Just some quick thoughts...
You might want to consider cutting up a terminal Model M instead of your 1391401... these seem to be cheaper and readily available on ebay. They are cheaper I guess because they require a converter like Soarer's converter or something using hasu's tmk firmware and also they don't have the lock LEDs that people are used to, and they have a lot of non-standard key caps on the part you'll be cutting off. That said its good for what you are doing since you'll probably be using some sort of converter anyhow and you'll be cutting off the part with the non-standard caps, and you have no use for the lock LEDs anyhow
Also I like using a flush cutter instead of chisel for removing the rivets:
http://www.amazon.com/Xuron-Maxi-Shear-Flush-Cutter-Pliers/dp/B005GR6JRK/ref=pd_sbs_indust_10
Not that a chisel won't work but I just think this is faster and simpler
I'm in the middle of basically the same project; I have my bolt mod finished but haven't done any cutting, I'm still waiting on some stuff in the mail to complete my converter. The thing I like about this project is that its a little bit more difficult than some other mods but its not like the deity level stuff that wcass and mkawa are up to with their custom membranes and SSK revival projects.
Can't wait to see the results of your mod!
Fohats, I've been linking people to the to The GH Wiki bolt mod guide (http://wiki.geekhack.org/index.php?title=Modifications:IBM_Model_M:Nut_and_Bolt_Mod). Some people like ripster's guide (http://imgur.com/a/QroSL).
The OP might be interested in this thread from The_Beast (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=44875.0) as well.
Flush cutter sounds convenient! I will have to check that out.
Also I've been scouring hardware stores today and could not find 2mm x 8mm nuts and bolts. Better dig into local sources.
A chisel blade for your Xacto knife is the fastest and best, if you have a steady hand. Also by far the best at shaving the "mushrooms" flat but it needs to be a fresh sharp blade. I keep my older rougher blade for the original rivet cuts.I was thinking of just sanding down if it mushrooms up. I might just go medieval on the rivets and sand down before drilling. Right now, just contemplating the options.
2mm nuts and bolts are very hard to find. I posted my McMaster-Carr order below. They shipping is reasonable and very fast. Bolts come in 100-packs which is enough for 2 keyboards. The self-tapping screws at the bottom are for the front row, but are not really necessary.
I was thinking of just sanding down if it mushrooms up.
Whatever.
I have done quite a few of these and there is no sandpaper or any other form of abrasive of any kind in my Model M bolt-modding kit.
Shaving with a very sharp chisel blade produces beautiful results and takes less than 1 second per cut. Brute force grinding takes much longer, is far harder to control, and produces an ugly result.
Believe me, I used the chisel and sandpaper route for the first few that I did, and I would never go back to anything that crude again.
After fiddling around with the dremel tool, I went ahead with the cutting job.
Somebody suggested grinding the same material (you have some pieces, he ran an old printer through a planer) into "sawdust" and mixing it with acetone to make a slurry. It will harden back and be the same color.
If you are going to paint, JB Weld epoxy is GREAT for almost anything (second only to duct tape) but it dries dark gray.
Here are some blades:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Acto-0217-17-Light-Weight-Chisel-Blade-5pk-/151151275729?pt=Model_Kit_US&hash=item2331516ed1 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Acto-0217-17-Light-Weight-Chisel-Blade-5pk-/151151275729?pt=Model_Kit_US&hash=item2331516ed1)
The one that rubs on the plate cutting the rivets initially will get trashed, so save a fresh one for the mushroom harvest.
After fiddling around with the dremel tool, I went ahead with the cutting job.
Well, it's a little late now, but what I did when I was making my first mod SSK out of a fullsize M was cut along the existing "seams":Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/OgbWA6h.jpg)
First I just did a straight cut taking off the numberpad. On the main piece I cut vertically down at about the point between scroll lock and pause keys, cut horizontally to the edge, then down at the bottom cut in horizontally under the cursor keys, then down.
On the right piece I notched out the inner area, and got the lengths of the bottom and top tops close to correct.
The two pieces fit together like tab A into slot B, required some shaving to get the lengths correct. I was just a little sloppy letting it set that the top pieces were slightly off. It isn't really noticeable unless the light hits it just right, and the bottom join is much cleaner. I may go back and fix the top at some point.
I took fohat.digs suggestion of using acetone and shavings from the case cutting to make "ABS cememt".
Easter egg: I am sure some of the readers caught it. I removed the stabilizer slot thing from the backspace key to make it 2 keys. Even before the project started, I was wondering if this could be done. When I opened up the backplate, I was pleased to find the matrix actually had a contact point under the stabilizer barrel.
Sorry if I mislead you. I have never done the ABS/acetone thing, I was just passing along a suggestion from someone else. If you can find the right color of filler, even if it is not structural, you can make the repair with reinforced epoxy on the back side and not worry about the color which won't show.
I am following this with interest because I plan to make a ghetto SSK sometime.
Trashing a prototype to learn all the things not to do has been my MO in the past. I have a couple of M-122s laying around that I might try to turn into a "Space-Unsaving-Keyboard" first.
While researching for the filler material for the gap, I have found this: http://www.jbweld.com/product/j-b-plasticweld-putty/
I think I will pick one up later today to try on a sample pieces to review the result. The color might not be too far off from the shell color as well.
While researching for the filler material for the gap, I have found this: http://www.jbweld.com/product/j-b-plasticweld-putty/
I think I will pick one up later today to try on a sample pieces to review the result. The color might not be too far off from the shell color as well.
Looks good for color, but its strength is 350 psi vs 3900 psi for the standard gray, so you might still want to do something else for the actual bond.
I have never used anything but the original. I was tempted by the "quick dry" until I saw that its strength was half that of the slower kind.