I figured out the r4 keys. There are 36 of them - they're the largest keys, correct?Correct. Now just try and match up the other rows.
I'm really confused. Minus modifiers, I only have 3 different size keys. I have the big r4s, and then what i assume is r3 and r2. Can someone tell me how many i should have of each ( r) for a full board? I'm pretty sure he sent me enough keys for a full board, even though i'm only going to be putting them on a tkl.
So biggest to smallest is r4/3/1/2?
I understand that! The problem is figuring out which key is which r! R4 is easy to distinguish but the rest are really hard to figure out which is which. Especially r1 / 2! I can't tell them apart!
I think sometimes the key has the row number engraved on the underside (R1, R2, etc). Then you can refer to this layout to put the keys in the correct place:Show Image(http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/media/keycap_layout.jpg)
Blanks can really be hard to sort out if you don't have another set to compare them to. Good job getting it all figured out. :thumb:
Should you ever take them off, I'd recommend putting each row in a separate zip-lock back to help you keep it straight. That's what I recently did with mine when I swapped out some alphas. This way you don't have to go through that pain and anguish again. :))
And maybe put a small dot underneath the keycaps for row 1, 2 dots for row 2 and so on in case you take them all off at some stage.
And maybe put a small dot underneath the keycaps for row 1, 2 dots for row 2 and so on in case you take them all off at some stage.
Here is a picture of the caps on my Razer.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/yK1WbVC.jpg)
I didn't bother doing the number pad, just because I don't really use it and some of the keys were just too hard to pry off with my hands. I'm pretty sure my Filco will come with a cap puller so in a few days I'll be transferring these caps to the Filco. I just got impatient and wanted to use them :)
And maybe put a small dot underneath the keycaps for row 1, 2 dots for row 2 and so on in case you take them all off at some stage.
Here is a picture of the caps on my Razer.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/yK1WbVC.jpg)
I didn't bother doing the number pad, just because I don't really use it and some of the keys were just too hard to pry off with my hands. I'm pretty sure my Filco will come with a cap puller so in a few days I'll be transferring these caps to the Filco. I just got impatient and wanted to use them :)
Makes a difference to the look and feel, doesn't it! :)
can't believe you did a whole board with just your fingers lol. not even the paperclips?
Took me most of the night but I did it with just fingers. Sad thing is I have nerve issues and an extremely weak right hand. Even more fun.
And maybe put a small dot underneath the keycaps for row 1, 2 dots for row 2 and so on in case you take them all off at some stage.
Here is a picture of the caps on my Razer.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/yK1WbVC.jpg)
I didn't bother doing the number pad, just because I don't really use it and some of the keys were just too hard to pry off with my hands. I'm pretty sure my Filco will come with a cap puller so in a few days I'll be transferring these caps to the Filco. I just got impatient and wanted to use them :)
I honestly didn't think the backlight would shine through at all. I'm honestly not sure if I would have ordered a different board even if I knew that, though. When I ordered my Filco a few days ago I didn't know that the ducky shine 3 had better than standard cherry stabilizers, and the WASD Code is sold out for months. Those are the only two mainstream backlit TKLS that I'd be interested in. I'll get a ducky shine 3 soon enough and put another set of blue caps on it and it'll look just as sweet :). Unfortunately I'll likely be getting rid of the Blackwidow when I get my filco in a few days. Its honestly just not very well made and I'd much rather have that money and put it towards another board (or accessories for my Filco). My real ideal board is something like a korean custom with a black aluminum case (a really nice one) and LEDs. I think some website will be selling thick PBT black caps soon (according to that group buy thread), but even if they don't I'll have a few sets of black blank caps to mix in with my blue ones from the GB. I think adding some black caps to these blue ones ontop of a white backlight would look really sweet. I wish I could get some other color thick PBT, but I honestly haven't seen any.
I honestly didn't think the backlight would shine through at all. I'm honestly not sure if I would have ordered a different board even if I knew that, though. When I ordered my Filco a few days ago I didn't know that the ducky shine 3 had better than standard cherry stabilizers, and the WASD Code is sold out for months. Those are the only two mainstream backlit TKLS that I'd be interested in. I'll get a ducky shine 3 soon enough and put another set of blue caps on it and it'll look just as sweet :). Unfortunately I'll likely be getting rid of the Blackwidow when I get my filco in a few days. Its honestly just not very well made and I'd much rather have that money and put it towards another board (or accessories for my Filco). My real ideal board is something like a korean custom with a black aluminum case (a really nice one) and LEDs. I think some website will be selling thick PBT black caps soon (according to that group buy thread), but even if they don't I'll have a few sets of black blank caps to mix in with my blue ones from the GB. I think adding some black caps to these blue ones ontop of a white backlight would look really sweet. I wish I could get some other color thick PBT, but I honestly haven't seen any.
Interesting.
A lot of people say that the BW is made well enough, but when you compare it to some of the other leading keyboards you realise that it really is not that well made.