if it is)? is it better for me to switch to lighter browns now, considering i get a little tired on clears, or it's a bad decision and i should wait for my fingers to adapt?
Yeah, I'd personally rather let someone have it that'll use it, so I'll hold off for now too and continue the quest for my first CC :)
Cant post here. Never been a noob. Always an OG.
You should get the one WhiteFireDragon is offering. That is a great price for a Leopold TKL white "Otaku" board. I would buy it, but I still need letters on my keys.
Sorry if this has been addressed before, but I searched, and I couldn't find it in the wiki, either.
Is it possible to replace all the MY switches on a Cherry Corp board with MX switches from another donor board? Just desolder the MY switches and solder in the MX switches? I ordered a Cherry Corp G81-1822HQMUS from eBay, and I have a Wyse board with Cherry MX Black switches as the donor. I also have a Compaq MX-11800 board with a non-working trackball from which I could harvest MX Brown switches (or the springs, to make ghetto reds). Any thoughts?
Quote from: tp4tissue;567851a few of those modifier keys don't fit right??
What you will need is called a moogle kit. quarzac has a group buy going right now for Wyse moogle kits, but it seems to have stalled. Maybe you can still get an order in. Hopefully he will get this going again soon.
http://geekhack.org/showthread.php?27844-Finalizing-Orders-WYSE-Moogle-Kits!&highlight=wyse (http://[URL="http://geekhack.org/showthread.php?27844-Finalizing-Orders-WYSE-Moogle-Kits!&highlight=wyse)"]http://geekhack.org/showthread.php?27844-Finalizing-Orders-WYSE-Moogle-Kits!&highlight=wyse (http://geekhack.org/showthread.php?27844-Finalizing-Orders-WYSE-Moogle-Kits!&highlight=wyse)
Quote from: aggiejy;383185Assuming US, yep! Let me know if that's what you want and I'll update your record. (Or I'll update it after you pay, either way.)Yeah im in California and yes, i want priority. Ill pay when I get home from work. Hopefully these do fit my poker if not theyll go in my Leo and filco.
Really? I mean it's a full keyboard with a black anodized aluminum casing. A custom casing like that would cost you $325 from Feng (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=34606.0) and that's not even a full keyboard.Show Image(http://www.pcper.com/files/imagecache/article_max_width/news/2013-01-07/02-K95_angle.png)
I mean I understand, its not exactly the most mod-friendly keyboard around, but the more I look at it the more I appreciate its design. The only thing really holding me back is how much desk space this thing is going to use up. That, and I haven't gotten a chance to try out any MX reds yet.
EDIT: I also kind of wish the USB cord was on the far-left side instead of centered. Centered cords on a keyboard just don't look right to me.
Hello Everyone!
I currently don't own a mech, but I am buying a full size white backlit mech in around 2 weeks. My wasd sampler is coming tomorrow, and I can't wait to pick a switch for my typing and some gaming needs.
Can't wait for the fun! :p
Yeah I'm trying to learn as much as I can and not give in and spend $100+ on a clack lol
Yeah I'm trying to learn as much as I can and not give in and spend $100+ on a clack lol
^-^
Yeah I'm trying to learn as much as I can and not give in and spend $100+ on a clack lol
^-^
oh my god
this.
Yeah I'm trying to learn as much as I can and not give in and spend $100+ on a clack lol
^-^
oh my god
this.
I gave in!!! :-X
Cant post here. Never been a noob. Always an OG.
if you can put up with a few missing keys, I'll send you my old model M for $0 + shipping.I actually also bolt-modded it for free before mailing it out.
Jan 1990, detachable cable, 2-piece keycaps.
You should look into the new rosewill instead.
I'm considering one.
hmmm... I have a good friend in romania who owes me a favour....
Lenovos are pretty much all a pain to repair. I'd highly recommend getting a Fujitsu.post # 27: nerdy off topic:
Their T580 looks good, though I've not tried it personally. You'll also have to order a spare RAM chip, as it comes with a 2 GB stick plus "empty slot"
It has a core i3 or i5
It is also tablet convertible, if you're into that.
10" screen.
http://store.shopfujitsu.com/fpc/Ecommerce/buildseriesbean.do?series=T580 (http://store.shopfujitsu.com/fpc/Ecommerce/buildseriesbean.do?series=T580)
If you want to move up in size, the T731 is really incredible, and an absolute joy to repair, work on, take apart, etc. Everything in laid out nicely, and wonderfully. It also has a "full size" hard drive. It's 12" screen, though.
Make sure your Lenovo is not one of the many with the 1.8" HDD.
Quote from: ripster;417459Welcome to Geekhack!For impressive names, just adapt philosophy concepts to your needs:
According to Ripster's Weight Theorem (http://geekhack.org/showthread.php?22069-Ripster-s-Weight-Theorem-Build-Quality-is-Directly-Correlated-To-Weight-of-Keyboard&p=417409&viewfull=1#post417409) (I NEED a spiffier name) the Ducky is only 150g/1Kg or so less in Build Quality. So clearly visible, but not bad. I have no idea what your price sensitivity is so good luck with the decision!
Popper's falsifiability criterion of meaning -> Ripster's variable weight criterion of Build-Quality
Other impressive names (that may require more adaptaiton) include:
Pessimistic Meta-induciton
Theory of Epistemological Meta-induciton
Etc.
Really, if you want impressive name,s look no further than a classical Philosophy classroom.
Yeah, I imagine a can of compressed air will be even more effective in this application.
Quote from: ripster;419078I remember the good old days when tech support would just tell me to reinstall Windows.Since most people don't do backups, it's good to try and see if it's Windows' at fault or not before you reinstall. The purpose of the linux CD (or USB drive) is to test something else and see if it fixes the problem.
Now I have to install a Linux build too?
In the instance I recommend, you don't actually install linux to your hard drive, you just "borrow" it for a while. This is called a "liveCD". Unless you tell it to, it won't touch the files on your harddrive at all.
Ofcourse not using a USB hub at all when testing, or trying another computer will be useful, too.
I'm told Electrostats make good gaming headphones.
(Attachment Link)Is this the beard of Billy Mays?
EDIT: Oh wait....I need to read the OP ;DCan someone tell me where I can go in the settings to change the colors of the forum? I was a link in the top 'news' feed one day but didn't click it.....Guys is it normal for some keys to have letters than are 'off' take these functions keys as an example, the bottom of the F is partially covered on some of them....
tl;d looking at F6 then the others they look weird
Also are there supposed to be holes in the tops of the keys? You can see the backlight coming through.finally hit triple digits ;D
New to the world of keyboards and I gotta say I'm excited. Bought a Race with black switches and white LEDS so I figured I may as well get myself on these forums. In the words of agent Smith, "It is inevitable". I choose the Red pill.My very first post.
Could Filco keys be sanded down (on the underside) to the same height as regular Cherry keys? Would they be noticably different?
I just bought 2 of each, two browns and two whites. had some problems but apparently he has a mix and I asked and he checked them for me. Oh, yeah, I am new here. Long time reader and lurker.
Edit: Anyone else notice the serialnumber that states US and the pictures which shows a European ISO-Enter?