They have the PBT keycaps as well.
And it's also the return of the $5000 cold plated CNC case. You know you want one!
they also have a GB for just the blank PBT key caps here (https://www.massdrop.com/buy/ergodox-keycap) eventually to reach $45You can add the keycaps as part of the order process on the ergodox page.
(maybe that's what you meant Dorkvader?)
No assembly this time I guess.Considering that the previous round hasn't shipped yet, I'm unsurprised.
No assembly this time I guess.Considering that the previous round hasn't shipped yet, I'm unsurprised.
Also to note -- no red switches this time.
No assembly this time I guess.Wait, the image and description and title of the MD seems to indicate that it does require assembly. Does it...?
You'd be buying a kit ... loose pile o' parts. Which you get to assemble.No assembly this time I guess.Wait, the image and description and title of the MD seems to indicate that it does require assembly. Does it...?
No assembly this time I guess.Wait, the image and description and title of the MD seems to indicate that it does require assembly. Does it...?
Why are ergodoxes so expensive? :(
Why are ergodoxes so expensive? :(
$200 is one of the cheaper customs for sure.
Why are ergodoxes so expensive? :(
$200 is one of the cheaper customs for sure.
That's just the base kit. When you start adding the things you need for it, it skyrockets
Never mind :(They have the PBT keycaps as well.
And it's also the return of the $5000 cold plated CNC case. You know you want one!Show Image(http://www.cute-factor.com/images/smilies/onion/d33561e9.gif)
Why are ergodoxes so expensive? :(
$200 is one of the cheaper customs for sure.
That's just the base kit. When you start adding the things you need for it, it skyrockets
please elaborate. what else other than what's included in these kits would you need to make a working keyboard?
250$ is not bad for a keyboard like this is not bad. Same price as a topre.Why are ergodoxes so expensive? :(
$200 is one of the cheaper customs for sure.
That's just the base kit. When you start adding the things you need for it, it skyrockets
please elaborate. what else other than what's included in these kits would you need to make a working keyboard?
caps and switches
Why are ergodoxes so expensive? :(
$200 is one of the cheaper customs for sure.
That's just the base kit. When you start adding the things you need for it, it skyrockets
please elaborate. what else other than what's included in these kits would you need to make a working keyboard?
caps and switches
Why are ergodoxes so expensive? :(
$200 is one of the cheaper customs for sure.
That's just the base kit. When you start adding the things you need for it, it skyrockets
please elaborate. what else other than what's included in these kits would you need to make a working keyboard?
caps and switches
It comes with switches. But honestly if you're on Geekhack. you should probably at least have one set of spare keycaps if this is going to be a daily driver.
It comes with switches. But honestly if you're on Geekhack. you should probably at least have one set of spare keycaps if this is going to be a daily driver.
There wouldn't be enough 2x keys, true. I suppose a TKL set could be used, but you'd be using 1x keys where larger keys would be, kind of defeating some of the ergonomic aspect.It comes with switches. But honestly if you're on Geekhack. you should probably at least have one set of spare keycaps if this is going to be a daily driver.
i don't think a normal TKL set will fit on the ergo dox :/
The mechanical assembly shouldn't be too difficult, but I'm sure that we could find someone who knows what he's doing to do the soldering.
It's not too complicated, especially as there's a great guide on the site.
Are you considering buying one?
The mechanical assembly shouldn't be too difficult, but I'm sure that we could find someone who knows what he's doing to do the soldering.
It's not too complicated, especially as there's a great guide on the site.
Are you considering buying one?
Yea! I'm just afraid of the soldering part though - realistically, if I did get one, I wouldn't be able to assemble it until next summer or December at earliest as I don't have time to learn/practice soldering :(
The mechanical assembly shouldn't be too difficult, but I'm sure that we could find someone who knows what he's doing to do the soldering.
It's not too complicated, especially as there's a great guide on the site.
Are you considering buying one?
Yea! I'm just afraid of the soldering part though - realistically, if I did get one, I wouldn't be able to assemble it until next summer or December at earliest as I don't have time to learn/practice soldering :(
I know how to solder decently, but I could have someone I know, who's in his late fifties, to assemble it. There's a video on youtube (here (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x1irVrAl3Ts)) showing assembly, it's not too complicated given that all the spaces are lined out. Would probably take several hours, though.
Still considering? =)
I'm strongly considering canceling my Shine 3 order and getting this instead, it's just so much more expensive, almost $100 more with keycaps.
So I watched the video and read a basic soldering guide online (http://mightyohm.com/files/soldercomic/FullSolderComic_EN.pdf (http://mightyohm.com/files/soldercomic/FullSolderComic_EN.pdf)), and have a few questions. Do you know if the MD has the through-hole diodes or the surface-mount diodes?
Also, he places the solder on a lot of the pads before putting the diodes in. This seems to be more efficient in creating a keyboard, but wouldn't the solder cool pretty fast?
(Haha sorry if you can't answer these - if you can't, where should I post these questions? I don't post much, mostly lurka bunch ;D)
Do you know if the MD has the through-hole diodes or the surface-mount diodes?
Also, he places the solder on a lot of the pads before putting the diodes in. This seems to be more efficient in creating a keyboard, but wouldn't the solder cool pretty fast?
the diodes are clearly throughhole. If it were me, I'd rather die than put solder on the pads before inserting the components.
I dont guess theres anything "wrong" with it. But for me, its extra work for myself constantly flipping the board over and stuff. It's an increased risk of damaging the board, (say the solder partially obscures the hole so when you put the lead through it hits the solder and lifts the pad). It wastes thermal energy from the iron, slowing you down, increasing risk of cold joints.the diodes are clearly throughhole. If it were me, I'd rather die than put solder on the pads before inserting the components.
What's wrong with doing that?
I dont guess theres anything "wrong" with it. But for me, its extra work for myself constantly flipping the board over and stuff. It's an increased risk of damaging the board, (say the solder partially obscures the hole so when you put the lead through it hits the solder and lifts the pad). It wastes thermal energy from the iron, slowing you down, increasing risk of cold joints.the diodes are clearly throughhole. If it were me, I'd rather die than put solder on the pads before inserting the components.
What's wrong with doing that?
I really cant think of a reason why you would do it. If its just a matter of holding the piece in place while its upside down, here a couple of methods I tend to use. http://i.imgur.com/nhoY9ED.jpg
the diodes are clearly throughhole. If it were me, Id rather die than put solder on the pads before inserting the components. A better way is to put all the diodes in, tape over them with masking tape so they dont fall out, flip the board over and solder them all at once. You will probably also want to build a jig out of perfboard so you can bend the legs super fast and easy. something like this (http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FBB/EOD5/HHS9VKUV/FBBEOD5HHS9VKUV.LARGE.jpg)One type of diode that the pcb can accept is through-hole. The other is pad. It's your choice which you want to use.
what's the difference in Blank PBT DSA (option for the ergo dox) and the separately sold PBT DCS here:https://www.massdrop.com/buy/ergodox-keycap?s=keycap (https://www.massdrop.com/buy/ergodox-keycap?s=keycap)
I have some questions:* Classic (https://d3jqoivu6qpygv.cloudfront.net/img_bucket/ergodox/_W3T2166.jpg) is a case that's just big enough to house the keyboard, Full-Hand (https://s3.amazonaws.com/massdropinc/product-images/massdrop-product-ergodox-au3.jpeg) has a built-in wrist-rest.
- case style options; what's classic and what's full hand?
- are the 1.5 caps in the massdrop set R1 to R4 or the same profile? (Buy the massdrop ED set or assemble a set elsewhere)
- what's the difference in Blank PBT DSA (option for the ergo dox) and the separately sold PBT DCS here:https://www.massdrop.com/buy/ergodox-keycap?s=keycap (https://www.massdrop.com/buy/ergodox-keycap?s=keycap)
- anyone have pics of the anodized alu top plate and what color is it anodized in?
- when is the expected shipping date? I read June's order is barely fulfilled.
- If I buy today instead of committing, will I only be charged 199 if it reaches that in 9 days time?
what's the difference in Blank PBT DSA (option for the ergo dox) and the separately sold PBT DCS here:https://www.massdrop.com/buy/ergodox-keycap?s=keycap (https://www.massdrop.com/buy/ergodox-keycap?s=keycap)
I didn't notice that. Good eyes.
DSA profile keys are "spherical", and DCS keys are "cylindrical".
DCS profile is what keys on most keyboards today are like. If you buy a Ducky or a Filco or a Cooler Master, you're going to get DCS keycaps. They're curved horizontally but not vertically... as if a metal cylinder was pressed into the hot plastic of the keycap as it was cooling. Each row also has a different angle, so when you look at the keyboard from the side, there's an apparent curve across the rows.
DSA caps, on the other hand, are more "retro". They're curved both horizontally and vertically, giving each key a little bowl (as if a metal sphere was pressed into the hot plastic of the keycap as it cooled). Also, the keys in different rows are identical (except possibly "F" and "J"), so there's no overall "curve" in profile. But this also makes it easier to set up different keyboard layouts, like Dvorak or Colemak.
Signature Plastics has a page showing the difference (http://keycapsdirect.com/key-caps.php).
Thanks, great explanation! Then the question is, would it be "better" or "worse" to get a DSA set with all caps being the same profile (R3)?
omfg
It was 19 last night.
Woke up, now it's 110. Lowest price unlocked.
Jesus.
Thanks, great explanation! Then the question is, would it be "better" or "worse" to get a DSA set with all caps being the same profile (R3)?
It is generally concluded that spherical caps are for the look, not the feel. I tried using a typewriter with spherical caps, really did not like the feeling. Every key, as he said, feels the same and there's no guide for your fingers, no sculpt. Worse than flat keycaps to me because I had to lift my finger to move it up and down, which I could do by sliding on cylindrical, as there's no curve to the top. If I were to get the Dox, it would certainly be with the DCS caps.
However, if you don't type much or really want to change layout (unnecessary for me, touch typing Dvorak and all), or just really like the look, they're a fine choice.
argh the options are killing me.Here you go!
full hand or classic?
what kind of caps? (go to the GB or find my own caps)
what switch?
to buy or not to buy?
ARGH
EDIT: does this board require the use of stabilizers? any suggestion on caps options other than going with the MD set?
argh the options are killing me.
full hand or classic?
what kind of caps? (go to the GB or find my own caps)
what switch?
to buy or not to buy?
ARGH
EDIT: does this board require the use of stabilizers? any suggestion on caps options other than going with the MD set?
ok classic it is.12 places where you can use 1.5x keys (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=46456.0), yes; four on the pinky edge, two on the index finger edge, same for both hands. Optionally you can use 1x keys in those positions if need be.
yeah I much prefer a white set of caps. how did you count 11 1.5 keys? its symmetrical so it should be an even number. I counted 12.
and where do you get vertical 1.5 keys? :blank:
it's gonna be hard to piece together a set with colors I like :mad: and i dont see many GBs around here that comes with ergodox set
as for switches I might just use a spare bag of browns I have, saves myself 45 bucks.
Thx Magus! Was your order from the batch in June or has there been another after that?Quite welcome. If this is drop five (which I believe it is), then it's my order from drop four that hasn't arrived, and my order for drop three that arrived the same week as the fourth drop started. If someone wants to try to afix dates to that, they're more than welcome, I honestly don't recall at this point.
Do you know if the MD has the through-hole diodes or the surface-mount diodes?
Also, he places the solder on a lot of the pads before putting the diodes in. This seems to be more efficient in creating a keyboard, but wouldn't the solder cool pretty fast?
the diodes are clearly throughhole. If it were me, Id rather die than put solder on the pads before inserting the components. A better way is to put all the diodes in, tape over them with masking tape so they dont fall out, flip the board over and solder them all at once. You will probably also want to build a jig out of perfboard so you can bend the legs super fast and easy. something like this (http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FBB/EOD5/HHS9VKUV/FBBEOD5HHS9VKUV.LARGE.jpg)
There wouldn't be enough 2x keys, true. I suppose a TKL set could be used, but you'd be using 1x keys where larger keys would be, kind of defeating some of the ergonomic aspect.You would also need twelve 1.5× keys.
the diodes are clearly throughhole.The description says that they are either throughole or surface-mounted ... and I think that previous kits have come with surface-mounted diodes.
DSA ... makes it easier to set up different keyboard layouts, like Dvorak or Colemak.
the surface mount diodes are really not that hard to do, its not like you are soldering on a smd controller or something like that. i had fears myself but it ended up pretty easy, just apply solder to one of the diodes pads on all switches, use tweezers and position on top of pre-applied solder and heat contact with iron, then solder the other contact normally. also check carefully before hand on the orientation of the diode, white bar needs to be facing square end.
I'm ordering custom keycaps, since I like non-standard layouts to have all the nice text for the escape-meta-alt-control-shift keys.There's an ergodox layout sheet that the excellent MOZ made
Aside from the numbers and letters, how many keys of which size and profile will I need?
If someone has the time to make a key-size reference out of this (https://massdropinc.s3.amazonaws.com/product-images/massdrop-product-ergodoxlayout.png), it'd be awesome and help future generations of ergodox buyers.
I looked around for this info in the thread, but it's become kind of huge. Sorry if I missed it.
I'm ordering custom keycaps, since I like non-standard layouts to have all the nice text for the escape-meta-alt-control-shift keys.There's an ergodox layout sheet that the excellent MOZ made
Aside from the numbers and letters, how many keys of which size and profile will I need?
If someone has the time to make a key-size reference out of this (https://massdropinc.s3.amazonaws.com/product-images/massdrop-product-ergodoxlayout.png), it'd be awesome and help future generations of ergodox buyers.
I looked around for this info in the thread, but it's become kind of huge. Sorry if I missed it.
http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=46456.0
What I would recommend is just get a bunch of blanks and relegendables. The ergodox has some options, so if you want to split the thumbkeys (For example), your keycap requirements will change.
I'm ordering custom keycaps, since I like non-standard layouts to have all the nice text for the escape-meta-alt-control-shift keys.There's an ergodox layout sheet that the excellent MOZ made
Aside from the numbers and letters, how many keys of which size and profile will I need?
If someone has the time to make a key-size reference out of this (https://massdropinc.s3.amazonaws.com/product-images/massdrop-product-ergodoxlayout.png), it'd be awesome and help future generations of ergodox buyers.
I looked around for this info in the thread, but it's become kind of huge. Sorry if I missed it.
http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=46456.0
What I would recommend is just get a bunch of blanks and relegendables. The ergodox has some options, so if you want to split the thumbkeys (For example), your keycap requirements will change.
That's magnificent and answers the size question perfectly, but I don't know which rows I'll need for the thumb keys. I don't want them to stick out awkwardly.
As for the labels, I'll probably be buying stupid custom caps with smileys or stars or what have you. It doesn't really matter what the label is, as long as it's different from the surrounding ones so it's easier to pronounce in my head ("smiley + zerg + D for revert" is easier than "left thumb 2, 3, and D").
Thanks for the help.
I actually am making an ergodox one'hand gamepad. I got it all soldered up and I can't for the life of me get the firmware to load. I'll be using blanks on it, most likely (either that or tai-ho, 'cause it's cheap)
Do you know if the MD has the through-hole diodes or the surface-mount diodes?
Also, he places the solder on a lot of the pads before putting the diodes in. This seems to be more efficient in creating a keyboard, but wouldn't the solder cool pretty fast?
the diodes are clearly throughhole. If it were me, Id rather die than put solder on the pads before inserting the components. A better way is to put all the diodes in, tape over them with masking tape so they dont fall out, flip the board over and solder them all at once. You will probably also want to build a jig out of perfboard so you can bend the legs super fast and easy. something like this (http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FBB/EOD5/HHS9VKUV/FBBEOD5HHS9VKUV.LARGE.jpg)
the through hole don't work with the case, you must use surfaceI have personally made two of these using through hole diodes and the massdrop case.
how is that possible, the plate layer is flush to the PCB. did you mount them upside down?Inside the switches.
I am curious but not quite excited enough to take the plunge. It would be far more enticing if it accepted Alps instead of Cherries.
Does the $200 include everything but switches and keys? PCBs, cases, hardware?
I am curious but not quite excited enough to take the plunge. It would be far more enticing if it accepted Alps instead of Cherries.
Does the $200 include everything but switches and keys? PCBs, cases, hardware?
The $200 includes everything but the solder and tools to assemble, so pcb, case, hardware, and switches.
The $200 includes everything but the solder and tools to assemble, so pcb, case, hardware, and switches.
Switches? Do you get a choice of colors?
Are stabilizers an issue?
The $200 includes everything but the solder and tools to assemble, so pcb, case, hardware, and switches.
Switches? Do you get a choice of colors?
Are stabilizers an issue?
Blue, Clear, Black, Red (+$10), Brown (+$20), Green (+$20), No Switches (-$44)
I think most people just don't use stabilizers on ergodox.
The $200 includes everything but the solder and tools to assemble, so pcb, case, hardware, and switches.
Switches? Do you get a choice of colors?
Are stabilizers an issue?
Blue, Clear, Black, Red (+$10), Brown (+$20), Green (+$20), No Switches (-$44)
I think most people just don't use stabilizers on ergodox.
I miss them though.
yeah I'm still waiting on the order I placed on 11/25 of last year.Yeah, but if yours takes as long as mine (and yes, I'm CONUS), you're still going to be waiting in April. :P
still, 2 months is pretty short in GH standards
There are no stabilizers included with the kit, but you should get some, it’s a nice improvement.
There are no stabilizers included with the kit, but you should get some, it’s a nice improvement.
I didn't see any difference, but it really can't hurt. It will depend greatly on your hand size/shape/flexibility.
Honestly, I don't know why MD doesn't just cut stab holes in the PCB: it's a really minor change. MK did it right.
Honestly, I don't know why MD doesn't just cut stab holes in the PCB: it's a really minor change. MK did it right.I'm not sure I follow. The MD plates have stabilizer holes, which the stabilizers fit into just fine. (Unfortunately though, the acrylic is much thicker than a typical metal plate, so it’s necessary to glue the stabilizer inserts into the plate [I used hot glue, which works fine] because there’s no close underside for the little plastic tabs to grip to.)