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geekhack Community => Keyboards => Topic started by: Neo.X on Tue, 24 December 2013, 20:31:49
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I have couple Korean Customized keyboards, they all feel great. I was always thinking it's because the lubing, tuning, special spring, plate, etc..
Yesterday, I put a vortex alu case on my stock QFR Red, and wow, it instantly feels much better. The main change I notice is that key stroking now feel more solid and the sound is more appealing too.
Although the quality of vortex is not that good, mainly because the bad painting job, it does make the typing feels better. ;)
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It makes the board feel more 'solid'
But its not worth the investment unless you like the bling
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Yes.
The heavier the better.
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There won't be too many issues with cleaning aluminum boards as well unlike ABS keyboard case for instance. ;D It also has that nice bit of gloss to it.
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I have couple Korean Customized keyboards, they all feel great. I was always thinking it's because the lubing, tuning, special spring, plate, etc..
Yesterday, I put a vortex alu case on my stock QFR Red, and wow, it instantly feels much better. The main change I notice is that key stroking now feel more solid and the sound is more appealing too.
Although the quality of vortex is not that good, mainly because the bad painting job, it does make the typing feels better. ;)
Would low profile alu cases vs high profile alu cases change the feel?
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I hated my stock poker (because it felt loose due to the plastic case and no plate) but loved it once I added a plate to it. It make the keyboard feel amazingly solid. I didn't have a plate on hand for my GH60 Rev A in the ANSI150 layout like I wanted to have (I was also going to try ISO while I was at it) but I still mounted in my aluminum hammer case. I love it! I might not even add a plate to it because it already feel like a rock.
IMO, an aluminum case is worth it
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What about stainless?
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What about stainless?
Stainless case or plate?
I've looked into a stainless case a bit, it was really really expensive for a single case to be made. Even with a GB, it would still be quite pricey
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What about stainless?
Stainless case or plate?
I've looked into a stainless case a bit, it was really really expensive for a single case to be made. Even with a GB, it would still be quite pricey
Stainless case. 4 sides bolted together, top cover sets in a ledge at the top of the 4 sides and plate bolts to the bottom of the top cover. This is my plans for my custom keyboard. Top cover is going to be made from 1/4" 304 stainless and the sides are going to be made from 1/2" 304 stainless. I already have the steel. Just need to finalize dimensions and get the pieces cut.
Edit: But no not milled from a solid block
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What about stainless?
Stainless case or plate?
I've looked into a stainless case a bit, it was really really expensive for a single case to be made. Even with a GB, it would still be quite pricey
Stainless case. 4 sides bolted together, top cover sets in a ledge at the top of the 4 sides and plate bolts to the bottom of the top cover. This is my plans for my custom keyboard. Top cover is going to be made from 1/4" 304 stainless and the sides are going to be made from 1/2" 304 stainless. I already have the steel. Just need to finalize dimensions and get the pieces cut.
Edit: But no not milled from a solid block
I've never had a layered case, but I really doubt I'd like one (even out of stainless which is my favorite metal [for common metals that it])
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so the QFR fits the vortex case? I thought it was designed for the Filco. Did you have to do anything to it to get it to fit right?
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I wouldn't consider it a layered case. The case itself will consist of a right and left side, a front and a back piece with the top cover sitting in a ledge so the top of the top cover sits flush with the top of the 4 sides. The plate then bolts right up to the bottom of the top cover. To attach the top cover to the sides I and still debating details but there will be 4 small screws coming in from the side to either pinch the top cover or thread into it.
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I really want to get a black ALU case for my filco, but it seems they aren't available anywhere. I was wondering aboutbthe possibility of getting the silver one from mechanicalkeyboards.com and sending it to an anodizing service to anodize it black. Has anyone tried anything like this? Like is it possible to anodize on top of anodization? Then again, it might get expensive...
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I really want to get a black ALU case for my filco, but it seems they aren't available anywhere. I was wondering aboutbthe possibility of getting the silver one from mechanicalkeyboards.com and sending it to an anodizing service to anodize it black. Has anyone tried anything like this? Like is it possible to anodize on top of anodization? Then again, it might get expensive...
It will have to have the first anodized coating stripped first as the process involves a chemical conversion process with the aluminum itself. So if you can get one that is unfinished in anyway that might be a touch cheaper but not enough to warrant holding out for one. Keep in mind that custom colors get almost prohibitively expensive and anodizing a single piece is still a bit spendy. If I were doing a single piece I would go for powder coating over anodizing myself. This is for a couple of reasons.
1. Powder coating by nature is MUCH less harmful to the environment.
2. Many more colors available.
3. More shops can do it so competition brings cost down a bit.
4. Provides an actual physical barrier between the base material and the outside world preventing scratches from getting to the metal itself.
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It's like night and day. A nice solid case makes a world of difference. I wish it was possible for the hhkb to have an alu case.
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what you think about acrylic plate handwired v PCB mounted? :)
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It's like night and day. A nice solid case makes a world of difference. I wish it was possible for the hhkb to have an alu case.
http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=30759.0
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Having owned a bunch of standard plastic keyboards (even heavily modified + dampened) and aluminum/steel + aluminum/acrylic keyboard now, the difference is indeed dramatic. It's not the bling factor--it's the high degree of dampening that is so great about those heavy metal cases. The feel and sound of typing is a lot more pleasant to me in heavy and dampened cases--to the point where I sold all of my older keyboards, because typing on them was no longer as much fun and to invest into heavier cases instead.
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I'd guess that's relating to the rigidity of the case?
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Interesting. I would love to have a Platinum or Stainless steel case for my Aircraft Carrier.
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I'd guess that's relating to the rigidity of the case?
Density + material properties + amount is my guess. A full rubber case would not be very rigid but would provide great dampening :)
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I'd guess that's relating to the rigidity of the case?
Density + material properties + amount is my guess. A full rubber case would not be very rigid but would provide great dampening :)
a metal case will rubber lining inside would be even better :D typing on concrete
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Having owned a bunch of standard plastic keyboards (even heavily modified + dampened) and aluminum/steel + aluminum/acrylic keyboard now, the difference is indeed dramatic. It's not the bling factor--it's the high degree of dampening that is so great about those heavy metal cases. The feel and sound of typing is a lot more pleasant to me in heavy and dampened cases--to the point where I sold all of my older keyboards, because typing on them was no longer as much fun and to invest into heavier cases instead.
would low profile make a difference in the feel vs high profile cases?
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I'd guess that's relating to the rigidity of the case?
Density + material properties + amount is my guess. A full rubber case would not be very rigid but would provide great dampening :)
You can get hard rubbers that would be more than rigid enough.
This is a good idea, actually. I'll have to think on it. They used hard rubbers (often chased) on old fountainpens.
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I'd guess that's relating to the rigidity of the case?
Density + material properties + amount is my guess. A full rubber case would not be very rigid but would provide great dampening :)
You can get hard rubbers that would be more than rigid enough.
This is a good idea, actually. I'll have to think on it. They used hard rubbers (often chased) on old fountainpens.
Bring on the bakelite (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bakelite). I know its not a rubber but I still want a case for the wifes filco made of bakelite.
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Do you know this polyurethane spray that becomes hard foam once sprayed ?
[attach=1]
Although it won't make keyboard heavier, it can make the shell much tougher, no more plastic flexion sounds, reduce noises and also is a very good humidity protection for electronic parts or against dust. The only disavantages, once applied, it may become hard to disassemble your keyboard. Mains danger : never spray that in a closed shell, when the foam expands, it can break the shell...
I may try this one day on a crap keyboard to test and will give feedback. These sprays are quite cheap.
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Would low profile alu cases vs high profile alu cases change the feel?
If the thickness of the bottom of the case is big enough, the profile will probably not make a big difference. The total stiffness of the keyboard is imho mainly a result of the stiff bottom. The Tex 60% cases e.g. are low profile but show no flex whatsoever. My Ducky Mini feels like a tank now. But maybe I'm just not strong enough to flex it. ;)
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Do you know this polyurethane spray that becomes hard foam once sprayed ?
(Attachment Link)
Although it won't make keyboard heavier, it can make the shell much tougher, no more plastic flexion sounds, reduce noises and also is a very good humidity protection for electronic parts or against dust. The only disavantages, once applied, it may become hard to disassemble your keyboard. Mains danger : never spray that in a closed shell, when the foam expands, it can break the shell...
I may try this one day on a crap keyboard to test and will give feedback. These sprays are quite cheap.
A layer of stretched saran wrap might be of use here between the case halves. At least something that will keep the two halves separate.
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Do you know this polyurethane spray that becomes hard foam once sprayed ?
(Attachment Link)
Although it won't make keyboard heavier, it can make the shell much tougher, no more plastic flexion sounds, reduce noises and also is a very good humidity protection for electronic parts or against dust. The only disavantages, once applied, it may become hard to disassemble your keyboard. Mains danger : never spray that in a closed shell, when the foam expands, it can break the shell...
I may try this one day on a crap keyboard to test and will give feedback. These sprays are quite cheap.
A layer of stretched saran wrap might be of use here between the case halves. At least something that will keep the two halves separate.
the goal of using foam is to have no empty space left in shells, and this foam is very easy to cut or file once dry, then you have no more "drum" sounds and the shell gets much more rigid. I know this as we used such foams for shaping funboards when I was teenager^^
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and if you want something heavy, fill any empty space of your shell with epoxy resin, but make tests on small parts as IDK how plastic shells may not be damages by epoxy. Epoxy used for surfs or windsurf boards if not expensive if you buy qty. This is heavy and damn strong^^ but once hardened, you can't remove :p
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aluminum/steel + aluminum/acrylic keyboard
Does alum+acrylic feel about the same as full alum?
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aluminum/steel + aluminum/acrylic keyboard
Does alum+acrylic feel about the same as full alum?
The one that I tried with acrylic layered with an aluminum plate (though by design was not screwed together) didn't feel nearly as solid as my third gen das keyboard.
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I've tried a board in an alu case. Personally, the case could be made of diamond. If the plate isn't metal, it's a no-go.
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I've tried a board in an alu case. Personally, the case could be made of diamond. If the plate isn't metal, it's a no-go.
I have a PCB mounted board in an aluminium case and the case makes a BIG difference to the feel. It's really heavy and solid. Loving it. I do admit that I added some drawer liner under the PCB and trampoline and latex modded the switches and added stickers, which also really helps. And I put thicker keycaps on.
I have ordered an aluminium plate for it, too.... This hobby... sigh.