geekhack
geekhack Community => Input Devices => Topic started by: joneslee85 on Tue, 17 December 2013, 04:35:34
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(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-nSiBGcwOfdU/UABr56qW5WI/AAAAAAAACvs/pwHe_DtjjPg/s300/onepice.gif)
Cherry MX is now taking over the world of arcade joystick. The guy who are behind the HBFS-30 are amazing, they combine the MX within a joystick housing to create one of the very first Cherry MX switches for the Arcade Joystick. You can see more info here:
http://www.indiegogo.com/projects/hbfs-30-the-all-new-arcade-button-with-cherry-mx-keyswitch (http://www.indiegogo.com/projects/hbfs-30-the-all-new-arcade-button-with-cherry-mx-keyswitch)
http://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=42394 (http://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=42394)
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I thought low travel was good for fighting games..
since the original sanwa had 1mm or something vs 2mm on the cherry.
because if u play SF4.. u have 1 frame stuff... and 1 mm might make a difference here.
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I think it is more personal preference, some prefer more travel distance and tactile feedback than others. Again I am not that pro to tell the differences, my brother is playing SF3 pretty much 24/7 so I am going to buy this for him this XMAS
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Pretty sure these have been posted about quite a few times. I know there were a few threads discussing using these to do some other things with also but my search fu is weak today.
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These had been posted about before. Coming from playing Fighting games and have 4 arcade sticks, 2 custom made, 1 modded and 1 stock I personally would not use them in any if my sticks. The Sanwa and other brand buttons are purely built for this 1 purpose and been around for a long time in arcade cabs. They may well be ok but the actuation point may be a nightmare in competitive play.
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These had been posted about before. Coming from playing Fighting games and have 4 arcade sticks, 2 custom made, 1 modded and 1 stock I personally would not use them in any if my sticks. The Sanwa and other brand buttons are purely built for this 1 purpose and been around for a long time in arcade cabs. They may well be ok but the actuation point may be a nightmare in competitive play.
It's a matter of what you've trained with. It ends up being an issue of familiarity and reliability.
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These had been posted about before. Coming from playing Fighting games and have 4 arcade sticks, 2 custom made, 1 modded and 1 stock I personally would not use them in any if my sticks. The Sanwa and other brand buttons are purely built for this 1 purpose and been around for a long time in arcade cabs. They may well be ok but the actuation point may be a nightmare in competitive play.
It's a matter of what you've trained with. It ends up being an issue of familiarity and reliability.
i'm not so sure...
Let's say you have a RANGE of reaction time, since you can't exhaustively train for ALL situations in most modern figthers, since there are too many variations, there will be times where you catch that 1 frame link with the shorter throw 1mm where as with 2mm you would've missed it...
so in general.... shorter will always be better...
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Binge's point still stands, if a player has used a certain control method for such a time and worked up to a level of play, they won't switch for a 1mm benefit for a 1 in a million chance. There's a pro running around using a 360 controller or something.
But, I would think these are totally implausible considering the force at which players hit the buttons, you will always bottom out and have at least 4mm of travel before you could even again actuate a press, though most probably 6mm. Does that cushion pad cause the switch to bottom out at the actuation point?
Anyway, I thought most standard links have a 12 frame window, and your lowest chance links, parries or blocks are 4 to 6 frames?
A 1 frame window would be considered impossible.
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Binge's point still stands, if a player has used a certain control method for such a time and worked up to a level of play, they won't switch for a 1mm benefit for a 1 in a million chance. There's a pro running around using a 360 controller or something.
But, I would think these are totally implausible considering the force at which players hit the buttons, you will always bottom out and have at least 4mm of travel before you could even again actuate a press, though most probably 6mm. Does that cushion pad cause the switch to bottom out at the actuation point?
Anyway, I thought most standard links have a 12 frame window, and your lowest chance links, parries or blocks are 4 to 6 frames?
A 1 frame window would be considered impossible.
ur right usually more...
but the shorter the travel, the greater your odds of catching it from the instance you notice..
Now we're not discussing whether you're going to Train on / stick with a certain switch..
We're discussing the merit of each switch individually..
And I do believe lower travel should be prioritized.
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Binge's point still stands, if a player has used a certain control method for such a time and worked up to a level of play, they won't switch for a 1mm benefit for a 1 in a million chance. There's a pro running around using a 360 controller or something.
But, I would think these are totally implausible considering the force at which players hit the buttons, you will always bottom out and have at least 4mm of travel before you could even again actuate a press, though most probably 6mm. Does that cushion pad cause the switch to bottom out at the actuation point?
Anyway, I thought most standard links have a 12 frame window, and your lowest chance links, parries or blocks are 4 to 6 frames?
A 1 frame window would be considered impossible.
ur right usually more...
but the shorter the travel, the greater your odds of catching it from the instance you notice..
Now we're not discussing whether you're going to Train on / stick with a certain switch..
We're discussing the merit of each switch individually..
And I do believe lower travel should be prioritized.
I do too, they're quoting a 2.5mm total travel, they must be putting a stopper in.
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Binge's point still stands, if a player has used a certain control method for such a time and worked up to a level of play, they won't switch for a 1mm benefit for a 1 in a million chance. There's a pro running around using a 360 controller or something.
But, I would think these are totally implausible considering the force at which players hit the buttons, you will always bottom out and have at least 4mm of travel before you could even again actuate a press, though most probably 6mm. Does that cushion pad cause the switch to bottom out at the actuation point?
Anyway, I thought most standard links have a 12 frame window, and your lowest chance links, parries or blocks are 4 to 6 frames?
A 1 frame window would be considered impossible.
ur right usually more...
but the shorter the travel, the greater your odds of catching it from the instance you notice..
Now we're not discussing whether you're going to Train on / stick with a certain switch..
We're discussing the merit of each switch individually..
And I do believe lower travel should be prioritized.
I do too, they're quoting a 2.5mm total travel, they must be putting a stopper in.
i meant' travel to acutation.. so i meant actuation point..
sanwa will actuation around 1mm.. cherry @ 2mm
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A 1 frame window would be considered impossible.
wrong
Abel's f. MK, st. HP
- His cr. LK, st. HP
- st. close HK, cr. LK
Ibuki's cr. LP, st. MK
- Her LK Tsumuji, st. LP
- cr. LP, cr. MP
- st. MP, st. MK
- Max range slide, st. LP
Ken's st. LP, U2
Sakura's EX Shouoken FADC cr. HP
Seth's st. close HK, st. MP
Sako's Chun loop
Gief's st. LK
Rufus' st. LK, st. HP
Rose's CH max range slide, cr. MP