geekhack
geekhack Marketplace => Great Finds => Topic started by: berserkfan on Sat, 26 October 2013, 07:34:22
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This looks to be in great condition, $22 CONUS right now!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/151151557288?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
This is nice and clean. Missing cork pads? They should cost $2 for a pack of 4. Only $24 CONUS right now!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/370926833114?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
And I notice there is a filthy F122 going for 127.50 currently with 1 more day to go... not placing link because it's not a good deal anymore. Feel sorry for Fohat who had so much trouble selling his F122 two weeks ago.
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This looks to be in great condition, $22 CONUS right now!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/151151557288?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
Even cheaper if you look at the shipping options. He lists priority for $21.80 for me, and UPS ground for a paltry $17.
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These are both XTs so they'll require a Teensy to work with a computer right?
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These are both XTs so they'll require a Teensy to work with a computer right?
That's right. I recommend building an outboard Teensy enclosure with an "AT" style socket which will accommodate these, too, along with just about anything else, if you have the right adapter.
Feel sorry for Fohat who had so much trouble selling his F122 two weeks ago.
Don't worry about me.
I sold it on ebay for a fair price. I may be selling another one soon, with Teensy, unbroken beige case, but I will probably take it straight to ebay.
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These are both XTs so they'll require a Teensy to work with a computer right?
That's right. I recommend building an outboard Teensy enclosure with an "AT" style socket which will accommodate these, too, along with just about anything else, if you have the right adapter.
Thanks, I think I'll do that if I end up getting one of these.
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Are there any replacement caps available for those stepped keycaps? At least for some of them? Those really bug me on Model Fs, aesthetically.
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How hard is it to make these work on regular USB computers?
So temped as I've heard Model F's are even better than Model M's
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Are there any replacement caps available for those stepped keycaps? At least for some of them? Those really bug me on Model Fs, aesthetically.
I don't think unicomp sells any, sadly.
How hard is it to make these work on regular USB computers?
So temped as I've heard Model F's are even better than Model M's
You will need at least a teensy, some wire, and some time (and soarer's freely available code) to make it work.
You can either place the teensy internally, and run a USB cable out, or buy a matching jack for the 180-degree DIN plug on this keyboard, and put the teensy into an enclosure with it. As with many DIY designs, you have a lot of options here. Fortunately, like with many DIY designs, it opens your keyboard up to NKRO over USB, lots of options, remapping, layers, etc.
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Are there any replacement caps available for those stepped keycaps? At least for some of them? Those really bug me on Model Fs, aesthetically.
I don't think unicomp sells any, sadly.
How hard is it to make these work on regular USB computers?
So temped as I've heard Model F's are even better than Model M's
You will need at least a teensy, some wire, and some time (and soarer's freely available code) to make it work.
You can either place the teensy internally, and run a USB cable out, or buy a matching jack for the 180-degree DIN plug on this keyboard, and put the teensy into an enclosure with it. As with many DIY designs, you have a lot of options here. Fortunately, like with many DIY designs, it opens your keyboard up to NKRO over USB, lots of options, remapping, layers, etc.
Oh okay. Yay!
NO ONE ELSE BID PLS
Also how important are the cork pads on the bottom? Will the board move around a lot without them or will it scratch the table without them?
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Oh okay. Yay!
NO ONE ELSE BID PLS
Also how important are the cork pads on the bottom? Will the board move around a lot without them or will it scratch the table without them?
Yeah, a little. I was recently reminded that the bottom plate is painted metal. I would recommend getting rubber bumpers or more cork pads. I have mine, but the adhesive is gone, so they are easy to lose (which is what happened here, I'm sure).
It all depends, but you can get rubber feet or rubber bumpers (or legitimate cork pads) for pretty cheap.
The only bad part about the XT is the odd layout.
do NOT remove the spacebar without reading about it first (it requires disassembly)
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Oh okay. Yay!
NO ONE ELSE BID PLS
Also how important are the cork pads on the bottom? Will the board move around a lot without them or will it scratch the table without them?
Yeah, a little. I was recently reminded that the bottom plate is painted metal. I would recommend getting rubber bumpers or more cork pads. I have mine, but the adhesive is gone, so they are easy to lose (which is what happened here, I'm sure).
It all depends, but you can get rubber feet or rubber bumpers (or legitimate cork pads) for pretty cheap.
The only bad part about the XT is the odd layout.
do NOT remove the spacebar without reading about it first (it requires disassembly)
Awww. I like flipped spacebars
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You can't rotate any of the IBM buckling spring spacebars I've seen.
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Are there any replacement caps available for those stepped keycaps? At least for some of them? Those really bug me on Model Fs, aesthetically.
This bad boy has a lot of weird caps, and some really lame keys get a lot of real estate. You can always drop back to 1x keys, but then you are left with gaps.
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You can't rotate any of the IBM buckling spring spacebars I've seen.
Sure you can. Get out the Dremel, donor stems, epoxy, and build a jig. Add clips for the stabilizers on the downhill side.
You might have to build or mod a new under-carriage, too.
I bet I could do it in less than 4 hours. But I am not going to try.
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Pacifist, never forget that Fohat is a highly experienced modder. What he can easily do, not the average geek can do.
In any case, the god of the free market has established that fohat's time is worth somewhat between a Bangladeshi rickshaw puller's and an Indonesian janitor's. Which means, your time is worth even less. If you messed with the spacebar and couldn't put it back, you won't even be able to sell the F XT for the cost of shipping.
You can't rotate any of the IBM buckling spring spacebars I've seen.
Sure you can. Get out the Dremel, donor stems, epoxy, and build a jig. Add clips for the stabilizers on the downhill side.
You might have to build or mod a new under-carriage, too.
I bet I could do it in less than 4 hours. But I am not going to try.
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Pacifist, never forget that Fohat is a highly experienced modder. What he can easily do, not the average geek can do.
In any case, the god of the free market has established that fohat's time is worth somewhat between a Bangladeshi rickshaw puller's and an Indonesian janitor's. Which means, your time is worth even less. If you messed with the spacebar and couldn't put it back, you won't even be able to sell the F XT for the cost of shipping.
You can't rotate any of the IBM buckling spring spacebars I've seen.
Sure you can. Get out the Dremel, donor stems, epoxy, and build a jig. Add clips for the stabilizers on the downhill side.
You might have to build or mod a new under-carriage, too.
I bet I could do it in less than 4 hours. But I am not going to try.
I'll stick with stock if I win it
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These are really great. I have one that I need to get a teensy for. For some reason they feel much faster than the Model M to me. I think I'm just going to get used to the odd layout and remap as best as possible.
I started the quest to find a good mechanical keyboard to find something that I like as much as the model F, and I can't, so it looks like I'm hooked.
So far I've tried MX blue, brown, and black, a model M, and black alps (an old Dell AT101w). Strangely, between each of those, I actually like the MX blacks behind the F even though the switches are totally different (maybe that's the reason - it feels like its own thing, and I like the smooth resistance of the linear switches).
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I know your feeling epiphany.
I find that when I want to take a break from my F XT, the best contrast is actually Cherry Blacks. I suppose the lack of noise and tactility makes it a genuine contrast, in comparison with Blues which will feel like a cheap and inferior version of buckling springs.
In any case, current prices are $5.50 and $10.50. Hey folks, that's still freaking cheap when you can easily mod it to work. Let's see $20 to $30 on the F XTs, ok?
(BTW, NOT my auction nor anything by my friends. I'm just a Model F liker, ok?)
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Has anyone successfully used a teensy with the 14 pin plug Model F's?
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You can't rotate any of the IBM buckling spring spacebars I've seen.
Sure you can. Get out the Dremel, donor stems, epoxy, and build a jig. Add clips for the stabilizers on the downhill side.
You might have to build or mod a new under-carriage, too.
I bet I could do it in less than 4 hours. But I am not going to try.
On the XT and AT model F's you'd have to clip and rotate the stabilizer clips which is a different problem entirely than doing the same on a terminal 122-key model F. Sure anything is possible, but in this case it's difficult and requires tools, time and equiptment, whereas flipping a spacebar on many cherry keybaords is as simple as pulling it, and rotating it (and in some cases re-inserting the stabilizer inserts)
Has anyone successfully used a teensy with the 14 pin plug Model F's?
I'm not sure what you mean. Depending on the keyboard in question, KBDbabel likely has code for it, but adapting it to work on the teensy would require some effort. In some cases(the "big case" XT layout model F) there is no real controller in the keyboard at all. In either case, soarer's code won't work.
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Just want to make sure before I commit all my money to the Model F with no cork pads
This thing fully works, and if I use a teensy and soarer's free code, I can get it to work on USB computers.
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Dang if the layout didn't bother me this much I would be all over it...good deal though :thumb:
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I can't promise you that whatever you buy works (remember, I'm not the guy putting out the ad and I don't know the sellers) but everything else is true.
On a side note, we have a model F XT going for $7 in 7 hours. At these prices, you risk practically nothing. Several months ago the F XTs were about $50 and F122s were going for $80 but now it seems the F XTs are going cheap and F122s fetching more.
Just want to make sure before I commit all my money to the Model F with no cork pads
This thing fully works, and if I use a teensy and soarer's free code, I can get it to work on USB computers.
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I can't promise you that whatever you buy works (remember, I'm not the guy putting out the ad and I don't know the sellers) but everything else is true.
On a side note, we have a model F XT going for $7 in 7 hours. At these prices, you risk practically nothing. Several months ago the F XTs were about $50 and F122s were going for $80 but now it seems the F XTs are going cheap and F122s fetching more.
Just want to make sure before I commit all my money to the Model F with no cork pads
This thing fully works, and if I use a teensy and soarer's free code, I can get it to work on USB computers.
Good.
The. I'm going to spend a ton trying to get that model f. Nobody try to snipe me please
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Wait a moment - so you're the noob bidding like mad on the F122? I thought it was surprising to see prices leap so much in the first day.
If you really wanted the F122 so badly, you should have contacted Fohat. In fact he may still have an F122 to sell - and his stuff is all 100% set up perfectly, guaranteed clean and working and all that. Even if you win the current ebay F122 without anybody driving the prices up further, you still have a heck lotof work to do.
I can't promise you that whatever you buy works (remember, I'm not the guy putting out the ad and I don't know the sellers) but everything else is true.
On a side note, we have a model F XT going for $7 in 7 hours. At these prices, you risk practically nothing. Several months ago the F XTs were about $50 and F122s were going for $80 but now it seems the F XTs are going cheap and F122s fetching more.
Just want to make sure before I commit all my money to the Model F with no cork pads
This thing fully works, and if I use a teensy and soarer's free code, I can get it to work on USB computers.
Good.
The. I'm going to spend a ton trying to get that model f. Nobody try to snipe me please
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Wait a moment - so you're the noob bidding like mad on the F122? I thought it was surprising to see prices leap so much in the first day.
If you really wanted the F122 so badly, you should have contacted Fohat. In fact he may still have an F122 to sell - and his stuff is all 100% set up perfectly, guaranteed clean and working and all that. Even if you win the current ebay F122 without anybody driving the prices up further, you still have a heck lotof work to do.
I can't promise you that whatever you buy works (remember, I'm not the guy putting out the ad and I don't know the sellers) but everything else is true.
On a side note, we have a model F XT going for $7 in 7 hours. At these prices, you risk practically nothing. Several months ago the F XTs were about $50 and F122s were going for $80 but now it seems the F XTs are going cheap and F122s fetching more.
Just want to make sure before I commit all my money to the Model F with no cork pads
This thing fully works, and if I use a teensy and soarer's free code, I can get it to work on USB computers.
Good.
The. I'm going to spend a ton trying to get that model f. Nobody try to snipe me please
Haven't bidde yet at all. But plan to bid on the model f without cork bottoms
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That looks to be the must cleaner of the two XT. Its the one I'd bid on too if I was bidding.
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That looks to be the must cleaner of the two XT. Its the one I'd bid on too if I was bidding.
How much should I bid that XT up to?
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That looks to be the must cleaner of the two XT. Its the one I'd bid on too if I was bidding.
How much should I bid that XT up to?
The last 2 I sold went in the $35-40 range, clean and tested.
However, they sell all over the map and might get bid up to twice that. Be patient and you will get one under $40 + shipping.
The AT model goes for triple that price because it is much more desirable on many levels.
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That looks to be the must cleaner of the two XT. Its the one I'd bid on too if I was bidding.
How much should I bid that XT up to?
The last 2 I sold went in the $35-40 range, clean and tested.
However, they sell all over the map and might get bid up to twice that. Be patient and you will get one under $40 + shipping.
The AT model goes for triple that price because it is much more desirable on many levels.
This doesn't include a teensy, right? Thanks for the help!
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This doesn't include a teensy, right? Thanks for the help!
It would be rare to find one with a converter (Teensy or Hagstrom) included, and it would sell for much more because the bare Teensy is $20 and requires other equipment + time, and the Hagstrom is $50.
These are relatively simple workarounds, but they do take time and money.
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Agh, I got caught up in some other stuff and totally forgot to bid. Grats to whoever got that first XT for so cheap.
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Agh, I got caught up in some other stuff and totally forgot to bid. Grats to whoever got that first XT for so cheap.
Not me. I went to do something else and when I came back, it ended :(
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Sorry to hear that for you. You probably missed the cheapest ever F XT price for a year. Oh well, there's another auction left!
Agh, I got caught up in some other stuff and totally forgot to bid. Grats to whoever got that first XT for so cheap.
Not me. I went to do something else and when I came back, it ended :(
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Agh, I got caught up in some other stuff and totally forgot to bid. Grats to whoever got that first XT for so cheap.
Same, I had it open in Chrome, got busy and missed it by a minute. damn
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Note to self: When there's an ebay auction, PAY ATTENTION
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Sorry to hear that for you. You probably missed the cheapest ever F XT price for a year. Oh well, there's another auction left!
$38 shipped for an XT is OK but nothing to crow about.
Considering that it will take at least another $25 to get it running, if you don't already have the gear, you will have more in it than you would spend for a decent M. If I had one to sell, I would list it at $35-40 + shipping and feel lucky if I got it.
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I was the guy who got the first one. You kiddin'? I'm happy as a pig in slop. It is like what I started with, so I know the layout, and already have the stuff to get it going. The work to get it going is right in my wheelhouse too.
Also, it seems like lately even the XT's I've seen have been going for more money, even compared to a few months ago. I've seen a few lately go for $90-100. It is kinda crazy.
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I bid on the first one, but after looking at that horrid layout I'm wishing I didn't...
Dem XTs are UUUUGGLY!
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that horrid layout
Unless your fingers were trained by hundreds of hours on one of those, back in the mid-1980s, and muscle memory kicks in, they are all but unusable.
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On this one, there are a few things that I think muscle memory may have been wiped out a bit, namely having the pipe over by the z. I used one for years, but using an ANSI keyboard on Linux for much longer.
The other thing that I'll need to figure out on is F11 and F12. I may map Capslock to a function key, and have Function+F1-F10 behave as F11-F20. Caps and shift I'll have actually function as Capslock.
That said, I wouldn't mind having one modded to be ANSI. I do really like these boards better than the 122s cosmetically, although mainly because the cross style arrows bug me. What I do with this one all depends on how much time I have to spare coming up.
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I bid on the first one, but after looking at that horrid layout I'm wishing I didn't...
Dem XTs are UUUUGGLY!
I'll take it off your hands if you win.
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Congrats to the winning bidders on owning such a crappy layout.
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Wow. Never would've thought that people would be going crazy over an XT Model F like that. Has somebody come up with a way to use them with a conventional PC now?
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Soarer's convertor. Right now, at the leasing office for my apartment, my package is waiting for me. This weekend I'm going to try and get things going for soarer's using the teensy I got from the group buy. I figure I have the Model F now, and may be a while before I can get a custom board going.
Unsure if I want to do internal or external soarer's though. What I've decided that I will be doing with the F is use it for when I am using my work laptop at someplace other than my desk. For instance, yesterday, I was in a conference room session doing some group work, and I didn't want to bring my M because then I'd have to drag along my dock and everything since it is still running PS/2. Having a smaller board, connecting via USB would be a lot better solution I think for when I am doing those group hack sessions at work. The other guys do think it is funny when I set my M on top of my laptop and use it that way, because of how much bigger it is.
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I sold 2 last summer in the $35 range + shipping (one was local pick-up).
Since Soarer's converter and the Teensy came around, it is easy enough to use this old gear via USB if you know how to use your hands at the work bench.
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Unsure if I want to do internal or external soarer's though.
Internal is a lot more convenient, if you can spring for the $20 to dedicate to each keyboard.
An external box is nice to have, and if you buy or build some adapters, you can swap around easily.
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I guess for me the real thing is if I want to also use it with my M at times. If I can make the RUMP fairly soon, I'll do internal on the soarer's for the M. If I can't fit it in my schedule, then I'll be tempted to do external, with a jack for PS/2 as well.
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you can build an XT to PS2 adapter then make a PS2 > soarer > usb converterbox and use the cable to plug either in to it.
Ofcourse you'll have to remember to not plug it into any actual PS2 devices.
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you can build an XT to PS2 adapter then make a PS2 > soarer > usb converterbox and use the cable to plug either in to it.
Ofcourse you'll have to remember to not plug it into any actual PS2 devices.
I did that first, but Soarer (rightfully) suggested that he had used a female AT connector on his. That is better, XT and any old-style AT plug keyboard will plug in directly, and you can make your adapters from there.
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I have a box of y cables, that let you plug in a PS/2 and AT keyboard at once. I picked it up because it was a couple bucks and I got 50. At the time I was fooling around with a few AT wand style barcode scanners I had picked up. I was thinking if I did external, I'd just use one of those cables.